Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1025)

A classic Art Deco 18K white gold Russian braid chain necklace with opal cabochons and faceted onyx beads sandwiched together into egg-shaped stations along the length. The opals have nice play-of-color with a preponderance of blues and greens. Most station chain necklaces are quite long, but the shorter length of this example makes for a very wearable, delicate look. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925
• Condition: very good, two opals have small flakes on the pointed end visible upon very close inspection
• Dimensions: chain length, 17-1/4”; stations, 3/16” diameter
• Weight: 2.8 grams

A very fine Art Deco 14K yellow gold necklace of filigree links centering a collet-set carved jadeite disc suspending another filigree link and a large oval plaque of jadeite carved in a floral pattern. The workmanship of the filigree is superior, with finely detailed millegraining on nearly all the surfaces. The use of yellow gold in filigree jewelry of the period is quite unusual, but is very attractive as a foil to the rich green of the gemstones. The jade plaques nicely carved in a traditional floral pattern. The stones are semi-translucent, medium-textured, and moderately mottled from very saturated green to a light slightly grayish-green. There are no signs of dye. The necklace has an interesting invisible clasp mechanism that is marked "Pat. Appl'd For". Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 16" long; pendant jade drops 2-7/16" from the bottom of the jade disc. Weight: 23.1 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The word “plus” is represented by a plus sign set with a diamond and the word “moins” with a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and laurel wreath border. The back is monogrammed “MG.” The front is signed A.A. and the bail is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau gold watch pin in the form of a maiden appearing within the ruffled form of a pansy blossom. Tendrils of her hair cascade out toward the edges eventually disappearing into the veining of the flower’s petals. The back retains the original clasp and a hook to hang a watch. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. The hook could then be used to suspend a pearl or other gemstone drop. The clasp is indistinctly stamped with a mark for the karat content, and it is tested and guaranteed as 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”
• Weight: 4.4 grams

A lovely 14K gold pendant designed as a young woman's face captured in a crescent moon. She wears a large brimmed bucket hat with trailing ribbons in the style of the early 20s. In Victorian jewelry symbology, the crescent moon was a reminder of the moon goddess Selene (AKA Luna) and was often used to signal female empowerment. The reverse is marked "14K."

• America, ca. 1920
• Excellent condition; converted from an antique stickpin
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" excluding bail
• 2.7 grams

The wonderful gold medal won by James Ephraim Narraway at the 1929 tournament of the Correspondence Chess League of America (CCLA). The medal features a black and white enameled chessboard surrounded by a laurel wreath and surmounted by a crown. The back is engraved “C.C.L.A. 1929 Leaderhip ‘A’ 1st Prize Won By J. E Narraway.” The medal was likely originally attached to a neck ribbon, but would be really nice worn today as a pendant or on a chunky charm bracelet. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.
Narraway was a three-time Canadian champion and a North American champion. In correspondence chess, each player mailed his next move to his opponent via mail. The first known game of correspondence chess was played between the Byzantine Emperor Nikephoros I and the Calip of Baghdad, Harun al-Rashi in the late 9th century. Even with the advent of postal service, a game organized by Narraway in 1891 lasted for more than three years. Though he lived to age 90, the 1929 game in 1929 was to be Narraway’s last gold medal win, at the age of 72.

• Origin: America, 1929

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage

Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)

Weight: 16.4 grams.

Elegant pair of screwback earrings, each featuring three outstanding 6-mm pearls clusted around small white zircons. The pearls are of exceptional quality--quite similar to Mikimoto. The body color is a bright white with silvery overtones. The skins are smooth and the lustre is very nice. The white zircons have the appearance of diamonds and were often used as diamond substitutes in the first half of the 20th century. The backs are marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 6.5 grams.

A very pretty 14K gold and pink sapphire solitaire ring. The oval brilliant-cut sapphire has a nice raspberry pink color that shows well in the high cathedral-style setting. The sapphire has very good clarity and does not show indications of any heat or other treatment. The shank is enhanced with white gold floral elements on either side of the sapphire. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”. The ring would be perfect as a colored stone engagement ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .61 ct.

