Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1628)

Elegant Retro 18K yellow and white gold brooch in the form of a phoenix--the mythological bird that arises from the ashes. The wings are beautifully formed from ribbons of gold that give the effect of trailing plumage. The body and crested head are fashioned from white gold and are pavé-set with 55 rose-cut diamonds. The white gold not only highlights the diamonds, but also provides a nice contrast with the yellow gold feathers. The eye represented by a brilliant-cut ruby. The brooch has nice depth and flow to the design. The back is stamped with French "tête d'aigle" 18K gold hallmarks, and with an unidentified maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-7/8" x 1-7/8". Weight: 21.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.1 carats; ruby, .05 carat.

A beautiful 14K yellow gold floral pin by Tiffany & Co. Pointed, swirled petals surround a central diamond and blue sapphire cluster. The prong-set, brilliant-cut stones have excellent bright color and clarity as expected of Tiffany. This brooch is an excellent example of the sort of stylized floral gem-set designed that Tiffany produced for daywear toward the end of the retro period and in the very early 1950s. The back is marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; sapphire, .28 carat.

PLEASE NOTE: We are also offering the matching earclips (Item #490782).

A fine Victorian 14K gold stick pin in the form of a sword. The ornate hilt is bead-set with seed pearls and old European cut emeralds. The emeralds are of very fine quality, with excellent color. The back has a small bale that can be attached to a safety pin and chain, if desired. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: hilt, 7/8” x 3/4"; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .2 carat.

A lovely brooch in 14K yellow gold set with 19 Mikimoto-quality cultured pearls. The 4mm pearls have cream body color with rosy overtones. The luster is excellent. The back is marked “K14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-15/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 7.0 grams.

Fabulous Art Deco 18K yellow gold box, the lid decorated with opaque red and black champlevé enamels depicting a roulette wheel. A black enamel linear pattern and fan motifs at the corners complete the very Deco design. The can be used to hold either cash or mother of pearl gambling counters. For those who are curious, the case perfectly fits $2,500 in $100 bills folded in half. The superb workmanship shows, not only in the enameling, but in the solid construction techniques such as attaching the lid with a full piano hinge for extra security. The inner lip and thumbpiece are hallmarked with the “tete d’aigle” mark in a hexagonal reserve used on French enameled 18K gold. There is also an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no monogram, no enamel damage, a pinpoint ding on the bottom side of the case. Size: 3-7/16” x 2-13/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 142.5 grams (4.582 troy ounces).

A handsome dress set comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs. The 14K yellow gold faces have geometric decoration and feature bead-set round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are estimated at SI2 clarity and J-K color. Those in the studs are approximately 1/4 carat each, and those in the cufflinks are approximately 1/8 carat each. The studs have a spring mechanism and the cufflinks have toggle backs. Each piece is marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” x 17/32”; studs, 5/16” x 5/16”. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat. Weight: 16.0 grams.

A very fine Edo period Japanese mixed-metal brooch depicting a crane standing underneath flowering cherry trees alongside a rushing stream. The gold and silver details glisten against the coppery background. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp.

This type of work, sometimes mistakenly called “shakudo”, derives from the decorations used for samurai armor. After the demise of the samurai system in the 19th century, artisans who made mixed-metal decorations for armor turned to jewelry-making. These pieces became very popular in Europe and America when Japan was opened to trade.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1865. Size: 1” x 1-1/8”.

A lovely 14K yellow gold round brooch featuring a reverse-carved intaglio of a marlin or swordfish. The fish, recently hooked, is pictured leaping high above the waves. The crystal is nicely painted and retains its bright coloring. The crystal is set in a sunburst frame. Essex crystals first became popular during the Victorian era and usually featured sporting animals such as horses, foxes and fish, or domestic pets. They continued to be popular through the Edwardian period, but few were made after World War II. The back of the pin is marked “14K” and has the maker’s name “Crossroads”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940s. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/32” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

Handsome 14K yellow gold and sterling silver brooch signed by David Yurman. The center hexagon is set with a hematite cabochon above a collet-set round brilliant-cut pink sapphire, and is flanked with by rope-twist extensions highlighted with 14K gold banding. The back is signed “D. Yurman 14K Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3-5/16” x 1”. Weight: 16.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: hematite, 13.36 carats; pink sapphire, .2 carat.

Handsome Victorian 10K yellow gold ring in the form of two lion’s claws grasping a large old European cut garnet. The detail in the setting is excellent and the gold has a slightly rosy tint that contrasts nicely with the red stone. The garnet has a lively red color and excellent clarity. The inside of the shank has a pair of monograms. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: very good, sharp detail, slight wear to two prongs, but the stone is secure. Ring Size: 9-3/4. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.22 carats.

Pretty Victorian sterling silver pin decorated with a floral appliqué. The floral design has realistic engraved details. These pins were very popular in the late Victorian period and were made in many different variations, often with a name worked into the design. The back is fully hallmarked for Birmingham, 1890-91, and has the maker’s mark “G.A.R.”.

Origin: England, 1890-91. Condition: excellent, all original, nice patina. Size: 1-11/16” x 3/4". Weight: 3.0 grams.

Vintage pair of sterling silver screwback earrings set with 5mm and 6mm Mikimoto pearls. This is the classic style produced by Mikimoto in the mid-20th century—beautiful pearls set in the simplest possible way so that the pearls take center stage. The pearl quality is very nice—estimated at A+. They have an ivory body color with rose overtones and the luster is bright. The backs are marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/32” x 7/32”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

Lovely signed Mikimoto flower-form brooch in 18K yellow gold set with pearls. The flower petals are made up of very fine quality 6-6.5mm pearls, estimated at AA. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. The body color is white with green/rose overtones. The back of the pin is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and the gold content.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: mint. Size: 2-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.5 grams.

Beautiful 29.75” strand of pearls by Mikimoto. The 6.0-6.5mm pearls are joined with a 14K yellow gold clasp set with a 3.3mm pearl. The strand comprises 113 pearls having medium cream-rose body color with Mikimoto’s classic rosé overtones. The nacre is thick and the luster is very fine. The quality is appraised at fine AA, indicating that they just border on the elusive AAA quality. The clasp is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark. The strand is presented in its original white satin folio marked "Mikimoto Fifth Avenue".

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, securely strung; the satin folio has a champagne stain in the interior. Size: 29.75”, 6.0-6.5mm.

Accompanied by a June 2005 Bailey, Banks & Biddle written appraisal for $6,500.

Very fine pair of late Art Noveau 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The faces show a beautifully designed young woman's face stylized wisps of hair cascading around a porthole-like frame. The design is really superb. The connectors open so the cufflinks are easy to put on. The backs are marked with French 18K import marks. The rather severely stylized design suggests that they are of Belgian or German (possibly Austrian) origin.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

Wonderful French 18K gold stickpin in the form of a dragon. The detail is incredible. Raised up on his hind legs, with his wings unfurled, the dragon is exhaling tongues of flame. His tail is curled around several times before circling completely around the body to form the circular outline of the stickpin's head. The texture of the feathery wings and scaly body is superb. The back is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 9/16" diameter; overall length, 3-1/16". Weight: 3.5 grams.

Nice vintage sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with an appliqued anchor and chain. The toggle backs are hinged so that the faces lie flat against the cuff. The toggles are marked "Sterling" and also have a patent number for the toggle mechanism.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 15.25 grams.

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.