Catalog (2407)

A handsome Victorian gentleman's ring in a substantial 14K gold setting. The ring features a masculine brown smoky quartz with flashes of goldish-orange brilliance. The setting is enhanced with ornate strapwork against a stippled background. The setting holds the stone well above the finger and the overall look is very weighty. The interior of the shank is stamped "14k."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Finger Size: 10-1/4.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" wide at back of shank.
• Weight: 13.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.44 carats.

A beautifully-carved hardstone cameo depicting Libertas, the Roman goddess of liberty. She can be identified from the shape of the diadem she wears in her hair. The image is quite similar to American "Morgan" silver dollars from the late 19th century. The color contrast of the stone is quite remarkable. The carnelian cameo is set into an intricate gold setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The back has both a brooch fitting and a hidden bail for wear as a pendant. The back is stamped "14K" and also has the maker's mark for Perley Bros.

NOTE: The piece is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no cameo damage.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-3/16".
• Weight: 6.8 grams. Fabulous late Victorian hardstone cameo brooch. The carnelian cameo represents "Liberty" and is very similar to the Liberty head that appeared on "Morgan" silver dollars and quarters of the period. The 14K mounting is floridly decorated with millegraining, applied beads and rosettes, and rope twist borders. The reverse retains its original pinstem and modified c-clasp. The reverse is marked 14K and is signed for the maker, Perley Bros. of New York. Origin: America, 1870s. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-1/4".

A lovely Art Nouveau brooch depicting a lady surrounded by birds in 14K yellow gold and diamonds. The design is beautifully worked with tremendous textural detail, and the old mine cut diamond set in the headdress adds a touch of sparkle. The designer of this brooch is most certainly of French origin and was created with the idea of licensing it to manufacturing jewelers in France, England and the U.S. When this design appears with French hallmarks, it’s hollow and worked in 18K; English versions are typically in sterling silver; and American versions are solid and worked in 14K. Krementz is known to have used this design, though this example is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The brooch can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 6.6 grams.
• Approximate Dimond Weight: .04 carat.

A classic French Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring a young woman with naught but a sprig of flowers covering her breasts set against a poppy blossom. A swallow appears over her shoulder. In Victorian symbology, swallows variously represented wishes for a safe return or “home and heart” since the they mate for life. Similarly, poppies had various meanings including imagination and pleasure. The design was created by the sculptor Armand-Pierre-Louis Quenard (1865-1925) and presented at the inaugural salon of the Société des Artistes Français in 1901. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The brooch could be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1901.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

This Art Nouveau medallion brooch depicts the beautiful Ophelia (spelled “Ophelie” in the French tradition), surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, as symbols of watery grave in Shakespeare’s “Hamlet.” Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. This design was created by the French jeweler and sculptor Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) for the 1908 Exposition de la Parure Précieuse de la Femme in Paris. Like many other Art Nouveau medalists, Vernier licensed some of his designs to various manufacturing jewelers around the world. This example is American and is marked 14K. The brooch retains its original watch hook and pinstem/clasp.

NOTE: The brooch could easily be worn as a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: America, ca. 1908.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A delightfully feisty-looking cat is featured in the French Art Nouveau brooch. We’re particularly fond of his enormously long whiskers that stretch the full width of the pin. The pin is stamped with French silver marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The pin could be worn as a pendant with the addition of a bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Weight: 5.4 grams.

A striking Art Nouveau 18K gold and pearl necklace in the form of a pendant of chestnut leaves suspended from a cluster of chestnuts. The gold surfaces are entirely hand engraved with very fine detail. The pendant is set with a natural button pearl and suspends a second pearl at the bottom. The chain is enhanced with a series of tiny pearls, as well. Chestnut trees have traditionally represented fertility, but in Victorian flower language, came more to represent “luxury and abundance.” This style of necklace, called a “draperie” was a popular form among Parisian jewelers around 1900-10. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, as well as an illegible maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/8” wide x 3” long from the cluster of fruit to the suspended pearl; chain length, 15-7/8”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; a miniscule fleabite to the enamel at the edge of one petal.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.8 grams.