A lovely two-sided 18K gold and crystal photo locket by Parisian jeweler Charles Garnier. This style of locket became popular in the latter half of the 19th century and was revived from time to time up through the Edwardian era. NOTE: The pale green interior is used only for photographic purposes. The lockets were worn with a photograph showing from each side or with a single photograph on the front and a memento of some sort (a lock of hair or a pressed flower) on the back. The crystals are held in place with a gold border decorated in the bound-reed motif in the Louis XVI style. The bail is stamped with the maker’s mark for Garnier.

Origin: France, 1924-28. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medille d'amour") with a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow") a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is of better than average quality, with intricate engraving on the background and a lovely engraved floral border. The oval shape is also less common the the usual circle. The use of rose cut diamonds, synthetic rubies and Augis' signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The smaller size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or for wear on a charm bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis' maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 7/8" (from top of bail).

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

A fine large-size enameled 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau flower pin the form of a pansy. The petals are beautifully decorated with purple, violet cream and yellow opaque enamels. The enamel has a soft luster that mimics the velvety texture of an actual pansy. The flower is centered with a 15-point round brilliant diamond of exceptionally good quality (E color, VVS2 clarity). The specific shape and arrangement of the petals identifies this pin as being made by Larter, but the company also supplied these pins to luxury retailers such as Tiffany and Cartier where they were marked with the retailer’s mark. This pin has an unidentified mark (the Greek letter omega) and has faintly inscribed inventory numbers often found on pieces that were sold by luxury jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, one 1/8” enamel flake on one of the upper white rims (nearly invisible since the flake is only to the surface of the enamel and no gold shows through). Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.

A lovely vintage 14K gold heart pin set all the way around with old European cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in a white gold shared-prong setting that creates a lovely gallery effect along the outer edge of the pin. The diamonds are nice quality, graded as H/I color and VS1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 1". Weight: 6.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.20 cts.

An elegant Edwardian 14K gold chain comprising bar links engraved in a delicate foliage pattern. The chain is completed with a hidden box clasp. This chain could be worn alone or suspending a single pendant or locket. It would also look fantastic suspending charms between the bar links. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 16 1/2" long
• Condition: excellent
• Weight: 10.8 grams

A buff-cut oval amethyst perfectly offsets the superb gold setting in this Edwardian 14K gold gentleman’s ring. The stone sits in a high setting that is intricately engraved with classic motifs such as pendant bellflowers, swags, and fans that bridge the Edwardian period into early Art Deco. The ring is large, but the relatively light color of the amethyst and the use of smooth buff cut instead of full faceting keeps it from being overpowering. A woman could easily wear the ring, as well. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: shank tapering from 5/32” at the back to 1/2" wide at the front; 1/4” height from finger
• Finger Size: 9-1/2
• Weight: 8.29 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 4.11 carats

A pin featuring three horses, each sporting a red enamel bridle by the New York maker Sloan & Company. The horses are finely detailed. The clasp is stamped with Sloan's 14K mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920.
• DIMENSIONS 1 3/4" x 9/16".
• WEIGHT 5.4 grams.
• CONDITION excellent; no enamel damage; sharp detail.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold bracelet by Tiffany & Co. featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals. The center crystal depicts a horse and rider jumping a fence and is flanked by a matching pair of crystals depicting hounds. The crystals are separated by links in the shape of horseshoes overlaid with bits. Sporting bracelets set with Essex crystals are uncommon and examples by major makers such as Tiffany are nearly impossible to find. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co./14K/Pat. Sept. 1924".

• Origin: America, 1924.
• Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
• Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
• Weight: 18.3 grams.

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A pretty pair of Art Deco 12K yellow gold, coral and pearl tassel earrings. Lengths of gold chain studded with small pearls and coral beads hang freely from the pearl surmounts. The coral has attractive, uniform color and the semi-baroque pearls have especially bright luster. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn and would have paired nicely with the long chains and fringed gowns fashionable in the 1920s. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold (clutches are 14K).

