Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A very rare pair of Victorian 14K gold bean-back cufflinks, the round faces depicting a young man and woman in Renaissance dress. The face with the man is marked “Romeo” near the border and the lady is marked “Juliette.” Note the French spelling of her name. These same medals occasionally appear in French jewels of the period. Lacking very many good Art Nouveau designers here, American designers sometimes commissioned Parisian jewelers to make certain elements such as the faces of these cufflinks that were later assembled in the U.S. as completed piece of jewelry. At others times, they simply copied the French version. The sharpness in the design, including the lightly stippled background texture, confirms that the faces were made by the original artist in Paris. The connectors are marked with Bippart, Griscom & Osborne’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: faces, France, ca 1903; remainder, America, ca 1905
• Condition: very good, sharp detail, a small seam separation on one connector bar that doesn't detract from the appearance or utility
• Dimensions: 9/16" diameter
• Weight: 6.4 grams

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

An elegant pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold, platinum and mother-of-pearl cufflinks by Carrington. The round, slightly concave mother-of-pearl faces are centered with small natural pearls and enclosed within engraved platinum borders. Both the mother-of-pearl and the pearls have very nice luster and color overtones. Each face is hallmarked by Carrington, one of the leading American manufacturing jewelers at the turn of the 20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A striking Modernist take on a traditional 18K gold floral brooch. The stark thorn-like arrangement, enhanced with Akoya pearls, has an almost brutalist style. The gold surfaces are stippled to create a matte texture that contrasts with the polished gold of the small ribbon at the base. The pearls are nice quality with ivory body color. The brooch looks equally stylish worn as a pendant. The back is stamped "18K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1960
• DIMENSIONS 2 3/16" x 1 1/2"
• WEIGHT 10.2 grams
• CONDITION excellent

A vintage Cartier “Trinity” pendant worked in 18K yellow, white and rose gold. Unlike the contemporary “Trinity” pendants that are essentially miniaturized versions of Cartier’s “Trinity” or rolling rings, this pendant is fashioned as a large yellow gold disc enhanced with tri-color gold “Trinity” rings. The gold has a soft matte finish. The pendant looks best hanging from a black silk cord, but can also be worn on a silk cord bracelet. Replacing the black silk with a leather cord, the pendant can be worn by a man. The pendant is signed “Cartier” and has the serial number “H14175”, Italian and French hallmarks, and a 1995 copyright.

Origin: France/Italy, ca. 1995. Condition: very good, normal surface wear from contact with a chain. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams.

A nice pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with blue sapphire cabochons. The rectangular faces are engraved in a sunburst pattern, with one end rolled over. A round cabochon sapphire is set in to each end of the opening created by the rolled edge. The stones have fine slightly violet-blue color and good clarity. The backs have toggle closures. The cufflinks are not signed, but are almost certainly by either Larter or Krementz. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 ct. Weight: 10.2 gr.

A very nice pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces featuring discs of mother-of-pearl surrounded by opaque white enameled borders and centered with small pearls set in platinum. The mother-of-pearl is very lustrous with nice overtones of green and rose. The white enamel borders are punctuated with small gold dots to relieve the all-white surfaces. These cufflinks would look especially good on a dark shirt. The cufflinks are unmarked, but are in a style typical of the better Newark jewelers at the beginning of the 20th century. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: faces, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carter, Gough & Howe. The faces are formed from oval mother-of-pearl plaques surrounded by borders of opaque royal blue enamel and centering small pearls. The enamel borders have exposed gold dots and engraved rims. This particular design is usually seen in white enamel, but the blue makes for a very nice contrast. The connectors are stamped “14K” and have Carter, Gough’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a 1/8” superficial enamel flake on one cufflink visible upon very close inspection in raking light. Dimensions: 1/2" X 3/4". Weight: 9.6 gr.

A pair of classic Art Nouveau 14K gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces with repousse decoration depicting a long-haired maiden. The long hair and star-set old European cut diamonds discreetly hide any of her naughty bits. The connectors are stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 9/16”
• Weight: 4.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

An elegant and playful 18K gold “Lentil” pendant studded with an array of colored diamonds—pale blue, green, canary yellow and pink—each in a round brilliant-cut. The gold surface has a matte Russian finish that contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the diamonds. Perret is one of the most acclaimed jewelry designers in America. He has won DeBeers’ diamond award twice, has been a consultant to Tiffany & Co. and has designed and manufactured a line of jewels for Mikimoto. He is most noted for his work with rare colored diamonds. The pendant looks best worn on a gold snake or wire chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Etienne Perret”, has the maker’s mark, and “18K”. Similar pendants are currently available from Perret, priced at approximately $1,200.

