Catalog (2428)

An exquisite Art Nouveau pendant/brooch in 18K gold with diamonds, pearls, and enamel. A lily pad, enameled in translucent shades of green, yellow, and rose centers the brooch, and is surrounded by whiplash curves of 95 round diamonds. A large diamond-set lily blossom appears at the top of the frame. All the diamond areas are set in silver-topped gold, as was the custom in French jewels of the period. The design is accented with pearls, including a pearl drop at the bottom. The piece has a brooch attachment, but also has a pair of small bails so it can be worn as a pendant. The brooch fitting, where the original French hallmarks would have been, has been replaced. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: France, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, brooch fitting replaced, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 2-3/16” (36 x 55 mm)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.9 carats

A vintage sterling silver figural jigger by Gorham, the sides marked off with enameled stoplights in green, yellow and red, meant to signify “go,” “caution,” and “stop.” Each light corresponds to the 1, 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 ounce markings on the jigger’s bottom. The bottom is hallmarked by Gorham.

Origin: America, ca. 1950

Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms

Dimensions: 2-7/16” tall

Weight: 53.1 grams

A vintage sterling silver figural jigger by Gorham, the sides marked off with enameled stoplights in green, yellow and red, meant to signify “go,” “caution,” and “stop.” Each light corresponds to the 1, 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 ounce markings on the jigger’s bottom. The bottom is hallmarked by Gorham.

Origin: America, ca. 1950

Condition: excellent, a pinpoint ding under the bottom edge visible only when upside down and a few tiny pinpoints on the upper rim

Dimensions: 2-7/16” tall

Weight: 53.5 grams

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings in Keiselstein-Cord’s timeless “Rope Twist” design. These earrings were produced in at least two sizes, these being the. The surface is bloomed to create the semi-matte finish characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings are fully marked and dated for 1982, making this among his earliest designs.

• Germany, 1982
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (22 x 22 mm)
• Weight: 35.5 grams

Two classical satyr masks peer out from the sides of this Art Nouveau watch fob pendant. Each snarling face is surrounded by whiplash curls of gold that rise to the top of the fob. The bottom surface is engraved with a period “JEM” monogram. The gold surface has soft matte bloomed texture characteristic of the period. The jump ring is original. Stamped “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 5/8” x 1-1/2”
• Weight: 3.9 grams

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. Rather than the typical “perles,” "coupules," and fluted “godrons”, the bowl is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometimes seen in tastevins made by Marc Parrod, one of the most influential makers of tastevins in the early 20th century. The handle is in the traditional form of two entwined duck-headed snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, thought to represent the snake and apple from the Garden of Evil, thus reminding drinkers of temptation and sin. The tastevin is fully hallmarked and has an illegible maker’s mark, possibly Parrod's.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 3-5/16” x 4-1/4” x 15/16”
• Weight: 55.3 grams

Rare vintage sterling silver figural jigger in the form of wing-handled fire bucket. The side is engraved “Fire Water.” Figural jiggers gained popularity in the Art Deco era. The bottom is marked “Lunt Sterling 15”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Dimensions: 2” tall to rim, 2-3/4” to top of handle
• Weight: 34.6 grams

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the ROUND design by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Peretti’s designs transform even the simplest geometric shapes into beautiful and original jewelry. The round shapes are adorned only with an off-center round “dent” that flattens the sphere. The eassings can be dressed up or down for wear with nearly any outfit. The backs are omega clips with posts. The earrings are signed by Peretti and Tiffany, and are presented in their original dark blue Tiffany box. Tiffany recently brought back this design and the earrings retail for $3200.

• Origin: America, ca 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” (24mm) diameter
• Weight: 16.5 grams

An elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond 5-piece dress set from the “Vannerie” collection by Tiffany & Co. The double-faced cufflinks and studs are worked in an open basketweave pattern into a slightly domed shape. The larger cufflinks faces and the studs are centered with bezel-set brilliant round diamonds (F/VVS2). Each piece in the set if fully marked by Tiffany. The cufflinks are marked “1995” and the studs “1996.” This design is no longer in production. The set is presented in its original dark blue fitted Tiffany box and with the original light blue paperboard outer box.

