Catalog (2407)

A three-color faceted overlay glass locket in a rolled gold mounting. The glass is cut to show the layers of red, white and blue opaque glass. The back cover is ruby glass dark enough to appear opaque black unless held to the light.

Origin: France, ca. 1875

Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks

Dimensions: 1" x 13/16"

A very nice pair of Art Deco 14K gold and enamel cufflinks by Carrington. The enamel is worked in a particularly pleasant shade of French blue with opaque white accents. The gold surfaces underneath the translucent enamel had engine-turned engraving in a pattern that suggests moire silk. The edges of the faces are very slightly, gracefully bowed outward. The connectors are hallmarked by Carrington. These cufflinks, worked in a different color combination, are shown in “Cuff Links” by Jonas and Nissenson.

Origin: America, 1910-15

Condition: excellent, minute surface wear visible under 10x magnification

Size: 9/16” x 9/16”

Weight: 10.5 grams

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is the classic Dijonais interpretation of the form. The handle is in the tradition form of two entwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to remind drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an unidentified maker's mark (EE with a plumb bob).

• France, ca. 1925
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, a small porosity blemish (1/4") under the rim on one side
• Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-3/16" x 1"
• Weight: 55.7 grams

A heavy pair of vintage 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks. Each round face is decorated with a band of opaque royal blue enamel surrounding a collet-set round brilliant cut diamond. The diamonds are about I/J color and are SI1 clarity. The faces are finished with pierced gallery sides. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The bar connectors are marked “750” and have a worn maker’s mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage

Size: 5/8” diameter

Weight: 14.5 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

An elegant pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and sterling silver by DeBeers Award winning jewelry designer John Atencio. The pendant features a square cushion cut amethyst surrounded by pave-set round brilliant cut diamonds. The amethyst has strong purple coloring, and the use of concave facets creates are very lively brilliance in the stone stone. The diamonds are of good quality, averaging J color and SI clarity. The setting is finely detailed with niello accents. The bale is hinged so the pendant can be slipped over a thick chain, and is marked “SS 18K”. The back of the setting incorporates the jeweler’s initials “JA” as a signature. The approximate retail cost of this pendant is $830.

Origin: America, ca. 2000

Condition: excellent

Size: 1-3/16” x 11/16”

Weight: 12.5 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.81 carats; diamond, .28 carat.

Attractive Victorian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks. Each face is in a figure-eight shape enclosed in an outer oval border. Collet-set Persian turquoise cabochons center each face. The faces are joined by chains. Indistinctly hallmarked. Tested and guaranteed at least 14K.

Circa 1870

Condition: excellent, all original

Dimensions: 5/8” x 7/16”

Weight: 9.5 grams.

Extraordinary patriotic World War II era “V for Victory” brooch in 14K yellow gold set with sapphires and pearls. Victory sentiments were fashionable in costume jewelry, but fine jewelry examples are extremely scarce. This example is convertible into a propeller-shaped bar pin, favored by the wives and mothers of men in the Air Corps. The pin is set with blue sapphire (likely Montana origin), including a blue-to-purple color change sapphire at the hinge. The pinstem and clasp could be removed for conversion to a V-shaped or bar-shaped pendant. Stamped with an unknown maker's mark "A14K" and "Pat Pend".

Origin: America, 1940-45. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-13/16” x 1-13/16” in the “V” formation; 3-1/2” x 1/4" in bar formation. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.81 carats.

A substantial pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the oval faces inset with a mother-of-pearl plaque centering a bezel-set round brilliant diamond of approximately .6 carat. The outer edges of the faces is finished in a border of small round diamonds. The hinges and either end of the back closures are finished with spessartite garnet cabochons. The diamonds are G color, I1 clarity.

Ca. 1980's. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 13/16" x 5/8". Weight: 18.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 cts; garnet, .70 ct.

