Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

An outstanding, oversized pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks fashioned as lengths of bamboo by Cartier. The surfaces are worked in the Florentine finish popular in mid-century jewelry. The "notches" in the bamboo are polished for nice contrast. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are marked "Cartier/18K/Italy" and have the serial number "26464".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 1-5/16" x 5/8"; back faces, 15/16" x 5/16". Weight: 23.3 grams.

A fine pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from bell-shaped surmounts with bands of engraved decoration and applied flowers worked in rose and green gold. Each foxtail chain ends in a small gold sphere. The earrings have an elegant look, without being too heavy for comfortable wear. The surmounts are marked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, wires are replacements. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 5.5 grams.

A really beautiful pair of double-sided Edwardian 14K white gold cufflinks, the round faces ornately pierced in design reminiscent of the rose windows in Gothic cathedrals. One face of each pair is centered with a pale blue sapphire that contrasts nicely with the surrounding white metal. The cufflinks take on a wide range of appearance depending on the color of shirt fabric showing through the piercing. The connectors are hallmarked by Taylor & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 5.3 grams.

A fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold double-sided baton cufflinks. The unusual reeded end-caps echo the center ring on each baton, giving this pair a more sophisticated appearance than most baton cufflinks. The faces are connected by heavy chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 3/4" long. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold, crystal and diamond cufflinks in the "Happy Diamond" style originally created by Chopard. The faces have circles of round brilliant cut diamonds encircling sealed crystal compartments enclosing bezel-set round brilliant diamonds that move freely. The cufflinks are similar to the Chopard design, except each compartment contains five diamonds instead of four. The diamonds are graded as I/J color with SI2 clarity. The connectors are marked "18K/750" and have the design number "D107".

Ca. 2010. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.

A lovely vintage 14K yellow gold heart pendant pave-set with 62 round brilliant rubies by Tiffany & Co. The heart is slightly domed and shimmers in vibrant red. The workmanship is simply outstanding. The back has a folding bail and a pinstem so the piece can be worn as a pin or suspended on a chain. Marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 15/16”. Weight: 6.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.5 carats.

A very attractive pair of vintage 18K yellow gold star earrings by Tiffany & Co. The stars are slightly pulled out of shape, so the design has a sense of movement, and the legs are slightly faceted for a little extra shine. The earrings have Omega backs and the original posts, which could be removed for wear as clips. Each earring is signed "Tiffany & Co.", is marked "750" for 18K gold, and is dated 1983.

Origin: America, 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16" x 7/8". Weight: 11.3 gr.

Very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a coiled snake. The head is set with an old European cut green tourmaline. The engraved detailing is very nice. The snake motif in Victorian jewelry, often used to represent eternal love, became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as her betrothal gift. Hallmarked with the French "tete de cheval" and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-15/32” overall length; snake, 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. Each rectangular face is bead-set at one end with a round brilliant cut blue sapphire. Engraved lines emanate from the gemstones in a sunburst pattern. The sapphires are a medium dark strongly saturated blue in color and contrast nicely with the bright gold. The backs are marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 23/32” x 1/2”. Weight: 17.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .40 carat.

NOTE: We are offering a matching tie bar as Item #1001380.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stone. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 23 mm (3/4 x 29/32 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 14.1 gr.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1233381).

An elegant pair of Art Nouveau floral double-sided floral cufflinks worked in 20K yellow gold. The faces are very finely hand-chased with an ornate pattern of daisies. The high gold content gives the cufflinks are very bright yellow color and heavy weight. The connecting chains are marked with an illegible maker's mark and a continental European mark for 20K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16" x 11/32". Weight: 7.8 grams.

An extraordinary modernist fringe necklace in 18K yellow gold and green tourmaline by the famed Brazilian modernist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre ("free form") gemstones in 1948, and the technique became his signature. Most often, he used colorful stones native to Brazil—tourmalines, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, etc. The tourmalines in this necklace are of the finest quality, with pure deep green coloring that contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting. Burle Marx never used pre-cast elements in his jewelry, and each piece was completely raised by hand from a gold ingot. All the plain gold links are accented with a brushed texture, and the links set with tourmalines have a contrasting florentined finish. The back of the clasp is stamped with Burle Marx's signature and 18K marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.

NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).

A stunning French 18K yellow gold and diamond pansy brooch in the Art Nouveau taste. The petals are beautifully decorated in translucent enamels shading from silvery white to cream to rose. The outer ruffled edge of each petal is outlined in small rose cut diamonds. The pansy is centered by a larger rose cut diamond of unusually good color and clarity. As is typical of 19th century French jewels, the diamonds are set in silver. Each petal is cast separately and then attached to the others with a screw mechanism. The back has a replaced pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, one 1/8" area of flaking enamel visible under magnification. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 18.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.385 cts.

Fine Napoleon III 18K yellow gold pansy brooch, the upper large petals accented with a lacy pierced floral border and the lower petals with a row of alternating rose cut diamonds and antique cushion cut rubies. The gold surfaces have a matte finish that mimics the velvety texture of pansy blossoms. Delicate engraving brings out the veining on the lower petals. The diamonds and rubies are of fine color. In the Romantic language of flowers, the pansy was used to symbolize remembrance (the French word for pansy is the same as the word for thought). The diamond and ruby border is faintly heart-shaped, perhaps adding another layer of secret meaning. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp fully stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-7/32". Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .37 ct; ruby, .72 ct.

An interesting and attractive pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as reeded batons. The batons have a concealed spring-loaded mechanism that attaches to swivel hinges on the pair of struts that hold the batons in place. We've never before seen this particular mechanism. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K marks and also with the mark of the Parisian jeweler Gaétan de Percin. De Percin opened his studio in 1938 and executed designs for Hermès, Dior, Chanel, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: ecellent; all original. Dimensions: batons, 3/4 in. long. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A very fine and heavy vintage 14K yellow gold necklace by Tiffany & Co. The timeless braided design is enhanced by the gradual tapering of width from the center toward the clasp. The flat braided construction allows the necklace to life flat against the throat. This design has been reinvented several times over the years, and this piece likely dates from the 1960s. It is not currently available, but chains of similar weight are available from Tiffany in the $5,000 range. The clasp is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 16-1/4” long; 3/8” wide at center. Weight: 31.2 gr.

A nice pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with 12x14mm oval cabochons of green jadeite. The gold settings are hand-pierced in a foliate pattern. The jade is semi-translucent with moderate color mottling and a fine grain. The toggle connectors are marked “14K”.

Ca. 1950. Size: 7/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.9 grams.

A vintage sterling silver money clip in the form of a dollar sign. The reverse is hallmarked by R. Blackinton & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/4" long. Weight: 10.9 grams.