Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1639)

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. They are usually round or oval; lozenge-shaped examples such as this are uncommon. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 6.0 grams.

A gorgeous 18K yellow gold circle brooch surrounding a spray of diamond flowers tied with a golden ribbon. The brooch dates to the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. One flower is centered with a .39-carat rose cut diamond and the other two are set with .17-carat old mine-cut diamonds. The remaining 31 diamonds in the brooch are a mix of rose-cuts, old mine-cuts and single-cuts. The stones are of particularly good quality for the period, with bright color and excellent clarity. The piece has considerably more sparkle than most French pieces of the era. The ribbon at the base is realistically engraved. The sides of the brooch have a very nicely-worked saw-pierced gallery. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp, stamped with the "tete d'aigle" mark for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.97 carats.

A lovely Victorian starburst pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with an old mine cut diamond at the center. Stars in Victorian jewelry symbolized guidance and wisdom. Most Victorian starbursts have straight rays, but the Art Nouveau-influenced curlicue design of this example makes it especially nice. The diamond at the center has good brilliance, I/J color and VS1 clarity. The pendant retains the original brooch fitting, as well, but it is very well hidden when being worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K (the newer bail is marked 10K).

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .35 carat
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.

Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".

Finger Size: 7 1/4.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks made from Georgian cut steel and garnet buttons joined with 15K yellow gold chains. The garnets have very attractive medium-bright purplish-red coloring that contrasts nicely with bright sparkle of the cut steel “gems.” The garnet cabochons are held in place with fleur-de-lis shaped prongs. The faceting style of the steel indicates they were made in an earlier period, likely no later than 1790. The connecting chains have spring rings, so one face of each link can be removed for ease in placing the cuff hole. One of the spring rings is 9K and the other is gold-filled. They can easily be replaced with 14K by any jeweler. The back of one face has a worn engraving and the date 1871—probably they year the chains were added to the then 100 year-old buttons.

Origin: England, ca. 1770/1871. Condition: very good. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 30.7 cts.

A lovely early Art Nouveau 18K gold sliding locket by the acclaimed medallist Jean-Baptiste Emile Dropsy. The front cover shows a bare-shouldered woman wearing a diamond necklace and hair ornament feeding a diamond seed to a bird in mid-flight, all surrounded by a bough of chestnut leaves. The diamond accents (“habillé”) add a bit of sparkle to the design. The bird appears to be a dove, representative of “love” in Victorian symbology, while the chestnut leaves represent the sentiment “do me justice.” Taken together, the message means some along the lines of wishfulness for being treated well in love. Dropsy was an early Art Nouveau designer and his female designs tend to be a bit more teasing Gibson Girl than the more overtly sexy nudes that came along a decade or so later. The back cover is decorated with a curved spray of roses complete with thorns. Roses were also used to symbolize love, and when thorns are present, sometimes hinted that love is not without occasional pain. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and mirrored glass, which could be replaced with photos if desired. The locket is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent, all original, a small ding on the back cover visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”
• Weight: 11.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold crystal “porte-photo” (photo carrier), the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. The crystal covers are faceted in a star design on both sides. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or other memento. They could also be used to display a “public” photo on one side and a more “private” image on the other. They are usually round or oval; a hexagonal example is rather uncommon. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-3/32” diameter (excluding bale).

A very fine and heavy pair of French 18K gold cufflinks in the Aesthetic taste. The faces are hand-pierced and patinated in a bronze-brown shade with darker highlights in the recesses. The gold surfaces are finished with a matte texture that accents the deep coloring. The center of each face is set with a blue sapphire cabochon of fine color. The faces are joined by chains. The maker’s mark is partly obscured, but we have seen the mark before (the goldsmith must have used a damaged punch, because his marks are always partially missing) on expertly-made heavy gold items with intricate piercing, often set with cabochon gemstones, from around 1880-1900. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimenions: larger faces, 13/16” x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 8.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 ct.

