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Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau (47)

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Art Nouveau 18K Gold & Aquamarine Tassel Earrings

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1900   item# 557871

Art Nouveau 18K Gold & Aquamarine Tassel Earrings
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$2395 

Outstanding pair of early Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings set with aquamarines. The surmounts, each set with three aquamarine beads, support double chains suspending shields set with oval aquamarines, in turn fringed with chain drops terminating in balls. The shields have foliate decoration that just begin to show the Art Nouveau sensibility. The chain elements are textured in the style more often associated with Etruscan Revival pieces. The aquamarines are of very fine quality with superb color and clarity. The earrings have lots of movement. They are long, yet are light enough to be worn comfortably. The earrings have been converted to screwbacks, but could easily revert to wires or even posts. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-7/16” long. Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.35 carats.


Krementz Art Nouveau 14K Gold Enamel Aquamarine Brooch

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 557619

Krementz Art Nouveau 14K Gold Enamel Aquamarine Brooch
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$1250 

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of swirling foliage, highlighted with gorgeous iridescent translucent enamels in shades of blue, green and cream. The enamel is highlighted by two tiny seed pearls, and the center features a collet-set old European cut aquamarine. The gemstone has beautiful color that coordinates exceptionally well with the enamel. The back of the pin retains the original pinstem and c-clasp marked with Krementz’ hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: very good, there is a 1/16” and a 1/8” nick in the enamel below the aquamarine, but because of the coloring of the enamel it is very difficult to see except under very close inspection. Size: 1-1/2” x 9/16”. Weight: 3.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .7 carat.


Victorian 10K Enamel Pearl 4-leaf Clover Horseshoe Pin

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 544746

Victorian 10K Enamel Pearl 4-leaf Clover Horseshoe Pin
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$325 

A nice late Victorian good luck brooch in the form of a horseshoe supporting an enameled four-leaf clover—both traditional symbols of good luck. The clover is nicely enameled in very striking colors and is centered with a seed pearl. Small pins such as this were popular gifts to which great sentiment was attached. Those with clovers were sometimes given as going-away gifts or when “good luck” was the expressed sentiment. The back retains the original clasp with an unidentified maker’s mark (probably a Newark maker) and is marked 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: no enamel damage, no dings, pinstem replaced. Size: 1” x 7/8”. Weight: 2.5 grams.


Art Nouveau 14K Enamel Diamond Freshwater Pearl Pendant

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 544601

Art Nouveau 14K Enamel Diamond Freshwater Pearl Pendant
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$475 

A delicate Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant in the form of intertwined foliage. The leaves, enameled in pale translucent and opalescent shades of green and yellow, curl about a prong-set old mine cut diamond and are accented on either side by a small seed pearl. A large freshwater pearl hangs freely from the bottom of the pendant. There is no maker’s mark, but it nearly certainly a piece from one of the Newark makers such as Krementz, Alling, etc. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-3/32” long. Weight: 2.0 grams.


Victorian 14K Gold, Enamel & Ruby Violet Honeymoon Pin

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 542463

Victorian 14K Gold, Enamel & Ruby Violet Honeymoon Pin
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$375 

A lovely Victorian honeymoon brooch in 14K yellow gold. The traditional crescent shape supports a gold violet enameled in rich shades of rose, purple and cream and accented with green veining on the petals. The flower is centered with a small prong-set old mine cut ruby. Flowers of the sort were often set with a small diamond, but the vivid color of the ruby is very attractive with the flower’s color. In the Victorian language of flowers, the crescent shape represented “moon” and the flower represented sweetness or “honey”, thus “honeymoon”. Pins such as these were popular gifts from grooms to their new brides. The original early safety clasp has an unidentified maker’s mark. The extended pinstem, though original, is not gold, but the remainder of the brooch is tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: all original, the enamel has a 1/16” flake on the tip of one flower petal. Size: 7/8” x 3/4". Weight: 2.5 grams.