A nicely-detailed late Victorian pin depicting a lion’s head. The open mouth grasps a 10-point old European-cut diamond, while each eye is set with a small cabochon ruby. The head is surrounded by flowing fur that hints at Art Nouveau styling. The design is similar to a tiger’s head brooch that was made by Alling & Co., and probably was made by one of Alling’s Newark competitors. The c-clasp is an old replacement. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, replaced clasp. Size: 1-7/32” x 7/8”. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

A handsome 18K yellow gold ring by Cartier in the "Lanières" design, set with diamonds and rubies. The wide gold band is decorated in an engraved checkerboard pattern, with certain squares filled in with either a brilliant round cut diamond or a round cut ruby. The ring is set with stones on only one side, so it can be turned around and worn as an handsomely geometric wide gold band. The ring can be worn by either a man or woman. The diamonds are graded as F color, SI1 clarity; the rubies are of equally fine quality with good color saturation and minimal inclusions. The inside of the ring is signed “Cartier”, marked “750” for 18K, marked “54” for the European size (the ring actually measures a 55), and has the serial number “949696”.

Origin: France, ca. 1970s. Finger Size: 54/55 (European), 7-1/8 (American). Band Width: 1/2”. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 carat; ruby, .32 carat. Weight: 15.7 grams.

A particularly fine gentleman’s ring in 14K yellow gold, the top set with alternating round cut rubies and brilliant round cut diamonds in star settings. Gypsy-set rings were first popular in the Victorian era, but reappeared in the 1930s and 40s, sometimes with the addition of star settings. The rubies are natural, without evidence of treatment, and are color-graded as medium dark slightly brownish strongly purplish-red (stpR 6/2) and clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are H/VS1. The ring has substantial weight and is comfortable to wear. The inside of the shank is marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/16” wide. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .60 ct; ruby, .70 ct.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a style blending elements of Aesthetic and Art Nouveau design. The round faces are decorated with a finely-pierced design of grapevines complete with clusters of fruit. The faces are joined by chains to torpedo backs. These would be a wonderful gift for the true wine lover and connoisseur. Fully marked with French hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 5.8 grams.

A stunning 1950's costume jewelry pendant with prong-set aurora borealis rhinestones in shades of blue and white surrounding a central large amethyst rhinestone. The brooch is finished with four pear-shaped amethyst drops. The metal has a matte gold finish. With the addition of a pendant loop affixed to the pinstem, this piece would make a terrific pendant.

Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 1-3/8".

A wonderful Art Nouveau enameled gold witch's heart worked in shades of green, yellow and rose enamel over an engraved background and set with a pair of natural baroque pearls. The shading of the enamels is lovely and contrasts nicely with the luster of the pearls. In Victorian symbology, the witch's heart was used to express the sentiment of "bewitched by love." We've never before seen a witch's heart in an Art Nouveau enamel. The pendant has a folding bail and also a pinstem for wear as a brooch. The reverse is stamped with the mark for A.J. Hedges.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 1". Weight: 7.3 grams.

A nice sterling rollover jigger by Towle. The jigger is intended to rest over the opening of a cocktail shaker or glass and then be tipped over neatly to pour the contents directly into the vessel. Marked by Towle.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 2" high; 6" wide. Weight: 33.1 grams.

A very nice 14K yellow gold pendant set with a circle of diamonds around a natural black star sapphire. The cabochon sapphire is very fine quality with excellent asterism (the star-like effect). The diamonds are bead-set in white gold. Exposed areas of gold have a Florentine finish that contrasts nicely with the sparkle of the diamonds and sapphires. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos is available for an additional $85.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 2.75 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .66 carat; diamond, .2 carat.

A late Victorian pendant (also has a brooch fitting) in the Arts & Crafts style featuring an Australian semi-black boulder opal of fine quality. The gemstone has large strong flashes of green and blue, moderated with some violet and just a hint of orange-red. The medium-dark body color creates an excellent contrast to the spectral colors, and the play-of-color shows equally in all directions. The boulder opal is cabochon cut and incorporates areas of the sandstone matrix (the host rock) on both the front and back sides (25% on the front and 60% on the back). Australian opals were a relatively recent discovery at the time Arts & Crafts jewelry became popular and the matrix appearance of some boulder opals was especially suitable to the style. The brooch retains the original extended pinstem and a movable bale that allows the piece to be worn as either a brooch or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

NOTE: This piece could easily be converted to a very striking ring.

