Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1032)

A very fine and heavy Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold fob charm in a modified teardrop form. The bottom of the charm is set with a large turquoise oval cabochon (12x9.5mm) surmounted by rows of square aquamarines, smaller turquoise round cabochons and round brilliant cut garnets. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with ornate wirework. This is one of the highest-quality Venetian Etruscan charms we've seen. The jump ring is marked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/8" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and bears Stern’s older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 1” diameter.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.05 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings.

A lovely vintage aquamarine in diamond ring set in 14K white gold. The ring features a fine 21.74-carat oval mixed cut aquamarine flanked by a pair of .136-carat round brilliant cut diamonds. The split shank holds the aquamarine high above the side diamonds in a cage setting. The aquamarine is graded as light, very slightly grayish, slightly greenish-blue (slgB3/3) in color; good cut, and Type I eye-clean clarity. The aquarmarine is quite large, but its light tone and color saturation gives the ring a lighter feel than it might have with a darker stone. The diamonds are both I color and good cut, one with SI1 clarity, and the other with VS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”.

America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 7/8” x 15/16”. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 21.74 carats; diamond, .27 carat.

A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

A classic mid-century silver pendant or charm representing the Zodiac sign Libra (“la Balance”). A detailed scale appears over a stippled background and is accompanied by the classic iconographical symbol for balance. The pendant is stamped with French second-standard (800/1000 pure) silver hallmarks in use before 1962 and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” diameter excluding bail and jump ring
• Weight: 3.8 grams

A very nice and unusually heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob/charm set with amethysts. The gold surfaces are heavily worked in twisted wire and beaded decoration. The smaller amethysts are set in flower-shaped collets. Tested and guaranteed 18K (the jump ring is marked “750”).

• Origin: Italy, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 16.5 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.59 carats

A 14K gold folding portrait locket in the shape of a lucky four-leaf clover. The leaves are decorated with engraved and brushed finishes to create the details and center an amethyst sphere set in prongs. The back cover is simply decorated in a brushed texture. The locket opens to reveal compartments with oval openings for four photos, making it ideal for a mother of four, or a mother of three who likes her husband as much as her kids! The interior is stamped 14K. The clover can be worn as a pendant or as a charm on a chunky bracelet.

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” x 1” (excluding bail”
• Weight: 12.1 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A very fine vintage 14K yellow gold three-stone ring featuring an oval mixed-cut ruby flanked by round brilliant-cut diamonds. All the stones are of very fine quality. The ruby has the pigeon's blood color found in the finest quality stones. It is graded at medium-dark, strong, slightly purplish Red (slpR 6/6); excellent cut; Type II eye-clean clarity; with no indications of heat or other treatment. Rubies of this quality are exceptionally difficult to find now. The diamonds are of similar quality, graded as VS1 and VS2 and both with VG cut. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, mid-20th century. Size: crown, 5/8 x 5/16". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.09 ct; diamond, .80 ct.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed, if desired. Marked with an older Stern hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 12.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.11 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings

A very nice and heavy vintage Italian crown-shaped charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and set with citrines and pearls. The gold surfaces are enhanced with rope twist and beaded appliques and wire brushing. The citrines have particularly rich color trending away from yellow and more toward the deep amber shade of cognac. The pearls have nice luster. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks and French 18K gold import marks.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1” x 1-1/4” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 30.4 carats
• Weight: 24.0 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The inside of the shank is stamped “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 13/16” diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 3.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.59 cts.

A heavy 18K yellow gold fob Etruscan-style fob, charm or pendant in the form of an ancient Greco-Roman amphora. The gold surfaces are covered in an ornate pattern of twisted rope and rosettes. The upper shoulders of the urn are set with a pair of cabochon citrines of dark amber color and the lower portion is set with a pair of cabochon garnets. The design is finished by a pair of rope-twist handles. The charm is marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: very good; one garnet has surface abrasions and nicks to the collet setting visible on close inspection. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long. Weight: 11.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 4.88 cts; citrine, 3.38 cts.

