Catalog (2409)

A very good pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each face in the form of an owl's head complete with bright ruby eyes. The gold is finely detailed and the rubies are natural and of high quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 6.7 grams.

An outstanding Restoration period French silver wine taster in the 18th century style typical of Lyon. With the restoration of the Bourbon monarchy, many old styles from the ancien regime once again came into fashion, and this tastevin, building on decorative elements typical of the 1770's, is a perfect example. Tastevins with snake-form handles were particularly popular. Those with a pair of snake heads that somewhat resemble bird's heads flanking a sphere are typical of silver from Lyon. The punchwork decoration of grape clusters surrounded the bowl is also a typical 18th century design. The tastevin is completely handmade and was raised on a lathe in the traditional method, as is evidenced by the pinprick in the middle of the bowl and the remnants of hammer marks. The outer rim is engraved "F. Porcheret-Billard". Stamped with 2nd standard "tete de Minverve" hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1840. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3-1/2" diameter, excluding handle. Weight: 113.4 grams.

A stunning French 18K yellow gold and diamond pansy brooch in the Art Nouveau taste. The petals are beautifully decorated in translucent enamels shading from silvery white to cream to rose. The outer ruffled edge of each petal is outlined in small rose cut diamonds. The pansy is centered by a larger rose cut diamond of unusually good color and clarity. As is typical of 19th century French jewels, the diamonds are set in silver. Each petal is cast separately and then attached to the others with a screw mechanism. The back has a replaced pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, one 1/8" area of flaking enamel visible under magnification. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 18.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.385 cts.

A fine pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of sinuously curved griffins. Mythological creatures such as griffins and dragons were a particularly popular subject matter for French jewelers of the era. The creatures are finely worked with excellent detail to the scales and other features. The chain connectors are fully hallmarked with French 18K hallmarks and with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 9.5 grams.

An outstanding pair of antique 18K yellow gold cufflinks set with diamonds and rubies in the "Japanesque" style produced by Tiffany & Co. for a very brief period following the opening of Japan to western trade in the 1850s. Pieces in this style were wildly popular and always drew from traditional Japanese natural motifs, in this case chrysanthemum blossoms. Each slightly-domed face is ornately worked in a series of overlapping petals, centering old European cut diamonds and cushion cut rubies. The prongs holding the gemstones are fashioned as tiny flower petals--an element not visible except under magnification. The diamonds are estimated at H color and VS1 clarity, while the rubies are strongly-saturated medium-dark, slightly purplish-red in color. The rubies show no signs of heat treatment and are likely Burmese in origin. The faces are joined by chain links, and the backs are marked "Tiffany & Co." in the old style. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

The chrysanthemum was a symbol reserved exclusively for the use of the Japanese emperor and his immediate family. As a further nod to the Japanesque style, Tiffany chose to use gemstones in shades of red and white--the official colors of the Meiji Imperial dynasty.

Origin: America, 1877-1883. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 11.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .172 ct; ruby, .367 ct.

A pretty Victorian fob locket, the front cover decorated with a three-dimensional image of bird tending her nest of eggs, all worked in yellow, rose and green gold. The locket is attached to a swinging bail and would originally have been worn on either a fob chain or a chatelaine, rather than as a pendant. The hinged back cover is plain and was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, back cover has a few small dings commensurate with the locket’s age. Size: overall (excluding jump ring), 1-1/4” x 1”; locket only, 3/4” x 3/4”.

A unusual brass tea caddy from the Imperial Romanov era. These boxes are much more frequently seen as rectangular shapes rather than ovals. The hinged lid is decorated with an ornately detailed appliqué of the imperial Romanov double-headed eagle. The interior is tin-lined in the traditional Russian style. The lid can be locked with a small padlock—a reminder that tea was once an expensive, luxurious commodity that had to be protected from household thieves. The interior is tin-lined as expected in a Russian brass box.

Origin: Russia, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no dings, all original. Size: 5-3/16" x 3-7/8" x 2-13/16" high.

A wonderful Victorian 18K gold acrostic gemstone brooch the shape of an artist's palette. The bright dabs of paint are indicated by a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond, the first letters of which spell out the sentiment "Regard". The gems are The design of the pin also includes paint brushes, a drafting instrument, and a hand rest, all tied together with a rag. The gold surfaces are enhanced with a softly bloomed "Russian finish" that was popular in the last decades of the 19th century. Details such as the bindings on the brushes, the lead in the drafting pencil and the pad of the hand rest are detailed in platinum. The gemstones are of fine quality, with bright color. This piece has great wit and the workmanship and detailing are superb. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Acrostic jewelry first became popular in early 19th century France and remained popular for decades. Gemstones were used to spell sentiments such as "regard", names, important dates, etc. Rings are, by far, the most common pieces of acrostic jewelry. Brooches are quite uncommon.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1895. Weight: 8.8 grams. Size: 2-5/8" x 3/4".

A superb early Edwardian “style guirlande” platinum, gold, diamond, opal and pearl necklace. The fine platinum chain suspends a platinum and gold pendant centering a beautiful oval opal surrounded by an ornate swagged garland of diamonds punctuated with creamy natural pearls. The opal has strong and even play-of-color with strong flashes of bright green, a bit of blue and pale orange. The single cut and old European diamonds have beautiful color (F-H) and have clarity ranging from SI1 to I1. The center drop is articulated in three places, allowing lots of movement when being worn. The quality of workmanship is very fine, with completely hand-sawed openwork behind the stones, fine millegraining, and precise placement of stones. The back has a heavily worn maker’s mark, but the partial serial number would indicate a quality maker. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original except the spring clasp which is 14K white gold instead of platinum. Size: necklace, 18-3/16” long; pendant, 2-7/8”W x 2-1/4”L. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 1.01 cts; diamond, 1.61 cts.

