Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1032)

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

A large and extremely rare 18K gold scenic locket depicting a detailed image of four passengers in an early automobile waving as an Antoinette monoplane with two passengers flies by. The car's headlights are set with rose cut diamonds. The detailed scene includes a flock of birds dispersed by the airplane, a plume of exhaust smoke behind the car, and another automobile with passengers and a village in the distant background. A female passenger leans from the side of the car, waving her handkerchief at the passing airplane. The bottom edge bears a signature, likely that of Holy Frères, partly hidden by the applied scalloped border. The interior retains the two original photo frames. The back cover is engraved with an ornate three-letter monogram and the date 7-12-1915 (December 7 in the European dating system). The bail is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: France or Switzerland, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 1 9/32" diameter
• Condition: excellent; a pinpoint ding to the back cover
• Weight: 8.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond eight: .03 carat

A stunning pair of late Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral earrings, the petals enhanced with iridescent enamel and the centers set with clusters of blue sapphires. The quality of the enamel, shading from a medium blue to a pale greenish-yellow is superb. The gold surfaces underneath the enamel are delicately engraved to represent the veining and surface textures of real flower petals. The use of iridescent enamels and the quality of workmanship suggests one of the better Newark workshops as the likely maker. The round sapphires have vivid blue coloring and are set nicely above the surrounding petals to create a very three-dimensional appearance. The earrings probably originally had wire, but now have omega-clips. The could easily be returned to wire, or have posts added. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; omega clips replacing original wires. Size: 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 13.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .84 carat.

An impressive 42-carat citrine centers this elegant pendant. The 14K gold setting features stylized flowers and foliage on each side of the stone. The citrine has very good even brownish-orange color resembling a good topaz. Overall, the impression is “statement piece.” The original bail is stamped “585” for 14K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” wide; 1-15/16” long including bail
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 42.02 carats
• Weight: 17.0 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

An elegant pair of late Edwardian drop earrings worked in 10K white gold. Each round drop is set with a coral bead at the center and the gold is studded with tiny rose cut diamonds. The surmounts are also set with diamonds. The brightness of the coral hints at the importance that color would take on as jewelry moved into the Art Deco period. Both the front and back of the earrings is enhanced with an intricate pierced design. The earrings hang freely and have a great deal of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” wide, 1-1/2” long from top of wire. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.

Lovely Edwardian bar pin of 10K white laid over 10K yellow gold, beautifully worked in an ornate filigree and millegrained pattern, centering a 1-pt. round brilliant-cut diamond. The back is marked "10K" and also has a maker's mark.

Origin: America, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/32" long.

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bangle bracelet featuring a row of five collet-set amethysts separated by gold floral and foliage sprays. The amethysts have good saturated color free of zoning and are nicely matched. The bangle is hinged so it is easy to put on and remove. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/32” wide; 6-5/16” circumference
• Weight: 15.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 4.09 carats

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

An exquisite Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a peacock. The bird is worked in stunningly applied translucent enamels in shades of rose, blue, green, yellow, black and violet. The curling tail feathers are set with seed pearls and body is surrounded by an assymetrical frame set with seed pearls and suspending a small old European cut diamond and an oval brilliant-cut peridot. This is one of the very finest enameled bird brooches we’ve seen. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” x 1-5/8”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .03 carat; peridot, .59 carat.

An extraordinarily fine and rare Art Nouveau sporting brooch featuring an enameled fox head superimposed over a horseshoe, a riding crop and a whip. The horseshoe is set with old mine cut diamonds simulating the nails. The fox's eyes are set with rubies. The pin is beautifully enameled in lifelike colors. The fox's mouth is open to show fierce jagged gold teeth. An identical brooch was featured in the "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" exhibition held in 2005 at the Museum of American Folk Art in New York. It is also published in the exhibition book by the same name. The pin in unmarked, but is a known Alling Bros. design.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-15/16"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .05 carat; diamond, .10 carat

A lovely carved coral cameo of a maiden in an elegant 14K yellow gold surround set with small pearls. The cameo is deeply carved and has nicely even color. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped "14K" and has the maker's mark for Erlich & Sinnock, a Newark jeweler.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 25/32" x 15/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 6.0 gr.

A lovely maiden surrounded by a bower of daisies is featured in this Art Nouveau 10K gold pendant/watch pin. In Victorian flower language, the daisy represented "innocence." The design is nicely detailed. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: sharp detail; pinstem, clasp and watch hook are original; hidden bail was added by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

A lovely, delicate 10K white gold filigree ring set with a buff-cut amethyst. Buff-cut stones are somewhat uncommon with their smooth domed tops and faceted bottoms, but were popular in the Edwardian era. The shank is marked "10K."

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, minute surface wear to stone visible under 10x magnification; sharp details on setting. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/8". Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.0 cts.

