Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Edwardian (67)

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold bracelet by Tiffany & Co. featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals. The center crystal depicts a horse and rider jumping a fence and is flanked by a matching pair of crystals depicting hounds. The crystals are separated by links in the shape of horseshoes overlaid with bits. Sporting bracelets set with Essex crystals are uncommon and examples by major makers such as Tiffany are nearly impossible to find. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co./14K/Pat. Sept. 1924".

• Origin: America, 1924.
• Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
• Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
• Weight: 18.3 grams.

An Edwardian 14K yellow and rose gold bracelet featuring three Essex crystals of flying ducks set between depicting cattails. The cattail leaves are worked in gold that is very slightly tinted green, and the brown part of the cattail is rose gold. Reverse-carved intaglios became popular in the Victorian era, especially to depict sporting and hunting themes. They remained popular through the early part of the 20th century. The crystal depict three different species, including a mallard. Each duck is shown flying over water. The carving and painting are nicely done. The back is marked “14K”.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920
• CONDITION very good, all original, the crystals have faint moisture marks around the edges (much less visible than in the photos)
• DIMENSIONS 7-5/8” long; 9/16” wide
• WEIGHT 20.5 grams

An elegant Edwardian 14K gold chain comprising bar links engraved in a delicate foliage pattern. The chain is completed with a hidden box clasp. This chain could be worn alone or suspending a single pendant or locket. It would also look fantastic suspending charms between the bar links. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 16 1/2" long
• Condition: excellent
• Weight: 10.8 grams

A buff-cut oval amethyst perfectly offsets the superb gold setting in this Edwardian 14K gold gentleman’s ring. The stone sits in a high setting that is intricately engraved with classic motifs such as pendant bellflowers, swags, and fans that bridge the Edwardian period into early Art Deco. The ring is large, but the relatively light color of the amethyst and the use of smooth buff cut instead of full faceting keeps it from being overpowering. A woman could easily wear the ring, as well. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: shank tapering from 5/32” at the back to 1/2" wide at the front; 1/4” height from finger
• Finger Size: 9-1/2
• Weight: 8.29 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 4.11 carats

A pin featuring three horses, each sporting a red enamel bridle by the New York maker Sloan & Company. The horses are finely detailed. The clasp is stamped with Sloan's 14K mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920.
• DIMENSIONS 1 3/4" x 9/16".
• WEIGHT 5.4 grams.
• CONDITION excellent; no enamel damage; sharp detail.

A very pretty 14K gold and pink sapphire solitaire ring. The oval brilliant-cut sapphire has a nice raspberry pink color that shows well in the high cathedral-style setting. The sapphire has very good clarity and does not show indications of any heat or other treatment. The shank is enhanced with white gold floral elements on either side of the sapphire. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”. The ring would be perfect as a colored stone engagement ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .61 ct.

A magnificent and generously-sized Essex crystal set in a 14K yellow gold brooch and pendant mounting. The reverse carved crystal depicts a marshland scene with a group of ducks taking flight from a fox that has invaded their nesting ground. The scene is painted in the most delicate shades that aptly fit the fineness of the carving. The brooch is backed with mother-of-pearl that provides a distinctive luminosity to the scene. The back has a brooch clasp as well as a folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-11/16” diameter.

A lovely vintage 14K gold heart pin set all the way around with old European cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in a white gold shared-prong setting that creates a lovely gallery effect along the outer edge of the pin. The diamonds are nice quality, graded as H/I color and VS1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 1". Weight: 6.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.20 cts.

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

A lovely conversion ring featuring a a guilloche enamel plaque centered with a blue sapphire cabochon. The pale blue translucent enamel is accented with engine-turned engraving and is surrounded by a border of opaque white enamel with gold accents. The ring was created from an Edwardian stickpin with the addition of a 14K gold shank (the front is 18K).

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter
• Finger Size: 6-3/4
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .13 ct
• Weight: 2.3 grams

An elegant Edwardian bracelet comprising rectangular filigree plaques of 14K gold centering collet-set oval amethysts. The filigree is amazingly detailed. The amethysts have rich, saturated color and no zoning. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-5/16” long, 1/2" wide
• Weight: 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 16.02 carats

A superb Edwardian ring featuring a 1.89 carat antique cushion sapphire asymmetrically flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds (.40 and .35 carats, both I color and one with VS1 clarity and the other with SI2 clarity, in buttercup settings. The design is further enhanced with scrolls set with rose cut diamonds. As is typical of the period, the gold ring is topped with platinum to highlight the color of the stones. The sapphire has beautiful texture and color that reads blue across the room. The stone shows no indication of heat treatment and is characteristic of the best sapphire from Sri Lanka. The shank is stamped with French import marks for 18K gold and platinum.

• Origin: French import marks, but likely American, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide
• Finger Size: 5-3/4” (easily sizeable)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.86 ct; diamond, .89 ct
• Weight: 5.4 grams

An extremely rare French 18K gold stick pin, the head set with reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting the historic first airplane crossing of the English Channel by Louis Bleriot in 1909. Transportation-themed Essex crystal jewelry is very rare, but those clearly linked to a specific vehicle or event are truly exceptional. The colors of the painting are vibrant and there is no sign of moisture damage. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1909. Condition: excellent. Size: head, 11/16” diameter; overall length, 3”. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright red ruby. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" (11mm) diameter. Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: ruby, .28 ct; diamond, .06 ct.

An elegant Edwardian bracelet worked in fancy curly-cued gold links, each with a slash of platinum-set rose cut diamonds for a little added sparkle. A collet-set ruby appears between each of the links. The rubies have nice color and are unheated. The links are formed loosely, so the bracelet has nice movement when being worn. The tongue of the concealed clasp is stamped with French 18K gold and platinum hallmarks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 6-3/4”; width, 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.2 carats; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 14.5 grams

A sophisticated 18K gold necklace, the baton links enhanced with black and white en plein enamel. The batons are separated by seed pearls that reappear as a band across the middle of the teardrop-shaped onyx pendant. The pendant hangs from the clasp, so the necklace can be worn alone or with the pendant. Both the clasp and the mounting of the pendant are stamped with French 18K hallmarks and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: very good, some enamel nicks on the baton links visible with a loupe, but none show the underlying gold
• Dimensions: chain length, 20”; pendant length, 1-1/16”
• Weight: 14.9 grams