Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A handsome pair of early Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed in a sort of "Prince of Wales feather" pattern. Each face is highlighted with three old mine cut diamonds in milligrained platinum collet settings. The diamonds have nice color and are well-set for maximum sparkle. The faces are pierced to emphasize the three-dimensionality of the design. The baton backs are attached with chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .74 carat.

A handsome pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring a textured finish accented with twisted rope borders. Each face is centered with a strongly-colored blue sapphire. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1950.

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: 5/8" diameter.

Weight: 11.2 grams

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .52 carat.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the snaffle bit (“mors de filet”) or flip-up style modeled on a horse bit. The circular faces are simply enhanced with tubular concentric rings. The design is elegant, but casual enough to wear with a sport coat or event jeans. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A beautiful 14K yellow gold floral pin by Tiffany & Co. Pointed, swirled petals surround a central diamond and blue sapphire cluster. The prong-set, brilliant-cut stones have excellent bright color and clarity as expected of Tiffany. This brooch is an excellent example of the sort of stylized floral gem-set designed that Tiffany produced for daywear toward the end of the retro period and in the very early 1950s. The back is marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; sapphire, .28 carat.

PLEASE NOTE: We are also offering the matching earclips (Item #490782).

A beautifully-detailed semi-nude woman peeks out from the center of a pink enameled flower in this Art Nouveau pendant and brooch. Her hair is adorned with a diamond-centered white enameled flower and she wears a diamond necklace. The background flower petal are worked in translucent iridescent enamels in shades of pink fading to cream at the edges. The back of the pendant retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark "7VI".

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage except perhaps a small nick to one of the white flower petals visible only under magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Weight: 5.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set aquamarine. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent enamel in shades of blue, green and cream. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored aquamarine. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an amethyst and enameled in shades of violet (Item #1414819)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; two 1/16" enamel nicks barely visible without magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.25 grams
• Approximate Total Aquamarine Weight: .7 carat.

An interesting interpretation of the Art Deco stirrup style for cufflinks, this set features broad gold bands hinged at the top of the arch. The sides snap together and when being worn, the cufflinks circle around the outside of the cuff. The cufflinks are enhanced with a deeply engraved basketweave design. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/8” x 1”. Weight: 14.4 grams.

An attractive pair of mid-20th century cufflinks the faces designed as clusters of baroque freshwater pearls overlaid with gold bands centering rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearls have lustrous surfaces, but their craggy shapes give them a more masculine appeal. The gold bands are enhanced with stippled engraving for added texture, and the small diamonds add a little sparkle without being overwhelming. The cufflinks are heavy and are very well constructed. These look particularly good worn with medium-blue or dark-colored shirts. The toggles are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2” x 3/4". Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 carat.

A nice pair of mid-Victorian earrings worked in chocolate brown lava set with pearls in 14K yellow gold. The earrings are designed as two acorns flanking an elongated amphora form surmounted by a lady’s head. The girandole arrangement (three elements suspended from a single element at the top) is relatively rare among lava earrings. Archaeological Revival lava jewelry from Pompeii was a very prized souvenir of a wealthy visitor’s Grand Tour through Italy due to the ongoing excavations there that accelerated in the late 1860s. The small pearls are natural and have excellent color and luster. Tested and guaranteed 15K gold.

• Italy & England, ca 1870
• Condition: excellent, no chips
• Dimensions: 3/4” wide; 1-15/16” long
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A heavy pair of 14K yellow gold Tiffany & Co. double-sided cufflinks, the faces decorated in an austere pattern of diagonal lines. The design creates the illusion of two different shades of gold for a classic look. The faces are marked 14K and Tiffany & Co. The connectors have the maker’s mark for L. E. Garrigus & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 17/32” x 17/32”. Weight: 13.6 grams.

This classic U.S. Navy ring is something of an oddity—it was custom-made in France! The ring is an older style with shoulders depicing an American eagle surmounting a stars and stripes shield over the letters “USN”. The crown is set with an oval cabochon of almandine garnet surrounded by the words “United States Navy,” the words separated by stars. The garnet has an intense deep red color that contrasts handsomely with the gold. The design elements of the ring suggest an early 20th century period. The shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an unidentified French goldsmith’s mark. The ring is hand-engraved, so was likely a custom order by an American gentleman from a Parisian jeweler.

• Origin: France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; light wear consistent with age, but the design is clear.
• Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 1/8” at the shank.
• Finger Size: 11-1/4.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 1.65 carats.

A buff-cut oval amethyst perfectly offsets the superb gold setting in this Edwardian 14K gold gentleman’s ring. The stone sits in a high setting that is intricately engraved with classic motifs such as pendant bellflowers, swags, and fans that bridge the Edwardian period into early Art Deco. The ring is large, but the relatively light color of the amethyst and the use of smooth buff cut instead of full faceting keeps it from being overpowering. A woman could easily wear the ring, as well. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: shank tapering from 5/32” at the back to 1/2" wide at the front; 1/4” height from finger
• Finger Size: 9-1/2
• Weight: 8.29 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 4.11 carats

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the "stirrup" style popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s. The cufflinks are constructed from a solid bar, finished at each end with interlocking arches. By pulling on the ends, the arches can be unfolded for each in putting the cufflinks through the cuff holes. Then, a simple flip up causes the arches to hold the fabric tightly together. Cufflinks of the sort are seen in a number of variations, but this is a particularly handsome pair. The bars are marked with French 18K gold hallmarks, and also with an unidentified maker's mark "GP".

