Catalog (2407)

A handsome pair of Art Deco multistone cufflinks, the emerald cut green tourmaline, amethyst, yellow citrine and orange citrine simply set in yellow gold bezels. The stones have rich, even coloring, excellent brilliance and very good clarity. The faces and removable connectors are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark "MV in a hexagon" and "585" for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 7/16". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 6.28 cts; amethyst, 6.48 cts; citrine, 9.8 cts.

An elegant small 14K gold enameled flower pin featuring a pair of white four-leaf clovers with green veining. Each flower is centered with a seed pearl. During the Victorian era, flowers were used to symbolize specific sentiments, and the white clover meant “think of me.” Small pins such as this were often given as presents to new brides and are sometimes called honeymoon pins. The back of the pin is stamped with Hammerman’s mark and 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1946. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 2.4 grams.

A very nice cut crystal cocktail shaker in amethyst overlay. The design is a classic pattern of angular mitres emanating from oval printies. These shakers were almost always acid-signed “Japan” on the base, but someone scratched out the signature on this one. Cut glass in the Art Deco style was one of the industries established in Japan during the occupation at the end of World War II. The products were of fine quality and easily competed with European glass from the era. This shaker is complete with its original chrome-plated top. These shakers were always acid-signed “Japan” on the base, but someone scratched out the signature on this shaker.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1947. Condition: excellent; no chips, cracks or dings. Dimensions: 10-3/4” tall.

A classic mid-century porcelain water jug advertising Ricard anisette. In the south of France, tradition dictates that a pitcher of water should be served alongside anise-flavored aperitifs to dilute the drink. Makers such as Ricard and Pernod provided advertising pitchers to local bars and cafes to increase their sales. The squared-off shape is less common than the traditional globe-shaped pitcher, and only became popular after World War II. This is a miniature version, about half as tall as usual, and was obviously intended for someone who drinks alone! It’s the only miniature we’ve found after many years.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 2-15/16” tall.

A vintage sterling silver napkin ring, the front decorated with three bears, probably an allusion to the children's story, "Goldilocks and the Three Bears." The back is engraved "Tony" and the interior is stamped "Sterling".

America, ca. 1940. Condition: very good, light wear from polishing, no dings. Weight: 23.4 gr.

A handsome Art Deco 14K yellow gold man's ring, the stepped crown featuring a square synthetic sapphire in a millegrained collet seeeting flanked on either side by a round diamond. The diamond are graded as I/SI2. The sapphire has bright blue coloring and very good saturation. Men's rings from this period nearly always used synthetic sapphires mixed with diamonds. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 10-1/2. Weight: 6.0 grams Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.0 ct; diamond, .2 ct.

A fine pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces shaped as a convex curve of gold flanked on either side by square cut natural rubies. The superbly-matched rubies have excellent color and clarity, with no indications of heat or other treatment. The nature of the microscopic inclusions suggests Burma as the region of origin. We have seen a duplicate pair of these cufflinks, except set with sapphires, that were signed "Cartier NY". Cartier's New York store retailed jewelry made by various manufacturers such as Larter and Krementz. Sometimes they were marked with Cartier's retailer mark and sometimes not. Stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 3/4". Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.92 cts.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from faceted rhodolite garnets of unusually large size centering old European cut diamonds. The purplish-red hue of the garnets contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting and the white diamonds (G, VS2). The backs are finished with toggles. The connectors are stamped with French marks for 18K gold and with the goldsmith's mark (entered in 1913) for the Parisian jeweler Leon Favrin.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: rhodolite, 12.66 cts; diamond, .10 ct.

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

A 14K white gold ring set with a .77-carat round brilliant-cut diamond (I color, SI2 clarity, VG cut) surrounded by a horseshoe motif set with .25 carats of rose cut diamonds over a pierced gallery. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: featured stone, .77 ct; mine cuts, .25 ct.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces simply set with round brilliant cut citrines. The prongs holding the stones are reeded for an added a touch of elegance. The citrines have good, deep lemon color with just a hint of orange, have excellent brilliance, and are well-matched. Despite the simplicity of the design, the cufflinks are heavy and feel substantial when being worn. They’re particularly attractive on a blue cuff. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2†diameter. Weight: 10.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.44 cts.

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight: 53.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 24.3 cts.

A interesting Art Deco chrome wine bottle caddy in the form of a sled. The runners ensure that the caddy can be pushed easily across a table surface. The sides of the sleigh are decorated in a hammered and pierced pattern. This caddy can be used any time of year, but would be particularly nice on the Holiday table!

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 10" long, 3-5/8" wide, 5-5/8" tall.

