Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

Very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a coiled snake. The head is set with an old European cut green tourmaline. The engraved detailing is very nice. The snake motif in Victorian jewelry, often used to represent eternal love, became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as her betrothal gift. Hallmarked with the French "tete de cheval" and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-15/32” overall length; snake, 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A wonderful Victorian 18K yellow gold curb link chain interrupted at regular intervals with bi-color ("watermelon") tourmaline beads. The chain is finished with a fantastic clasp in the form of a lady's hand grasping floral-engraved loop. At 39" in length, the necklace can be worn doubled or perhaps even tripled. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 39" long. Weight: 67.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 215.0 carats.

A nice 18K gold figural stick pin in the form of a bear, nicely detailed with engraved fur. The stem is spiraled, indicating an earlier date. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 5/8” x 5/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 3.5 gr.

Excellent pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold drop earrings with Mediterranean coral beads. The earrings are quite heavy and are very well constructed with closed backs that make them attractive from behind, as well. The coral has the nice, even coloring of fine Mediterranean coral from the coast of Italy. The original earwires have been replaced with screwbacks, but because of the way the earrings are constructed, there were no alterations to the earrings themselves. They could easily be re-converted to wires. The gold has a slightly rosy color that complements the coral nicely. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

Elegant pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated with a stamped pattern of baskets filled with diamond-set flowers. The single-cut diamonds, though small, are of very good quality and are a nice contrast to the gold. The gold surfaces have the bloomed texture usually seen in French jewelry of the period. The connecting chains are hallmarked for 18K gold and are signed “R.W.C.”.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A stunning pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face comprising a large oval mixed-cut rhodolite garnet set in a foliate-engraved border. The garnets have the lovely reddish-purple hue so prized in rhodolites. The faces are connected by chains and are fully hallmarked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.36 carats.

A very nice Victorian 9K gold buckle ring, fully engraved with an ornate floral and foliate pattern against a stippled background. The gold has faint rose tint. The ring shows almost no wear. The width of the band and larger finger size make this ring ideal for man. The interior of the shank is fully stamped with Chester hallmarks for 1896.

Origin: England, 1896. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/16" at the buckle, tapering to 5/32" at the back. Finger Size: 9-3/4. Weight: 4.5 gr.

A classic late Victorian gold padlock clasp. These were used mostly for bracelets but could also be used with necklaces. Today, they are often worn as charms or in their original function. In Victorian jewelry symbolism, padlocks represented the unbreakable bonds of love. The padlock with stamped with the English 9ct mark, but the jump tests as 14K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 13/16” (1-1/16” with jump ring)
• Weight: 2.0 grams

Very nice pair of Victorian 14K gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts or Aesthetic style. The simple engraved decoration of the gold faces, suggestive of a Celtic design, is typical of jewelry in the Aesthetic taste, as is the use of matrix gemstones such as turquoise. These stones were valued more for their appearance than for their intrinsic worth--another characteristic of Aesthetic jewelry. The back faces are plain gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Ca 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms. Size: 3/4” x 21/32”. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A fine Victorian 14K gold fob locket, the front cover worked in a deeply three dimensional design of a rose gold owl perched on a green gold branch. The eyes are set with garnet cabochons. The back cover has an engraved shield design that was never monogrammed. The hinged bail is engraved in a complimentary design. The interior of the locket retains its original frame and glass insert.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-3/8" (not including jump ring). Weight: 13.7 grams.

n superb pair of Aesthetic period 18K yellow gold and ruby double-sided cufflinks. The faces are decorated in a swirling pattern pinwheel-type pattern faintly suggestive of the curling limbs of an octopus. Each face is centered with an intensely colored natural ruby. The faces are joined with figure-eight connectors. The back of each face is stamped “18K” and with the unidentified maker’s mark “O.W.S’S.S”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 5/8” x 1/2"
• Weight: 13.2 grams

An unusually nice Victorian gold-filled locket in the aesthetic taste. The front features a marsh scene of reeds and flowers growing alongside the water’s edge, all worked in different shades of gold. The design is enclosed within an engraved border. The back of the locket is engraved with multiple designs akin to a crazy quilt.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent, no wear to gold
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring)

A superb American silver locket and chain necklace from the Victorian era. The book chain is enhanced with three rows of lapidary-cut silver balls. The locket’s cover is decorated with an engraved scene of an egret, bamboo, reeds and a fan in the Japonaise style popular during the Aesthetic period. The interior retains the original frames on either side. The chain can be worn without the locket as a 17” necklace or, with the drop chain in place at the back, as a 19-1/4” necklace. American chains of this style are far more uncommon than English chains. Tested and guaranteed silver.