Lovely Edwardian brooch featuring beautifully-crafted floral swirls and filigree of yellow gold surrounding a carved oval plaque of chrysoprase centered with a collet-set white sapphire. The pinstem is marked with partially illegible marks. The maker's mark "WW" (or "MM") is clearly stamped. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: Continental, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 13/16". Weight: 4.0 grams.

A lovely, medium-size Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold pin in the form of a violet. Each of the petals is beautifully decorated in shaded translucent enamels in tones of violet and yellowish-cream. The translucency and high gloss of the enamel create a tremendous sense of depth in the design. The edges of the petals are set with rows of tiny seed pearls and the flower is centered with an old European cut diamond, graded as I/J, SI2. The reverse retains its original clap and pinstem and is marked for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

Very nice Victorian 14 karat yellow gold stickpin in the shape of a horseshoe, set with nine seed pearls. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" long.

Converted from an antique Art Nouveau stickpin, this lovely ring features a round brilliant cut blue sapphire flanked by curving gold borders that form a faintly heart-shaped. The design is accented at the top and bottom with tiny seed pearls. The sapphire has a pretty cornflower blue color and excellent clarity. Both the crown and the band are 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions, crown, 7/16 x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .38 carat.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

Three glowing opals punctuate each this pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold dress clips. Triangular in shape, the clips are entirely hand-pierced and chased in a swirling foliate pattern. The leaves extend beyond the triangular borders to create a slightly assymetrical shape. The opals are much more attractive in person than in the photos, and have fine play of green, blue, orange and red color, evenly spread over the gemstones. Clips of this sort would have originally been worn on either side of a neckline, on a fur, or attached to shoes. They can still be worn those ways, of course, but they're terribly versatile and could be worn on jacket or coat lapels, clipped onto a grosgrain or velvet ribbon and worn as a choker, and dangling from a chain. The clips have a a jeweler's inventory number, but no maker's mark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1915.
• Excellent condition; all original.
• 1 1/4" x 1 1/4".
• 21.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Opal Weight: 2.22 carats.

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising individual links fashioned as abstract bellflowers, each set with an oval cabochon rhodolite garnet. Each link is further enhanced with appliques to suggest leaves, tendrils and seed pods. The overall design is very much in the Jensen expression of Skonvirke. The rhodolite garnets have lovely purple coloring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: possibly Denmark, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4†wide; 8†long. Weight: 29.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.95 cts.

A lovely large-size enameled 14K gold Art Nouveau flower pin/pendant. The petals are finely decorated with shaded enamels in tones of periwinkle, violet, cream and dark rose. The sculptural petals surround a round brilliant-cut diamond, graded as I/J, VVS2. The back of the pin retains the original clasp, pinstem and folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K” and also has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925 Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

A very rare 14K yellow gold and enamel pin in the form of an oyster shell complete with a small pearl. The enamel is beautifully worked in shades of greenish- and silvery-grey. The shell is depicted as slightly opened with pearl resting along the opened edge. The back of the pin is stamped with the 14K gold hallmark of Alberts & Son, Inc., one of the Newark jewelers.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 7/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A pretty Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold locket by Elias Rees & Son, depicting a young woman surrounded by a bower of flowers. The back cover bears a period monogram, nicely worked in ornate Art Nouveau script. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers on both sides and is hallmarked by Rees.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; nice detail. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 5.8 gr.

A wonderfully naughty Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold ring depicting a couple engaged in mutual oral stimulation. Victorian and Edwardian erotic jewelry is extremely rare, having been made only for the daring few who were willing to wear such things in public. Like other pieces of erotica, the designer was charged with making the object look as innocent as possible, only revealing its true nature upon very careful and prolonged inspection. Upon first examination, this ring appears to be a typical sinuous floral Art Nouveau design. Looking closely however, the design reveals a man and woman amorously entwined. Even the back of the shank is decorated with a pair of somewhat cleverly concealed penises. The ring is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, very little wear. Size: 1/2" wide. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 7.5 grams.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright red ruby. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" (11mm) diameter. Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: ruby, .28 ct; diamond, .06 ct.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

A perfect way to wear a little of the Gilded Age right on your own hand! The lovely navette shape is slimming on the finger and can even be worn on the middle or index finger. The ring has a delicate appearance but enough length to make a statement. The warm glow of medium-toned center ruby contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the four diamonds (I/SI2) surrounding it. The yelow gold shake is set with a four additional rubies flanking the navette. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/4 (easily sized up or down several notches). Dimensions: 3/4" long. Weight: 4.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, .40 ct.

A lovely small locked in the form of a four-leaf clover worked in 18K yellow gold. One petal is set with a round ruby. Each of the leaves is shaped in an exaggerated heart form, perhaps to suggest the beloved contents of the interior. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers, as well as photos of the original owner’s young husband and little girl in period clothing. The locket and jump ring are both stamped with French gold marks. Interestingly, the back of the jump ring is engraved “2016,” perhaps as a reference to when the locket was passed along to another generation.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 7.1 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .14 carat.