Origin: England, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no cracking or crazing, there is natural pitting to the surface characteristic to the type of gemstone. Size: 1” x 13/16”. Opal Size: 24 x 19 x 7 mm. Approximate Opal Weight: 18.38 carats.

An important 18K yellow gold and natural semi-baroque pearl necklace in the "Lierre" ("Ivy") design by Edouard Aimé Arnould. The necklace features five foliate plaques set with pearls flanked on either side with a long- and short-link chain. The sculptural quality of the leaves is enhanced with areas of bright polish contrasting with areas in a slightly matte finish, a technique repeated on the back sides, as well. The natural pearls have excellent luster with faintly lavender/rose overtones. In Victorian symbolism, ivy represented the bonds of love in marriage. One can imagine a bride, even today, wearing such a necklace with her gown! Each section of the necklace is stamped with French 18K marks, and the central plaque is signed "Arnould".

Arnould was among the most important of the French Art Nouveau jewelers and is well listed in most of the scholarly references of the period. He opened his studio at 7, rue Racine, Paris in 1890. In 1911, a French design journal credited him with "jewels of the best taste." Around 1900, Maison Arnould published a catalog. The final photograph in this listing shows the necklace as it was listed in the catalog. It's interesting to note that the necklace was available with or without the natural pearls, and that the price nearly doubled for the pearl version. Other pages of the catalog show the "Lierre" design used for pendants, bracelet charms, hair barrettes, brooches, rings, bracelets and cufflinks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: overall length, 16-1/2"; length of floral plaques together, 6-1/2"; center plaque, 2" x 1-3/4". Weight: 31.2 grams.

A lovely stylized flower basket pendant featuring flowers set with diamond, emerald and sapphire centers. The surrounding foliage is worked in a mix of glossy and stippled finishes to add depth and detail. The gemstones are of very good quality, with vivid color saturation and good clarity. The back of the pendant has a fixed bail and a pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It is stamped with French marks for 18K gold.

Ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-7/16". Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; emerald, .07 ct; sapphire, .10 ct.

NOTE: The listed price includes the 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos, but we offer the option to purchase the piece without the chain.

A fine example of some of the best enameled silver produced by David-Andersen in the late 1950s. This brooch represents "Spring" from the "Four Seasons" line designed for David-Andersen by Thorbjorn Lie-Jorgensen in the late 1950s. The set of designs represent an abstract aerial views of the same landscape in each of the four seasons. "Spring" is worked in lush shades of turquoise, teal blue, gold and brown. The back, with the original patina, retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, and is marked "D-A", "925S" and "Norway-Sterling".

Origin: Norway, ca. 1959. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-5/16". Weight: 16.25 grams.

A wonderful Victorian 18K yellow gold curb link chain interrupted at regular intervals with bi-color ("watermelon") tourmaline beads. The chain is finished with a fantastic clasp in the form of a lady's hand grasping floral-engraved loop. At 39" in length, the necklace can be worn doubled or perhaps even tripled. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 39" long. Weight: 67.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 215.0 carats.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold Sputnik bracelet by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The Sputnik line was made in rings, earrings, pendants, charms, brooches and rarest of all, bracelets. The clasp is marked for 18K and has Stern's older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: length, 7-3/4"; width, 15/16". Weight: 28.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 19.0 cts.

A rare pair of large 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are of a particularly large size. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed if desired. Marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 16.34 cts.

A striking modernist 14K yellow gold link bracelet, with enlaced circular and oval links. The interplay of shapes creates a very chic look. It can be worn alone or with a collection of charms. The reverse is stamped for 14K gold and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7-3/4" long; 5/8" wide. Weight: 25.2 grams.

A lovely Georgian mourning pin worked in 9K yellow gold, the center crystal-covered compartment bordered in faceted jet. Lighter-colored hair is somewhat less common that dark hair, and it contrasts particularly nicely with the black border. The reverse is engraved "Wm Dumelow/ob. 16 Mar/1811 At 42." Tested and guaranteed 9K.

