Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1025)

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A very cute and heavy 14K yellow gold dachshund pin, the gold body accented with small emerald eyes and a white gold collar studded with small diamonds. The pin is very finely modeled with clear definitions of musculature and the Florentine engraving nicely mimics the short hairs of a dachshund’s coat. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 12.7 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

An elegant vintage Tiffany & Co. diamond ring from the "Vannerie" collection. The domed band is worked in a woven motif bisected with a slash of round brilliant cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded G/VVS2. The interior of the shank is marked "Tiffany & Co. 750 1989."

• Origin: America, 1989
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at front tapering to 1/4" at back
• Finger Size: 8-1/4
• Weight: 13.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat.
• Condition: excellent; typical surface wear at the back of the shank

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, in a streamlined modern style with a hidden bail, is in one of the rarest versions. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ signature and maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent; the marks on the bottom edge of the pendant in the first and second photos are lighting reflections only.
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 3/4”.
• Weight: 4.4 gr.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

A very attractive pair of vintage 18K yellow gold star earrings by Tiffany & Co. The stars are slightly pulled out of shape, so the design has a sense of movement, and the legs are slightly faceted for a little extra shine. The earrings have Omega backs and the original posts, which could be removed for wear as clips. Each earring is signed "Tiffany & Co.", is marked "750" for 18K gold, and is dated 1983.

Origin: America, 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16" x 7/8". Weight: 11.3 gr.

A lovely brooch in 14K yellow gold set with 19 Mikimoto-quality cultured pearls. The 4mm pearls have cream body color with rosy overtones. The luster is excellent. The back is marked “K14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-15/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

A wonderful and very rare vintage 14K gold charm depicting a golf course under a glass cover. The clubhouse is at the top and the 18th hole is at the bottom. In between, there’s a sand trap and water hazard. There’s also a small ball bearing and just like the old-fashioned kids’ game, the idea is to gently manipulate the charm to get the ball to drop into the 18th hole cup while avoiding the sand trap and water hazard. The details are highlighted with colored enamels. But most charming of all is the engraved inscription on the reverse: “April 15, 1950 to April 15, 1975 25 years of playing a ‘round’ with you. Love Joe” The rim is marked with Dankner’s hallmark.

• Origin: America, 1975
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss or dings
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter (excluding bail).
• Weight: 18.4 grams

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the second largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. The pendant is presented with its original Tiffany 18" 18K gold chain. This piece currently retails for $2200.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1" x 1-1/16"; necklace length, 18".
• Weight: 10.1 grams.

This 23-1/2" 18K yellow gold box chain is heavy enough for a large pendant or locket. Box chains are especially attractive with more contemporary designs, and unlike some other chain styles, they don't crimp or become easily tangled. In addition to the primary clasp, the chain also has a safety chain. Marked with French 18K gold hallmarks and master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France.
• Condition: excellent; one spring ring has been replaced with a gold filled spring ring.
• Dimensions: length: 23-1/2"; width 1.5mm.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly opals in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The moonstones have bluish overtones with broad flashes of pinkish-orange. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” x 5/8”
• Weight: 15.8 grams

An 18K tri-color gold ring in the inconic "Double C" motif by Cartier, with a stack of yellow, white and rose gold bands terminating in yellow gold C's at the opening. The interior is marked with Cartier's signature, the serial number "F95043", and the design date "1997".

Origin: France, ca. 1997

Condition: excellent

Finger Size: 56 European/8 US (can be opened slightly)

Dimensions: band, 1/4" wide; C's, 5/16" wide

Weight: 5.2 grams

An elegant 18K yellow gold ring set with a faceted amethyst by famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. The sculptural quality of the design is highlighted by the contrast of wire-brushed and polished surfaces surrounding the deep violet amethyst. The interior of the shank is fully signed "Burle Marx 18K" and has Brazilian hallmarks.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Haroldo Burle Marx is well-known for jewels set with stones in "forma livre" (free-form) designs, but occasional pieces turn up with traditionally-cut stones. Some believe these designs were created in partnership with his brother, the noted landscape architect Roberto.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" wide at crown tapering 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 9
• Weight: 15.8 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 6.72 carats

An interesting pair of 14K gold earstuds, the rectangular faces worked in a textured basketweave design. One earring is in white gold and the other is in yellow. Both are centered with a prong-set round-cut diamond of good clarity and color. Marked "14K".