Origin: England, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, except one pearl that has a flake to the nacre visible upon close inspection. Dimensions: 1-3/8" long. Weight: 3.9 grams.

Very nicely detailed 14K yellow gold Victorian stickpin in the form of a maple leaf set with 5 seed pearls. The back is marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" long.

A very heavy late Victorian 14K rose gold watch chain completed with a matching t-bar. The curb link chain is completed with a t-bar, a dog clip, and a 1-1/2” length of chain to suspend a fob. The chain is stamped repeatedly with the Imperial Russian mark for 56 zolotnik gold (a tad purer than 14K) used 1898-1908.

• Origin: Russia, 1898-1908
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 12-3/8” long (dog clip to t-bar); 1-1/2” long (suspension bail to fob bail)
• Weight: 50.2 grams

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A lovely, medium-size Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold pin in the form of a violet. Each of the petals is beautifully decorated in shaded translucent enamels in tones of violet and yellowish-cream. The translucency and high gloss of the enamel create a tremendous sense of depth in the design. The edges of the petals are set with rows of tiny seed pearls and the flower is centered with an old European cut diamond, graded as I/J, SI2. The reverse retains its original clap and pinstem and is marked for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

A lovely maiden surrounded by a bower of daisies is featured in this Art Nouveau 10K gold pendant/watch pin. In Victorian flower language, the daisy represented "innocence." The design is nicely detailed. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: sharp detail; pinstem, clasp and watch hook are original; hidden bail was added by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A stunning pair of late Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral earrings, the petals enhanced with iridescent enamel and the centers set with clusters of blue sapphires. The quality of the enamel, shading from a medium blue to a pale greenish-yellow is superb. The gold surfaces underneath the enamel are delicately engraved to represent the veining and surface textures of real flower petals. The use of iridescent enamels and the quality of workmanship suggests one of the better Newark workshops as the likely maker. The round sapphires have vivid blue coloring and are set nicely above the surrounding petals to create a very three-dimensional appearance. The earrings probably originally had wire, but now have omega-clips. The could easily be returned to wire, or have posts added. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; omega clips replacing original wires. Size: 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 13.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .84 carat.

An elegant 18K gold and platinum marquise ring set with a central row of oval sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have nicely saturated coloring, and the diamonds have good brilliance. The design is finished with a pierced gallery along the edges. Marquise rings were very fashionable in the Edwardian period and have a very elegant appearance on the hand. Today, they are among the most desirable shapes for engagement rings. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Crown Dimensions: 15/16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .70 carat; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

A lovely conversion ring featuring a a guilloche enamel plaque centered with a blue sapphire cabochon. The pale blue translucent enamel is accented with engine-turned engraving and is surrounded by a border of opaque white enamel with gold accents. The ring was created from an Edwardian stickpin with the addition of a 14K gold shank (the front is 18K).

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .13 ct
• Weight: 2.3 grams

Very nice Victorian 14 karat yellow gold stickpin in the shape of a horseshoe, set with nine seed pearls. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" long.

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A beautiful, delicate Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet in 14K yellow and white gold, set with blue sapphires and pearls. The traditional double knife-edge frame is decorated on the front side with a foliate-design plaque worked in white gold. The plaque is set with an alternating row of blue sapphires and 2.95mm pearls. The sapphires are a lovely bright cornflower blue with a hint of violet (graded as vB5/4) and show no indications of heat or other treatment. They are typical of stones from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). The pearls, though small, are fine quality with ivory body color and rose overtones. The overall effect is very elegant. The clasp is stamped with a variation of the hallmark used by A. J. Hedges & Co., a leading American jeweler of the period.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/16” wide; 6-7/8” interior circumference. Weight: 11.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .73 ct.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

A delicate Art Nouveau 10K gold pin featuring a pansy decorated with translucent violet, pink and cream enameled. The flower center and a bud are set with small seed pearls. The brooch retains its original pinstem and clasp stamped "10K." In Victorian flower language, the pansy conveyed the meaning "Think of me." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for new brides.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good; a small enamel flake to the tip of one petal (superficial only and does not affect the color)
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/8"
• Weight 2.5 grams.