• Origin: America, 1995/96
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: large cufflink faces, 11/16” x 11/16”; studs, 3/8” x 3/8”
• Weight: 26.75 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .60 carat

French Silver Louis XVIII Burgundian Style Wine Taster Tastevin An unusually heavy first standard (950/1000 pure silver) French tastevin decorated in the classic Burgundian style with punchwork grape clusters and a coiled snake handle. The grapevines are also accented with engraved flowers. The bottom has the center pinpoint found in tastevins from this period and is finished simply with a ring or shallow godrons around the edge to help reflect light through the wine. The snake is engraved with scales and has an unusual arrow-shaped tail. The rim is engraved “A. Chantal” for the original owner. The tastevin has the “tête medecin” mark for silver and the silversmith’s mark for Charles-Marie Guidée (Paris).

• Origin: France, 1819-1838
• Condition: very good, a few small flat areas from 200 years of use
• Dimensions: 3-5/8” x 4-3/4” x 1-5/16”
• Weight: 121.2 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by acclaimed jewelry designer Barry Kieselstein-Cord. The earrings are designed as rectangular plaques centering slightly domed centers surrounded by beaded borders. The surfaces have a hand-finished look and are bloomed for the slightly matte texture characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings have substantial weight. The backs are fully signed and are dated 1986.

• Origin: America, 1986
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 15.5 grams

A fine Retro brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with diamonds and blue sapphires. The brooch is shaped as a stylized bow when worn vertically or a comet when worn sideways. The gold surfaces are pierced to lighten the overall effect. The center is set with a cluster of round brilliant and single-cut diamonds (J/SI1) surrounded by blue sapphires of slightly violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The back is marked 14K and also has a mark for an unidentified maker.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-5/16" x 1-7/8"
• Weight: 18.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A classic second standard (800/1000 pure) silver tastevin from the Loire Valley of France. The origins of tastevins can often be identified by the tastevin’s shape. In this case, the bowl is rather shallow and completely without decoration. The handle is formed in the shape of a thin, curvy snake, but is worked without extra decoration such as scales or details to the head. This example is rather early, as is evidenced by signs of hand hammering and the small lathe mark in the middle of the bowl. The bottom is stamped with the original owner’s name, P. Roux. These classic tastevins from the Loire Valley are charming for their simplicity. Stamped with French silver marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: Loire Valley, France, ca. 1840
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 2-7/8” diameter (excluding handle)
• Weight: 29.9 grams

A very good first standard (950/1000 pure) silver small-size tastevin by the highly regarded Dijon silversmith Marc Parrod. This example retains the classic round shape with a convex bottom, but the usual "godrons" and "cupules" are replaced by repoussé grape clusters alternating with "cupules". Each grape cluster is accented with stylized vines. Parrod was particularly noted for this unique variation. The handle is in the traditional form of two snakes grasping an apple, alluding to the the Garden of Eden snake and reminding the drinker of temptation. These smaller tastevins are less common than the larger ones. Smaller tastevins from the Bordeaux region were often used for tasting Cognac, so perhaps the smaller Burgundian versions were used for some other spirit, as well as wine. The bottom and handle are stamped with first-standard silver marks and with Parrod's mark.

• Origin: Dijon, France, ca. 1903-1944
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” diameter (excluding handle)
• Weight: 24.6 grams

A very good first standard (950/1000 pure) silver small-size tastevin by the highly regarded Dijon silversmith Marc Parrod. This example retains the classic round shape with a convex bottom, but the usual "godrons" and "cupules" gare replaced by repoussé grape clusters alternating with raised "perles". Each grape cluster is accented with stylized vines. Parrod was particularly noted for this unique variation. The handle is in a rather unusual shape slightly suggestive of the double snake handles sometimes found on tastevins from the Bourgogne region. These smaller tastevins are less common than the larger ones. Smaller tastevins from the Bordeaux region were often used for tasting Cognac, so perhaps the smaller Burgundian versions were used for some other spirit, as well as wine. The bottom and handle are stamped with first-standard silver marks and with Parrod's mark.