An attractive 1950s 18K yellow gold brooch prong-set with round brilliant-cut chrysoprase. The stones are brighter green than usual—nearly an emerald color—and could easily be mistaken for emeralds except for their translucent quality. The gold setting is reminiscent of a cactus. The gold surfaces are nicely textured. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 13/16”. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .2 carat.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold bird pin, the body formed from a oval cabochon turquoise, and the head and wings from textured gold. The eye set with a cabochon sapphire surrounded by small single-cut diamonds. The tail feathers are accented diamonds set in white gold feathers. The branch has a single turquoise and diamond flower. The design is clearly a nod to Van Cleef & Arpels' "La Boutique" collection which was inspired by early animated cartoon characters. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-1/4”: Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .75 carat; sapphire, .13 carat; turquoise, 9.10 carats.
• Weight: 18.5 grams.

A nice 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm set with oval brilliant cut citrines. The stones have intense orangey-yellow color and the gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied wire-work and rosettes. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-1/4” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.76 carats.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; all original.

A pretty 14K yellow gold brooch designed as a cluster of leaves, each accented with a collet-set round ruby. The leaf surfaces have stippled and Florentine finishes for nice contrast. The back is marked “14K” and also has an illegible maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-7/8” x –1-1/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .15 carat
• Weight: 6.0 grams

Lovely vintage 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a stylized starfish. The center is set with a 6.5mm pearl surrounded by blue sapphires. The pearl has a nice rosy hue that complements the gold setting, and the sapphires are of fine quality with bright color. The back of the pin is marked with the maker's mark "GW" and "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1950s. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .75 carat.

A very good, large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is studded with a variety of bezel-set tourmalines, amethysts, citrines, aquamarines and garnets. Stern popularized the style in the 1950’s to show off the variety of gemstones mined in the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design eventually became known as “Sputnik”. The rings were made in a variety of dome sizes, and this example is exceptionally large. The inside of the shank is marked with Stern’s hallmark and with 18K hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Size: dome, 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.0 cts.

An 18K yellow gold Sputnik pendant by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with 19 round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, garnets, and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950's to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 13/16". Weight: 3.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A fine example of some of the best enameled silver produced by David-Andersen in the late 1950s. This brooch represents "Spring" from the "Four Seasons" line designed for David-Andersen by Thorbjorn Lie-Jorgensen in the late 1950s. The set of designs represent an abstract aerial views of the same landscape in each of the four seasons. "Spring" is worked in lush shades of turquoise, teal blue, gold and brown. The back, with the original patina, retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, and is marked "D-A", "925S" and "Norway-Sterling".

Origin: Norway, ca. 1959. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-5/16". Weight: 16.25 grams.

An extraordinary near-life-size tulip brooch, the blossom and leaves worked in 18K yellow gold and the stem and stamens in white gold. The gold surfaces are extensively and expertly texturally engraved to simulate the semi-matte appearance of a tulip’s petals, and the toughness of its leaves. The entire assembly is completely three-dimensional. A 1/5-carat round brilliant diamond is nestled between the blossom and a leaf, and the interior of the flower conceals white gold stamens topped with smaller round brilliant-cut diamonds. The entire length of the white gold stem is pave-set with single cut diamonds. A bright green oval emerald is tucked into the cut end of the stem. The diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The emerald is graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6) color with only light inclusions. The back of the brooch retains its original double-pin coat or fur clip. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and one leaf bears an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 4-1/2 inches long; 1-5/8” inches wide. Weight: 65.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .31 ct; diamond, 2.5 cts.

A nice 18K yellow gold pendant or charm in the Sputnik style. The sphere is collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, aquamarines and garnets. This jewelry design was originally created by H. Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Unmarked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: very good; under 10x magnification some stones show normal surface wear consistent with their age. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 1.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.03 carats.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. This is the first time we've seen a blue tourmaline in a Sputnik ring. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This ring has unusually saturated colors, particularly in the green tourmalines and garnets. The shank is stamped "18K".

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.81 cts.