Origin: America. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/32" x 1/4". Weight: 3.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

Superb Mikimoto 18K yellow gold and pearl brooch in the shape of a cello. The cello’s body is set with 25 fine AA pearls graduating from 3.8 to 5.2 millimeters, and the tailpiece is studded with three round brilliant-cut diamonds. The f-holes, fingerboard, pegs and scroll are worked in gold and are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. An equally fine brooch in our collection, in the shape of a harp (Item #514948) was appraised in March 2006 by the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds by David Yurman. This design, part of the “Cable Buckle” collection, combines Yurman’s classic cable motif with an open buckle pave-set with round brilliant diamonds, graded as G/VS2. The earrings have posts with Omega clips. The earrings hug the ear closely, so they are appropriate for either day or evening wear. The backs are signed “D. Yurman 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but the original retail price was $3,950.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 ct.

A fine pair of vintage 18K gold flower-form earclips accented with diamonds and sapphires. The undulating petals are deeply cupped to create a realistic three-dimensional feel. Each earring is centered by a round brilliant-cut diamond surrounded by oval sapphires. The diamonds are graded as G/VVS2. The sapphires have fine pure blue coloring with excellent saturation. There are no marks, but there are inventory numbers. That, combined with the excellent workmanship and high quality stones, suggest the earrings are by a significant maker. The backs retain the original clips, but the posts have been removed. New posts can be added easily. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1980
• DIAMETER 1 1/8"
• WEIGHT 27.2 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT diamond, .30 carat; sapphire, 4.90 carats
• CONDITION excellent; posts removed

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, in a streamlined modern style with a hidden bail, is in one of the rarest versions. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ signature and maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent; the marks on the bottom edge of the pendant in the second photo are lighting reflections only. Dimensions: 3/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 3.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .07 ct.

Elegant 14K yellow gold and pearl brooch in a modern bouquet design. The four pearl "flowers" are set atop golden stems that are tied with a swirling gold ribbon. Each pearl is 5.5 mm and has the wonderful white body color with silvery overtones characteristic if Mikimoto pearls. The nacre is thick and the skins are very smooth. The back is marked with Mikimoto's hallmark and "K14".

Origin: Japan, circa 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-1/8". Weight: 6.0 grams.

Handsome 14K yellow gold and sterling silver brooch signed by David Yurman. The center hexagon is set with a hematite cabochon above a collet-set round brilliant-cut pink sapphire, and is flanked with by rope-twist extensions highlighted with 14K gold banding. The back is signed “D. Yurman 14K Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3-5/16” x 1”. Weight: 16.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: hematite, 13.36 carats; pink sapphire, .2 carat.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is Picasso’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable designs. The pin was available in several sizes. The design first appeared in 1983 and was available for many years. Earlier examples, such as this pin, are heavier than later pieces. The back is signed “Paloma Picasso” and is marked “1983 Tiffany & Co. 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/8 x 1-5/16”. Weight: 10.2 grams.

A heavy vintage 18K yellow gold chain in the elegant "Russian Braid" style. The chain is quite substantial and can be worn alone or with a heavy pendant. Stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 24-3/4" long.
• Weight: 18.7 grams.

An exceptionally fine Pampillonia 18K gold brooch in the form of a running thoroughbred horse mounted by a jockey. The workmanship is simply outstanding. Every detail of the horse's flying tail and the musculature underlying the coat are beautifully worked. The folds and wrinkles of the jockey's silks are equally detailed. The horse's eye is set with a small round ruby and the hoof of a hind leg touches on a .18-carat round brilliant cut diamond, graded as J color, SI2 clarity. The use of a yellow-green gold is an inspired choice that somehow keeps the rather heavy brooch from appearing overwhelming. The pin is unsigned, but is definitely by Pampillonia. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 2010
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-3/8"
• Weight: 30.8 grams

A striking Modernist take on a traditional 18K gold floral brooch. The stark thorn-like arrangement, enhanced with Akoya pearls, has an almost brutalist style. The gold surfaces are stippled to create a matte texture that contrasts with the polished gold of the small ribbon at the base. The pearls are nice quality with ivory body color. The brooch looks equally stylish worn as a pendant. The back is stamped "18K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1960
• DIMENSIONS 2 3/16" x 1 1/2"
• WEIGHT 10.2 grams
• CONDITION excellent

An impressively large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant in a crown shape set with large oval amethysts enhanced with smaller round amethysts. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very rich, deep violet coloring. Marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 25.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.29 cts.