An exceptionally fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet by Pierre Baltensperger. Each of the plaques represents a different flower, depicted in semi-abstract ways. Among the flowers are daisies, cyclamens, fuschias, morning glories and honeysuckle. Baltensperger was founded in 1878 by Walter Baltensperger, who quickly established the firm’s luxury reputation. His grandson Pierre Baltensperger assumed the lead in 1950. Pierre, born in 1927, became one of Switzerland’s most important sculptors and visual artists, in addition to his work with jewelry. This design, though similar in some respects to Georg Jensen’s work from the 1920s, likely dates to the late 1940s. The clasp is signed “Baltensperger” and has 18K marks and inventory numbers.

Origin: Zurich, Switzerland, ca. 1947. Dimensions: 5/8” x 7-5/8”. Weight: 40.0 gr.

A very uncommon graduated sterling silver handled jigger by one of Mexico’s most important Art Deco and modernist silversmiths, Juvento Lopez Reyes. He opened his studio, Plateria del Recreo in 1935, making most streamlined hollowware items in the Art Deco and modernist taste. The base is fully stamped with mark used by Reyes in the 1930s and 40s. The stepped sides of the jigger mark off .5, 1, 1.5 and 2-oz levels.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, except for one very minor ding. Dimensions: 2-1/2” tall. Weight: 54.4 grams.

A fine Art Deco sterling silver pendant necklace by famed illustrator and jewelry designer McClelland Barclay. The square pendant shows a water lily and lily pad along with several buds in a stylized form. The pendant is suspended from its original silver chain. The reverse is marked "Sterling Silver" and is signed "McClelland Barclay".

Barclay was a noted illustrator, famous for his pin-up style advertisements for General Motors and for Hollywood movies. At the onset of World War II, he volunteered to join the Navy and painted many of the most important recruiting and propaganda images. In 1942, he started designing silver jewelry. He was stationed on ships in the South Pacific and sent his designs via mail to the manufacturing company, Rice-Weiner. He was killed when his ship was torpedoed in 1943.

Origin: America, 1942-43. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: pendant, 2" x 2-1/4"; chain length, 24-1/2". Weight: 35.5 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is the classic version with the crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a plain border. The use of a rose cut diamond and the Augis signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/8” (from top of bail). Weight: 1.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .04 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the "etrier" style originally popularized by Cartier. The design was meant to suggest a horsebit. When worn, only the circles are visible. The circles are finished with a twisted rope design. Most cufflinks of this style were made by French jewelers, and it is unusual to find an American pair in 14K gold. Stamped with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet in the Edwardian style, set with a row of fifteen well-matched oval brilliant cut blue sapphires in graduated sizes, flanked at either end with small rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have very nice medium-tone violetish-blue coloring with very good clarity. There are no indications of heat treatment. The bracelet is stamped with Italian hallmarks in use 1944-1968.

Origin: Alessandria, Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/32" wide; 6-1/2" circumference. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphhire, 4.35 cts; diamond, .10 ct. Weight: 17.6 gr.

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the "mors de filet" or "snaffle" design originally created for Hermès by Gaetan de Percin. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a diamond-cut design. De Percin's design was very popular and served as the basis for a number of closely related designs. These cufflinks are stamped with French 18K marks, an unidentified goldsmith’s mark and the notation for "breveté", indicating that the design was patented.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 5/8 x 11/32". Weight: 12.7 gr.

An elegant pair of 19K yellow gold "Contas de Viana" earclips. The domes are covered with concentric circles of ropetwist appliques in the ancient Etruscan style. The clips are stamped with older Portuguese hallmarks for 19K.

Viana beads were modeled on ancient Etruscan jewels found in archaeological sites in Portugal. The circular patterns of filigree and granulation were thought to resemble the eyes of a partridge, bringing luck and protection. A Portuguese girl received her first bead from her godmother at birth. Whenever the family could afford it, another bead was added to the collection with the goal being to create a complete necklace—a circle of protection and good luck—in time for her marriage.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 9.9 grams.

A striking modernist 14K yellow gold link bracelet, with enlaced circular and oval links. The interplay of shapes creates a very chic look. It can be worn alone or with a collection of charms. The reverse is stamped for 14K gold and has an indistinct maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7-3/4" long; 5/8" wide. Weight: 25.2 grams.

A particularly fine gentleman’s ring in 14K yellow gold, the top set with alternating round cut rubies and brilliant round cut diamonds in star settings. Gypsy-set rings were first popular in the Victorian era, but reappeared in the 1930s and 40s, sometimes with the addition of star settings. The rubies are natural, without evidence of treatment, and are color-graded as medium dark slightly brownish strongly purplish-red (stpR 6/2) and clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are H/VS1. The ring has substantial weight and is comfortable to wear. The inside of the shank is marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/16” wide. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .60 ct; ruby, .70 ct.

