Catalog (2407)

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this pendant converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a pearl. The conversion was accomplished with the addition of a hidden bail the back of the flower. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this pendant is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching ring converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412578.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; a tiny nick to the purple at white enamel at the center for the flower behind the pearl visible upon close inspection
• Dimensions: 1 1/8" x 1 1/8"
• Weight: 6.1 grams.

A very rare French first standard silver (950/1000 pure silver) tastevin, the bottom bearing the coat of arms of the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. The arms depict St. Vincent, patron saint of winemakers. The body is further decorated with the traditional raised “perles” for highlighting the reflections in the wine and recessed “cupules” and elongated “godrons” intended to concentrate the color during the tasting process. The handle is worked in the snake motif traditional in Burgundian tastevins. The rim is stamped with the master silversmith’s mark for Emile Mémery & Henri Hours.

The Confrerie was established in 1934 to promote the wines of Burgundy. Modeled on Medieval guilds, membership in the Confrerie is strictly controlled and is open only to sponsored candidates. A tastevin bearing the arms of the Confrerie could only have belonged to a member. Tastevins used by the Confrerie come in a few different variations (not all the members are wealthy and must make do with a silverplate taster), with the being the rarest and most prized. Known for their service to the elite of Burgundy, Alsace and Lorraine, Mémery & Hours were the preferred silversmiths to the Confrerie’s elite.

• Origin: Lyon, France, ca 1935
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the coat of arms; a minor ding on each of two “cupules”
• Dimensions: 3-1/16” x 4” x 1”
• Weight: 96.8 grams

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with Persian turquoise cabochons. The stones are nicely matched for color. The gold surface is stippled and engraved in a rayed pattern with a foliate border. The engraving on the back takes design elements from the front. The interior has a glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The original bail, also engraved and set with a turquoise cabochon, is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with rhodolite garnets. The garnets have very fine color with bright shots of violet. The gold surface is stippled. The back cover is ornately engraved in a checkerboard pattern. The interior has a hinged glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Total Gemstone Weight: 3.71 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

A handsome griffin with back-stretched wings, a lion’s head and a curling serpent’s tail grasps an old mine cut diamond in this 19th century French brooch and necklace slide. Interestingly, the creature’s tongue is licking the diamond. The eye is set with a small faceted ruby. The back retains the original pin stem and a hinged clasp so the griffin can be attached to a chain. The hinged clasp is marked “Déposé” meaning the griffin was a patented design. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 3/4”
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .12 carat
• Weight: 4.7 grams

Open the ornately engraved box to reveal a miniature record play complete with an album that turn and a moveable needle arm. The controls are represented by small turquoise and coral cabochons. The music box plays “Let Me Call You Sweetheart,” a song recorded by everyone from Patti Page to Bing Crosby to Ethel Merman, to Micky and Minnie Mouse. The case is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent, music box in working condition
• Dimensions: 1” x 27/32” x 1/2"
• Weight: 22.1 grams

Fabulous and extremely rare hand-forged iron trade sign in the form of a pretzel. The sign retains an old gilt surface. There is a strong trace of red, yellow and blue paint on the back side and edges of the pretzel, no doubt the colors that were used on the wall or backboard to which the sign was attached through the 13 mounting holes. There also appears to be a red layer underneath the gold. This layer was probably intended to be an undercoating to give the gilding more depth. I don't think the pretzel was originally red and then gilded later. In any case, the gilt surface has considerable age, and probably dates from at least the late 19th century. Approximately 10% of the gilt surface shows wear (nearly all of it on the left side.

Origin: America, found in south-central Pennsylvania, circa mid-19th century. Condition: see paint description above, no cracks. Size: 18-1/2" x 15-1/2" x 1".

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern, the dome bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. The gems in this ring tend toward richer autumnal colors with a lot of garnet-red, gold and medium-dark green. Stamped with an early Stern mark and "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/2 to 6-3/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. This is the first time we've seen a blue tourmaline in a Sputnik ring. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This ring has unusually saturated colors, particularly in the green tourmalines and garnets. The shank is stamped "18K".

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.81 cts.

A very fine French Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold brooch set with diamonds, blue sapphires and demantoid garnets around a central sugarloaf cabochon 3.59-carat peridot. The demantoids exhibit the desirable horsetail inclusions characteristic of Russian stones. The combination of blue sapphires and the bright grassy green of the demantoids and peridot is very pleasing. All the smaller stones are old mine cuts. Six small rose-cut diamonds are collet-set in silver. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem which is fully stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K gold and with an illegible goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 19/32". Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 carat; sapphire, .4 carat; demantoid, .46 carat; peridot, 3.59 carats.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed as fearsome lion-like gargoyles. Each snarling mouth grasps an old mine cut diamond, and the eyes are set with small emerald cabochons. The fur is pierced and detailed in a way that suggests the stone fretwork of Gothic cathedrals. The faces are joined by arch connectors to bean backs. The connectors are stamped with the mark for Schira Bros. of Cincinnati, Ohio. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1 x 9/16 inch. Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .16 carat.