An outstanding 14K yellow gold and pearl ring in a sophisticated modernist the design. The split shank creates a flat crown enclosing a row of three pearls, graduating from 5.3 to 6.6 mm. The quality of the pearls are easily on a par with Mikimoto. The luster is superb, the color is cream with rosé overtones, and the surfaces are smooth. Overall, the quality is estimated at AA. The quality of the mounting itself, is likewise superb. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 3/4" x 7/16". Finger Size: 4-3/4 (could easily be enlarged). Weight: 9.5 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. His designs changed over time and this piece is a classic example from the 1960s. The heart-shaped medallion is surrounded by a border of smaller hearts alternating with prong-set synthetic rubies. The front is signed A.A. and the pendant is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1965
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 4.7 grams

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, almandite garnet, aquamarine, amethyst and citrine. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and even how they are arranged in relation to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Soviet satellite. The earrings originally had posts which have been removed, leaving only the clips. Posts could be added again quite easily. The backs are signed by Stern and are marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.37 carats (tourmaline, 4.25 cts; almandite garnet 2.87 cts; citrine, 2.75 cts; aquamarine, 1.40 cts; amethyst, 1.10 cts).

An outstanding Venetian Etruscan Revival 18K yellow gold fob charm in the form of a crown. The bottom of the charm is set with a 9-carat oval brilliant amethyst of nice color. The sides of the charm are set with small round glass gemstones imitating small amethysts. The upper scrolls of the crown enclose a round cultured pearl. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” x 1-1/4” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.04 cts.

A fabulous pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik DANGLE earrings by H Stern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are the only examples of dangle Sputniks we have ever seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: spheres, 19/32" (16mm) diameter; length, 1-5/8" (44mm)
• Weight: 6.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.2 carats

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm in a crown form, set with five oval brilliant cut amethysts and four pearls. The amethysts have nice intense coloring and good clarity. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with ropetwists and rosettes. Marked 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.

A vintage 14K white gold navette-shaped cocktail ring, set with round brilliant cut diamonds and round blue sapphires. The diamonds are I/J color and I1 clarity. The sapphires are graded as medium-dark blue color and eye-clean clarity. The inside of the shank is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 1/2". Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 cts; sapphire, 1.0 ct.

A fine vintage Tiffany & Co stylized leaf brooch worked in 18K gold and set with sapphires and diamonds. The elegant form is created from wirework that gives the brooch a light feeling despite its generous size. Tiffany employed this gold wire construction to simulate feathers, animal fur and other natural textures. The gems are prong set above the gold background for added dimension. The diamonds are G color, VS1 clarity; the sapphires have medium-dark, strongly saturated blue violet-blue color. The back has a two-prong fur clip and is marked "Tiffany & Co".

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-3/8"
• Weight: 10.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: apphire, .56 carat; diamond, .50 carat.

A delightfully fun 14K yellow gold ring featuring a perky bunny rabbit standing on his hind legs. The ring was created from a vintage lapel pin with the addition of a 14K gold shank. The back of the rabbit is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: rabbit, 7/8" x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A very attractive vintage 14K yellow gold link bracelet, each link set with round brilliant cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are textured to resemble the tree bark. The diamonds are graded as I/SI1. The clasp is stamped with a French mark for imported 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-5/8”.
• Weight: 57.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.14 carats.

A heavy 18K yellow gold lantern-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with vermicelli stippled engraving on the upper shoulders—an unusual treatment. The sides are set with navette-shaped carnelian cabochons in scalloped collet settings. The carnelians have nice caramel coloring and good translucency. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/2” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 10.9 grams.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

A nice smaller-size pyramidal Etruscan style 18K yellow gold fob charm set with carnelian and dyed green chalcedony cabochons. The gold surfaces are finely decorated with beading and wirework in the antique Etruscan manner. The original jump ring is stamped with Italian 18K hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” long (excluding jump ring) x 3/4” Weight: 6.5 grams.

