Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Platinum (33)

An exquisite platinum and diamond brooch in the form of a turtle by Tiffany & Co. In the 1990’s, Tiffany created a small line of nature-themed jewels loosely based on antique pieces in its design archives. The turtle pin was one of the most luxurious pieces in the series. The domed back is pave-set with 90 2.5-point round brilliant cut diamonds and the legs and head are set with additional 28 1.5-point diamonds. The eyes are collet-set blue sapphires. The back has a pendant hook, so it can be worn suspended from a chain. The reverse is marked “1996 Tiffany & Co. PT950”. The original selling price was $15,750.

Origin: America, ca. 1996. Condition: mint. Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.67 carats.

Stunning platinum and diamond earrings in the "stile guirland" or "garland style" developed in Paris by Cartier, but first made fashionable by Queen Alexandra of England. Each earring is composed of a floral motif surmount, suspending a bow, suspending a wreath circled about another floral motif, suspending a teardrop. Each earring is fully articulated, so that all the parts move independently with the slightest movement. Each earring contains 51 round brilliant-cut diamonds of very fine color and clarity. The larger stones are collet-set, while the smaller stones are bead-set. The platinum setting is very finely millegrained. The backs are marked "PT900".

Origin: American, circa 1980. Condition: excellent; the posts are original and the clutches are 18 karat white gold replacements (a normal occurence, since clutches tend to wear out or get lost easily). Size: 2" long. Weight: 18.75 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.

An iconic "Lentils" necklace crafted in hematite by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. Cummings began designing with lentil-shaped beads in late 1980 and it became one of her hallmarks. This hematite necklace is punctuated with a single platinum lentil pave-set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1). The brilliance of the diamonds is particularly nice against the dark color of the hematite. The clasp is signed "Cummings", "T&Co." and "IridPlat".

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15-3/4" long; beads, 7/16" diameter. Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

A stunning pair of platinum and 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds and rubies by Tiffany & Co. Each earring features four marquise cut diamonds set in the traditional “Victoria” crossed pattern, suspending a prong-set round mixed-cut ruby. The diamonds are set in platinum, while the rubies are set in 18K yellow gold, as tradition dictates. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The rubies, of equally superb quality, are graded as medium vivid red color (R 5/6), excellent cut, and Type II eye-clean clarity. The quality of the rubies suggests they are Burmese in origin. Tiffany has not sold Burmese gems since 2003, so earrings such as these cannot be replaced. The posts are marked “T&Co PT950”. Victoria earrings, set only with diamonds, are currently available at Tiffany for $4650 (.72 ct) and $6500 (1.28 ct).

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32” x 5/16”. Weight: 3.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .98 ct; ruby, .88 ct.

Elegant platinum and diamond bracelet designed by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. The bracelet features 23 collet-set 10-point round brilliant-cut diamonds spaced along a platinum chain. The diamonds are G color and VS clarity. The clasp is marked "Perretti T&Co 950". It currently (January 2013) retails at Tiffany for $10,500. Size: 7-1/8" long. Weight: 5.5 grams. Total Diamond Weight: 2.3 carats.

A magnificent vintage platinum brooch formed as a floral bouquet featuring three primary blossoms tied at the bottom with a ribbon, and set with a mix of old single cut, old Swiss cut, old European cut, old mine cut, early modern brilliant round cut and French cut diamonds and round brilliant cut sapphires. The center flower features a .83-carat, old mine cut diamond of fancy cognac color and SI2 clarity; surrounded by sapphires. A flower bud is represented just above by a prong-set .34-carat old European cut diamond of fancy light cognac color and VS2 clarity. Leaves are bead-set with mixed cut white diamonds, all in the E-G color range with VS1 to SI2 clarity. Berries are represented by collet-set blue sapphires. The sapphires display P2B zone 30 color (moderate purplish blue) on the Gem Dialogue scale and have VS clarity. The hinged double pinstem is worked in 14K white gold, but the body of the brooch is tested and guaranteed platinum.

