Catalog (2475)

A stunning and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, green tourmaline and pearl bracelet signed by Everett Edward Oakes. The bracelet comprises nine comma-shaped flaring gold links, each set with either a tourmaline cabochon or a pearl. The gems are set in the notched collet-setting frequently employed by Oakes to show off a stone’s color and overall quality. The tourmalines have fine green color with moderate saturation and medium tone. The clarity is excellent for tourmalines of this type. The pearls are equally fine, with good shape and bright rose overtones. The design, with nearly a Retro feel, is a bit more modern than is often associated with Oakes, but the beadwork and notched collets are typical. The tongue of the concealed box clasp is marked “14K” and bears Oakes’ oak leaf signature.

Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for a few years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw. Oakes’ work shows a certain similarity with both Hale and Shaw. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can often be identified based on their decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, one pearl link has been removed to shorten the bracelet to a normal length. Size: 7-5/8” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 24.69 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 8.95 cts.

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

A nice pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces fashioned from carved rectangular plaques of strongly-colored chrysoprase with faceted edges. The stones have nice translucency. The faces are attached by solid connectors to the heavy bar backs. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 1/2". Weight: 5.5 grams.

A very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup cufflinks retailed by famed New York jeweler Olga Tritt. Stirrup or “étrillé” cufflinks were popularized by Cartier in the 1940s and have appeared in many variations since. This pair is unusual because of the width of the gold mesh and their relative weightiness. The closing mechanism is a bit more decorative than most, even though it can’t be seen when the cufflinks are in place. The mechanism is marked with a French jeweler’s mark indicating 18K. The cufflinks are presented in their original box, the inside of the lid imprinted with Olga Tritt’s logo and Park Avenue address.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” x 7/8” x 5/16” wide. Weight: 25.0 grams.

Very handsome 18K yellow gold and steel cable cufflinks by one of the most important high-end contemporary jewelry designers, Philippe Charriol. Charriol rose to prominence working for Cartier before starting his own boutique in 1983. The “Celtic” line was Charriol’s first design, and the he updates it every few years. These cufflinks are a newer variation of the original “Celtic” design (the front faces of the original design had two steel cables separated by a gold bar, while this pair has one cable flanked on either side by a gold bar). The toggle backs allow the cufflinks to be inserted and worn comfortably. The connectors are stamped with Charriol’s hallmark and are marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Switzerland, ca 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 3/4" x 5/16”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

Vintage 18K yellow gold omega- and post-back earrings designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is probably the artist’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable pieces. The “Scribble” line is no longer in production and examples are getting difficult to find. The earrings were made in several sizes, these being the largest. The backs are marked by Tiffany & Co. and are signed by Paloma Picasso. The earrings have the original posts with omega backs, but could be converted to clips without damaging the signatures. The earrings are presented in their Tiffany pouch.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 18.5 grams.

A very good pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Alfred Dunhill. The faces resemble branches of coral. Dunhill produces the vast majority of its cufflinks in sterling silver and the 18K gold versions are very rare. The coral design, in general, is hard to find because it was made for only a short time around 2005. The cufflinks are constructed with the connector set off-center, so the link lies flat against the cuff. The toggle back is Dunhill’s classic small toggle with the company’s insignia. The connectors are fully stamped with English convention hallmarks for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Dunhill.

Origin: England, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4". Weight: 17.6 grams.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is probably the artist’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable pieces. The pin was available in several sizes, this example being the second largest. The “Scribble” line is no longer in production and examples are getting difficult to find. The back is dated 1983, is marked by Tiffany & Co., and is signed Paloma Picasso. The pin is presented with its Tiffany pouch.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 2-5/8”. Weight: 22.5 grams.

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.

An extremely rare pair of period Art Deco 18K gold cufflinks by Cartier in the "Trinity" pattern. This is the same pattern now more frequently called the "rolling ring". The design is made up of white, yellow and rose gold bands that seem to intertwine. The cufflinks have a hinged closure that's invisible when they're being worn. Although the "Trinity" design is still one of Cartier's most popular designs, the line was created in the 1920's and the cufflinks haven't been in production since the early years. Each is marked with the French "tete d'aigle" hallmark for 18K gold, Cartier's maker's mark and Paris signature, and a serial number. The interior of one link has a minutely engraved monogram "FM" and the year " '30".

Origin: Paris, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1" diameter; 9/32" wide. Weight: 18.8 grams.

A delightful Victorian reverse carved crystal pendant set in 12K yellow gold. The pendant depicts a Yorkshire terrier (Yorkie). He’s beautifully and deeply carved and painted in shades of brown and cream. The texture of his fur comes across very nicely in the design. The dog wears a blue ribbon around his neck and displays quite a lot of character with a bit of tongue sticking out to one side and one drooping ear. The crystal is backed in gold rather than the mother of pearl that typically appears in later crystals. The pendant is bordered with a double ropetwist border. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no moisture damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 7/8” excluding bail.