A beautiful pair of Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Louis Armand Rault. The design features a maiden with large flowers in her hair. The edges of the faces are irregularly cut to conform to the outlines of the design. The faces are connected with chains to backs decorated in a strapwork motif. Louis Rault worked primarily for Boucheron and was widely considered the finest gold and silver chaser of his time. He largely set the foundation for Boucheron's gold medal victory at the 1900 Exposition Universelle. Each face is signed with Rault's monogram and each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: front face, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams.

A colorful Venetian Etruscan fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold and set with six emerald cut amethysts. The gold surfaces are covered with ornate ropetwists, rosettes and beading. The shape—sort of an elongated barrel—is unusual and shows off the richly-colored amethysts to good advantage. The jump ring is marked 750 for "18K".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 3/4". Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.1 cts.

A classic 18K yellow gold tapered band by Tiffany & Co. set at the crown with an oval cabochon citrine. The stone has very nice slightly orangey-yellow color and eye-clean clarity. The ring has a very solid feel and can be worn by either a man or woman. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and is signed by Tiffany. This ring is no longer available at Tiffany, but originally sold for $2,150.

• Italy, ca. 2000
• Very good condition; light wear to the shank
• Finger Size: 5
• Dimensions: 5/16” wide at crown
• Weight: 8.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.0 carats

An astonishing figural pendant necklace featuring a natural semi-baroque pearl in the shape of a pear, accented with platinum and 18K yellow gold leaves and a stem, all set with old European cut diamonds. The pearl has very fine orient, with all the colors of the rainbow skating over the creamy white surface. The diamonds are graded at an average of H/SI1. Converted from an Edwardian stickpin, the pear is now a gorgeous pendant hanging from a French 18K white gold chain.

NOTE: The pendant is also available without the chain for $1050.

• France, ca. 1910.
• Excellent condition; pendant converted from a stickpin.
• Pendant, 11/16" x 1/2"; overall necklace length, 16-3/8".
• 3.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .26 carat.

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

A superb pair of 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks by Carter, Gough & Co., the faces decorated with a representation of Sandro Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus.” The jeweler took a few liberties with Botticelli’s design by having the goddess walking atop roiling waves rather than standing in a scallop shell, and fully baring her breasts instead of modestly covering them with her own flowing hair. The bean backs are designed with a swirling pattern that mimics the waves of the front faces. The connectors are stamped with Carter, Gough’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Dimensions: faces, 13/16” x 1/2"
• Weight: 6.7 grams

An outstanding pair of Napoleon III 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces fashioned from carved rhodolite garnets centering small collet-set natural pearls. The garnets have a strong purplish color and excellent clarity. The edge of each face is accented with scalloped ropework border. The faces are joined by figure-8 connectors. Stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 6.49 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The inside of the shank is stamped “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 13/16” diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 3.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.59 cts.

A rare large 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant ("medaille d'amour") enclosed in a halo of bright red rubies. The medal has a rebus spelling out "Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" ("More than yesterday, less than tomorrow"), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of "Cyrano de Bergerac") in 1889. The word "plus" is symbolized by a plus sign set with five single-cut diamonds and the word "moins" is symbolized by a minus sign set with two rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed with "A. Augis", in one of the more ornate versions with a crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a scalloped frame set with brilliant round cut synthetic rubies. The fairly large size is perfect to be worn as a necklace, but could also be worn on a very chunky charm bracelet. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with Augis' signature and marker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no engraving on reverse. Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 ct; synthetic ruby, 3.08 cts. Weight: 9.9 gr.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the cover with repousse decoration illustrating the Byzantine Empress Theodora. Though we’ve never seen this particular design before, Byzantine motifs were widely used in Art Nouveau jewels, especially in France where they were copied from costumes created for the actress Sarah Bernhardt and posters by Alphonse Mucha. The Empress is sumptuously dressed in a flowing robe with a wide jeweled collar, bracelets and earrings. She wears a heavy crown and sits on a throne. The quality of decoration is excellent. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram in elegant Art Nouveau script. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; sharp detail; a few small dings on the back side
• Dimensions: 1-5/32” diameter
• 5.7 grams

A very pretty vintage 18K gold fob charm in the Venetian Etruscan style. The sides of the charm are set with a row of oval cut citrines bordered at the top and bottom with rows of pink tourmaline, moonstone, citrine and amethyst cabochons. Exposed areas of the gold surface are enhanced with ornate twisted rope and rosette decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Dimensions: 7/8” wide; 1-1/2” long excluding jump ring
• Weight: 13.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.4 carats

A very fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face decorated with opaque black and red champlevé enamel. The severity of the chevron design contrasts nicely with slightly bowed sides of the faces and provides a compelling Art Deco look. The connectors are stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no chips to enamel. Dimensions: 5/8 x 7/16 in. Weight: 7.3 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K white gold cufflinks, each face formed from a plaque of lapis surrounded by smaller lapis batons. The canted corners are set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, as are the centers of the faces. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and SI1 clarity. The lapis is finely colored with only a minimal amount of the mica inclusions. The toggle backs are marked “585” for 14K.

