Catalog (2409)

A beautiful Second Empire 18K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with an enamel portrait of a society lady in a brightly-colored formal dress. Her ornate hairdo is studded with an ostrich plume, blue forget-me-nots, lace and small rose-cut diamonds. Interestingly, she wears a locket in the portrait, as well as a gold bracelet and a shoulder brooch. The portrait is enclosed in a frame of opaque black enamel that accents the punch-work decoration around the image. The original bail is similarly decorated. The interior retains the original frames, glass covers and French blue silk linings. The back is simply engraved with a shield reserve (never monogrammed). Stamped with French hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: no enamel damage; three dings on the reverse.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4' x 2-1/8" (including bail).
• Weight: 20.3 grams.

A classic 19th century French second standard (800/1000 pure silver) silver tastevin of traditional form and the bottom inset with a silver coin from the reign of Louis XV. The sides of the tastevin are decorated with the traditional raised “perles,” recessed “cupules,” and elongated “godrons” for assessing the depth of color and concentration of a wine. The coin, dating to 1732, depicts the profile of the king surrounded by the Latin inscription “Louis XV, by grace of God, king of France and Navarre.” The taster is completed with an especially fine double-snake handle. While double snakes are the traditional handle form for Burundian tastevins, the pretzel-like shape and the realistic appearance of the entwined snakes is a most unusual treatment. The handle and bowl are stamped with French 2nd standard silver hallmarks and the bowl also has an unidentified master silversmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: very good; a small ding to one side of the bowl; typical wear to the front of the coin; reverse side of the coin has sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 2-13/16” x 3-5/8” x 3/4".
• Weight: 56.4 grams.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, each face enhanced with “quilted” engraving studded with round brilliant cut diamonds and sapphires. Cufflinks in this design are often marked “Tiffany & Co.” They were made by one of the Newark jewelers such as Larter for retail at Tiffany’s New York store. They always have generous weight and use high-quality gemstones. Sometimes, as in this case, they are marked only “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2”.
• Weight: 11.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .18 carat; sapphire, .80 carat.

A classic pair of Mid-Century “around the cuff” mesh cufflinks set with square cut sapphires and round diamonds. This classic style securely holds the cuff and is heavy enough to know you’re wearing them. At the same time, the flexible mesh makes them very comfortable. The gemstones have excellent color and clarity. The overall look is clean and streamlined. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked by Gubelin and bears a serial number.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1950.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 3/8” (10mm) wide.
• Weight: 22.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; sapphire, 1.45 carats.

A nice Georgian locket in the form of a Maltese cross with a central rock crystal locket compartment. The arms of the cross are made from faceted carnelian plaques mounted in gold around the central compartment. The compartment was intended to hold the woven hair or perhaps a miniature portrait of a loved one. The Cross of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John was created in 1126 based on designs from the Crusades. The eight points of the arms represented truth, faith, repentance, humility, justice, mercy, sincerity and endurance. During the latter Georgian era, romantic notions of history caused the Maltese cross to become a very popular fashion accessory. Tested and guaranteed 12K.

• Origin: England, ca. 1800.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to gold mountings or carnelian; the cross retains its original fluted gold bail; a small (1/32”) flake to one corner of a rock crystal cover.
• Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 1-7/16” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 9.0 grams.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the unusual form of a large snail accompanied by a pair of baby snails. The snail is usually alone or perhaps with just one smaller one. They are worked in chrome and are set on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who had a side gig designing entertaining barware. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials. Sets such as this were used on bar and café counters to serve cocktail garnishes, canapés, or even escargot.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 6-7/8” x 3-1/8” x 4-1/4”.

A classic 19th century French silver tastevin of traditional form and the bottom inset with a silver jeton the reign of Louis XV. The sides of the tastevin are decorated with the traditional raised “perles,” recessed “cupules,” and elongated “godrons” for assessing the depth of color and concentration of a wine. The jeton, dating to 1773, depicts the profile of the king surrounded by the Latin inscription “Louis XV, Christian King” and is signed by the engraver, Pierre-Simon-Benjamin Duvivier. The reverse bears the coat of arms of the Duchy of Bourgogne and the inscription “Comitia Burgundiae 1773.” Silver jetons were struck by various civic governments (in this case, the Three Estates of Burgundy) and by the Crown itself to honor important people or significant historic occasions. The taster is completed with traditional handle in the form of a pair of stylized snakes grasping an apple in their mouths. The handle is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; jeton in nearly mint condition.
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” x 3-1/16” x 11/16".
• Weight: 34.6 grams.

A delightful set of six sterling silver Art Deco cocktail picks with finials in the form of the Devil. The little naked figure grasps a flaming torch in one upraised hand and his tail is replaced by the business end of the cocktail pick. No doubt, the picks were intended to remind one, rather tongue in cheek, of the sin of drinking! Each pick is fully hallmarked for Barker Brothers Silver Ltd. The picks are presented in their original velvet- and silk-lined fitted case.