A lovely pair of 14K yellow gold earrings in a swirling foliate pattern set with pearls. The pearls, ranging 4.5-6mm, have cream body color with rose overtones. The surfaces are smooth and have fine luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1” x 7/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

An excellent multigem "Sputnik" ring in the style of H. Stern. Stern, the world's largest dealer in colored gemstones, created this design in the 1950's to showcase the variety of colored stones available from its Brazilian mines. This particular ring has a very brightly colored selection of stones including dark and light green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, spessartite garnet, almandite garnet and aquamarine. The stones are collet-set above the yellow gold dome in a way that simulated the appearance of Russia's Sputnik satellite. The shank is marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.75 cts; spessartite garnet, 1.08 cts; amethyst, .91 ct; aquamarine, .70 ct; almandite garnet, .69 ct; citrine, .46 ct.

An elegant modernist long chain necklace worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring black onyx and green nephrite jade beads. The onyx beads are carved in a melon motif, while the jade beads are left smooth. The jade has even, lightly-mottled color and good translucency. At 33”, the necklace is long enough to be worn at full length or doubled. The combination of strong colors with the yellow gold is very chic. The clasp is marked by an unidentified maker “Ste F”.

Origin: France, ca. 1965-70. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: onyx beads, 11.7mm diameter; nephrite beads, 8.1mm; overall length 33-1/4”. Weight: 43.6 gr.

A nice vintage 18K yellow gold spherical charm studded with red cabochons (possibly stained red chalcedony). The gold surfaces are nicely decorated with bright-cut engraving that simulates the beading of classic Etruscan pieces. Large charms of this sort were very popular during the 1950s and 60s. Marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams.

A nice Italian Etruscan style 18K gold lantern-shamed fob charm enhanced with coral cabochons. The midsection of the charm is left open to give it a feeling of lightness and to bring more life to the coral. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire and rosette decoration. The charm is stamped “750” for 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” wide, 1-1/4” long (excluding jump ring)

A stunning pair of vintage 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips set with diamonds by Cartier. The clips are worked in heavily textured gold that resembles a flame motif that ascends the earlobe when being worn. The recessed parts of the texture are unpolished, creating a strong contrast with the remaining highly-polished surfaces. Each clip features a irregularly shaped cluster of nine platinum-set round brilliant diamonds, graded as E-VVS2. These earrings are a lovely example of Cartier's prevailing style in the early 1960s. The gold shortages that followed World War II were in the past, so jewelry could take on a heavier look; and there was a pronounced fondness for chunkier, daytime jewelry that reflected the modern woman. It was important, however, that the jewelry could be worn in the evening as well. The backs are signed "Cartier France" and bear all the appropriate marks for 18K gold. The clips are original and never had posts, but posts could be added without disturbing any of the signatures or markings.

Origin: France, ca. 1962. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.

An attractive vintage Venetian Etruscan Revival fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold. The charm is set along the edges with alternating round amethysts and citrines. The center of one face is set with an amethyst and the other with a citrine. Exposed gold surfaces are intricately enhanced with rosettes and twisted wire decoration. The combination of violet and golen-yellow gemstones is quite attractive. Teted and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 9.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.9 cts; citrine 2.9 cts.

A nice pair of modernist 14K yellow gold and pearl earrings. 5.2-millimeter pearl studs suspend faceted gold bars that, in turn, suspend open-work gold spheres studded with pearls. Each sphere comprises a dozen 4.9 millimeter cultured pearls of very good quality. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are smooth. Each of the spheres is completed with the addition of prong-set seed pearls. The spheres dangle freely and exhibit lots of movement. During the late 1950s and 1960s, scientific knowledge became an inspiration for jewelry designers who began turning pieces like “Sputnik” rings. The arrangement of the pearls and the underlying gold structure of these earrings is clearly based on atomic-level molecule models. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8” long; 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A nice pair of vintage “Sputnik” earrings set with citrines. This style was popularized by H. Stern in the 1950s as a way to show of the company’s unparalleled access to the world’s finest colored gemstones. The design eventually became known as “Sputnik” because of the perceived resemblance to the Soviet satellite active during the early years of the space race. Generally, Sputnik pieces were set with multi-colored stones, but occasionally a piece turns up set only with one stone, as in this case. The citrines have medium-dark, strongly saturated yellowish-orange color that contrasts beautifully with the more yellowish color of the gold mountings. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.92 carats. 15/16" in diameter.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stone. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 23 mm (3/4 x 29/32 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 14.1 gr.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1233381).

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.