Origin: America, contemporary. Size: 17mm. Condition: excellent, a tiny scratch to the front surface visible upon very close inspection. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

A nice pair of modernist 14K yellow gold and pearl earrings. 5.2-millimeter pearl studs suspend faceted gold bars that, in turn, suspend open-work gold spheres studded with pearls. Each sphere comprises a dozen 4.9 millimeter cultured pearls of very good quality. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are smooth. Each of the spheres is completed with the addition of prong-set seed pearls. The spheres dangle freely and exhibit lots of movement. During the late 1950s and 1960s, scientific knowledge became an inspiration for jewelry designers who began turning pieces like “Sputnik” rings. The arrangement of the pearls and the underlying gold structure of these earrings is clearly based on atomic-level molecule models. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8” long; 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with dogs, their tails straight and one paw lifted “pointing” in classic hunting pose. The gold surfaces have slightly matte finish. The backs are stamped with Carrington’s 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings
• Dimensions: faces, 13/16” x 9/16”
• Weight: 7.1 grams

A handsome pair of Modernist 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the form of three-sided pyramids. Each side is has an incised border surrounding a bead-set round sapphire. The stones have very attractive cornflower blue color. The connectors to the toggle backs are stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 25/32" x 25/32" (20 x 20 mm)
• Weight: 11.0 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .28 carat.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A very fine Retro Moderne brooch in the form of a three-leaf clover, each leaf fashioned from an heart-shaped aquamarine, and centered with a pearl. The aquamarines are simply framed in gold collet settings with halo wirework accented with beading. The stones, 1.33 carats on either side and 1.87 carats at the top, have stunning pure blue coloring without a hint of gray. The 5.5mm pearl has an ivory body color with rosé overtones, and a very nice, lustrous surface. The back of the brooch retains the original pinstem and safety clasp, and is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: Excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 1-7/32”. Weight: 4.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.53 carats.

A very fine Victorian tortoise shell pin inlaid with gold and silver in a floral and butterfly pattern. The design is beautifully executed and is a bit more ornate than much piqué work. The inlaid metals are engraved to add even more depth to the design. The tortoise is nicely translucent when held to strong light. The back retains the original pinstem, but the clasp is a replacement.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no missing inlay, replaced clasp. Size: 1-5/8” x 1-3/16”.

PLEASE NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States.

An elegant 14K gold, Mississippi River pearl and blue sapphire floral pendant in the Art Nouveau taste suspended from a split chain. The flower petals are formed from pearls and center a blue sapphire of fine, intense color. The design is enclosed in a gold frame that resembles the shape of a pretzel! The pendant was originally a brooch and was expertly converted to a pendant by our jeweler. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900.
Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1" x 5/8"; overall necklace length, 18-7/8".
• Weight: 4.8 grams.
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.

A very attractive pair of double-sided cufflinks fashioned as oval mother-of-pearl discs centered with small seed pearls and enclosed in an opaque white enamel border, all set in yellow gold. White cufflinks such as these would originally have been worn only with white tie, but today they are particularly elegant with shirts in darker colored fabrics. The connectors are marked “14K” and have the maker’s mark for Larter & Sons.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 3/4"
• Weight: 10.9 grams

A handsome pair of 14k yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with Essex crystals depicting dogs (definitely terriers, and most likely fox terriers). The dogs are colorfully painted on the reverse-carved crystal and set against mother of pearl backgrounds. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. The toggles are stamped “14K” and have a patent number, indicating the patent was still active when the cufflinks were made.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: 17/32” (14 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 7.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no scratches or moisture damage.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

A French Retro 18K gold dragonfly brooch, the wings star-set with rubies and sapphires. The dragonfly’s body is worked in a stylized geometric design. The brooch currently has a double fur clip fastener, but would look stunning as a pendant necklace on a split chain (adding a small bail at the tip of each wing is very easy.)

• France, ca. 1935
• Excellent condition
• 1 9/16” wide & 1 3/32” long
• Weight: 6.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .20 carat; ruby, .20 carat

A pretty pair of Art Deco 12K yellow gold, coral and pearl tassel earrings. Lengths of gold chain studded with small pearls and coral beads hang freely from the pearl surmounts. The coral has attractive, uniform color and the semi-baroque pearls have especially bright luster. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn and would have paired nicely with the long chains and fringed gowns fashionable in the 1920s. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold (clutches are 14K).

Origin: England, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, except one pearl that has a flake to the nacre visible upon close inspection. Dimensions: 1-3/8" long. Weight: 3.9 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and amber earrings, the square cabochon amber simply set in the gold frame. The prongs holding the amber become an important part of the overall design. The amber has fine, even coloring with a tinge of red, and superb clarity. The backs are stamped for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Laboratorio Ruber, Milan.

Origin: Italy, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1-5/32” long to top of wire. Weight: 15.4 gr.