• Origin: Dijon, France, ca. 1903-1944
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” diameter (excluding handle)
• Weight: 25.8 grams

A fine pair of French 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces decorated with champleve and en plein opaque red and black enamels. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1925
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: faces, 19/32" x 13/32"

A lovely, and rather heavy Art Nouveau 18K gold watch pin decorated with finely cast and engraved fuchsia blossoms and leaves. Even the overall inverted teardrop shape of the pin is reminiscent of the drooping profile of a fuschia. In Victorian flower language, the fuschia represented "good taste." Pin retains the original clasp and watch hook. It could also be worn as a pendant with the addition of a couple of hidden loops to the back that could be attached to a split chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-1/16"
• Weight: 5.7 grams

An interesting 10K Victorian pin in the form of a mythological creature coiled around a flame-like pillar. The creature appears to be an Ophis, a winged serpent from Greek mythology said to guard the myrrh fields of ancient Arabia. The monster grasps a seed pearl in it's jaws. The surfaces have a semi-matte bloomed finish. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 2.6 grams

An elegant pair of Retro 18K yellow gold earrings shaped as bows. Each of the dangling ribbons suspends an old European cut diamond. The diamonds are graded J color and I1 clarity. These earrings would look just as good with jeans as they would a cocktail dress. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" x 9/16"
• Weight: 7.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat

A stunning pair of 18K yellow and white gold earrings by Faraone in cooperation with Tiffany & Co. The yellow gold half-hoops are accented with white gold "stems" that burst open flowers set with marquise cut rubies. The rubies have fine slightly purplish-red color saturation. Intact inclusions indicate that the rubies are unheated. Faraone was one of the oldest jewelers in Italy, serving as court jeweler to the Royal household and to luminaries such as Maria Callas. The Settepasse family, Faraone's owners, joined forces with Tiffany in 1960 to manage Tiffany's European expansion. The companies jointly owned two boutiques in Milan and Florence. The earrings are signed by both Faraone and Tiffany, are marked for 18K gold, and have English import marks for 1990.

• Origin: Italy, 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 15/16"; width, 1/2"
• Weight: 19.5 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.0 carat

An elegant Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold negligee pendant necklace, the old mine cut diamond drops formed as pansies. Pendant necklaces of this type, called negligees (from the French word for "careless"), were so called because of their assymetry. The subtle pansy design is achieved by combining three larger diamonds at the top of each cluster to represent larger petals, and two smaller petals at the bottoms. The knife edge bars suspending the clusters keeps the focus on the stones and create wonderful movement. The old mine cut diamonds (J/K color; SI1 clarity) have excellent fire for antique stones. The clasp and the pendant are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: pendant length, 1-5/8"; chain length, 17-3/8"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats.

A lovely 14K gold pendant necklace featuring a colorfully enameled violet blossom centered with a seed pearl and suspending a freshwater pearl. The flower petals and leaves are enhanced with translucent enamels in shades of purple, green, yellow and burgundy. In Victorian flower symbology, the violet represented "modesty." The pendant is suspended from its original chain, marked 14K on the clasp. The pendant is unmarked, but tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: pendant, 3/8" x 15/16"; chain length, 16"
• Weight: 6.0 grams.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

An elegant pair of 18K gold earrings featuring large cultured mabe pearls surrounded by borders of brilliant round cut diamonds (E/F color; VVS2 clarity) and square cut blue sapphires of similar fine quality. The pearls have fine creamy body color with rose overtones and a high luster. Jewels by Spark were retailed by Neiman Marcus and other luxury purveyors. The original posts were removed for wear only with the omega clips, but could easily be replaced. The backs are marked "18" and are signed "Spark."

• Origin: America, ca 1980
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 13/16"
• Weight: 21.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 carats; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A very fine 18K gold watch pin depicting a mythological griffin grasping a pearl in its mouth. The back-swept wings are bordered with rose cut diamonds set in silver. The detailing for the feathers and scales is superb, and even the reverse is realistically engraved. The design is deeply three-dimensional. Mythological subjects were particularly popular in at the beginning of the Art Nouveau period. The reverse is stamped with an 18K hallmark. The back also retains the original watch hook, clasp and pinstem. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: Europe, ca 1880
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" diameter
• Weight: 17.5 grams

An unusually large Art Nouveau enameled violet pin /pendant worked in opaque white and purple shades over 18K gold. The petals are arranged around an old mine cut diamond (I/J; SI1). In Victorian flower symbology, purple violets conveyed the sentiment "modesty" and white violets conveyed "innocence." Perhaps the colors chosen for this piece were intended to represent a mix of meanings. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, as well as a bail so the flower can be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: probably European, possibly American, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; the peta on the lower right has a tiny enamel nick visible only under 10X magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16"
• Weight: 8.7 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .25 carat

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold enameled honeymoon pin featuring a diamond-set blossom enameled in delicate shades of iridescent translucent rose, yellow and white enamel set against a gold crescent moon. Delicate floral pins of this sort were popular gifts for new brides. In Victorian symbology, flowers could represent honey and crescents, the moon. Thus, honey + moon = honeymoon. The back is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 5/8"
• Weight: 3.0 grams

A delightful Retro period 14K gold charm or pendant depicting "Thursday's Child" by William Ruser. The charm is finely detailed. According to the poem, Thursday's Child has "far to go" so Ruser depicted the naked child walking along a natural freshwater pearl carrying a traveling sack of belongings. The use of freshwater pearl is a classic Ruser touch. The child's eyes are set with blue sapphires. The back is signed and is marked "14K."