A fine modernist pendant designed as an 18K yellow gold frame enclosing a square plaque of smoky quartz with beveled edges. The front side of the gold frame has two geometric insets, a large square that occupies a fourth of the surface and a small quarter-circle at the opposite corner. This asymmetrical use of complimentary symmetrical shapes is reminiscent of the Mondrian paintings that inspired Yves Saint-Laurent’s 1965/66 couture collection. The pendant retains its original jump ring, stamped with the unidentified master goldsmith’s mark “JG.” The frame is also fully hallmarked.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: the quartz has small flakes at its corners (they are only visible upon very close inspection and could be removed by having the quartz re-beveled); all original. Dimensions: 32mm x 32mm (1-1/4 x 1-1/4 in) (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 18.8 gr.

A nice man's ring featuring a large cat’s eye quartz cabochon. The stone has pronounced chatoyancy (the cat’s eye effect) with excellent color contrast. The interior of the shank is stamped “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: cabochon, 13.7 x 11.4 mm; 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the back of the shank.
• Finger Size: 12-1/4.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 7.4 carats.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly tourmalines in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The tourmalines have greenish blueish overtones. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings. Posts could be easily added to compliment the omega clips.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 3/4”
• Weight: 16.8 grams,

A fine and large 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, aquamarine, garnet, citrine and amethyst. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of gemstones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with an older Stern hallmark at “750” for 18K. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5 (easily enlarged). Size: 1-1/8” diameter; 5/8” high. Weight: 7.5 grams. Approxiamte Total Gemstone Weight: 8.37 cts (garnet, 2.16cts; tourmaline, 1.89cts; amethyst, 1.80cts; citrine, 1.44cts; aquamarine, 1.08cts).

Fabulous 1960's David Webb seven-strand emerald bead torsade necklace finished with an 18K yellow gold clasp featuring a cushion-shaped rock crystal plaque centering a oval cabochon emerald flanked at the top and bottom with round brilliant-cut diamonds. This design is so evocative of the classic chunky Webb style, and the workmanship is of the finest quality. The diamonds are F color, VVS2 clarity. The 305 carats of fully-faceted emerald beads are fully faceted and are beautifully matched to the 27.28-carat cabochon emerald in the clasp. The emeralds, graded as "medium, moderately-strong, slightly yellowish green" (slyG 4/4), have a very pleasing and lively appearance. The clasp is signed "Webb" and is marked "18K".

When worn with the clasp, the necklace can be worn with the clasp at the front, back or to the side (our favorite). The torsade may also be worn without the clasp. For an even simpler, more modern look, the clasp may be threaded on a black silk cord as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: overall length, 17-5/8"; clasp, 1-3/8" x 1-3/16". Weight: clasp, 26.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.16 carats; emerald, 332.28 carats.

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).

A stunning vintage 18K yellow gold ring featuring an outstanding 1.60-carat Burmese ruby surrounded with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. Tiffany has not sold rubies since 1999 due to the U.S. embargo of Myanmar, and the design of this ring suggests it was made in the 1950s or 60s. The inside of the shank is marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “18K”.The ring is presented in its original dark blue velvet, satin-lined ring box marked “Tiffany & Co.”.

The ruby is fashioned in an oval mixed cut, measuring approximately 8.75 x 6.85 x 3.60 mm. The ring is accompanied by GIA origin report indicating that the ruby is of Burmese origin and shows no indications of heat treatment. The stone is a strongly saturated, medium-dark purplish-red color (pR 6/5). The cut displays good brilliance and proportions and a fair surface finish. The pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at F color, VVS1 clarity.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: light thinning at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Size: 9/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 3.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.60 carats; diamond, 1.33 carats.

An elegant 18k yellow gold ring featuring an oval brilliant cut aquamarine accented at compass points with folds of gold nestling small round brilliant diamonds. The aquamarine has medium light pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The cut is very good with excellent brilliance. The interior of the shank is stamped “18K.”

• America, circa 1960.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4 x 11/16” (20 x 17 mm).
• Weight: 6.2 grams.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 7.21 carats; diamond, .05 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A lovely and heavy vintage Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold charm in the form of a treasure chest. The surfaces are heavily decorated with beading and ropetwist tracery surrounding collet-set pearls. The chest's lid is hinged and operational. Fully hallmarked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16" x 1" x 1" (excluding bail). Weight: 17.1 grams.