A fantastic and rare pair of 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks by Krementz, the double faces depicting Native American warriors. The facial and hair details are beautifully worked in a design that also includes a bow and a quiver of arrows. Krementz made at least two different designs depicting Native Americans, with this being the more ornate of the two. The backs are fully marked by Krementz.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: large faces, 3/4" x 17/32"; small faces, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau depiction of the Greek goddess Iris worked in 14K yellow gold. The goddess wears an elaborate floral headdress punctuated with an old mine cut diamond. Her wings, in folded position, can just be seen behind her shoulders. The brooch is finished with a garland of iris blossoms and foliage. Iris was the goddess of the rainbow and, as such, connected the earthly and heavenly worlds. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and watch hook. It can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the pinstem appears to be original, but is not gold.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A gorgeous enameled clover, worked in several shades of green is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The clover is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Four-leaf clovers are generally associated with good luck, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Be mine." So whether you're in love or just feeling lucky, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 3.7 grams.

This fabulous snarling tiger is glowing with lifelike translucent enamels in multiple shades of gold, orange, brown and black. The nostrils and tongue are accented with deep red enamel. Each eye is set with an old European cut diamond and the fangs grasp a third diamond. The stones are good quality, graded at I color, SI1 clarity. The pendant is deeply three-dimensional with superb detailing. The back is also stamped with Alling & Co.’s mark. Alling was manufacturer for leading retailers such as Tiffany & Co., Bailey, Banks Biddle and C.D. Peacock.

The back is ornately engraved “EBP From the Armour Boys/Sioux City, IA/June 1907.” Our research suggests that the “Armour Boys” were the owners of the meatpacking company Armour, and that “EBP” was Elizabeth Ann Brasker Plankinton, daughter of their partner in the company. One of Armour’s largest factories opened in Sioux City in 1907.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, 1907.
• Condition: excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” wide x 1 1/8” tall (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 11.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A wonderful boxed set of six 800 silver Jugendstil (“Art Nouveau”) demitasse or chocolate spoons, each featuring a scene from different Brothers Grimm fairy tales. The tales include “Bremen Town Musicians”, “The Frog Prince”, “Little Red Riding Hood”, “Hansel & Gretel”, “Sleeping Beauty”, and “Puss in Boots”. Bruckmann, one of the most important Imperial German silversmiths of the Jugendstil period, worked with many leading designers. In this case, the designer was Hugo Cauer who created the “Märchen” (“Fairy Tales”) line in 1903/04. Bruckmann and Cauer were responsible for the most important silver pieces entered into Germany’s display at the 1900 World Exposition in Paris. The “Fairy Tale” design occasionally appears on children’s table ware such as napkin rings or drinking cups, so it’s possible the spoons were intended to do double duty as chocolate spoons, as well. The spoons are presented in their original fitted box marked with the logo of the luxury jeweler Oscar Stodt. The back of each is stamped with Stodt’s retailer’s mark, as well as Bruckmann’s maker’s mark and appropriate hallmarks for 800 silver.

• Origin: Germany, ca. 1904.
• Condition: excellent, original gilding intact.
• Dimensions: spoons, 3-3/4” long.
• Weight: 55.6 grams.

A lovely Victorian pendant/pin in a snowflake pattern. The 14K yellow mounting is set with seed pearls and sapphires around the central old mine cut diamond. The design is very elegant and delicate. The back retains the original pinstem/clasp and pendant loop. Marked 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: one pearl deficient; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 3.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .18 carat; diamond, .03 carat.

An elegant late Victorian or early Edwardian 14K yellow gold long chain with opal double-cabochon stations at regular intervals. The stations are carefully arranged so that the opals are alternately spaced whether the necklace is worn at full-length or doubled. The clasp can also be used to suspend a pendant. The opals are good quality with even play-of-color, mostly in the blue/green range with occasional bursts of orange/red. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; one opal has minor crazing to the back surface.
• Length, 52-1/2" plus the pendant clasp as a single strand; 27" as a double strand; opals, 8mm diameter.
• Weight: 16.8 grams.