• Origin: Birmingham, England, 1929.
• Condition: picks are excellent; box is very good with minor discoloration to the velvet lining.
• Dimensions: picks, 3-17/32” long.
• Weight: 26.8 grams.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold bracelet by Tiffany & Co. featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals. The center crystal depicts a horse and rider jumping a fence and is flanked by a matching pair of crystals depicting hounds. The crystals are separated by links in the shape of horseshoes overlaid with bits. Sporting bracelets set with Essex crystals are uncommon and examples by major makers such as Tiffany are nearly impossible to find. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co./14K/Pat. Sept. 1924".

• Origin: America, 1924.
• Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
• Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
• Weight: 18.3 grams.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The 45” chain has ornate scrolling plaques separated by smaller simple links. The fancy links are further highlighted with beaded decoration. The generous length allows the chain to be worn doubled or tripled. In fact, the chain has an ingenious clasp that holds the necklace at just the right staggered length (21” and 25”)when doubled. The chain can be worn doubled, or at full length by releasing one of the clasps. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular from the Second Empire through the beginning of the 20th century. This example is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Length: 45”.
• Weight: 34.6 grams.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The 47” chain has ornate scrolling plaques separated by smaller simple links. The fancy links are further highlighted with rope-twist and beaded decoration. The generous length allows the chain to be worn doubled or tripled. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular from the Second Empire through the beginning of the 20th century. This example is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; original clasp replaced with a more secure lobster claw clasp.
• Length: 47”.
• Weight: 34.3 grams.

A lovely pair of French Victorian 18K gold earrings set with sapphires and rose cut diamonds. Each earring features a prong-set blue sapphire surrounded by a cluster of ten rose cut diamonds, bead-set in an engraved background. The backs are finished with a hand-pierced gallery. The sapphires and diamonds have particularly good color and clarity for the period. This style of earrings was popular in the 1850's when popular hairstyles that covered the ears rendered large earrings irrelevant. Smaller earrings, "dormeuses" ("sleepers") were worn to keep the piercings open while awaiting the inevitable return of grander styles. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1855.
• Condition: very good, all original, a minor repair to one earwire.
• Dimensions: 3/8" x 9/16" (from top of earwire).
• Weight: 2.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .38 carat; diamond, .10 carat.

A wonderful boxed set of six 800 silver Jugendstil (“Art Nouveau”) demitasse or chocolate spoons, each featuring a scene from different Brothers Grimm fairy tales. The tales include “Bremen Town Musicians”, “The Frog Prince”, “Little Red Riding Hood”, “Hansel & Gretel”, “Sleeping Beauty”, and “Puss in Boots”. Bruckmann, one of the most important Imperial German silversmiths of the Jugendstil period, worked with many leading designers. In this case, the designer was Hugo Cauer who created the “Märchen” (“Fairy Tales”) line in 1903/04. Bruckmann and Cauer were responsible for the most important silver pieces entered into Germany’s display at the 1900 World Exposition in Paris. The “Fairy Tale” design occasionally appears on children’s table ware such as napkin rings or drinking cups, so it’s possible the spoons were intended to do double duty as chocolate spoons, as well. The spoons are presented in their original fitted box marked with the logo of the luxury jeweler Oscar Stodt. The back of each is stamped with Stodt’s retailer’s mark, as well as Bruckmann’s maker’s mark and appropriate hallmarks for 800 silver.

• Origin: Germany, ca. 1904.
• Condition: excellent, original gilding intact.
• Dimensions: spoons, 3-3/4” long.
• Weight: 55.6 grams.

An unusual vintage 14K gold equestrian keychain by Tiffany & Co. The chain has a fob on either end, one in the form of a horseshoe and the other in the form of a fully three-dimensions horse head. The head is nicely detailed and sparkles with a pair of bright ruby eyes. The rubies, though small, have very fine bright color. The back of the horseshoe is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Keys are added by holding the chain against one side of the horseshoe and slipping on the key. When the chain is no longer being held next to the horseshoe, the key stays securely between the two fobs.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; a small pinpoint ding underneat the bottom of the horse's neck.
• Dimensions: overall length, 4-5/8"; horse head, 3/4" x 15/16".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.

A heavy vintage 18K yellow gold chain in the elegant "Russian Braid" style. The chain is quite substantial and can be worn alone or with a heavy pendant. Stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 24-3/4" long.
• Weight: 18.7 grams.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark. One side of the shank is engraved with a star centering a small diamond, also a Stern branding.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide at front, tapering to 5/32” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 4.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight:2.14 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A colorful pair of 18K gold and gemstone earrings from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes amethyst, several shades of citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. Each earring is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s "S" and star hallmarks.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32” wide; 11/16" long.
• Weight: 3.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.7 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A fine 10x19mm navettte-shaped opal set in an Art Deco 14K yellow gold setting enhanced with bright champleve enamels in shades of dark and light green, red, and black. The opal has a very nice "pinfire" pattern with an unusually generous amount of red/orange play of color. The pattern is evenly dispersed, with color throughout the stone. Unlike some of the other opal patterns, pinfire has the distinction of showing pattern when viewed from any direction. Even the bottom of the stone visible through the mounting has nice color and pattern. The colors of the stone are nicely accented with the enamels on the mounting. The shank is engraved in a floral pattern and is accented at the shoulders with floral appliques worked in white gold. The interior of the shank is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
Dimensions: crown, 7/8" x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 6.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; no crazing, scratching or pitting to opal.