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 3/4" x 9/16". Weight: 11.5 grams.

A fine pair of mid-century modern 14K yellow gold and diamond cufflinks by Larter. The heavy gold faces are decorated with parallel lines and the canted edges are bead-set with brilliant round-cut diamonds. The diamonds are of very good quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The stones are set in white gold enhanced with milgrain borders. The backs are completed with the older type of toggle mounting. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950.

Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 1/2".

Weight: 13.5 grams.

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

Condition: excellent; all original.

Sterling silver watch fob by George W. Shiebler. An outstanding example of the "Medallion" or "Curio Medallion" line, this watch fob is comprised of a horizontal log-like bar inscribed with the Greek letters "XAPIE" suspending five discs depicting Greek gods and goddesses. Pictured from left they are Zeus, unknown, Pallas Athena, unknown, and Mercury. The two unknown images are female and probably depict Aphrodite, Hera or Demeter. The surfaces are hand worked and intentionally "distressed" so that the piece appears to truly be an ancient jewel. The handmade chain is original to the fob. The back is stamped with Shiebler's hallmark, the retailer's mark for Bailey, Banks & Biddle, and the pattern number "1043". All Shiebler Medallion pieces are rare, but this is the first complete watch fob we've seen. It could be extended with a few links to be worn as a bracelet.

Origin: America, 1880-90. Condition: all original, light wear from normal use. Size: fob, 1-3/4" x 1-7/16"; overall length, 6-9/16". Weight: 18.5 grams.

A lovely Victorian starburst pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with an old mine cut diamond at the center. Stars in Victorian jewelry symbolized guidance and wisdom. Most Victorian starbursts have straight rays, but the Art Nouveau-influenced curlicue design of this example makes it especially nice. The diamond at the center has good brilliance, I/J color and VS1 clarity. The pendant retains the original brooch fitting, as well, but it is very well hidden when being worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K (the newer bail is marked 10K).

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .35 carat
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A very good pair of 14Kyellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces enhanced with foliate engraving around the edges and centering .25-carat old European diamonds. The torpedo backs are decorated with matching foliate engraving. The diamonds are unusually large for cufflinks of this period and are of excellent quality, graded as I color and VS1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 1/2” x 3/4”. Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

An elegant pair of Edwardian 14K gold and platinum double-sided cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are set with plaques of black mother of pearl within engraved platinum borders. The faces are centered by natural seed pearls. The mother of pearl has strong iridescence, primarily in rose shades, against the silvery gray body color. Black mother of pearl is much less common than the lighter colors and creates a striking effect. The bright-cut engraving of the platinum borders adds a touch of sparkle. The backs of the faces are signed “Tiffany & Co.” and are marked “14K” and “Plat & Gold”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” (15 mm) diameter. Weight: 9.3 grams.

An extremely fine 14K white gold and pearl brooch by Mikimoto. Even by Mikimoto’s standards, the pearls are particularly good quality, with cream body color and strong rose overtones. The pearls are also quite generously sized, ranging from 7.85mm to 8.35. The surfaces have only slight natural blemishes and offer superb, clear reflections. AA pearls of this size were only rarely used by Mikimoto in brooches, as they were more often set aside for use in strands. The back of the pin is signed with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark and is marked “WG 14K”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 14.0 grams.

This 23-1/2" 18K yellow gold box chain is heavy enough for a large pendant or locket. Box chains are especially attractive with more contemporary designs, and unlike some other chain styles, they don't crimp or become easily tangled. In addition to the primary clasp, the chain also has a safety chain. Marked with French 18K gold hallmarks and master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France.
• Condition: excellent; one spring ring has been replaced with a gold filled spring ring.
• Dimensions: length: 23-1/2"; width 1.5mm.
• Weight: 11.1 grams.

A classic Mikimoto ring featuring a cluster of 6.3mm pearls crowned with a star of six round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The pearls have fine luster, with cream body color and rose overtones, and are graded AA. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s hallmark and for 18K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 ct.

A handsome Victorian gentleman's ring in a substantial 14K gold setting. The ring features a masculine brown smoky quartz with flashes of goldish-orange brilliance. The setting is enhanced with ornate strapwork against a stippled background. The setting holds the stone well above the finger and the overall look is very weighty. The interior of the shank is stamped "14k."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Finger Size: 10-1/4.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" wide at back of shank.
• Weight: 13.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.44 carats.

A heavy pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces edged in a border of channel-set rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The gold surfaces have a lightly, engraved Florentine finish ideal for monogramming. The toggle backs are marked "14K". Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" x 5/8". Weight: 16.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.78 carats.