A fine pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the front faces decorated with ornately fashioned coiled snakes. The gold surface is treated to the soft, semi-matte bloomed finish sometimes seen in Victorian and Art Nouveau jewels. Kirby seemed particularly partial to snakes and produced several different serpent designs for cufflinks. In Victorian symbology, snakes conveyed sentiments of eternal love. Each cufflink is stamped “14K” and bears the maker’s mark for H. A. Kirby & Co.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 1/2".
• Weight: 4.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

An extraordinarily fine pair of Larter 14K gold beanback cufflinks, the faces decorated with the image of a man with wildly flailing hair and grasping a blue sapphire in his mouth. The treatment of the hair and the choice of a blue stone suggests that the image represents the God of the Seas, Poseidon (Neptune). Alternatively, it could be Zephyrus, God of the West Wind. The sapphires have bright cornflower blue color and are have eye-clean clarity. The cufflinks are marked with Larter's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: faces, 15/32" x 1/2". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .14 ct.

An elegant pair of Art Nouveau floral double-sided floral cufflinks worked in 20K yellow gold. The faces are very finely hand-chased with an ornate pattern of daisies. The high gold content gives the cufflinks are very bright yellow color and heavy weight. The connecting chains are marked with an illegible maker's mark and a continental European mark for 20K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16" x 11/32". Weight: 7.8 grams.

A very fine 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a mythological basilisk (cockatrice) pierced through with a jeweled sword. This example is entirely handmade and finished with expertly chased scales and feathers. The quality of workmanship is superb. The wings are formed separately and arranged in a manner that gives the piece great dimensionality. The outer wing is set with a round ruby of very fine color and clarity and the eye is set with a tiny cabochon ruby. The hilt of sword is set with seed pearls with a natural oval pearl at the tip. The gold surfaces have a slightly matte Russian finish. The back retains the original clasp, large watch hook and pendant loop. Many would call this creature a griffin, but with its body of a serpent and with head and wings of a bird, it is more properly considered a basilisk or cockatrice. Such creatures were popular in the late Victorian era. There is a possibility that the back is marked with a script signature, but it is far too difficult to be certain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: 40 x 40 mm (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in). Weight: 13.2 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .15 ct.

A handsome pair of late Victorian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold with platinum accents around oval bloodstone cabochons. The combination of metal colors against the deep blackish-green and red of the bloodstone is quite striking. The faces are attached with bar connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

NOTE: Bloodstone is very difficult to photograph due to its dark coloration. Some of the photos shown here were backlit to show the translucency of the stones, but in normal lighting the appear opaque greenish-black with subtle red mottling.

• Origin: America, ca 1905
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 9/16”
• Weight: 8.8 grams

A fine shakudo stickpin mounted in 18K yellow gold enhanced with a ropetwist border. The shakudo plaque represents a geisha formally dressed in a gold-flowered kimono and with an elaborate hairdo complete with ribbons and blossoms. Shakudo elements such as these were transformed by European and American jewelers after the opening of Japan to Western trade in the 1850s. The mounting is 18K (tested and guaranteed) and the pinstem is 14K (marked).

Origin: Japan & America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 15/32”; overall length, 3”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet with black taille d’épargne enameling in scrolling floral pattern. The delicate enamel design is further accented with a stippled background that adds a sense of depth.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no exterior dents. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 6-1/8” interior circumference. Weight: 9.5 gr.

A rare Victorian 14K yellow gold stick pin featuring a reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting a Chihuahua. Various dog breeds were depicted in Essex crystals, but this is the only piece we’ve seen with a dog that looks like a Chihuahua. The round setting, with its simple but finely crafted rope-twist border highlights the carved crystal. The colors are strong. The background appears to be silvered instead of the more usual mother-of-pearl. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: some oxidation to painted details. Size: head, 13/16” diameter; overall length, 2-3/4”. Weight: 6.75 grams.

An elegant Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold negligee pendant necklace, the old mine cut diamond drops formed as pansies. Pendant necklaces of this type, called negligees (from the French word for "careless"), were so called because of their assymetry. The subtle pansy design is achieved by combining three larger diamonds at the top of each cluster to represent larger petals, and two smaller petals at the bottoms. The knife edge bars suspending the clusters keeps the focus on the stones and create wonderful movement. The old mine cut diamonds (J/K color; SI1 clarity) have excellent fire for antique stones. The clasp and the pendant are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: pendant length, 1-5/8"; chain length, 17-3/8"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats.