An elegant pair of18K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks set with rose-cut and single-cut diamonds. The cufflinks have a classic design of whiplash curves typical of French jewelry, but the overall appearance is more akin to Russian cufflinks of the era. Indeed, the cufflinks are stamped with French import marks. The diamonds have good color and brilliance against the bloomed texture of the gold setting. The torpedo backs are connected by wired bridges.

• Origin: Continental Europe, possibly Russia, ca. 1895.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4” x 13/32”.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .72 carat
• Weight: 6.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

An elegant French 18K yellow gold 22" chain enhanced with randomly-spaced small semi-baroque pearls set at irregular lengths and finished with a bulldog swivel clip perfect for hanging interchangeable charms or pendants (as shown for illustration purposes). The pendant is being sold separately. It is item number 1405532 in our catalog. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Length: 22".
• Weight: 12.7 grams.

A very fine Edwardian sterling silver powder box with guilloche enamel in translucent ivory. The lid is decorated with a elegantly colorful painted enamel bouquet of wildflowers tied with a blue ribbon and the sides with complementary floral sprigs. The gilt interior is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks and the master silversmith's for Georg Adam Scheid. Scheid was a silversmith to the Imperial Family and was particularly known for beautiful enameled items such as boxes, compacts, parasol handles and miniature clocks. This box would make an elegant spot for jewelry or other small items.

• Origin: Austria, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 4 1/16" diameter; 1 5/8" high.
• Condition: excellent, very minor surface wear visible upon close inspection in strong raking light.

A boxed set of sterling silver demitasse spoons by Paye & Baker. The set comprises two each of three different floral themes, all worked in the same intaglio style with glossy flowers and foliage against a stippled background. Two of the spoons are decorated with a pattern of wild roses, two with morning glories and two with pansies. The edges of the stems and handles are shaped to match the patterns. The bowls are finished with matte gilding. The backs are hallmarked by Paye & Baker and are marked "Sterling". The company made only a small range of products, but their Art Nouveau motifs were expertly designed.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 4" long.
• Weight: 38.8 grams.
• Condition: spoons, excellent condition, typical light fading of gilding on bowls; box has typical discoloration and wear.

This delightful Victorian Art Nouveau pendant and pin features a four-leaf clover nestled inside a crescent moon, both set with seed pearls. The clover is centered with a .2-carat old European cut diamond. The combination of a flower and a crescent in Victorian jewelry was intended to convey the sentiment "honeymoon" and they were often a gift from a groom to his new bride. The four-leaf clover, of course, conveyed good luck. The reverse retains the original folding bail and a pin that's hidden from view, so the piece can be worn in multiple ways. The clasp is marked "10K."

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; all original
• Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat
• 4.1 grams.

A 14K gold Art Nouveau enameled violet and horseshoe pendant using the Victorian language of flowers to convey the sentiments "good luck" and "I'll always be true." The violet is centered with an old European cut diamond and the horseshoe is studded with seed pearls. The back retains the original pin and a folding, so the piece can be worn as a pin or pendant. The clasp is marked "14K."

• America, ca 1900
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8" excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat
• 4.0 grams

A wonderfully detailed mallard duck, worked in multicolored 15K gold and green enamel flies across the finger in this Edwardian stickpin conversion ring. The feathers are beautifully worked in yellow, rose and green gold as well as a touch of platinum. The shank is 14K.

• Original stickpin, circa 1900
• Excellent condition
• 13/16" x 1/2"
• Size 7
• 2.3 grams

Edwardian 14K gold crescent moon pendant necklace set with round sapphires and pearls. The sapphires have a lovely medium blue color with just a hint of violet. The pearls are slightly button-shaped and have very pretty luster. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8" wide; overall necklace length, 18"
• Condition: excellent; converted from a brooch
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .62 carat.