• Origin: America, ca. 1885
• Condition: chain is excellent; locket has one pinpoint ding to the front and several to the back
• Dimensions: necklace, 17” to 19-1/4”; locket, 1-3/8” x 1-3/4” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 95.3 grams

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with with oval brilliant-cut amethysts set in simple 10K yellow gold collets. The amethysts have nicely saturated, even color that would look particularly good with a white or light blue cuff. The faces are fairly large, so they are connected with a removable s-link for ease in putting them through a buttonhole. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1870.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 11/16" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 19/32" x 7/16".
• Weight: 11.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.8 carats

Centered with an intensely violet amethyst, this Victorian pendant will add a pop of rich color to any wardrobe. The gold setting in a fleur-de-lis pattern is adorned with natural seed pearls that contrast beautifully with the intense color and brilliance of the large amethyst. This piece was originally a brooch, but now has new life as a wearable pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1890.
• Excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 6.3 grams.
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 10.25 carats.

Wonderful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a flying dragon. The coiled body is covered with finely detailed scales and the wings are detailed with webbing. The dragon clasps a small prong-set single-cut diamond in its jaws. The surfaces have the soft matte bloom or “Russian finish” that was often used in the Art Nouveau period. The pinstem is illegibly hallmarked. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: head, 11/16” x 11/16”; overall length, 2-1/2” long. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau bracelet comprising a series of round floral plaques, each hinged separately for comfort. The center five plaques are set with a round brilliant cut ruby at the middle of each blossom. The rubies have a strong purplish-red color that contrasts nicely with the yellow gold. Each plaque is pierced around the flower petals for added delicacy. The concealed clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.02 cts.

An Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold pin featuring a beautifully enameled morning glory enclosed in a gold whiplash frame. The flower petals and leaves have very fine enameling in translucent shades of rose, cream and green. The enamel has the iridescent finish more often seen in the best quality enameled pieces from Newark workshops. A small pearl peeks out the top of the morning glory. The gold frame is set with rows of rose cut diamonds. Since the morning glory opens and withers in a single day, some charts of Victorian flower language say the flower was used to represent "love in vain." The pinstem is stamped "18Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1". Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A very fine and rare Bohemian garnet pendant featuring an openwork butterfly pave set with rose-cut garnets and enclosed within a heart-shaped gilt metal frame. Most Bohemian garnet jewelry was made in the more traditional styles popular in England and America, but this pendant--in the more stylized Germanic Jugendstil--is particularly striking. Some of the butterfly's wings are set with large, deeply colored stones, while others are set with smaller, brighter stones to provide contrast. The pendant is completed with a 20-inch gold-filled chain.

Origin: Bohemia, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; chain is a later addition. Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/2 x 2-7/8".

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces enhanced with translucent guilloche enamel in French blue surrounded by a raised laurel wreath border. The faces are attached by arched conectors to beanbacks. Each cufflink is stamped with Carter, Gough & Co.'s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no dings to gold; normal light wear to enameled surfaces visible under magnification but not apparent to the unaided eye. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1/2". Weight: 7.4 grams.

An exceptional pair of Victorian carved ivory and 9K yellow gold earrings. The earrings are fashioned as exquisitely detailed cherubs, each suspending three elongated drops. The drops are arranged in the typical girandole style with the central piece hanging lower than the outer elements. The cherubs are fully three-dimensional and the feathered carving on the backs is as fine as that on the front. The ivory has a very nice patina. The style and exceptional quality of carving indicates the ivories were likely carved in Italy, whereas the use of 9K gold suggests they were mounted as jewelry in England. Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter can be seen wearing an ivory cherub brooch quite similar to these in one of her portraits. The girandole style emerged in French jewelry in the early 1700s and remained popular throughout the century. The ornate style returned to popularity during the Rococo Revival around 1870. The wires are stamped with French import marks for 9K. Victorian ivory earrings of this quality are quite uncommon, and we were fortunate to acquire two exceptional pairs from the same source.

Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.

A colorful butterfly, it’s old mine cut diamond and sapphire body sporting wings studded with rubies, rose cut diamonds and emeralds, stands atop a diamond-encrusted twig in this gorgeous late Victorian jewel. Victorian butterfly jewels usually portray the insect with its wings spread in a rather rigid fashion. This pose is far more naturalistically attractive. The stones together weigh close to 3 carats, and all have excellent color. The piece appears to have been converted from a brooch into a pendant with the addition of a hidden bail at the back. Tested and guaranteed 18K. The contemporary chain is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: probably France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/4”; chain length, 18”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.20 cts; sapphire, .38 ct; ruby, .67 ct; emerald, .63 ct
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A pretty Victorian stick pin, the head in the form of an enameled pansy centering a 1-point old mine-cut diamond. The petals are detailed in shades of white, lavender and black. The coloring is applied in a way that makes the petals look ruffled. In the Victorian language of flowers, the pansy represented remembrance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, there are some enamel imperfections at the edges of the petals that are original to the making. Size: head, 1/4" x 1/4"; overall length, 2-1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

Extremely fine Victorian memorial ring in 18K yellow gold, the shoulders with glossy black taille d’epargne enamel and engraved foliate decoration. A shield-shaped black and white sardonyx cartouche crowns the ring and covers a hair compartment visible through the beveled rock crystal cover on the inside of the ring. The inside of the shank is engraved “Thomas Bland 1857 Obt 23 March 68 years” and the compartment holds a woven plaque of his gray hair. The back inside of the shank is fully hallmarked for Birmingham 1856-57, with the maker’s mark “TM”. This is certainly one of the finest memorial rings we’ve seen.

Origin: England, 1857. Condition: virtually mint. Size: 8-1/4. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A pretty 18K yellow gold pendant in a shape that suggests a pair of wings, each set with rose cut diamonds. The design is completed with an additional diamond at the top in a buttercup setting. The pendant was likely fashioned from a larger piece of jewelry that was no longer fashionable. The reverse is stamped with a goldsmith’s mark and also with the Birmingham date mark for 1849. The jump ring is 14K.

• Origin: Birmingham, England, 1849
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 11/16” (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat
• Weight: 1.9 gram

Pretty Victorian sterling silver pin decorated with a floral appliqué. The floral design has realistic engraved details. These pins were very popular in the late Victorian period and were made in many different variations, often with a name worked into the design. The back is fully hallmarked for Birmingham, 1890-91, and has the maker’s mark “G.A.R.”.

Origin: England, 1890-91. Condition: excellent, all original, nice patina. Size: 1-11/16” x 3/4". Weight: 3.0 grams.

A nice extra-wide Victorian silver cuff bracelet engraved in an ornate Persian-inspired design. The bracelet is hinged, and the back side is unengraved. The width of the bracelet lends a very imposing look. Tested and guaranteed sterling silver.

• Origin: America, ca. 1875
• Condition: excellent, only two pinpoint dings on the back side
• Dimensions: 6-1/4” circumference, 1-7/16” wide
• Weight: 31.9 grams

A fine Victorian shell cameo pendant/pin depicting Diana, goddess of the hunt, the moon and nature (Artemis in Green mythology). The setting is beautifully worked in the Etruscan taste with delicately formed bead, wire and rosette decoration. The carving makes nice use of the shell's coloring to add details to the goddess' gown. She holds three of her attributes—a bow, a quiver of arrows and a crescent moon tiara. Diana/Artemis, being a virgin goddess, was regarded as the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is indistinctly signed by the artist. The back retains the original pinstem and pendant hook. The clasp is a slightly later replacement in 10K. The pinstem is stamped for 12K gold and the setting is tested and guaranteed 12K.