Lovely late Victorian enameled 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a four-leaf clover. Half of each petal is decorated in shaded enamel and the other halves are set with minute seed pearls. The stickpin has the twisted stem that generally indicates an early date. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: head, 7/16” x 7/16”; 2-15/32” overall length. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A lovely pair of Victorian earrings worked in 14K yellow, rose and green gold depicting a mother bird watching over her nest of three tiny eggs. The bird is nicely three-dimensional for added interest. The design is simply finished with a zigzag border. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, earwires are replacements
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding wires)
• Weight: 5.2 grams

An elegant pair of drop earrings featuring a cushion cut ruby surrounded by rosecut diamonds and seed pearls. The diamonds are set in platinum. The whole is finished with a pierced gallery. The rubies have nice color that contrasts beautifully with the pearls and glittery diamonds. The earrings were created from a French Victorian bar pin with the addition of new 18K wires. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; converted from a pin
• Dimenions: drops, 3/8" diameter; length from top of wires, 13/16"
Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .22 carat; diamond, .10 carat
• Weight; 1.5 grams.

A handsome mid-Victorian Scottish agate pendant featuring pear-shaped cabochons of bloodstone ("heliotrope") and carnelian in a fine gold setting. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with fiolate engraving. Queen Victoria personally led the fashion for all things Scottish. Most jewels were set in silver; those set in gold were generally made in London using Scottish stones. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: Scotland/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, the piece was originally a brooch and the pinstem and clasp were removed and a bail added for wear as a pendant. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 11.1 gr.

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

A very pretty pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with pearls and seed pearls. The main bodies hang freely from the surmounts, and the bottom edges suspend free-hanging pearls, providing a lot of movement when being worn. The delicate scroll work makes a nice counterpoint to the simplicity of the pearls. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 1-3/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 6.8 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold mesh watch fob suspending a nicely detailed 14K Egyptian Revival Sphinx seal. Mesh fobs are most frequently gold-filled, but this example is solid 14K. The fittings at either end are beautifully engraved in a foliate pattern. The Sphinx seal depicts the regal creature in its traditional pose with wings swept back against the leonine flanks. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no engraving on seal. Dimesions: overall length, 6-1/8"; seal, 1 x 3/4". Weight: 30.0 grams.

A delightful mid-Victorian worked in shades of 14K rose and green gold. The small pendant/pin depicts a green gold frog against and engraved background of rose gold cattails and other marsh plants accented with green gold leaves. The overall design is really fun. The back of the pendant/pin is gold-filled, but is original. A folding bail has been added so the piece can be worn as a pendant or as a pin. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, a tiny ding underneath one of the bottom corners. Dimensions: 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 5.0 grams.

A wonderful, finely detailed 18K gold pendant / brooch featuring a cat surrounded by an ivy-covered wood wreath. The cat has bright emerald eyes and wears a platinum collar with an old European cut diamond at the front. The pendant is finely engraved to represent the cat’s fur and the wood and foliage textures of the frame. Even the back is engraved in a wood texture. Cat jewelry is extremely difficult to find—this example is one of the two best we have had in the last 20 years. Stamped “15 Ct.”

• Origin: England, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter
• Weight: 18.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .02 carat; diamond, .05 carat

Elegant pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated with a stamped pattern of baskets filled with diamond-set flowers. The single-cut diamonds, though small, are of very good quality and are a nice contrast to the gold. The gold surfaces have the bloomed texture usually seen in French jewelry of the period. The connecting chains are hallmarked for 18K gold and are signed “R.W.C.”.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A very nice pair of Victorian double-faced 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with trios of diamonds, rubies and sapphires. The diamonds are old mine cut, while the sapphires and rubies are cabochons. The colored stones are of very good color and show now indications of heat treatment. The gold surfaces are worked with the slightly matte Russian finish popular for higher quality jewelry of the period. Jewelry set with red, white and blue gemstones tended to gain popularity around key anniversaries or important events in American history. It is likely that these cufflinks date to the centennial year of 1876. The back of each face is marked 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21/32" x 13/32". Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .16 ct; sapphire, .23 ct; ruby, .23 ct.

