Kensington House Antiques and Sterling Silver Kensington House
All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Victorian : Pre 1910 item #1239113
Kensington House Antiques
An extremely rare and very fine Imperial Russian gold and diamond anchor brooch by Viktor (Victor) Aarne. The anchor is surmounted with the Imperial Russian crown and the cypher of Czar Nicholas II is superimposed over the stem of the anchor. The brooch is set throughout with old mine and rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in silver over gold, as was typical of Russian jewels of the period. The quality of piercing and millgraining indicate hand fabrication. Certain portions of the design, notably the crossbar of the anchor, the horizontal element of the cyrillic letter "N" and the numerals representing "II" are worked only in yellow gold as a contrast to the surrounding surfaces. THe principal diamonds average J color and SI1 clarity. A jewel of this quality, bearing the Imperial cypher, would certainly have been given as a gift by the Imperial family. The pinstem is marked for 56 zlotniks (14K) and bears the workmaster's mark used by Johann Viktor ( Johan Victor) Aarne during his St. Petersburg period, 1891-1904.

Origin: Russia, 1891-1904. Dimensions: 52 x 27 mm (2-1/16" x 1-1/16"). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.84 cts.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Retro : Pre 1950 item #1330845
Kensington House Antiques
A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Victorian : Pre 1900 item #1403042
Kensington House Antiques
Fresh from a private jewelry collection built many years ago comes this 18K yellow gold coiled snake flexible bracelet set with rubies and diamonds, presented in its original Tiffany & Co. fitted box. The snake's body is made of tightly-braided continuous lengths of gold wire. The head is engraved in a realistic pattern of scales surrounding an old European cut diamond. The eyes are set with small ruby cabochons. The creature also boasts fearsome teeth and a forked tongue. The bracelet's generous 23-1/4" length allows it to be worn tightly coiled around the wrist, stretched along the length of the forearm, or even above the elbow. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

The original box is covered in a greenish-gold velvet. Wear marks to the interior fabric shows that the bracelet is original to the box. The interior of the lid is embossed "Tiffany & Co./New York/avenue de l'Opera 36bis/Paris." This embossing dates the bracelet to a short period between the openings of the Paris location in 1878 and the London branch in 1891. This early Paris location was more of a private salon catering to American expatriates and sold pieces manufactured by Tiffany in New York and pieces made by French and other European jewelers. The bracelet is unmarked, not unusual for Tiffany items from the European stores in this era.
  • Origin: France, 1878-1891.
  • Condition: bracelet, excellent original condition; box, normal wear commensurate with age.
  • Dimensions: length, 23-1/4"; width when tightly coiled, 1-5/8".
  • Weight: 40.1 grams.
  • Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 carat; ruby, .14 carat.
All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Victorian : Pre 1900 item #1326414
Kensington House Antiques
A spectacular 18K gold combination bangle and curb chain buckle motif bracelet enhanced with engraving, enamel and diamonds. The front half of the bracelet is fashioned in the form of a buckle-motif bangle. The surface is enhanced with basse-taille enameling in a gorgeous translucent royal blue shade, edged in opaque white champleve enamel. The outer edges are finished with foliate engraving that matches the engraving of the buckle tongue. The buckle motif is completed with a diamond-set loop and three antique cushion cut diamonds representing the adjustment holes of a buckle.

The back half of the bracelet is constructed of curb links ornately engraved in a pattern of roses and foliage that matches the engraving on the front of the bracelet.

But wait, there's more! The bracelet is finished with a basse-taille enameled heart-shaped functioning padlock locket accented with antique cushion cut diamonds and matching floral and foliate engraving. The reverse of the padlock is completed with a small compartment for a love token topped with a rock crystal cover.

The bracelet is set with a total of 31 diamonds, ranging in size from .02 to .22 carats. The diamonds are of very high quality for the period, graded as I/J color and VVS2 to VS2 clarity.

The tongue of the clasp is indistinctly hallmarked with French hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1840. Condition: excellent; completely original (even the safety chain); no enamel damage. Dimensions: bangle portion, 13/32" wide x 3/8" deep; circumference 6-1/4", padlock locket, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Weight: 34.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.98 cts.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Platinum : Vintage : Pre 1930 item #1334054
Kensington House Antiques
An exquisite Art Deco platinum filigree ring set with a 1.14 carat old European cut diamond surrounded by caliber-cut onyx and coral in a sort of Moorish design. The diamond is graded as H color and SI1 clarity. All the stones are set in millgrained bezel settings. The surrounded coral has very saturated, even coloring that contrasts beautifully with the onyx and the sparkle of the diamond. Strong color contrast is especially associated with Art Deco jewels. The shank is set with three small diamonds to each side of the crown. The ring is completed with an ornately pierced gallery.

Origin: Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.

