Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed (163)

An extraordinary modernist fringe necklace in 18K yellow gold and green tourmaline by the famed Brazilian modernist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre ("free form") gemstones in 1948, and the technique became his signature. Most often, he used colorful stones native to Brazil—tourmalines, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, etc. The tourmalines in this necklace are of the finest quality, with pure deep green coloring that contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting. Burle Marx never used pre-cast elements in his jewelry, and each piece was completely raised by hand from a gold ingot. All the plain gold links are accented with a brushed texture, and the links set with tourmalines have a contrasting florentined finish. The back of the clasp is stamped with Burle Marx's signature and 18K marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.

NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A very fine and heavy vintage 14K yellow gold necklace by Tiffany & Co. The timeless braided design is enhanced by the gradual tapering of width from the center toward the clasp. The flat braided construction allows the necklace to life flat against the throat. This design has been reinvented several times over the years, and this piece likely dates from the 1960s. It is not currently available, but chains of similar weight are available from Tiffany in the $5,000 range. The clasp is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 16-1/4” long; 3/8” wide at center. Weight: 31.2 gr.

A fine pair of modernist 18K yellow gold earclips by Burle Marx set with intricately carved amethysts in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stones. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The backs of the earrings are signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”. The earrings have clip mechanisms, but posts could easily be added without disturbing the integrity of the earrings.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring (Item #1233380).

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold ring and pearl ring by Tiffany & Co. The split shank is enhanced with a chain-link motif at the crown and is set with a single 7.5 mm Akoya cultured pearl. The pearl is of very fine quality with white body color and silver overtones—the shading most favored by Tiffany. The luster is is very good and the surface is excellent condition. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 4.8 gr.

A striking pair of 18K yellow gold earrings accented with hardstone inlay by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. Each slightly domed oval earring is set with polka-dots of carnelian, mother-of-pearl and onyx. Cummings pioneered the use of the mosaic technique in modern jewelry during her early years at Tiffany. These earrings were created in the early 1970s, before Tiffany began allowing Cummings to sign her designs with her own name. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1972. Size: 13/16” x 15/16”. Weight: 17.2 gr.

A very nice 18K yellow gold Sputnik style ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite lanched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance that depends on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This example tends toward the pastel side with a fairly large number of aquamarines and lighter-toned amethysts. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, one amethyst has a small chip on the surface only visible upon careful examination with a 10x loupe. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome diameter, 19 mm (3/4 in). Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.90 cts.

A classic 18K yellow gold link bracelet in the "Atlas" pattern by Tiffany & Co. The design is based on the Roman numerals from the clock over the doorway of Tiffany's NY flagship store. The clasp is signed by Tiffany and is dated 2003. This bracelet is currently available only in white gold and is priced at $3,700.

Origin: Italy, 2003. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/16" wide; 7-1/8 long. Weight: 28.7 gr.

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is Picasso’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable designs. The pin was available in several sizes. The design first appeared in 1983 and was available for many years. Earlier examples, such as this pin, are heavier than later pieces. The back is signed “Paloma Picasso” and is marked “1983 Tiffany & Co. 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/8 x 1-5/16”. Weight: 10.2 grams.

An outstanding pair of vintage earrings in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. The oval shape is formed of reeded bars interspersed with prong-set round brilliant cut diamonds, creating a basketweave texture. The diamonds are graded as F color, VS1 clarity, and excellent cut. Each earring is marked “1992 Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 21.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.25 cts.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring as Item #831151.

An 18K yellow gold buckle ring enhanced with enamel in Gucci's trademark Kelly green. The simplicity of the design is classic Gucci. The interior of the shank is signed "Gucci 18" Italy".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Dimensions: shank, 3/16" wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 3.4 grams.

A very nice 14K yellow gold 5mm cable twist bracelet with domed ends set with pearls and rubies from the “Cable Classics” collection by David Yurman. The 4.8mm pearls are beautifully accented with rows of channel-set round rubies. This design is one of the earlier pieces from the “Cable Classics” collection, and is no longer in production. The original retail price was $2,450. The open cuff is flexible and can be spread to fit nearly any wrist. The interior of the bangle is signed “D. Yurman 14K”.

Origin: America. Size: 5mm diameter. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .51 ct.

A stunning vintage 18K yellow gold ring featuring an outstanding 1.60-carat Burmese ruby surrounded with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. Tiffany has not sold rubies since 1999 due to the U.S. embargo of Myanmar, and the design of this ring suggests it was made in the 1950s or 60s. The inside of the shank is marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “18K”.The ring is presented in its original dark blue velvet, satin-lined ring box marked “Tiffany & Co.”.

The ruby is fashioned in an oval mixed cut, measuring approximately 8.75 x 6.85 x 3.60 mm. The ring is accompanied by GIA origin report indicating that the ruby is of Burmese origin and shows no indications of heat treatment. The stone is a strongly saturated, medium-dark purplish-red color (pR 6/5). The cut displays good brilliance and proportions and a fair surface finish. The pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at F color, VVS1 clarity.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: light thinning at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Size: 9/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 3.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.60 carats; diamond, 1.33 carats.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, aquamarine, amethyst, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and how they are arranged relative to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Russian satellite. The earrings have omega clips without posts (posts could easily be added). The earrings were purchased in 1996 at the H. Stern boutique on Fifth Avenue, New York. They retain their original presentation and gift boxes. The earrings are tested and guaranteed 18K gold; the findings are 14K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1996. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A stunning Tiffany & Co. ring by Jean Schlumberger, one of the great jewelry designers of the 20th century. He was Tiffany’s lead designer in the 1960s and was charged with creating nearly all of the company’s most exclusive pieces. His designs typically relied on naturalistic motifs. Here, two leaves are worked in platinum and studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stems of the leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and meld into the double shank that continues the organic motif. The diamonds are of very fine quality, VS clarity, G color. Schlumberger created several pieces using this motif, including the “Three Leaves Earrings” (currently available from Tiffany at $13,500), the “Five Leaves Brooch” ($16,500), the “Three Leaves Sapphire Earclips” ($62,000). The “Two Leaves Ring” currently retails for $4,400.

Origin: America. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Size: 5/8” wide. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .51 carat.

A very fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet in the “Signature” or “Signature X” pattern by Tiffany & Co. This is a classic design that hasn’t been in production for quite some time. Each link is fully articulated so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is marked “T & Co. 750”. Comparable bracelets at Tiffany currently retail in the $8,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/8” long; 5/16” wide. Weight: 29.1 grams.