A beautiful Second Empire 18K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with an enamel portrait of a society lady in a brightly-colored formal dress. Her ornate hairdo is studded with an ostrich plume, blue forget-me-nots, lace and small rose-cut diamonds. Interestingly, she wears a locket in the portrait, as well as a gold bracelet and a shoulder brooch. The portrait is enclosed in a frame of opaque black enamel that accents the punch-work decoration around the image. The original bail is similarly decorated. The interior retains the original frames, glass covers and French blue silk linings. The back is simply engraved with a shield reserve (never monogrammed). Stamped with French hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: no enamel damage; three dings on the reverse.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4' x 2-1/8" (including bail).
• Weight: 20.3 grams.

n superb pair of Aesthetic period 18K yellow gold and ruby double-sided cufflinks. The faces are decorated in a swirling pattern pinwheel-type pattern faintly suggestive of the curling limbs of an octopus. Each face is centered with an intensely colored natural ruby. The faces are joined with figure-eight connectors. The back of each face is stamped “18K” and with the unidentified maker’s mark “O.W.S’S.S”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 5/8” x 1/2"
• Weight: 13.2 grams

A very attractive pair of Victorian beanback cufflinks, the oval faces set with with pyrope-almandite garnet cabochons. The gemstones have a much brighter red coloring than many garnets. The gold settings are decorated with foliate scrolled borders. The backs of the faces are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.0 carats.

An elegant Belle Epoque bracelet comprising links in the Louis XVI style, set alternately with round emeralds and rose cut diamonds. The gemstones are set in crimped collets that mimic the center of each flower. Each link is hinged in a way that allows the bracelet to drape nicely on the wrist. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks and a illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long: 15/32” wide
• Weight: 17.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 carat; emerald, .06 carat

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed as fearsome lion-like gargoyles. Each snarling mouth grasps an old mine cut diamond, and the eyes are set with small emerald cabochons. The fur is pierced and detailed in a way that suggests the stone fretwork of Gothic cathedrals. The faces are joined by arch connectors to bean backs. The connectors are stamped with the mark for Schira Bros. of Cincinnati, Ohio. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1 x 9/16 inch. Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .16 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold floral pendant. The flowers are represented by small rose cut diamonds and a round brilliant ruby. The gold foliage is finely engraved in a naturalistic pattern. The brooch suspends a drop-shaped natural pearl with fine luster. The ruby, though small, has fine red color and excellent clarity. The pendant is suspended from its bale with a double chain. Fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/32” wide; 1-3/8” long (not including chain); 2-1/4” long (including chain). Weight: 4.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .16 ct; diamond, .10 ct.

A fine pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from bell-shaped surmounts with bands of engraved decoration and applied flowers worked in rose and green gold. Each foxtail chain ends in a small gold sphere. The earrings have an elegant look, without being too heavy for comfortable wear. The surmounts are marked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, wires are replacements. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 5.5 grams.

A terrific 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a German shepherd’s head. The detail work is especially well-done, with very accurate representation of the fur, the texture of the snout, etc. The pinstem is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: overall length, 3”; head, 1/2” x 9/16”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A superb Victorian shell cameo depicting Jesus wearing the crown of thorns set in a simple 18K gold frame. The cameo is beautifully carved with extraordinary detailing to the hair. The shell's shape is deeply cupped and adds wonderful depth to the design. Cameos depicting Jesus are extremely rare Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• America, circa 1860.
• Excellent condition; no cracks to shell
• 1-23/32" x 1-3/8"
• 11.2 grams

A lovely pair of Victorian 14K gold earrings featuring a rose gold lily with green gold foliage against a yellow gold background. The flower petals and leaves are stippled for added texture. The edges are finished with ornate beading, rope-twists, and appliqués. In Victorian floriography, lilies represented virtue or purity, though in Queen Victoria’s personal floriography, the white lily represented “majesty.” The earrings appear to have been converted from a pair of cuff buttons with the addition of ear wires. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America or England, ca. 1850
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” x 11/16”; 15/16” long from top of earwire
• Weight: 6.9 grams

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the square faces highlighted with a hammered texture and star-set with very good quality antique cushion-cut diamonds, sapphires and rubies. One pair is diamond and ruby and the other is diamond and sapphire. The stones show no indications of heat treatment. The ruby and sapphire are most likely from Burma and Ceylon, respectively. The use of red, white and blue stones was particularly popular around the time of the American Centennial celebration in 1876. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 6.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 ct; ruby, .05 ct; sapphire, .05 ct.

A lovely small Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with the unusual subject of a squirrel. The little fellow is depicted sitting upright munching on an acorn. The front cover is finished with a ropetwist border. The interior retains its original frame and glass insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the front; the back has a few very minor dings visible in raking light. Dimensions: 13/16" x 3/4" excluding bale. Weight: 3.8 grams.