All Items : Antiques : Decorative Art : Metals : Silver : Sterling : Pre 1910 item #514953
Kensington House Antiques
Exceedingly rare custom-made sterling silver golf trophy by Shreve & Company, California's premier 19th century silversmiths. The trophy, in the form of wine ewer or pitcher and displaying the sinuous curves of the Art Nouveau style, is fainly reminiscent of some of Gorham's Martélé pieces. The body is decorated with a superb applied design cast in the form of a laurel wreath woven with golf clubs. The quality is breathtaking. Notice that one club is a putter, and the other is an wood. The body is raised on an assymetrically lobed foot decorated with applied thistle blossoms and foliage--reminding the viewer of golf's Scottish heritage. The ewer is finished with an exagerated curving handle. The trophy was never engraved. The bottom is marked "Shreve & Co./San Francisco/Sterling". This is a simply phenomenal piece of earlier California silver and a phenomenal piece of silver trophy art.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, a 1/2" flat ding on one side (could be professionally removed). Size: 12-3/4" tall. Weight: 941.0 grams.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Platinum : Pre 1980 item #1021403
Kensington House Antiques
An exquisite platinum and diamond brooch in the form of a turtle by Tiffany & Co. In the 1990’s, Tiffany created a small line of nature-themed jewels loosely based on antique pieces in its design archives. The turtle pin was one of the most luxurious pieces in the series. The domed back is pave-set with 90 2.5-point round brilliant cut diamonds and the legs and head are set with additional 28 1.5-point diamonds. The eyes are collet-set blue sapphires. The back has a pendant hook, so it can be worn suspended from a chain. The reverse is marked “1996 Tiffany & Co. PT950”. The original selling price was $15,750.

Origin: America, ca. 1996. Condition: mint. Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.67 carats.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Platinum : Vintage : Pre 1930 item #1307014
Kensington House Antiques
An exquisite Art Deco platinum pendant in the form of a rose set with old mine cut, old European cut, single cut and pear cut diamonds. The design is delicately worked in a sort of stencil effect, the negative spaces between diamond-set areas appearing as the veins of leaves or the deeper recesses of the rose blossom. The center of the rose is set with a .96-ct pear shaped diamond, H/VVS2. The smaller diamonds are well-matched in the H range SI clarity. A diamond-set leaf-shaped bail completes the design. The mounting is stamped with European platinum marks.

Origin: Europe, possibly Poland, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/4" x 1-3/16". Weight: 9.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.6 cts (.96 ct pear).

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Victorian : Pre 1900 item #1365565
Kensington House Antiques
An imposing Victorian butterfly brooch of exceptional quality and grand dimensions, the fore- and hindwings studded with rose cut diamonds set in silver-topped 18K gold and bordered with oval cabochon rubies set in gold. The thorax is formed of a round opal and the abdomen is a large squarish cabochon pink tourmaline. The design is completed with diamond antennae and emerald eyes. The opal has excellent fire with a good deal of orange and green in the flashes of light. The rubies outlining the wings have medium-light color and are well-matched to the large tourmaline forming the butterfly’s abdomen. The back of the brooch shows masterful à jour work with well-finished piercing to allow light through the stones. The back also retains the original gold pinstem and c-clasp that can be removed with a gold screw assembly. The brooch most likely originally had a comb attachment so the butterfly could be worn in the hair. The brooch is stamped with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2” x 2-7/8”. Weight: 27.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight (by estimation and formula): diamond, 2.39 cts; ruby, 14.26 cts; tourmaline, 6.87 cts; opal, .97 cts.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Platinum : Vintage : Pre 1960 item #790100
Kensington House Antiques
A magnificent vintage platinum brooch formed as a floral bouquet featuring three primary blossoms tied at the bottom with a ribbon, and set with a mix of old single cut, old Swiss cut, old European cut, old mine cut, early modern brilliant round cut and French cut diamonds and round brilliant cut sapphires. The center flower features a .83-carat, old mine cut diamond of fancy cognac color and SI2 clarity; surrounded by sapphires. A flower bud is represented just above by a prong-set .34-carat old European cut diamond of fancy light cognac color and VS2 clarity. Leaves are bead-set with mixed cut white diamonds, all in the E-G color range with VS1 to SI2 clarity. Berries are represented by collet-set blue sapphires. The sapphires display P2B zone 30 color (moderate purplish blue) on the Gem Dialogue scale and have VS clarity. The hinged double pinstem is worked in 14K white gold, but the body of the brooch is tested and guaranteed platinum.

The range of different diamond cuts in this brooch clearly indicates it was specially made to order for a customer using the diamonds already in her possession. Such commissioned pieces are often not fully hallmarked, hence the lack of a mark for platinum or a maker's mark. The quality of workmanship is superb.

