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Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed (120)

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Tiffany Paloma Picasso 18K Gold Modernist Rings

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1980   item# 1038321

Tiffany Paloma Picasso 18K Gold Modernist Rings
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$1450 

A fascinating pair of 18K yellow gold Modernist rings designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The rings can be worn individually, with either the sphere or the opening pointing outward, or as a pair stacked in opposite directions. The heavy rings have a substantial feel on the hand, and could be worn by either a man or woman. Each is fully signed and hallmarked.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 23.1 grams.


Tiffany & Co. 18K Gold & Diamond Earrings

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1980   item# 1021534

Tiffany & Co. 18K Gold & Diamond Earrings
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$5250 

An outstanding pair of vintage earrings in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds by Tiffany & Co. The oval shape is formed of reeded bars interspersed with prong-set round brilliant cut diamonds, creating a basketweave texture. The diamonds are graded as F color, VS1 clarity, and excellent cut. Each earring is marked “1992 Tiffany & Co. 750”.

Origin: America, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 21.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.25 cts.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring as Item #831151.


Vintage Tiffany 14K Gemstone Acrostic DEAREST Charm

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1960   item# 1021533

Vintage Tiffany 14K Gemstone Acrostic DEAREST Charm
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$995 

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features an intricately cast "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond and spiraling outward in a counterclockwise direction, the first letter of each gemstone’s name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spells “DEAREST”. The tree is enclosed in an open twist border, in turn enclosed in a broad “pleated” border. The back is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Acrostic jewelry spelling out such sentiments was very popular in the Victorian era. The gemstones are 19th century antique cuts and Tiffany apparently custom-set them in this piece at a client’s request. The nature of the clarity characteristics suggests that the ruby is Burmese in origin, while the sapphire is Kashmir. Neither shows evidence of treatment, nor are the emeralds filled. The “Tree of Life” pattern was often set with birthstones representing the owner’s children or grandchildren, but the acrostic “DEAREST” is most unusual.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 17.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .35 ct.


William Ruser 14K Gold Ruby Pearl Dachshund Angel Pin

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1960   item# 1021527

William Ruser 14K Gold Ruby Pearl Dachshund Angel Pin
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$1150 

An outstanding 14K yellow gold dachshund angel pin by famed Beverly Hills jewelry designer, William Ruser. The dog, shown sitting up in a begging position, is beautifully detailed. His eyes are set with tiny rubies and he wears a halo of seed pearls. The dog-angel’s wings are made from natural freshwater pearls, as are the clouds on which he floats. The back is signed and is marked “14K”.

Ruser, the personal jeweler to Hollywood’s elite such as Loretta Young and Joan Crawford, created a number of pieces featuring dogs, but they are almost always poodles. Sometimes, the animals are shown as angels. These probably were created to order to memorialize favorite pets. Joan Crawford often wore a set of poodle pins. Ruser remained one of Beverly Hills’ most exclusive jewelers until the late 1960s when he sold his Rodeo Drive boutique to Van Cleef & Arpels.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 1-7/16”. Weight: 13.7 gr.


Edward Everett Oakes 14K Gold Amethyst & Pearl Ring

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1930   item# 1021412

Edward Everett Oakes 14K Gold Amethyst & Pearl Ring
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$3795 

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.


Edward Everett Oakes 14K Gold & Tourmaline Ring

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1940   item# 1020170

Edward Everett Oakes 14K Gold & Tourmaline Ring
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$3495 

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold and green tourmaline ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The shank is fashioned as serrated leaves that gradually open to enclose a prong-set round brilliant-cut green tourmaline at the crown. The tourmaline is graded as medium dark, strong, lightly yellowish Green (slyG 6/6); excellent cut; and Type I eye-clean clarity.

Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw, before opening his own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but Oakes' mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stays at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 9/16" wide at crown. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 6.5 gr Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.54 cts.


Vintage Gucci 18K Yellow Gold & Diamond Earrings

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1970   item# 1019968

Vintage Gucci 18K Yellow Gold & Diamond Earrings
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$1360 

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings by Gucci. The earrings are designed in a sort of “knitted” ropetwist pattern, the tops sprinkled with round single cut diamonds. The stones are graded as I color and SI1 clarity. Both earrings are marked “18Ct Italy” and signed “Gucci”. The earrings retain their original posts and omega clips, and are presented in their original fitted Gucci box.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 10.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 ct.


Ming’s 14K Gold, Jade & Pearl Pendant/Brooch & Earrings

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1970   item# 1019960

Ming’s 14K Gold, Jade & Pearl Pendant/Brooch & Earrings
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$1295 

A wonderful pendant/brooch and pair of earrings by Ming’s of Honolulu. Each piece features a round green jadeite plaque simply set in 14K yellow gold and overlaid by a spray of gold and Akoya pearl flowers. The pendant/brooch has its original pendant bale so it can be worn from a heavy chain. The gold surfaces have bark-like texture in the typical Ming’s style. The pearls (approximately 5.8 mm in the pendant/brooch and 3.4 mm in the earrings) have cream body color with light rose overtone, bright luster and smooth surfaces. The jade plaque set in the brooch has strong mottling throughout and is a medium grayish-green in color. The jade in the earrings is strongly mottled, with large areas of white and streaks of dark grayish green. The jadeite is natural in color and shows no indication of dye. The mounting of the brooch is marked “Ming’s 14K”, while the earrings are simply marked “14K”. The pieces were quite obviously made as a set and there is no doubt that all were made by Ming’s. Because there is not a signature on the earclips, the backs could easily be changed to posts or wires without a loss in value.

Origin: Hawaii, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: pendant/brooch, 2-1/16” diameter; earrings, 7/8” diameter.


Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti 18K Gold COMMA Earrings

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1980   item# 1006467

Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti 18K Gold COMMA Earrings
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$1295 

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips from Tiffany’s “Comma” collection by Elsa Peretti. This design was an interpretation of the swirling patterns found in traditional paisley textiles. This design hasn’t been in production since the 1990s and it’s very difficult to find. These earrings are the large size. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. Peretti 18K Spain”. They are presented in their original blue felt Tiffany bag.

Ca. 1995. Condition: excellent, no dings. Size: 1-9/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 13.3 grams.


Ruser 14K Gold Sapphire Pearl THURSDAYS CHILD Pendant

Catalogue: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1960   item# 1006462

Ruser 14K Gold Sapphire Pearl THURSDAYS CHILD Pendant
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Kensington House Antiques
(301)942-0955


$1295 

A delightful 14K yellow gold pendant or charm representing “Thursday’s Child” from the traditional “Monday’s Child” poem. According to the text, Thursday’s Child “has far to go”. In Ruser’s work, Thursday’s Child is always represented in a walking or running position and carrying a bag of belongings (sometimes tied onto a stick and slung over the shoulder). This child has tiny sapphire eyes and walks along a baroque freshwater pearl ground. The entire composition is enclosed with an oval border. The border is marked “14K” and the child’s back is marked “Ruser 14K”.

William Ruser was one of the leading jewelers in Beverly Hills and was beloved by many stars, especially Joan Crawford, Loretta Young and Claudette Colbert. They were often be seen wearing his jewels in their movies as well as in their private lives. Ruser’s most popular designs were those featuring poodles and the “Monday’s Child” series.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8” x 1-5/16” (excluding bale and jump ring). Weight: 15.8 grams.

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