Extraordinary patriotic World War II era “V for Victory” brooch in 14K yellow gold set with sapphires and pearls. Victory sentiments were fashionable in costume jewelry, but fine jewelry examples are extremely scarce. This example is convertible into a propeller-shaped bar pin, favored by the wives and mothers of men in the Air Corps. The pin is set with blue sapphire (likely Montana origin), including a blue-to-purple color change sapphire at the hinge. The pinstem and clasp could be removed for conversion to a V-shaped or bar-shaped pendant. Stamped with an unknown maker's mark "A14K" and "Pat Pend".

Origin: America, 1940-45. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-13/16” x 1-13/16” in the “V” formation; 3-1/2” x 1/4" in bar formation. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.81 carats.

A heavy pair of vintage 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks. Each round face is decorated with a band of opaque royal blue enamel surrounding a collet-set round brilliant cut diamond. The diamonds are about I/J color and are SI1 clarity. The faces are finished with pierced gallery sides. The quality of workmanship is excellent. The bar connectors are marked “750” and have a worn maker’s mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage

Size: 5/8” diameter

Weight: 14.5 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 ct.

A brilliant red transparent lucite jewelry box or dresser box, the hinged lid inset with a sterling silver medallion illustrating a pair of lovebirds. The interior of the lid has a small round mirror. The medallion is stamped "Sterling" and has a design patent number registered in 1945.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 4-3/4" x 3-15/16" x 1-3/4"

Art Deco 18K gold and sapphire stirrup cufflinks in the style first popularized by Cartier. The heavy mesh sides are accented with two blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons on each cufflink. Each is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• France, ca. 1950
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions:13/16" x 1-3/32"
• Weight: 16.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 carat

A handsome pair of 14k yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with Essex crystals depicting dogs (definitely terriers, and most likely fox terriers). The dogs are colorfully painted on the reverse-carved crystal and set against mother of pearl backgrounds. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. The toggles are stamped “14K” and have a patent number, indicating the patent was still active when the cufflinks were made.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: 17/32” (14 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 7.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no scratches or moisture damage.

A very unusual pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, one end the traditional ball shape and the other in a geometric “rooftop” shape. Louis Tamis & Sons opened in 1909 and quickly became the leading American maker of gold boxes and other luxury objects. In the 1930s, the company manufactured for Paul Flato. By mid-century, it had become on of New York’s most exclusive manufacturing jewelers, creating commissioned pieces for Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Each cufflink is stamped “14K” and bears Tamis’ hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: “rooftop” faces, 1/2” x 1/2”; ball faces, 3/8” diam.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A very handsome pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces featuring rectangular-cut citrines. Each rectangular face is intricately engraved with a sunburst motif radiating out from the gemstones, as if the stones were emanating light. The citrines are very high quality, with an intense amber-orange color very close to topaz. Interestingly, one corner of each face is turned dog-eared, showing a plain surface. The faces are connected with chains to plain baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Size: 29/32" x 19/32".
• Weight: 9.5 gr.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.0 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The medium-large size is perfect for either a substantial chain or to wear as a bracelet charm. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 7/8” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 6.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, .07 carat.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of a chrome lyre with red bakelite-topped cocktail picks forming the instrument’s strings. The whole is set on a mahogany base. Sets such as this were used on bar and café counters to serve cocktail garnishes, canapés or even escargot.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 4-3/8” x 1-9/16” x 5”.

A vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant/charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold. The pendant is ideal for monogramming, but there is no evidence of any previous engraving.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .6 carat; diamond, .4 carat.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring collet-set rectangular garnet plaques in a deep wine red shade. The faces are connected by chains to classic baton backs. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 11/16" (14x18mm).
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.

A wonderful French Art Deco cocktail pick set featuring a Scottie dog (Scottish terrier) carved from Indonesian Macassar ebony. The severely linear carving of the dog is nicely accented by the natural markings of the wood. The dog has inlaid white eyes. The set is completed with eleven cocktail picks topped with colorful orbs. This set could certainly be used for olives or cherries in a cocktail, but could also be used as food picks for hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Condition: excellent; no cracking to wood; one blue pick missing.
• Dimensions: 5-1/2" x 3-1/8" x 3-1/2" tall.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, each face enhanced with “quilted” engraving studded with round brilliant cut diamonds and sapphires. Cufflinks in this design are often marked “Tiffany & Co.” They were made by one of the Newark jewelers such as Larter for retail at Tiffany’s New York store. They always have generous weight and use high-quality gemstones. Sometimes, as in this case, they are marked only “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2”.
• Weight: 11.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .18 carat; sapphire, .80 carat.