The brooch is accompanied by a June 2008 written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) conforming to the above description and assigning a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 1-1/4". Weight: 16.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.84 carats (1.17 carats of fancy colored diamonds); sapphire, 2.1 carats.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Period : Pre 1980 item #991428
Kensington House Antiques
A stunning Mikimoto 18K yellow gold ring set with a 10.50 mm South Sea Akoya pearl surrounded by curved rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearl has white body color with slight rose overtones. The nacre has bright luster. The surface is free of blemishes. The diamonds are D/E color and VVS clarity, with good symmetry and polish. The quality of workmanship, materials and overall design are so obviously special, that the ring is immediately identifiable as Mikimoto. The interior of the shank is fully hallmarked for 18K gold and bears Mikimoto’s oyster shell mark. The ring is presented in its original box and is accompanied by its original Mikimoto grading certificate. It is also accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Period : Pre 1980 item #1219933
Kensington House Antiques
A stunning bombe-form ring, worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The center of the ring is set with 63 square cut blue sapphires invisibly-set into platinum, flanked on either side by a total of 62 round brilliant cut diamonds pave-set in gold. Mystery-setting, accomplished by cutting a thin groove into the girdle of each stone and then sliding it along a complex network of fine platinum wires, was invented jointly by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier in the 1930s. Today, it remains one of the most technically difficult stone-setting techniques and is tackled by very few houses. The platinum and gold components were fashioned separately and then assembled with a screw mechanism after the sapphires and diamonds were set. The design of the mounting itself locks the stones in place. The sapphires are well-matched and are color-graded as dark, strong blue (B7/5) and overall clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are of similarly high quality, with H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The interior of the shank has a worn maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7. Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown. Weight: 17.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Designer Signed : Pre 1980 item #1352146
Kensington House Antiques
A superb modernist bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with multi-colored gemstones by Bruno Guidi. Guidi was the lead designer and chief goldsmith the the acclaimed Brazilian jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx for more than 30 years. Each piece was created entirely by hand starting from a piece of gold, without the aid of any molds or pre-made elements. In this bracelet, each of the ten links features a colorful cabochon gemstone native to Brazil—amethyst; citrine; moonstone; and blue, pink and green tourmaline. The links are individually hinged so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable. The clasp is stamped "Brazil 18J Bruno Guidi."

After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Art Nouveau : Pre 1900 item #807923
Kensington House Antiques
An exquisite Art Nouveau brooch that clearly demonstrates why French Art Nouveau jewels are without parallel. A single orchid blossom, carved from banded chalcedony agate, rests atop a stem and foliage worked in contrasting yellow gold and silver and set with diamonds.

The flower, painstakingly carved from a single piece of stone, relies on the stone’s natural color banding to produce the desired effect. The carver left only a thin layer of opaque orange stone on the back of the flower and finished the pinkish front with a matte surface to create a slightly translucent effect. The carved lines representing veining were more highly polished to glisten just a bit. The combination provides the subtle color variations and velvety textures typical of a real orchid blossom. The blossom is centered by three pistils, each prong-set with an old mine-cut diamond, the largest of which is approximately .2 carats. Just below the blossom, a silver bud is bead-set with rose-cut diamonds. The stem and leaves are worked in yellow gold that is very strongly colored. The strap-like leaves are also set with rose-cut diamonds in various sizes. All the diamonds are of good quality, the larger ones being estimated at J color and SI2 clarity.

Orchids were wildly popular in France during the last three decades of the 19th century, and they often appear in jewels by leading Art Nouveau masters. Pieces of this quality, however, are rarely available on the market. It is a certainty that this brooch was produced by one of the leading Parisian houses such as Boucheron, Vever or Tiffany. French export laws at the time, however, required that all marks on an exported item be removed and replaced with the “tete de Mercure” export mark, which is visible on the pinstem. Signs of the obliterated first mark can still be seen.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, some light flaking along edges of the carved flower are visible under 10x magnification, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 10.25 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .85 carats.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Designer Signed : Pre 1980 item #833477
Kensington House Antiques
A magnificent pair of signed Mikimoto earrings featuring 13.75 mm mabe pearls in 18K yellow gold twisted knot settings accented with diamonds. The pearls are of the finest quality, estimated at AA. They have cream body color and extraordinary cream body color with rose overtones and superb luster. The brilliant round-cut diamonds are of similarly fine quality, estimated at VVS clarity and E color. They are bead set in 18K white gold to accent the color. The backs are finished with posts and omega clips. The posts could be easily removed for wear as clips-on earrings without altering the Mikimoto signature. The backs are signed with Mikimoto's oystershell mark flanked by "NY", indicating that they were made for Mikimoto's flagship New York store on 7th Avenue, and "18".

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 23.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Retro : Pre 1960 item #1293299
Kensington House Antiques
A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Retro : Pre 1940 item #1406927
Kensington House Antiques
An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.
  • ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
  • DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
  • WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
  • APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
  • CONDITION excellent
All Items : Estate Jewelry : Gold : Designer Signed : Pre 1970 item #833487
Kensington House Antiques
A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.