A generously-sized 14K gold locket featuring the image of a young woman wearing a bandeau of old mine cut diamonds in her flowing hair that extends to the edges of the locket, appearing almost as cresting waves. The interior retains the original frame insert. Marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 1 1/4" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the back has a monogram removal
• Weight: 11.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .09 carat

A wonderful Art Nouveau 14K gold ring in the form of two intertwined snakes surrounding an opal cabochon. The ornately coiled snakes are beautifully detailed. The opal has attractive play-of-color, with a preponderance of green and blue with sparks of red and orange. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

In the 19th century, snakes in jewelry symbolized eternal love. Jeweled snakes became particularly popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring for their betrothal, and remained popular throughout the century.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide tapering to 1/16"
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Weight: 3.1 grams

A rare 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the front cover depicting a Ford Model B automobile (1904-06). The headlights and the center of the grille are set with old mine cut diamonds sparkling as if truly lit up. The car is very finely detailed with excellent depth to the design, clearly showing the early right-hand drive and the fluted sides of the engine compartment. The back bears an ornate period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1905
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; a couple of pinpoint dings to the back cover hidden among the monogram
• Weight: 5.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

A stunning pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold cufflinks by Carrington, the faces designed as dolphins stylized as sea monsters. The creatures are beautifully designed with detailed scales, fins and gaping mouths. The eyes are set with G/VS1 old mine cut diamonds. The faces are joined by oval connectors sufficiently long to fit through a thick cuff. The backs are stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 7/16”
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Weight: 14.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat

An Art Nouveau 14K gold ring featuring an oval carnelian cabochon set in a marquise-shaped surround decorated with a stylized foliage pattern. The 6x8mm carnelian has very nice coloring and good translucency. Originally a stickpin, a 14K gold shank has been added.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown 5/8” wide
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 1.6 grams

A delightful pair of Art Nouveau daisy stud earrings, the petals formed from Mississippi River pearls arranged around a textured gold disc representing the flower's seed head. The freshwater pearls have attractive luster that contrasts nicely with the brightness of the gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K. These earrings would look particularly nice worn with a very similar pearl daisy pendant (Item #1402839) in our collection.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: exellent; converted from the original screwbacks
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 2.2 grams

A pretty 14K yellow gold created from an Art Nouveau stickpin. The front of the ring depicts a young maiden with a large flower tucked into her flowing hair. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 1.7 grams

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching pendant converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412579

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16"
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 4.0 grams.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this pendant converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a pearl. The conversion was accomplished with the addition of a hidden bail the back of the flower. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this pendant is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching ring converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412578.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; a tiny nick to the purple at white enamel at the center for the flower behind the pearl visible upon close inspection
• Dimensions: 1 1/8" x 1 1/8"
• Weight: 6.1 grams.

A classic Victorian honeymoon brooch in 14K yellow gold. The traditional crescent shape supports a gold violet enameled in rich shades of rose, purple and cream and accented with green veining on the petals. The flower is centered with a small ruby. In Victorian flower language, the crescent shape represented “moon” and the flower represented sweetness or “honey”, thus “honeymoon”. Pins such as this were popular gifts from grooms to their new brides. The original early safety clasp has an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: very good; a 1/16” flake on the tip of one flower petal; the pinstem is an early gold-filled replacement
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 3/4"
• Weight: 2.5 grams.

Art nouveau 14K gold and enamel circle pin in the form of stylized orchid blossoms enameled in iridescent lavender and cream. This pin is a nice example of how Art Nouveau sensibilities took a standard Victorian design=--the circle pin--and gave it a new aesthetic appeal. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set aquamarine. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent enamel in shades of blue, green and cream. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored aquamarine. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an amethyst and enameled in shades of violet (Item #1414819)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; two 1/16" enamel nicks barely visible without magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.25 grams
• Approximate Total Aquamarine Weight: .7 carat.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set amethyst. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent shades of violet, cream and green. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored amethyst. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an aquamarine and enameled in shades of blue and green (Item #1414818)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .75 carat.