An unusually heavy pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces worked in an intricate engine-turned design. The faces are actually round, but the designed makes them appear octagonal. The backs are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.1 grams

A particularly nice Art Nouveau four-leaf clover honeymoon watch pin, the leaves beautifully enameled in shades of translucent green, yellow and rust. The 14K yellow gold crescent moon is set with a graduated row of pearls, while an old European cut diamond centers the clover. The back retains the original clasp and watch hook. In Victorian flower language, the clover symbolized "good luck." When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was "honeymoon," and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family. Since the meaning here is "good luck on your honeymoon," we'd have to assume that this particular pin was a gift from the bride's mother rather than from her groom. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" x 1"
• Weight: 3.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 ct

A very pretty mid-century wedding band, pierced in an intricate pattern of chapel bells and flowers. The band has nice width and the detail is very crisp. The interior is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/32" wide
• Finger Size: 7-1/2
• Weight: 4.1 grams

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces enhanced with translucent guilloche enamel in French blue surrounded by a raised laurel wreath border. The faces are attached by arched conectors to beanbacks. Each cufflink is stamped with Carter, Gough & Co.'s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no dings to gold; normal light wear to enameled surfaces visible under magnification but not apparent to the unaided eye. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1/2". Weight: 7.4 grams.

An elegant 14K rose and yellow gold bow brooch featuring a “knot” invisibly-set calibre-cut green tourmalines. The brooch is also accented with a pair of pearls set in white gold. The tourmalines have very fine bright coloring. The golden bow is worked in both a polished surface and a micro-beaded finish. The latter is a technically difficult texture to achieve and shows the hand of a master jeweler. The back of the pin is marked “RMU” and “585” for 14K gold. The back retains the original trombone clasp.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat.

A terrific pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each fashioned as a pair of ridged spheres topped with round sapphires. The gemstones have a nice medium-light violet-blue color that contrasts nicely with the gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 7/16". Weight: 6.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .392 carat.

An elegant pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum. The gold oval reserves are enhanced with engine-turned engraving in a striped pattern and are surrounded by engraved platinum borders. The backs are marked “14K-Plat” and have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1910

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 11/16”

Weight: 8.8 grams

An extremely rare pair of 18th century silver double-faced cufflinks set with old European cut colorless paste gemstones. The crystals are held in place in traditional cut-down settings typical of the period and the faces are joined with the quatrefoil connector almost always seen on this type of cufflink. The backs of the crystals are foiled in silver to provider a brighter appearance. Cufflinks such as these are usually broken up into two pairs of earrings, so it is quite uncommon to find a pair in original condition.

Origin: England, ca. 1780. Condition: excellent, original patina. Size: 17/32” diameter.

14K gold Art Nouveau pendant necklace featuring a flower set with a blue sapphire center and a seed pearl bud enclosed within a heart-shaped frame of foliage. The gold has a slightly greenish cast and is engraved to suggest the velvety leaves. Originally a brooch, the pendant now hangs on a 14K gold split chain as an elegant necklace. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1" x 1"; necklace length, 18-3/4".
• Weight: 4.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .06 carat.

An elegant Retro 14K yellow gold floral brooch, the flower head set with a ring of blue sapphires surrounding a cabochon moonstone. This classic combination of moonstone and sapphire was very popular in Retro jewelry, probably because the color of sapphires brings out the blue undertones of moonstone. The quality of the stones is very fine. The sapphires are a bright cornflower blue, and the moonstone has very good adularescence. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 13.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, .88 carat; sapphire, .43 carat.

A nice pair of oval-faced cufflinks worked in platinum over 18K gold, each face set with a 4-pt single-cut diamond and a 4-pt square step cut blue sapphire. The stones are set on the bias and are highlighted with raised platinum bars that are slightly polished to contrast with the matte finish of the surround platinum background. The faces are connected by chains to gold torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: probably continental Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original, one of the torpedo backs has a small ding on the side. Size: 5/8” x 15/32”. Weight: 4.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 carat; sapphire, .08 carat.

You know you'll live a life of good luck when you're wearing this 14K gold upturned horseshoe pendant necklace. The horseshoe is adorned with blue enameled forget-me-nots, flowers that conveyed exactly that meaning in the Victorian language of flowers. Originally a brooch, the horseshoe has been converted to a pendant with the addition of a delicate 14K gold split cable chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a brooch; excellent enamel.
• Dimensions: pendant, 7/8" x 7/8"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau gold watch pin in the form of a maiden appearing within the ruffled form of a pansy blossom. Tendrils of her hair cascade out toward the edges eventually disappearing into the veining of the flower’s petals. The back retains the original clasp and a hook to hang a watch. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. The hook could then be used to suspend a pearl or other gemstone drop. The clasp is indistinctly stamped with a mark for the karat content, and it is tested and guaranteed as 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1” x 1”
• Weight: 4.4 grams