Very nice pair of Victorian 14K gold cufflinks in the Arts & Crafts or Aesthetic style. The simple engraved decoration of the gold faces, suggestive of a Celtic design, is typical of jewelry in the Aesthetic taste, as is the use of matrix gemstones such as turquoise. These stones were valued more for their appearance than for their intrinsic worth--another characteristic of Aesthetic jewelry. The back faces are plain gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Ca 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms. Size: 3/4” x 21/32”. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

A wonderful figural fob seal depicting England’s patron St. George defeating the dragon. The design is worked primarily in silver, but the horse’s bridle, the dragon’s dorsal ridge and the saint’s spear and shield are worked in yellow gold. The gold base encloses a flat malachite that was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed sterling silver and 18K gold.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1860. Condition: very good, some light dings on the mounting around the stone consistent with age. Dimensions: 1’ x 5/8” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 15.9 gr.

A lovely pair of French Victorian 18K gold earrings set with sapphires and rose cut diamonds. Each earring features a prong-set blue sapphire surrounded by a cluster of ten rose cut diamonds, bead-set in an engraved background. The backs are finished with a hand-pierced gallery. The sapphires and diamonds have particularly good color and clarity for the period. This style of earrings was popular in the 1850's when popular hairstyles that covered the ears rendered large earrings irrelevant. Smaller earrings, "dormeuses" ("sleepers") were worn to keep the piercings open while awaiting the inevitable return of grander styles. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1855.
• Condition: very good, all original, a minor repair to one earwire.
• Dimensions: 3/8" x 9/16" (from top of earwire).
• Weight: 2.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .38 carat; diamond, .10 carat.

An attractive pair of late Victorian sterling silver cufflinks decorated with Classical medallion in the Shiebler style. The medallions depict a Greco-Roman youth and maiden. The edges are irregularly beveled to suggest antiquity. The faces are connected to baton-style backs decorated a simple foliate pattern. The connectors are marked “Sterling.”

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

A pretty Victorian fob locket, the front cover decorated with a three-dimensional image of bird tending her nest of eggs, all worked in yellow, rose and green gold. The locket is attached to a swinging bail and would originally have been worn on either a fob chain or a chatelaine, rather than as a pendant. The hinged back cover is plain and was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, back cover has a few small dings commensurate with the locket’s age. Size: overall (excluding jump ring), 1-1/4” x 1”; locket only, 3/4” x 3/4”.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings fashioned as lover’s knots, with neither beginning nor end. The gold surfaces are decorated with an ornate foliate pattern, enhanced with flush-mounted antique cushion-cut diamonds, sapphires and rubies. The gemstones are of fine quality, with deeply saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The use of red, white and blue stones was particularly popular around the time of the American Centennial celebration in 1876. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1876
• Condition: excellent; replaced wires
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” from top of wire
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .52 carat; ruby, .23 carat; sapphire, .23 carat
• Weight: 8.7 grams

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

A wonderful Victorian hinged bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold and featuring a design of crescent moons and stars. In Victorian jewelry, crescent moons were used to evoke the goddess Selene (Roman “Luna”) as a representation of feminine power while stars represented wisdom and divine guidance. The pearls’ white color further suggests “purity.” This bracelet was likely a bridal gift intended to remind the young woman that she was not going into her marriage without power and guidance. The bangle is hinged and has a generously sized safety chain, so it is quite easy to get on and off. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880
Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2” wide at front; 5/32” wide at back; inner circumference, 6-1/2”
• Weight: 14.4 grams

A nice pair of Victorian double-sided 14K yellow gold dumbbell cufflinks set with oval cabochon almandine garnets. The stones have nice, rich red coloring that picks up on the slightly rosy tint of the gold. The cufflinks are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 4.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.0 carats.

A classic Victorian double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking double links in 14K gold. Substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a large pendant or locket, the chain can also be worn wrapped three to four times around the wrist as a bracelet. The links are also open enough that the chain can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 28” long.
• Weight: 18.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Art Nouveau pendant depicting Erato, the goddess muse of lyric poetry, by the noted French medallist Lucien Joseph René Janvier (b 1878). The goddess is depicted with a crown of laurel leaves on her flowing hair and with a cithara (ancient lyre-like instrument), her traditional emblem in the background. Janvier was particularly known for his medallist jewels and his shortened signature appears in the design just behind the goddess’ head. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4 x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 13.8 gr.

