Catalog (2475)

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A very good Victorian 18K gold watch fob worked with yellow, green and rose gold in an ornate rose pattern and mounted with an oval faceted citrine. The blossoms and foliage completely encircle the domed mounting decorated with stippled engraving. The fob hangs from an ornate foliate scroll. The gemstone in a fob such as this would often have been engraved with a monogram for use as a letter seal, but this citrine was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" x 5/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 8.0 cts.

A fine pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Krementz, both the front and back faces with repousse decoration of a roaring lion’s head. The backs are more typically plain bean-backs rather than decorated. The cufflinks are marked with Krementz’ 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 3/4"; back faces, 3/8” x 1/2". Weight: 5.0 grams.

An attractive pair of mid-20th century cufflinks the faces designed as clusters of baroque freshwater pearls overlaid with gold bands centering rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearls have lustrous surfaces, but their craggy shapes give them a more masculine appeal. The gold bands are enhanced with stippled engraving for added texture, and the small diamonds add a little sparkle without being overwhelming. The cufflinks are heavy and are very well constructed. These look particularly good worn with medium-blue or dark-colored shirts. The toggles are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2” x 3/4". Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 carat.

An interesting interpretation of the Art Deco stirrup style for cufflinks, this set features broad gold bands hinged at the top of the arch. The sides snap together and when being worn, the cufflinks circle around the outside of the cuff. The cufflinks are enhanced with a deeply engraved basketweave design. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/8” x 1”. Weight: 14.4 grams.

A nice 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an ornate scene of two hunting hounds sniffing through tall grass for their prey. A picket fence can be seen in the background and then a sky lightly engraved with clouds and a sun or moon represented by a star-set old mine cut diamond. The back of the locket has a nice 3-letter monogram (“MAC”) original to the period. The interior retains its original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter, excluding bail. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round citrines, amethyst, green tourmalines and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has a large number of citrines in a fine, golden honey color. Combined with the green shades of tourmaline, the overall appearance is almost autumnal. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold. This example is on the smaller side and is ideal for wear as a pinky ring or on a smaller hand.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.10 carats.

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with round brilliant cut amethysts. The stones have a beautiful, rich color with nice brilliancy. Amethysts used in cufflinks of the period were more frequently cut en cabochon rather than fully faceted as are these. The gold surfaces have a the soft matte “bloomed” or “Russian” finish sometimes seen on jewels from the Art Nouveau period. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.58 carats.

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with navette-shaped cabochons of lapis lazuli within surrounding gold borders enhanced with foliate engraving. The lapis is of the finest quality—known as Afghan lapis—with a rich dark violet-blue color. There are very few of the gold-colored flecks of pyrite which actually denote a lower quality of lapis. The faces are attached with arched connectors to bean backs. The connectors are marked for 14K and have the maker's mark for Wordley, Alsopp & Bliss.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; one bean back has a very slightly flattened area that would be positioned on the inside of the wrist when the cufflinks are being worn. Dimensions: 3/4" x 7/16". Weight: 5.0 grams.

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and four shirt studs in a slightly squared knot design. The set is well-made and has substantial weight. Each piece is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflink faces, 9/16" diameter; studs, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 19.2 grams.

An attractive pair of mid-20th century cufflinks in 800 silver, the square faces set with faceted plaques of synthetic green spinel in a dark olive green color. The rich color of the gemstones contrasts nicely with the silver borders. Solid bridges connect to the toggle backs enhanced with line engraving. The bridges are marked “800” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 13.8 grams.

An elegant pair of silver double-sided cufflinks by David-Andersen featuring Prussian blue guilloche enamel in a sunburst design encircled with opaque white champlevé enamel. Exposed areas of silver are gilt. The backs are stamped with the David-Anderson mark used 1888-1925.

Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.6 grams.

An important 19th century brooch of carved coral lilies nestled among 18K yellow gold chrysanthemum leaves set with old mine cut diamonds. The lily blossoms are fully three dimensional and are carved from the finest Mediterranean red coral, most likely harvested from the Italian coast near Naples. The heavily detailed gold leaves have a strong sculptural quality with undulating movement. Every surface is set with old mine cut diamonds of exceptional quality, averaging I/J color and SI clarity. Diamonds, collet-set and suspended from knife-edge mountings, also form the flowers' anthers. Diamonds are also set into portions of the stem that can't be seen from the front. Exposed areas of gold are delicately hand-engraved. The back of the brooch retains its original extended pinstem c-clasp. There is also a threaded aperture that was probably originally used to attach the brooch to a comb so it could be worn as a hair ornament. Tested and guaranteed at least 18K (it appears to be a little higher, perhaps 19-20K).

Origin: probably France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; one gold stem appears to have an old repair; no breaks in coral; no replacements. Dimensions: 3" x 3-5/8" x 1-1/8". Weight: 54.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 10.0 carats.

A phenomenal dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with green cat's-eye tourmalines. The settings are designed in a thistle pattern similar to Jean Schlumberger's designs for Tiffany. All the details are entirely hand-engraved and each piece looks as good from the side or back as it does from the front. The fine tourmalines have strongly bluish-green color, well-placed bright chatoyancy (cat's-eye effect), and very good symmetry and polish. Each cufflink is illegibly signed. The mechanical portion of the shirt studs are marked "14K", but all the other parts of the settings are tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflink front faces, 5/8" x 7/16"; cufflink back faces, 7/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 22.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 20.87 cts.

A lovely art glass cabinet vase with cameo decoration in the “Thistle” pattern by Daum. The glass has elegant mottled coloring with dark peach and amber. The rim and foot are enhanced with gilt edging. The bottom of the base is signed in gilt script and bears the cross of Lorraine. This example is finely carved and makes very nice use of the layers of color.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, very minor wear the gilding along the foot and rim. Size: 4-5/8” tall.

A very unusual Bohemian zwischengoldglass liquor glass, the bottom featuring an inset gilt and enameled design of a ladybug. The panel cutting along the beaker’s sides causes the design to be visually repeated. Small beakers such as these are normally decorated with a flower. This is the only example we’ve seen with an insect. The ladybug traditionally symbolizes good luck, so perhaps that's why it appears here.

Origin: Bohemia, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, gilding intact, no chips or cracks. Size: 2-1/4” tall.

A classic Art Deco figural cocktail shaker in the form of traditional milk can by Reed & Barton. The “Milk Can” was introduced in 1959 and came in two sizes, with the 32-ounce size retailing for $35. This shaker was a luxury product and was made with Reed & Barton’s highest quality plating. The bottom is stamped “Reed & Barton/27/32 oz.” It also retains the original paper lable.

Origin: America, ca. 1959. Condition: near mint, no dings or scratches. Size: 9-1/2” tall.

A very fine 12-piece set of gilt silver and mother of pearl dessert, fruit or cheese knives presented in their original fitted box. The tapered mother of pearl handles are tipped with silver finials and ferules decorated in a Louis XVI-style ribbon and reed motif. Most similar sets have plated blades, but these are silver. The silver is gilt, a process that is decorative, but also serves to prevent corrosion from the salts in cheeses which were often served in France as a dessert course. The gilding has faded to a very nice, light lemony color. The interior lid of the velvet- and silk-lined box is marked by the maker, “J. Fayard/Fabricant Orfèvre Joaillier/St Etienne”.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: knives are excellent, no dings, no cracks, normal fading of the gilding; the box shows considerable wear and has a slightly warped lid. Size: 7-1/2” long.