Ruser, the formost Beverly Hills jewelry of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. He is best know for his depictions of dogs (particularly poodles) and waif-like children in various poses.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 1-5/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A wonderful, generously-sized Retro period 14K yellow gold charm or pendant depicting a spaniel. The dog is finely detailed and is offset with sparkling blue sapphire eyes. Ruser, the foremost Beverly Hills jeweler of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. His famous line of poodle jewels were inspired by Crawford's poodles. Other breeds of dogs are exceedingly rare. The back is marked "14K" and is signed "Ruser."

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" wide; 1-3/4" long (excluding bail); 1/2" deep
• Weight: 19.9 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold enameled flower pin with a full-blown blossom centering a seed pearl and a half-opened blossom. The petals are decorated in soft shades of ivory, green and rose iridescent translucent enamels. Delicate floral pins of this kind were popular gifts for new brides in the Victorian and Edwardian eras due to the sentimental meanings of various flowers in the Victorian flower language. The back is hallmarked by Whiteside & Blank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 11/16"
• Weight: 3.4 grams.

A lovely 14K gold Art Nouveau pin in the form of a bouquet of violets by Krementz. Three flowers on long golden stems are accented with a pair of leaves decorated with iridescent translucent enamel. Each flower comprises five dark purple enameled petals surrounding a seed pearl. In the Victorian flower language, the violet represented modesty. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, marked 14K and bearing Krementz's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• ConditionL excellent
• Dimensions: 1-13/16" x 7/8"
• Weight: 4.5 grams

A pretty vintage 14K yellow gold pin by Krementz featuring a spray of beautifully enameled bleeding hearts, each dangling a small seed pearl. The enameling on the blossoms has a matte effect that mimics the waxing texture of the flower in nature, while the leaves are in Krementz's more typical shaded translucent style. In Victorian flower language, bleeding hearts were used to represent "deepest love." Pins such as this with a delicate enameled flower against a geometric back represent are typical of Krementz's move Art Nouveau into Art Deco and finally Retro. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16" diameter
• Weight: 7.0 grams

A stunning 18K gold "Double Cable" cuff bracelet with two stations set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1) and French cut rubies. This is a very rare model from Yurman. We have seen it only once before, set with emeralds. The back of each station is signed "D Yurman/18K" and the endcaps are marked "D Yurman 750."

• Origin: America, ca. 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: width, 9/16"; width, 1/2" at stations, 12/32" along cables
• Weight: 39.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.08 carat; ruby, 1.1 carat.

A striking late Victorian 14K yellow gold crucifix set with sapphires, an old European cut diamond and seed pearls. The diamond is graded at I/SI2 and the sapphires are finely colored and show no indication of heat treatment. The gold surface is "bloomed" for a soft matte texture that enhances the gold color but is subdued enough for the religious purpose of the pendant. The bail is original and is stamped for Bippart, Griscom & Osborn, one of the finest Newark jewelers of the era.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-1/14" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 9.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .80 carat; diamond, .23 carat

A fine early French Art Nouveau orchid brooch, the flower petals carved from banded agate around old mine cut diamond stamens, all set atop an elegant gold stem set with rose cut diamonds. The flower is a single piece of agate, finished with a matte surface to suggest the texture of a real flower petals. The carver left streaks of a darker colored agate on the back to create the delicately-colored veining that shows through the petals. The petal at lower left is turned back on itself to enhance the realistic effect. The reverse is stamped with a "tete de Mercure" hallmark indicating 18K gold that was intended to be sold abroad. There is also an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent; all original; a few tiny fleabites on one petal visible only with 10X magnification
• Dimensions: 2-5/8" x 1-1/4"Weight: 10.25 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .85 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in gilt silver depicting a pair of hounds against a background of oak leaves and acorns. The quality of the casting and chasing is very nice. The reverse is marked "800".

• Origin: Europe, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-9/32" diameter
• WeightL 13.0 grams