The range of different diamond cuts in this brooch clearly indicates it was specially made to order for a customer using the diamonds already in her possession. Such commissioned pieces are often not fully hallmarked, hence the lack of a mark for platinum or a maker's mark. The quality of workmanship is superb.

The brooch is accompanied by a June 2008 written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) conforming to the above description and assigning a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 1-1/4". Weight: 16.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.84 carats (1.17 carats of fancy colored diamonds); sapphire, 2.1 carats.

A superb pair of vintage, mid-century platinum earrings with green tourmalines and diamonds. The large rectangular step cut tourmalines contrast beautifully with the surrounding ribbons of diamonds and the whiteness of the platinum settings. The pairing of tourmalines and diamonds isn’t terribly common and gives these earrings a special appeal. The tourmalines, of outstanding quality, are graded as very slightly bluish green hue, with medium dark tone and strong saturation (vslbG 6/5); 60% brilliance (very good); excellent cut proportions; good finish; and Type I eye-clean clarity. The round brilliant and single cut diamonds are estimated at H color, VSI clarity. Marked for platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, tourmalines have slight wear at facet junctions visible at 10x magnification. Weight: 12.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 14.0 carats; diamond, .66 carat.

A very fine pair of platinum, diamond and aquamarine earrings in a classic Art Deco style. The brilliant round-cut diamonds graduate from .20 ct at the top to .30 ct at the bottom. The diamonds are finely matched at H color, VS1 to VS2 clarity, with good to very good cut. The brilliant oval-cut aquamarines have fine color color, very good brilliance and SI clarity. The aquamarines are unheated. Each gemstone is set in a fully articulated mounting with a pierced gallery. The earrings have screw posts. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Size: 1-3/4" long. Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.52 carats; aquamarine, 3.52 cts. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A very fine pair of platinum, diamond and sapphire earrings in a classic line pattern. The brilliant round-cut diamonds graduate from .10 ct at the top to .20 ct at the bottom. The diamonds are finely matched at H color, SI1 to SI2 clarity, with good to very good cut. The modified-brilliant round-cut sapphires have a beautiful limpid medium violet-blue color, excellent brilliance and eye-clean clarity. Each stone is set in a fully articulated mounting with a pierced gallery. The earrings have screw posts. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

• Dimensions: 1-9/16" long
• Weight: 8.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.4 carats; sapphire, 1.22 carats

A stunning late Art Deco pair of diamond and palladium dress clips by Tiffany & Co. The clips are fully convertible with a duette mechanism into a single round brooch of substantial presence. Each clip features a pair of stylized flowers with curving foliage and are faintly in the cornucopia shape popular in Deco and Retro jewels. The clips are extremely versatile--they can be worn singly, as a pair or joined as the larger brooch. The diamonds are G color and VVS2-VS1 clarity. The back of each clip is marked "950 Palladium Tiffany & Co." and each as a scratched inventory number. The duette mechanism is worked in gold. The clips are presented in their original Tiffany box.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 3/4" each; 1-3/8" x 1-1/2" joined. Weight: 16.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.88 cts.

A fabulous Art Deco platinum brooch in the form of a carved hardstone Scottish Terrier sitting atop a diamond-encrusted platform surrounded by a leash as a sort of diamond-set halo. The dog is finely carved and enhanced with a matte finish. The 114 old mine and single-cut diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The back of the pin is finished with a double clip. The reverse is engraved "To Mama 6-8-36". The bottom edge of the gallery has what appears to be a heavily worn signature. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, probably Belgium, 1936. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1". Weight: 15.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.85 carats.

An elegant Art Deco platinum filigree ring centered by a .70 old European cut diamond mounted in an octagonal surround of caliber cut synthetic sapphires (typical of genuine Art Deco period rings). The platinum setting is beautifully pierced at the front and the shank is engraved in a foliate pattern completely around. The diamond is graded as G/H color and VVS1 clarity, and has excellent cut with fine brilliance. The sapphires are bright and provide a nice pop of color. The interior of the shank is engraved with a pair of monograms and the date 2/19/27.