• England, circa 1865
• Excellent condition; clasp replaced; no cracks to shell
• 2-5/32" x 1-3/4"
• 14.25 grams

A fine Victorian 14K gold and platinum locket ornately decorated in the Etruscan style with a lily pond scene. The scene includes rose gold cattails, green gold lily pads, and platinum lily blossoms. The remainder of the locket is enanced with ropetwists, wire work, and appliques. The locket opens at the back to reveal a photo compartment. The locket is completed iwth its original matching bail.

• Origin: America, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent; a few minor pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 2-3/16" (including bail)
• Weight: 14.6 grams

A Victorian shell cameo depicting Aurora/Eos, goddess of the dawn set in a 14K gold frame decorated in the Etruscan taste withe beads and rosettes. The goddess is shown with her chief attribute, a pair of feathered wings in her hair (not to be confused with Psyche who has butterfly wings). The back retains the original pinstem and folding bail, but the clasp is an old replacement. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1870
• Excellent condition; no cracks to shell; replaced clasp
• 1-11/16" x 1-5/16"
• 7.4 grams

A very pretty pair of Victorian earrings fashioned as lapis lazuli orbs suspended from 14K gold caps decorated with Etruscan beading and rope-twist motifs. The lapis has a beautiful deep violet-blue color of near-Afghan quality with just a small amount of white calcite. The ear wires appear to be original. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: spheres, 1/2" diameter; 1-1/4” long from top of earwires
• Weight: 9.8 grams

An impressively sized 14K gold locket ornately decorated in the Etruscan style with rosettes, shaped appliques, and rope twists. The center features a bouquet worked with rose gold foliage and platinum blossoms and buds. Exposed areas of gold have a soft bloomed finish. The back features an oval hinged locket opening. The locket retains the original matching bail. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1860
• Condition: excellent, a few very minor dings on the back locket cover
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 2-5/8 long (including bail)
• Weight: 18.0 grams

A beautifully-carved hardstone cameo depicting Libertas, the Roman goddess of liberty. She can be identified from the shape of the diadem she wears in her hair. The image is quite similar to American "Morgan" silver dollars from the late 19th century. The color contrast of the stone is quite remarkable. The carnelian cameo is set into an intricate gold setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The back has both a brooch fitting and a hidden bail for wear as a pendant. The back is stamped "14K" and also has the maker's mark for Perley Bros.

NOTE: The piece is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no cameo damage.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-3/16".
• Weight: 6.8 grams. Fabulous late Victorian hardstone cameo brooch. The carnelian cameo represents "Liberty" and is very similar to the Liberty head that appeared on "Morgan" silver dollars and quarters of the period. The 14K mounting is floridly decorated with millegraining, applied beads and rosettes, and rope twist borders. The reverse retains its original pinstem and modified c-clasp. The reverse is marked 14K and is signed for the maker, Perley Bros. of New York. Origin: America, 1870s. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-1/4".

A Victorian 14K yellow gold and coral pendant necklace in the Etruscan Revival taste. The central plaque is enhanced with a pair of natural color coral beads and suspends torpedo drops and a chain swag. The plaque was originally a brooch, but it has been given new life as an elegant necklace! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, circa 1860,
• Condition: Excellent.
• Dimensions: overall length, 17"; pendant, 1" x 1.5".
• Weight: 5.2 grams.

A spectacular demi-parure comprising a pair of earrings and a pendant/brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with Persian turquoise. The earrings have round surmounts decorated with applied bead and ropetwist decoration in the Etruscan Revival taste suspending ornately geometrical elements set with square turquoise cabochons. The pendant is made to match and has a bail that remains hidden when worn as a brooch. The turquoise is very well-matched. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, one stone at the bottom of the pendant has darkened to green (typical of Victorian turquoise). Dimensions: earrings, 2-7/8" long from top of earwire; pendant/brooch, 3" x 1-1/4". Weight: 39.6 gr.

A lovely pair of classic Victorian earrings in the Etruscal Revival style featuring free-hanging drops of rich violetish-blue drops of lapis lazuli. The 15K yellow gold mountings are enhanced with twisted wire and bead decoration. The lapis is of the finest Afghan quality, with even color and only one tiny fleck of pyrite. The wires are marked "15 Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: length from top of wire, 1-3/4".