Origin: probably Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 1/2". Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 ct.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone autumnal colors. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

An outstanding Victorian multi-colored 14K gold watch fob worked in yellow, green and rose gold with platinum. The fob is fashioned as a bouquet of flowers bound together with a scalloped border. The flowers are expertly enhanced with engraved details. The trace link chain alternates between rose gold, green gold and platinum. The swivel is original and is marked "14K."

• America, circa 1890
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• charm, 5/8" diameter; 4-11/16" overall length
• 9.5 grams

A very nice late Georgian carnelian spinner fob mounted in an 18K gold frame in the form of two intertwined snakes. The snakes are hand-chased with detailed scales and interesting, their heads are finished with duck-bill mouths (complete with teeth) grasping apples. This form is often seen in French silver wine tasters and was intended as a reminder of temptation and the snake in the Garden of Eden. The spiral mechanism in the center of the snakes’ entwined bodies is a spring mechanism that allows the carnelian plaque to be locked into place. The fob is generously sized and would make a stunning pendant. Marked with an indistinct Continental hallmark (likely French) and tested 18K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1830.
Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 1-3/4”.
• Weight: 11.3 grams.
• Condition: excellent; carnelian was never engraved; all original.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Made in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes amethyst, iolite, green tourmaline, peridot, citrine, pink tourmaline and garnet. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1381057).

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 1/4" wide at front, tapering to 1/8” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 5.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: not accurately measurable due to setting, but estimated around 5 carats
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A nice 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with oval brilliant cut citrines. The stones have intense orangey-yellow color and the gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/4” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.76 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A nice Victorian 18K gold locket, the front cover featuring a lioness shown in profile. She is enhanced with a bright emerald eye and grasps an old mine cut diamond in her mouth. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the lion; two pinpoint dings on the back cover
• Weight: 8.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A very nice Imperial Austrian 18K yellow gold brooch set with a reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting a pansy. Essex crystals with flower themes are very rare. In Victorian floriography, the pansy represented "think of me." The flower is beautifully colored. The crystal is set in a simple twisted rope frame. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. These could easily be removed and replaced with a pendant bail. The clasp is stamped with Austrian hallmarks used toward the end of the Imperial era.

• Origin: Austria, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter
• Weight: 4.5 grams

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and four shirt studs in a slightly squared knot design. The set is well-made and has substantial weight. Each piece is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflink faces, 9/16" diameter; studs, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 19.2 grams.

A very good pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with profiles of Greek or Roman gods. The faces are beautifully detailed against a stippled background and are finished with deliberately eroded edges to suggest antiquity. The designs are in the style of George Shiebler's "Curio Medallion" or "Homeric" patterns and are easily the equal of Shiebler's craftsmanship. The faces are finished in high-karat gold that lends them a brighter, yellower appearance than the backs. The connectors are stamped "14K" and have a hallmark that appears to be that of L. E. Garrigus & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Weight: 7.2 grams. Condition: excellent; strong detail; a testing scratch on one connector. Dimensions: faces, 3/4 x 1/2 inch.

A lovely Art Nouveau depiction of the Greek goddess Iris worked in 14K yellow gold. The goddess wears an elaborate floral headdress punctuated with an old mine cut diamond. Her wings, in folded position, can just be seen behind her shoulders. The brooch is finished with a garland of iris blossoms and foliage. Iris was the goddess of the rainbow and, as such, connected the earthly and heavenly worlds. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and watch hook. It can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the pinstem appears to be original, but is not gold.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A fine bronze animalier sculpture by Ferdinand Pautrot (1832-74). The figure represents a pair of songbirds, one of which has caught a fly in its mouth. The other bird appears to be contemplating the possibility of wresting the insect from his companion. Both birds are perched on the rocky ground typical of Pautrot's work. An upright flowering plant appears at one end of the composition. Along with Mène and Moigniez, Pautrot was considered the be France's finest sculptor of animal figures. He first successfully participated in the Paris Salon of 1861 (three entries) and continued to exhibit until 1870. The details of the feathers are stunning and absolutely realistic in appearance. The rocky ground is signed "F. Pautrot". The figure retains its original medium brown patina with light gilt touches.

Origin: France, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, original patina, built-up dust that could be cleaned if desired. Size: 6-1/4" x 3-1/4 x 6-1/2" tall.

Artist References: Benezit, "Dictionnaire des Peintres et Sculpteurs"; Lami, "Dictionnaire de Sculpteurs de l'ecole Francaise"; Kjellberg, "Bronzes of the 19th Century"; Savage, "A Concise History of Bronzes"; Payne, "Animals in Bronze"; Horswell, "Les Animaliers"; and Mackay, "Les Animaliers".

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone colors throughout. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.