A truly exquisite French late Art Nouveau pendant/brooch worked in 18K gold and studded with 95 single-cut diamonds. The brooch features a gold lily pad worked in delicate shades of yellowish-green and with intricate engraving beneath the translucent enamel. The leaf is surrounded in a whiplash frame of small diamonds set in silver over gold (typical of French jewels of the 19th century). The frame is accented with a pair of natural button pearls and suspends a natural drop pearl at the bottom. A diamond-studded lily blossom is attached with a knife-edge stem of gold and silver. The entire frame is surmounted by a full-blown waterlily blossom, also set in diamonds. The back has a pair of bails so the piece can be worn as a pendant, but also a pinstem so it can be worn as a brooch. This is an exceptionally fine Art Nouveau jewel.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-7/16” x 2-3/16”. Weight: 11.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.9 carats.

A lovely Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold floral pendant. The flowers are represented by small rose cut diamonds and a round brilliant ruby. The gold foliage is finely engraved in a naturalistic pattern. The brooch suspends a drop-shaped natural pearl with fine luster. The ruby, though small, has fine red color and excellent clarity. The pendant is suspended from its bale with a double chain. Fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/32” wide; 1-3/8” long (not including chain); 2-1/4” long (including chain). Weight: 4.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .16 ct; diamond, .10 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a pearl-studded horseshoe enclosing a beautifully-enameled violet. The petals are worked in realistic shades of purple fading to pinkish-cream at the centers and the flower is accented with a bright green leaf. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet was used to symbolize faithfulness. Combined with a horseshoe for good luck, a pin of this sort almost certainly would have served as a going-away gift. The original clasp is stamped 14K and has Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 13/16" x 3/4". Weight: 3.3 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in 14K yellow gold by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The curving gold frame encloses a flower, its petals made from baroque freshwater pearls (most likely Mississippi River pearls) centering a bezel-set round blue sapphire. Another freshwater pearl swings freely at the bottom of the pendant. The sapphire has a nice medium violetish-blue color and the pearls have good luster. The gold surfaces have a soft, bloomed texture. The original bail is marked 14K and is hallmarked by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: pendant, 2-1/2” long, 5/8” wide; necklace length, 15”. Weight: 5.6 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .11 ct.

A delightful Victorian 10K yellow gold figural ring in the form of a genie. The genie's hands are folded across his chest and grasp a old European cut yellow sapphire. The use of a fancy color sapphire in a piece such as this is quite original. The stone is graded as very light, very slightly grayish Yellow-Green (YG 2/3). The ring's shank is in the form of sinuous snake whose head peers over the genie's shoulder and gazes at the glimmering sapphire. The design is just beautifully thought out and the detailing is excellent. The interior of the shank is marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; wear consistent with age to the facet junctions on the crown of the sapphire. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Size: 13/16" wide at widest. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.53 ct.

A truly exceptional example of American Art Nouveau enameled gold jewelry, this pendant features a deeply three-dimensional waterlily enameled in translucent lavender. The blossom is surrounded by bright green leaves and another bud about to open. A pair of baroque freshwater pearls flank the blossom, and the whole is presented against a gold frame incorporating whiplash curves and suspending a freshwater dogtooth pearl. The pearls are of exceptional quality, with bright orient in rainbow colors. The pendant is suspended from a leaf-shape plaque. The depth of the design is amazing. The pendant can be removed from the chain and originally had a removable pinstem mechanism so it could be worn as a brooch. The mechanism is now missing, but could easily be recreated by a competent goldsmith. All in all, this is one of the very best Art Nouveau enameled pendants we’ve owned. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America (probably Newark), ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: length of pendant from the top of the leaf element to the bottom of the dogtooth pearl, 2”; width of pendant element, 1-3/16”; chain length, 18”. Weight: 8.2 gr.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold locket in the Art Nouveau taste, the front cover depicting a water nymph, her streaming hair entwined with seaweed studded with small rose-cut diamonds. Her ear is adorned with an earring in the form of a coral branch. Her head appears just above delicately rippling waves that high the word “Eau” for water. This design was part of a four-part series designed by Bargas representing the four elements of earth, air, fire and water. They are sometimes seen as buttons, but very rarely worked in gold and used as a locket. Like many French lockets of the period, this example opens by swiveling sideways rather than being hinged. The interior retains its original fittings and glass cover. The back cover has the slightly matte finish typical of Art Nouveau jewels and has a period “ES” monogram. The bail is fully hallmarked with 18K gold marks and with the maker’s mark (partially obscured).

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” excluding jumpring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pansy pin enameled in rich shades of dark plum, violet, cream and saffron. The jeweler used a matte enamel to suggest the velvety texture of pansy petals. The flower is centered with a prong-set round cut diamond that adds a nice sparkle against the matte enamel. The back of the pin is marked for 14K and also has a maker's mark that we've not seen before. The pansy is most definitely a Newark or New York piece and is very similar to pansies by Hedges and Larter. Unlike most other pansies, the pin has rather substantial weight. The pansy was a popular flower for jewelry and in the Victorian language of flowers, it signified remembrance.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .09 ct.

A stunning French 18K yellow gold and diamond pansy brooch in the Art Nouveau taste. The petals are beautifully decorated in translucent enamels shading from silvery white to cream to rose. The outer ruffled edge of each petal is outlined in small rose cut diamonds. The pansy is centered by a larger rose cut diamond of unusually good color and clarity. As is typical of 19th century French jewels, the diamonds are set in silver. Each petal is cast separately and then attached to the others with a screw mechanism. The back has a replaced pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, one 1/8" area of flaking enamel visible under magnification. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 18.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.385 cts.

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

Outstanding Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a maiden surrounded by a wreath of iris blossoms. Her hair is set with a tiny old European cut diamond. The detail of the casting and engraving is superb. The surface is enhanced with the original softly-bloomed Russian finish often seen in Art Nouveau jewels. The back retains the original watch hook and has a replaced c-clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams.

A stunning Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold brooch featuring an enameled and engraved gold portrait of the Greek goddess Athena against a royal blue translucent guilloche enamel background. The goddesses’ magnificently engraved helmet is topped with a winged dragon and is set with a small rose cut diamond. The armor on her tunic and the embroidery along its collar are also worked in engraved gold. The quality of enameling to the face and the drapery of her clothes is absolutely top-notch. The rim of the medallion is punctuated at regular intervals with natural pearls. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem, both of which are stamped with French hallmarks. Athena, the goddess of wisdom, was a popular figure in late Victorian mythological iconography.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; a tiny loss of enamel at the bottom edge of the tunic visible under 10x magnification. Size: 1-3/32” diameter. Weight: 8.4 grams.