Origin: Russia, 1891-1904. Dimensions: 52 x 27 mm (2-1/16" x 1-1/16"). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.84 cts.
Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16â€ long; 5/8â€ wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.
The original box is covered in a greenish-gold velvet. Wear marks to the interior fabric shows that the bracelet is original to the box. The interior of the lid is embossed "Tiffany & Co./New York/avenue de l'Opera 36bis/Paris." This embossing dates the bracelet to a short period between the openings of the Paris location in 1878 and the London branch in 1891. This early Paris location was more of a private salon catering to American expatriates and sold pieces manufactured by Tiffany in New York and pieces made by French and other European jewelers. The bracelet is unmarked, not unusual for Tiffany items from the European stores in this era.
- Origin: France, 1878-1891.
- Condition: bracelet, excellent original condition; box, normal wear commensurate with age.
- Dimensions: length, 23-1/4"; width when tightly coiled, 1-5/8".
- Weight: 40.1 grams.
- Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 carat; ruby, .14 carat.
The back half of the bracelet is constructed of curb links ornately engraved in a pattern of roses and foliage that matches the engraving on the front of the bracelet.
But wait, there's more! The bracelet is finished with a basse-taille enameled heart-shaped functioning padlock locket accented with antique cushion cut diamonds and matching floral and foliate engraving. The reverse of the padlock is completed with a small compartment for a love token topped with a rock crystal cover.
The bracelet is set with a total of 31 diamonds, ranging in size from .02 to .22 carats. The diamonds are of very high quality for the period, graded as I/J color and VVS2 to VS2 clarity.
The tongue of the clasp is indistinctly hallmarked with French hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 18K.
Origin: France, ca. 1840. Condition: excellent; completely original (even the safety chain); no enamel damage. Dimensions: bangle portion, 13/32" wide x 3/8" deep; circumference 6-1/4", padlock locket, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Weight: 34.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.98 cts.
Origin: Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.
Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, a 1/2" flat ding on one side (could be professionally removed). Size: 12-3/4" tall. Weight: 941.0 grams.
Origin: America, ca. 1996. Condition: mint. Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.67 carats.
Origin: Europe, possibly Poland, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/4" x 1-3/16". Weight: 9.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.6 cts (.96 ct pear).
Origin: France, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2” x 2-7/8”. Weight: 27.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight (by estimation and formula): diamond, 2.39 cts; ruby, 14.26 cts; tourmaline, 6.87 cts; opal, .97 cts.
The range of different diamond cuts in this brooch clearly indicates it was specially made to order for a customer using the diamonds already in her possession. Such commissioned pieces are often not fully hallmarked, hence the lack of a mark for platinum or a maker's mark. The quality of workmanship is superb.
The brooch is accompanied by a June 2008 written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) conforming to the above description and assigning a replacement value of $16,500.
Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 1-1/4". Weight: 16.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.84 carats (1.17 carats of fancy colored diamonds); sapphire, 2.1 carats.
Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.
Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7. Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown. Weight: 17.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.
After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.
Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.
The flower, painstakingly carved from a single piece of stone, relies on the stone’s natural color banding to produce the desired effect. The carver left only a thin layer of opaque orange stone on the back of the flower and finished the pinkish front with a matte surface to create a slightly translucent effect. The carved lines representing veining were more highly polished to glisten just a bit. The combination provides the subtle color variations and velvety textures typical of a real orchid blossom. The blossom is centered by three pistils, each prong-set with an old mine-cut diamond, the largest of which is approximately .2 carats. Just below the blossom, a silver bud is bead-set with rose-cut diamonds. The stem and leaves are worked in yellow gold that is very strongly colored. The strap-like leaves are also set with rose-cut diamonds in various sizes. All the diamonds are of good quality, the larger ones being estimated at J color and SI2 clarity.
Orchids were wildly popular in France during the last three decades of the 19th century, and they often appear in jewels by leading Art Nouveau masters. Pieces of this quality, however, are rarely available on the market. It is a certainty that this brooch was produced by one of the leading Parisian houses such as Boucheron, Vever or Tiffany. French export laws at the time, however, required that all marks on an exported item be removed and replaced with the “tete de Mercure” export mark, which is visible on the pinstem. Signs of the obliterated first mark can still be seen.
Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, some light flaking along edges of the carved flower are visible under 10x magnification, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 10.25 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .85 carats.
Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 23.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.
Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).
- ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
- DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
- WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
- APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
- CONDITION excellent
Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.
Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.