A wonderful French first empire tole ware monteith, the sides hand painted with bouquets of colorful flowers against ivory-colored reserves flanked by gilt grapevine designs. The sides rise to handles cast in the form of swans’ heads--a feature very rarely seen. Verrieres are typically oval in shape, but this example is round. The bowl is unusually raised on four lion’s paw brass feet. As a whole, this is one of the more elegant and interesting early tole verrieres or monteiths we’ve seen.

Elegant glassware was a luxury and even the wealthy didn’t have enough to provide a fresh glass with each different wine course during a formal dinner. The monteith or verriere contained water, and the guests’ glasses could be hung from the notched rim to be rinsed in the communal bath. Sometimes, the vessel was filled with cold water and the glasses were simply hung there to be chilled before the service.

Origin: France, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent original paint with slight loss to one bouquet, the interior shows surface rust as expected; three of the notches seem to have been bent and then straightened out again, but this appears to have happened long ago and without any re-painting. Size: 9-1/4" x 12-5/8" at handles; 4-1/2" high (6-1/4" at handles).

A lovely sterling silver fancy serving fork in an unnamed Art Nouveau pattern by the Baird-North Co. The handle is beautifully decorated with a thorny vine of wild roses. The back is decorated in a simpler design of roses. The splayed tines are ornately pierced. A fork of this shape would probably have been used to serve bacon, but it might also be useful for cold meats. The reverse is marked “Sterling/Pat. 1903”. There is no maker’s mark (maker’s marks were not legally required until 1906), but we’ve had pieces in this pattern that have bear Baird-North’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1903-1906. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monograms. Size: 8” long. Weight: 35.5 grams.

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

A very nice 19th century Mexican tin retablo illustrating “El Nino de Atocha”. According to tradition, Christ appeared in the guise of a small child to feed the hungry Christian prisoners of the town of Atocha during the Moorish invasion of Spain. The retablo illustrates the boy wearing his traditional garb and carrying his usual water gourd on the end of a staff and a food basket. Bouquets of flowers are arranged at his feet. Interestingly, the staff and basket are shown in the opposite hands from their original arrangement and the boy is seen standing rather than sitting. The pouty appearance of the mouth suggest that this retablo might be by the “bee-stung mouth” artist, though the relative simplicity of the design would make it among his earlier works. The heavy-lidded treatment of the eyes is also characteristic of the Red Bole Group, with which the artist is often associated. The retablo retains the original welded hook on the back side, and a collector’s label stating “Santo Nino de Atocha”.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1840. Condition: excellent, very light scattered paint nicks to front, no rust. Size: 6-3/4” x 10”.

A classic pearl and diamond ring by Mikimoto. A single 8.4 millimeter pearl is set at the center of the ring and is surrounded by small round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearl is of very fine quality, estimated at AA. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The surface is smooth and lustrous. The diamonds are of equally fine quality. Typically, Mikimoto uses diamonds in the F-G color range with VVS clarity. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark and “K18”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Crown Size: 1/2" X 1/2" X 7/16” high. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

An oustanding sterling silver centerpiece basket by Gorham. The sides and handle are decorated with extremely ornate bright-cut engraving in a swirling foliate pattern. The motif is repeated to great effect in the gilt feet that raise up the basket. The intersection of the handle and feet is finished with an applied classical lion mask. The surfaces are finished in an acid-finished matte texture. The reeded border and the feet are enhanced with matte gilding, while the interior is finished with highly polished gilding. The centerpiece is an excellent example of Gorham's work for an elite market in the years immediately following the Civil War. The bottom is stamped with Gorham's hallmark, the date mark for 1871, and with Gorham's retail location at Union Square in New York.

Origin: America, 1871. Condition: very good, the interior has some small dings and light wear to the gilding visible in raking light only when the centerpiece is empty. Weight: 737.0 grams. Size: 7-1/4" x 10-1/4" x 8-1/4" tall.

A nice stoneware ewer in an unusual form by Doulton Lambeth. The bulbous body is decorated with raised flowers and foliage against a cobalt blue ground, while the foot and long tapering neck are finished in a simple pattern of incised rings highlighted with chocolate brown borders. The inside of the foot is stamped with the mark used 1891-1902 and also with the artist's mark which appears to be a conjoined "JH", "HL" or possibly just an ornate "H". There is also an assistant's mark, "b".

Origin: England, ca. 1895. Condition: no chips or cracks. Size: 11-5/8" tall.