An uncommon 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik style collet-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets, aquamarines and citrines. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company's native Brazil. It later came to be known as "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance resulting from the specific combination of gemstones used. This pendant has rich look with unusually saturated colors. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings; pendants are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 25/32" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 3.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.81 cts.

A lovely pair of vintage 18K yellow gold earrings in the classic 1950s combination of diamonds, turquoise and ruby. The cruciform shape and sophisticated use of gemstone colors is very much in the style of Verdura, Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels pieces of the era. The gold petals are simply enhanced with twisted wire and the diamonds are set in platinum. Each earring is stamped with French gold and platinum hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15/16 x 15/16 in. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; ruby, 3.0 ct; turquoise, 3.28 ct.

Exquisite 1950s triple strand pearl bracelet completed with generously diamond-set 14K white gold spacers and matching clasp. The 7mm pearls are of fine quality, with thick nacre and a lovely sheen, and are beautifully matched. The body color is ivory with silvery overtones. The quality is estimated at A1. Three swirled spacers and a matching clasp, each worked in 14K white gold complete the bracelet. Each piece is set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stones are of fine quality, estimated at H color and VVS clarity. Unlike most spacers that simply separate the strands, the spacers in this bracelet are constructed in a way that rows of three pearls seem to be set into the spacers themselves—a unique and particularly elegant style. The matching clasp, completely invisible when closed, is one of the best clasp designs we’ve seen in many years. The back of the clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, stringing is secure, no wear to pearls. Size: 7-5/8” long; 1-1/8” wide. Weight: 53.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 3.83 carats.

A beautiful 18K rose gold pendant set with an array of brilliant round-cut colored gems including green tourmaline, peridot, aquamarine, garnet, green beryl, citrine and pink topaz. The gems are arranged in a circle around the central peridot set in a multi-level buttercup setting. The rosy shade of the gold contrasts beautifully with the rich colors of the gemstones. Although it is not signed, we feel strongly that this piece was created by H Stern, around the same time as the iconic "Sputnik" line was introduced. These jewels featured the wide array of gems to be found in Stern's Brazilian mines. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.96 carats.

A nice 18K gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with nineteen round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, peridots, aquamarines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 13/16" diameter. Weight: 6.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.28 cts.

An uncommon 18K yellow gold charm or pendant in the Sputnik style, bezel-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, aquamarines, citrines and garnets. The design was created by H Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each Sputnik piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific combination and placement of the various gemstones. This particular example has strong contrasts between the darkest and lightest stones. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings. Pendants and charms, especially large ones that are fully spherical, are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” diameter. Weight: 6.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.98 ct.

A large Etruscan style 18K gold fob charm an a crown form, set with emerald and round cut citrines. The gold surfaces are decorated with twisted wire and rosettes, and the lower portion has a Florentine finish with engraved details. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca, 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-3/16” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 37.4 carats
• Weight: 22.6 grams

This vintage Italian 18K gold and ebony blackamoor charm is distinguished by particularly nice carving. She is adorned with gold hoop earrings and a gold collar that forms the base of the charm. The bottom is stamped with 18K gold hallmarks used in Florence 1938-64.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1950.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" tall (not including bail or jump ring).

An outstanding lantern-shaped Etruscan-style 18K gold charm/pendant featuring coral cabochons. The gold surfaces are worked with intricate beading and twisted wirework. The decorative gold work is among the best we’ve seen on this type of charm. The coral has pure orange-red color and nice polish. The jump ring is stamped “750” for 18K gold, and the charm is tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” high (excluding jump ring); 1-1/4” wide
• Weight: 19.9 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

A superb Ventian Etruscan pendant or charm set with citrine, smoky quartz, green and green tourmaline, aquamarine, blue topaz, hessonite garnet, and almandine garnet. These large pendants come in many different shapes, but this is the first time we've seen one in the shape of a six-pointed star (Star of David.) The gemstones are nicely colored and all the gold surfaces are enhanced with intricate ropetwist and beaded decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 3.0 cts; smoky quartz, 3.0 cts; tourmaline, 1.6 cts; aquamarine, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.
• Weight: 11.0 grams