Fine Bohemian green-to-clear cut glass Biedermeier footed spa beaker ("spaglas") featuring five panels, each beautifully engraved with Classical symbols. Beakers of this sort originated in the great spa towns of Bohemia, where they were used to take the waters. Wealthy visitors often brought back a goblet as a souvenir of their restorative stay at the spa. This example is packed with finely-engraved symbols of all sorts--an anchor symbolizing hope; a cornucopia symbolizing prosperity; a swan symbolizing erotic love; a lyre symbolizing harmony; and the serpent of Epidaurus drinking from the bowl of Hygeia symbolizing health. The stem is panel cut, while the foot is simply decorated with printies and notches that match the cut vesicas on the sides.

Origin: Bohemia, ca. 1830. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Size: 6-1/4" tall.

A rare enameled beaker made as a souvenir of the 1896 coronation of Imperial Russia’s last monarchs, Czar Nicholas II and Czarina Alexandra Feodorovna. One side of the beaker features the Imperial double-headed eagle and the reverse shows the Imperial cipher. The remainder of the body is decorated with traditional Russian strapwork. The beakers were to be given away to the public on the Khodinka field in Moscow. When the gates were opened, there was a great rush to get to the cups, and hundreds of people were trampled to death. Shortly after, the cup became known as the “Blood Cup” or “Cup of Sorrows”. The incident was thought at the time to be a bad omen for the future of the Imperial couple—an estimation that proved unfortunately correct. These beakers are often in very bad condition, but this one is excellent, with just a small enamel nick on the rim, light rust spots in the interior bottom and light wear to the gilding on the rim.

Origin: Russia, 1896. Size: 4-1/8” tall.

A nice 19th century Mexican folk retablo on tin depicting San José. In his role as the husband and protector of the Virgin Mary, Saint Joseph became one of the more popular retablo subjects, representing an estimated 7% of 19th century pieces. According to the Apocrypha, Mary’s suitors left their staffs in the courtyard of her home overnight, and by the next morning, Joseph’s has sprouted blossoms, indicating he was God’s choice as her husband. The lily-covered staff became a primary attribute of Saint Joseph, and in this retablo it is shown just behind the infant Jesus. The saint is dressed in his traditional colors of green and yellow, the colors of fertility, new life and marriage. This retablo has a pleasant, particularly “folky” feel to it because of the outlining treatment of the fingers and Jesus’ unique garment that looks almost like a modern footed pajama.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1880. Condition: very good, normal bending at corners and normal moderately-light paint loss. Size: 9-7/8” x 13-3/8”.

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the square faces highlighted with a hammered texture and star-set with very good quality antique cushion-cut diamonds, sapphires and rubies. One pair is diamond and ruby and the other is diamond and sapphire. The stones show no indications of heat treatment. The ruby and sapphire are most likely from Burma and Ceylon, respectively. The use of red, white and blue stones was particularly popular around the time of the American Centennial celebration in 1876. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 6.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 ct; ruby, .05 ct; sapphire, .05 ct.

A fine mid-19th century French silver tastevin (wine taster), the base inset with an 1810 Italian silver coin from the reign of Emperor Napoleon I as King of Italy. The bottom edge of the bowl is decorated with curved, scalloped "godrons" which were intended to reflect light through white wine to judge clarity. This tastevin does not have the "cupules" ("ovoides") specifically intended to deepen the color of red wines. The sides are decorated with grapevines and clusters of fruit. The handle is formed as a coiled serpent--as style particularly popular in Burgundy. The whole is raised on a circular ropetwist foot. Napoleonic coins are rarely seen in tastevins, and this piece probably dates to the Second Empire when Napoleonic items were viewed with some nostalgia. Fully hallmarked.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3" diameter excluding handle. Weight: 72.3 grams.

Fine Napoleon III 18K yellow gold pansy brooch, the upper large petals accented with a lacy pierced floral border and the lower petals with a row of alternating rose cut diamonds and antique cushion cut rubies. The gold surfaces have a matte finish that mimics the velvety texture of pansy blossoms. Delicate engraving brings out the veining on the lower petals. The diamonds and rubies are of fine color. In the Romantic language of flowers, the pansy was used to symbolize remembrance (the French word for pansy is the same as the word for thought). The diamond and ruby border is faintly heart-shaped, perhaps adding another layer of secret meaning. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp fully stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-7/32". Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .37 ct; ruby, .72 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a pearl-studded horseshoe enclosing a beautifully-enameled violet. The petals are worked in realistic shades of purple fading to pinkish-cream at the centers and the flower is accented with a bright green leaf. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet was used to symbolize faithfulness. Combined with a horseshoe for good luck, a pin of this sort almost certainly would have served as a going-away gift. The original clasp is stamped 14K and has Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 13/16" x 3/4". Weight: 3.3 gr.

A handsome mid-Victorian Scottish agate pendant featuring pear-shaped cabochons of bloodstone ("heliotrope") and carnelian in a fine gold setting. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with fiolate engraving. Queen Victoria personally led the fashion for all things Scottish. Most jewels were set in silver; those set in gold were generally made in London using Scottish stones. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: Scotland/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, the piece was originally a brooch and the pinstem and clasp were removed and a bail added for wear as a pendant. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 11.1 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold floral pendant. The flowers are represented by small rose cut diamonds and a round brilliant ruby. The gold foliage is finely engraved in a naturalistic pattern. The brooch suspends a drop-shaped natural pearl with fine luster. The ruby, though small, has fine red color and excellent clarity. The pendant is suspended from its bale with a double chain. Fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/32” wide; 1-3/8” long (not including chain); 2-1/4” long (including chain). Weight: 4.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .16 ct; diamond, .10 ct.