Art Nouveau 14K Gold, Sapphire & Pearl Flower Brooch

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 539966

Art Nouveau 14K Gold, Sapphire & Pearl Flower Brooch
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$175 

A pretty Art Nouveau floral brooch worked in 14K gold. Sinuous foliage forms the heart-shaped outline of the pin, while the flower fills the center. The flower is set with an old mine-cut sapphire of very nice color. A bud is represented by a small seed pearl. The gold has a slightly green tone that quite attractive. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp. The back is marked “585” for 14K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 15/16”. Weight: 2.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .08 carat.


Art Nouveau 14K Gold Diamond Lady’s Head Pendant

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 537757

Art Nouveau 14K Gold Diamond Lady’s Head Pendant
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$325 

A pretty Art Nouveau medallion-style pendant depicting a woman wearing an exuberantly large hat. The hat is topped with an ostrich feather and her hair is strewn with flowers. A small diamond is set at her throat. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 15/16” x 27/32”. Weight: 4.5 grams.


Art Nouveau 14K Gold & Enamel Mardi Gras Comus Brooch

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 524811

Art Nouveau 14K Gold & Enamel Mardi Gras Comus Brooch
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$3,600 

An exceedingly rare Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a Classical priestess of Comus, the Greek god of mirth and frivolity. She wears a toga and her braided hair is surmounted by a tiara. She appears in front of a stained glass rose window--perhaps an acknowledgement of the Catholic religious culture of New Orleans. The quality and shading of the enamels is simply beyond compare. The gold is finished in the slight-matte “Russian finish” often found in higher-quality French Art Nouveau jewels. The back is stamped “14K”.

The back of the brooch is engraved “COMUS 1908”. The Mystick Krewe of Comus is the oldest and most elite of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras clubs. Theirs is the last ball held before Ash Wednesday, and even Rex, King of Mardi Gras, comes to the ball to bow before the head of the Comus Krewe. In the tradition of Mardi Gras balls, every guest must be masked, and none is allowed to dance (or even stand on the floor of the ballroom) until every member of the all-male Krewe has danced with the female guest of his choice. With the assistance of “callers” using a complex numerical code, each Krewemember finds his female guest despite her masked appearance, although she may never know his true identity. Following the dance, the member presents his guest with the Krewe favor. In some years, the favors were relatively inexpensive, but occasionally they were lavish. The 1908 Comus Ball is one of the most famous in Mardi Gras history because of its legendary elegance. This brooch was the official ball favor. The exact number of Comus members is a secret, but is thought to be no more than 100. By extension, one can surmise that no more than 100 of these brooches were ever made.

Origin: America, 1908. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” x 7/8”. Weight: 5.5 grams.


Art Nouveau 14K Gold, Enamel, Diamond & Pearl Watch Pin

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 524809

Art Nouveau 14K Gold, Enamel, Diamond & Pearl Watch Pin
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$1,850 

A wonderful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a woman’s head surrounding by swirling foliage pave-set with seed pearls. The woman’s hair and facial features are delicately enameled in iridescent shades of brown, rose and pink. Her hair is strewn with gold flowers and features a 10-point collet-set old European cut diamond. The back retains the original pinstem, c-clasp and watch hook. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1” x 1”. Weight: 4.0 grams.


French Art Nouveau 18K Gold & Diamond Negligée Necklace

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau: Pre 1910   item# 513590

French Art Nouveau 18K Gold & Diamond Negligée Necklace
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$3295 

A stunning French Art Nouveau 18K gold and diamond necklace. The necklace features a 1/3-carat old mine-cut diamond in a round setting suspended from a fine gold chain. A knife-edge drop hangs from the center and terminates in a smaller diamond. On either side, knife-edge drops of different lengths are dotted with small diamonds before terminating in diamond clusters. Upon close inspection, it is clear that the clusters represent flowers, with the three upper diamonds in each cluster being larger than the two lower diamonds, much like a pansy has a combination of larger upper petals and smaller lower petals. The pansy, symbolizing remembrance, was a favorite floral symbol in French Art Nouveau jewelry. The diamonds are of superb quality, with excellent bright color and clarity. Negligée necklaces (so named because the clusters hang “negligently” askew) are usually seen in white gold or platinum and reached the height of popularity around 1920. This is an earlier example, probably dating to around 1900. The necklace is hallmarked with French “tete d’aigle” marks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: chain, 17-3/8” long; diamond drop, 1-5/8” long. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.6 carats.

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