Origin: America, 1927. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 3.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

A lovely Art Deco white gold and platinum filigree bracelet featuring three diamond-set frosted and engraved crystal plaques alternating with bezel-set pale blue spinels. The use of pale blue spinels the color of aquamarines is a very unusual treatment in a bracelet of this type, and the overall effect is very pretty. All the platinum surfaces are engraved in a delicate foliate motif. The clasp is stamped for 14K and platinum and has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crystal plaques, 9/16” wide; overall length, 8-1/8”. Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: spinel, 1.18 cts; diamond, .08 ct.

A stunning early Art Deco platinum bracelet set with diamonds and emeralds. The bracelet comprises seven rectangular plaques, each centered with an old European cut diamond. The plaques are hand-pierced in an ornate foliate pattern accented with a total of 84 smaller old European and single cut diamonds and 70 calibre-cut natural emeralds. The primary diamonds (two .44ct; two .46ct; two .55ct; and one .61ct) are very well matched and are graded G/SI1. Each plaque is slightly arched to accommodate the curve of the wrist. The clasp has a hidden safety catch and is stamped with French platinum hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1925.

Condition: excellent, all original, normal wear to emerald surfaces consistent with age.

Size: 11/32” wide; 6-3/4” long.

Weight: 27.5 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 6.22 cts; emerald, 1.47 cts.

An exquisite Art Deco platinum filigree ring set with a 1.14 carat old European cut diamond surrounded by caliber-cut onyx and coral in a sort of Moorish design. The diamond is graded as H color and SI1 clarity. All the stones are set in millgrained bezel settings. The surrounded coral has very saturated, even coloring that contrasts beautifully with the onyx and the sparkle of the diamond. Strong color contrast is especially associated with Art Deco jewels. The shank is set with three small diamonds to each side of the crown. The ring is completed with an ornately pierced gallery.

Origin: Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.

An exquisite Art Deco platinum pendant in the form of a rose set with old mine cut, old European cut, single cut and pear cut diamonds. The design is delicately worked in a sort of stencil effect, the negative spaces between diamond-set areas appearing as the veins of leaves or the deeper recesses of the rose blossom. The center of the rose is set with a .96-ct pear shaped diamond, H/VVS2. The smaller diamonds are well-matched in the H range SI clarity. A diamond-set leaf-shaped bail completes the design. The mounting is stamped with European platinum marks.

Origin: Europe, possibly Poland, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/4" x 1-3/16". Weight: 9.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.6 cts (.96 ct pear).

A stunning Art Deco platinum ring featuring an antique cushion cut 9.03-carat Ceylon sapphire flanked on either side by three baguette diamonds arranged in a stepped pattern. The sapphire is graded on the GIA scale as vB5/4 (medium tone, moderate-strong saturation, violetish blue color), with eye-clean clarity and excellent cut. The stone's internal characteristics suggest Ceylon as the most likely origin. The overall look is a lovely cornflower blue with a tinge of violet mixed in. The stone is brilliant and easily stands up to the side diamonds, graded as F/VS1. The shank is stamped with French hallmarks for platinum and for 18K (the prongs holding the sapphire are 18K white gold). The interior of the shank is stamped with a serial number and a maker's signature that is now obscured. A stone of this size and quality, complete with a serial number, would suggest a major Parisian house as the maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent; the shank is in very good condition; minute scattered facet junction wear on the sapphire. Dimensions: crown, 11/16" x 1/2". Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 9.03 cts; diamond, .60 ct.

A gorgeous Art Deco platinum mounting sprinkled with diamonds and featuring a pair of round brilliant cut aquamarines. The crown of the ring rises well up off the finger, creating a sort of umbrella effect that nestles the aquamarines. The diamonds larger diamonds in the setting are old European cuts and the smaller ones are single cuts. All are in the H/I color range with VS clarity. The mounting is finished with expert milgraining and ornate piercing.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide tapering to 1/16” at the back of the shank.
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 2.14 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat.
• Condition: excellent.