A rare Art Nouveau brooch worked in 18K gold depicting Eros, the Greek god of love and harmony. “Amor” is the Latin version of his name, and English-speakers usually refer to him as “Cupid.” He is shown here with a quiver of arrows used to inflame love in the hearts of his targets. The quiver’s strap is set with small rose cut diamonds for an added bit of sparkle. The name “Amor” is included in the design to the left of Amor’s head. The brooch is signed “F Vernon” for Frédéric-Charles-Victor de Vernon, a noted French medallist and sculptor. This particular design was first exhibited by Vernon at the 1903 Paris Salon. The back is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1903
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A handsome pair of late Victorian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold with platinum accents around oval bloodstone cabochons. The combination of metal colors against the deep blackish-green and red of the bloodstone is quite striking. The faces are attached with bar connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

NOTE: Bloodstone is very difficult to photograph due to its dark coloration. Some of the photos shown here were backlit to show the translucency of the stones, but in normal lighting the appear opaque greenish-black with subtle red mottling.

• Origin: America, ca 1905
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 9/16”
• Weight: 8.8 grams

An elegant pair of Imperial Russian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the round faces set with with a pair of cushion-cut blue sapphires and a pair of cabochon rubies. The stones are good quality, with intensely saturated color. Chains connect the fronts to torpedo backs. Each cufflink is stamped with the Russian marks for 14K (56 zolotniks) and for the assay-master Alexander Romanov, (St. Petersburg).

Origin: Russia, 1904-08. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .45 ct; ruby, .56 ct.

A classic pair of barbell cufflinks in 14K yellow gold and onyx by Tiffany & Co. Each cufflink features one sphere in onyx and another in gold, so they can be worn with either the gold or black showing from the front. The cuffinks are marked "585" for 14K gold and "Tiffany & Co."

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/16" diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr.

A classic 14K yellow gold "Tree of Life" pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-level Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 4.89 to 6.79 mm. The pearls are of exceptional AAA quality, with cream body color, rose overtones, a bright luster. The back is marked with Mikimoto's oyster shell signature.

• Japan, circa 2010
• Excellent condition
• 1 1/4" x 1 11/16"
• 8.2 grams

A lovely 14K gold pendant necklace featuring a colorfully enameled violet blossom centered with a seed pearl and suspending a freshwater pearl. The flower petals and leaves are enhanced with translucent enamels in shades of purple, green, yellow and burgundy. In Victorian flower symbology, the violet represented "modesty." The pendant is suspended from its original chain, marked 14K on the clasp. The pendant is unmarked, but tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: pendant, 3/8" x 15/16"; chain length, 16"
• Weight: 6.0 grams.

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush pale blue, medium blue, cream, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round diamond. The pin is unmarked but is certainly by one of the Newark jewelers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.3 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A classic pair of heavy 14K yellow gold Edwardian cufflinks. The oval faces are simply finished with an engraved border. Cufflinks of this type are usually fairly lightweight, but this pair has noticeable heft. The backs of the faces and the connectors have 14K marks.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16 in. Weight: 17.1 grams.

A lovely sentimental jewel by the esteemed London jeweler Murrle, Bennet & Co. featuring a heart-shaped citrine surmounted by a crown and a scrolling frame set with seed pearls. In Victorian symbology, a heart topped with a single crown conveyed the sentiment “ruler of my heart.” The citrine has very nice pure yellow coloring, with just a hint of orange. It would be very easy to add a small hidden ring at either end of the pin, so it can be worn from a chain. Murrle, Bennet & Co. was a leading jeweler, often collaborating with Liberty & Co. The pin is stamped “15Ct” and also has Murrle, Bennett’s hallmark.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 5.39 carats

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips, each featuring a cluster of round green tourmalines surrounded by a looping double border of gold. The tourmalines are have fine, saturated color, excellent cut and excellent clarity. The earrings are marked “18K”. The clips could easily be changed to posts.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 10.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.9 cts.

A classic French Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring a young woman with naught but a sprig of flowers covering her breasts set against a poppy blossom. A swallow appears over her shoulder. In Victorian symbology, swallows variously represented wishes for a safe return or “home and heart” since the they mate for life. Similarly, poppies had various meanings including imagination and pleasure. The design was created by the sculptor Armand-Pierre-Louis Quenard (1865-1925) and presented at the inaugural salon of the Société des Artistes Français in 1901. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker’s mark.

NOTE: The brooch could be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail to the back.

• Origin: France, ca. 1901.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A fine pair of mid-19th century 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks set with banded agate and gold-bearing quartz. The quartz is generously spotted with gold, showing only isolated areas of creamy white quartz, and the agate is nicely patterned with even bands of cream, brown and tan. Shreve & Co. was one of the first fine jewelers in San Francisco, capitalizing on the new wealth generated by the California Gold Rush. By the mid-1880’s, the store advertised its selection of jewelry made with gold bearing quartz, and it became a specialty. Today, gold quartz pieces—especially those marked by Shreve—are difficult to find. Each cufflink is signed “Shreve & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 17/32” x 7/32”.