Origin: England, 1811. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 9/16". Weight: 3.3 grams.

An elegant gilt sterling silver oval brooch by Kirk in the "Repousse" pattern. Kirk made a range of jewelry in this pattern but only a few were then gilt. With the addition of a bail to the back, this pin would make a very striking vertical pendant. The back is stamped with Kirk's hallmark from the 1932-61 period.

Origin: America, ca 1950. Condition: excellent, no wear to gilding. Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 15/16". Weight: 18.5 grams.

A vintage 18K gold Sputnik ring of dramatically large proportions by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen fine-quality round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This is, by far, the largest Sputnik ring we've ever encountered, rising a full 3/4" above the finger. The shank is stamped with Stern's older hallmark and is marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-3/4 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: dome, 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.92 carats.

A 14K white gold figural pin in the form of a bird perched on a branch by Samuel Benham. The bird is pavé-set with 41 round single cut diamonds and 18 round brilliant sapphires. The gemstones have attractive sparkle enhanced by the textured surface of the gold setting. The back is stamped "14K" and with Benham's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-7/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .57 carat; sapphire, .29 carat.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 13/16" diameter. Weight: 6.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

A very fine 14K multicolored gold pendant/pin in the form of a ruffled pansy. Each of the petals is subtly sahded from rose gold at the edges through shades of yellow and finally, to a grayish gold (possibly platinum) where the petals join. The surface is finished with a lightly stippled texture. The center of the flower is set with a round blue sapphire and three of the petals are set with old mine cut diamond "dew drops". The diamonds are small, but are very good quality (F/VVS1) and sapphire has rich violetish-blue coloring. The reverse retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is marked "Pat." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 1-1/8". Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: sapphire .39 carat; diamond, .08 carat.

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with a rich reddish-orange citrine. The pearls have very attractive lustre. The back retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is stamped with the mark for Charles S. Crossman & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Citrine Weight: .43 carat.

A fun Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of an oyster, complete with a small natural pearl resting on the lip of the oyster's shell. The surface is hand engraved to mimic the roughness of an oyster shell. The reverse is stamped "14K" and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 13/16"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.6 grams.

An elegant pair of 19K yellow gold "Contas de Viana" earclips. The domes are covered with concentric circles of ropetwist appliques in the ancient Etruscan style. The clips are stamped with older Portuguese hallmarks for 19K.

Viana beads were modeled on ancient Etruscan jewels found in archaeological sites in Portugal. The circular patterns of filigree and granulation were thought to resemble the eyes of a partridge, bringing luck and protection. A Portuguese girl received her first bead from her godmother at birth. Whenever the family could afford it, another bead was added to the collection with the goal being to create a complete necklace—a circle of protection and good luck—in time for her marriage.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 9.9 grams.

A 14K yellow gold gypsy ring with a hand-engraved scrolling motif to the shank on either side of a high-domed cabochon emerald. The emerald is graded as dark vivid green (G7/6) with moderate clarity and color enhancement typical of emeralds. The resulting color contrast with the gold setting is especially attractive, as is the classic tapering shape of the shank. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Dimensions: 7/16" wide, tapering to 5/32" at the back of the shank. Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: 1.03 carat.

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with blister pearls, by Carrington. The pearls have very lustrous surfaces with good iridescence and are simply set in gold frames. These cufflinks would look particularly good worn with a dark shirt. The backs are stamped with Carrington's 14K gold mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 3/4" x 9/16"; back faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 7.5 grams.

A pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks with a classic 1960's brushed gold texture. The texture is worked in short sections oriented in random directions, giving the effect of leopard spots in racking light. The toggle backs are worked in a simple ribbed design. The connectors are signed "Cartier" and are also marked "Swiss Made/18K/750." The "Swiss Made" stamp is more often seen on watch cases and indicates that the cufflinks were made by one of Cartier's watchmakers, likely to match a watch dial.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 19/32" (15mm) x 19/32" (15mm). Weight: 13.4 grams.