Catalog (2409)

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks set with calibre-cut blue sapphires designed by the Russian émigré jeweler Olga Tritt for sale at her Park Avenue boutique in New York. The arches of the cufflinks are set with rows calibre-cut intensely-colored blue sapphires.

Tritt specialized in antique jewelry, but supplemented her selection with an array of her own luxury designs, mostly made in France to her specifications. Her client roster included many luminaries, including the Duchess of Windsor. These cufflinks are unsigned, but the particular elongated figure-8 style of the hinged connectors was unique to Tritt. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, circa 1935
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16" (20 x 24 mm)
• Weight: 14.9 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.03 carats

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.

A wonderfully detailed 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a spaniel. The shape of the dog’s head and the amount of fur suggests that the pin represents a Springer or English Cocker spaniel. The pin has substantial weight. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, circa 1935.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” x 3/4”.
• Weight: 6.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.

An attractive pair of Retro 14K yellow gold dangle earrings fashioned as circles of gold balls centering round brilliant cut amethysts. The amethysts have rich deep coloring and excellent clarity. The earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted to wires. The new look is much more wearable and provides tons of sparkly movement!

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1 3/8" long from top of wires.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.76 carats.
• Condition: Very good; a couple of small dings on the back sides.

A noble poodle stands encircled in a ring of gold in this Art Deco period French 18K gold charm or pendant. The dog’s stylized design echoes the ribbed and twisted rope motifs along the edges. The pendant retains the original matching jump ring. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” wide; 1 1/8” height (including jump ring).
• Weight: 4.8 grams.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

This lovely enameled pansy, originally a screwback earring, has been converted to a colorful ring with the addition of sterling silver shank. The pansy is enameled in bright shades of purple and yellow. The enamel has a slight iridescent effect and is translucent so the engraved silver shines through for added texture. In the Victorian language of flowers, the pansy generally conveyed the meaning, “Think of me.” Purple and yellow pansies more specifically meant, “Forget me not.” The back is marked “Sterling.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1930.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 3/4 x 3/4".
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 3.8 grams.

A lovely pair of 10K yellow gold drop earrings decorated with a golden bows centered with round brilliant cut blue zircons. The gems have deep coloring and show nicely in a small size. These Retro earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted for pierced ears. The earrings have nice movement and could be worn with either casual or cocktail attire. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, circa 1935.
• Excellent condition.
• 9/16" wide; 1-1/4" long from top of wire.
Weight: 3.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Zircon Weight: 1.28 carats.

A striking 14K yellow gold ring, the medallion depicting a yachting scene in engine-turned engraving of extraordinary quality. The scene depicts a yacht in the foreground with a more distant boat in the background. The design is completed with waves, seagulls and a lighthouse atop a rocky cliff. Originally an Edwardian blazer button, our jeweler added a 14K gold shank to make a wonderful seafaring ring. The back is stamped "14K" and has an unidetified American maker's mark.

• America, ca. 1910.
• Excellent condition, sharp detail.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" diameter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 4.3 grams.

An imposing, yet very wearable Retro ring featuring a large, deeply colored honey-gold rectangular step-cut citrine flanked by lines of calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) between lines of bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. The color contrast of the stones is quite striking and the size is imposing without being overdone. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 7/8".
• Finger Size: 7-1/2.
• Weight: 9.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 13.12 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

A classic figural sterling silver thimble jigger by Thomae & Co. The rim is engraved "Only A Thimble Full." The interior retains some of its original gilding. Several companies made variations of this jigger, but those by Thomae are among the best due to their superior weight and workmanship.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms. Size: 2" tall. Weight: 36.3 grams.

A classic figural sterling silver thimble jigger by Thomae & Co. The rim is engraved "Only A Thimble Full." The interior retains a small amount of its original gilding. Several companies made variations of this jigger, but those by Thomae are among the best due to their superior weight and workmanship. Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms. Size: 2" tall. Weight: 41.4 grams.

A vintage sterling silver figural jigger in the shape of a thimble. The rim is engraved "Only A Thimble Full." The interior is gilt. The bottom is hallmarked by the Webster Silver Co. Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, some gilding intact, no dings. Size: 1-5/8" tall. Weight: 18.1 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed A.A., is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is perfect for either a delicate chain or to wear as a charm on a bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is particularly nice for wear as a pendant from a delicate chain. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form a wishing well. A water bucket hangs from the winch and six red bakelite-topped cocktail picks are stored in the well itself. The The whole is set on a Macassar ebony base. Sets such as this were used on bar and café counters to serve cocktail garnishes, canapés or even escargot.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Condition: good; typical wear to bakelite spheres; no rust; one metal stem seems to have been cut off just above the bakelite "cherr".
• Dimensions: 5-3/4” tall.

A fine 19K yellow gold folding ball locket with a capacity for four images. The exterior is decorated with a stippled checkerboard pattern with a belt on either side that holds the sphere closed. When the belts are unlatched, the locket opens accordian-style to reveal the inner frames. These lockets have become increasingly difficult to find. The locket is stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for .800 (19.2K) gold.

• Origin: Porto, Portugal, ca. 1938.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" diameter.
• Weight: 16.5 grams.