A large 15K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an applied floral motif. The flower’s petals are set with Persian turquoise cabochons while the leaves are set with seed pearls. The pearls and turquoise are of good quality, with bright coloring that enhances the dramatic appeal of this large locket. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, interior frame intact. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 18.0 gr.

A delightful pair of cufflinks worked in 14K yellow, rose and green gold. Each cufflink depicts a woodland scene with an owl in a tree, a rabbit standing on his hind legs, various flowers and plants, and a moonlight starry sky. The combination of an owl along with a rabbit represents the concept of "night" and "day." These cufflinks were originally cuff buttons and were converted to cufflinks using the original parts. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 12.4 grams.

A very rare Victorian 15K rose gold brooch in the form of the Princes of Wales’ feathers set with Scottish jasper and bloodstone. The feathers are joined with a crown and a banner with the Prince’s motto “Ich Dien.” The gold surfaces are ornately engraved. The back bears a registry mark, dating the brooch to 1891, the 50th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s eldest son's investiture as Prince of Wales. Due to his mother’s extraordinarily long life, he was the first prince to mark a half-century in that position. Upon his succession, he ruled as Edward VII. Scottish agate jewelry was rarely set in gold, and this is one of the finest examples we’ve seen. The back is stamped with the registry (patent) number. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, 1891.
• Condition: excellent; no stone damage or wear to gold; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”.
• Weight: 6.2 grams.

An imposing 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds. A row of alternating old mine cut diamonds and cushion cut sapphires stretches across the top of the bracelet, flanked on either side by a row of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The sapphires, each of about .75 carat, are of outstanding quality, with vibrant pure blue coloring, eye-clean clarity, and a velvety appearance. The diamonds, each of about .6 carat, are graded as G/SI1. The bangle is double-hinged so it's very easy to get on. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850.
• Condition: excellent; a few very small dings on the back side but no major dents or scrapes.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 6-1/2" interior circumference.
• Weight: 34.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.08 carats; diamond, 2.78 carats.

An impressive and beautifully-crafted large Victorian locket, each face carved from a single piece of onyx. The front cover is adorned with a gold floral spray studded with small natural seed pearls of the best quality. Seed pearls often have a chalky appearance but these have lovely luster and iridescence. The interior of the locket retains its original frame glass, as well as woven hair. The hair, of course, could easily be replaced with a portrait. The locket is suspended from an elegant bail, enameled in black and set with pearls. The bail has a shepherd’s hook closure so it will fit onto even the thickest of chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; all original; no cracks or enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 1-7/8” (2-1/2” including bail). Weight: 34.2 gr.

A fine Victorian locket in 10K yellow gold, the front face featuring an enameled bouquet of white lilies against a striking turquoise enameled background. In Victorian flower symbology, the white lily represented sweetness or purity. The surrounding areas of gold are ornately engraved in a swirly design that is repeated on the back cover around a shield-shaped reserve. The interior retains the original frame and glass cover. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca 1880

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no monogram or removal

Dimensions: 1" x 1-3/16"

Weight: 10.5 grams.

A nice quality and heavy 18K gold watch key enhanced with black enamel and seed pearls suspending a pair of foxtail chain tassels and a dog clip clasp. This was originally the cross bar and fob attachments for a Victorian watch chain. With the entire assembly attached to a necklace using the existing jump ring, the key and and tassels would make stunning "charms" and another charm of your choice could be attached to the dog clip. This last charm could be changed up depending on your mood! Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Dimensions: watch key, 1 1/2" long; longer tassel, 1 11/16"
• Weight: 7.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A wonderful Victorian angel skin cameo depicting a 17th century gentlemen set in 18K gold. Male cameos are rather unusual and typically depict deities from the Greco-Roman pantheon or historical figures. This example appears very similar to the Van Dyck portraits of King Charles II. The details of the lace collar, heavy neck chain, ruffled shirt, beard and hair are very finely worked. The cameo is deeply carved, with the white figure standing out beautifully from the soft pink background. The setting is simple, featuring only a simple line of wire-twist decoration. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably American, circa 1850
• Excellent condition; no cracking to coral; replaced clasp
• 2-1/32" x 1-13/16"
• 26.8 grams