A very good vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant or large charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold. The pendant is ideal for monograming, but there is no evidence of any previous engraving.

Ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .6 ct; diamond, .4 ct.

Very fine, heavy, fully three-dimensional 18K yellow gold figural brooch in the form of a sailboat. The mast is fully rigged with beautifully detailed sails worked in contrasting matte and polished gold. Two figures are hiking out over the edge of the hull and waves of water lap at the sides. The bottom of the hull is stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an obscured maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp. The brooch was custom-made for the original owner in the mid-1930s.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-7/8". Weight: 11.7 grams.

A pretty late Retro 14K yellow gold four-leaf clover brooch, the petals set with heart-shaped amethysts arranged around a central pearl. The amethysts have heavy natural variations in color ("zoning") that actually gives the petals a shaded appearance. The piece was intended to be worn as a brooch, but can easily be hung from a chain as a pendant. The back is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1" x 1-1/8". Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 9.24 cts.

A striking Retro pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, and set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the period, in the late 1930s. The pendant has a contemporary 14K gold bail clasp so it can be worn from a thick chain or even a strand of pearls.

Origin: America, ca. 1938. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” x 1-15/16” (excluding bail). Weight: 14.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 ct; ruby, .60 ct; amethyst, 2.40 cts.

A handsome gentleman’s ring in 14K yellow gold, the top set with alternating round cut rubies and brilliant round cut diamonds in star settings. Gypsy-set rings were first popular in the Victorian era, but reappeared in the 1930s and 40s, sometimes with the addition of star settings. The rubies are natural, without evidence of treatment, and are color-graded as medium dark slightly brownish strongly purplish-red (stpR 6/2) and clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are H/VS1. The ring has substantial weight and is comfortable to wear. The inside of the shank is marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/16” wide. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .60 ct; ruby, .70 ct.

A lovely vintage aquamarine in diamond ring set in 14K white gold. The ring features a fine 21.74-carat oval mixed cut aquamarine flanked by a pair of .136-carat round brilliant cut diamonds. The split shank holds the aquamarine high above the side diamonds in a cage setting. The aquamarine is graded as light, very slightly grayish, slightly greenish-blue (slgB3/3) in color; good cut, and Type I eye-clean clarity. The aquarmarine is quite large, but its light tone and color saturation gives the ring a lighter feel than it might have with a darker stone. The diamonds are both I color and good cut, one with SI1 clarity, and the other with VS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”.

America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 7/8” x 15/16”. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 21.74 carats; diamond, .27 carat.

A Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising hinged links set with amethysts alternating with diamond-set links. The oval mixed-cut amethysts have medium-dark, vivid reddish-purple color and are well-matched. The small old European and brilliant cut round diamonds add a restrained bit of sparkle. The amethysts are set in a way that makes them appear the float in the larger gold links, creating a sense of lightness in the bracelet. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long, 3/8” wide. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; amethyst, 14.0 cts.

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

A very attractive Retro 18K yellow gold wirework open mesh bracelet studded with round-cut synthetic rubies. Nearly all Retro jewelry is set with synthetic rubies, largely because the stones were very difficult to get from Asia in the years leading up to World War II. The gems alternate with gold beads in a zigzag pattern that nicely highlights the intricate interwoven design of the bracelet. The box clasp is marked "18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8" wide; 8-5/16" long. Weight: 58.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.54 cts.

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.

A very attractive Retro ring in 18K rose and yellow gold collet-set with an emerald cut color change spinel. The stone approximates the color of a good aquamarine in incandescent (indoor) light and changes color to a vibrant, pale green in sunlight. The setting is beautifully made in a design of interlocking yellow and rose gold swirls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, abrasions at facet edges visible under magnification. Finger Size: 8-1/4. Size: crown, 3/4" x 3/4”. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.25 carats.

A fine Retro comet brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with diamonds and blue sapphires. The comet's head and a portion of the tail are saw-pierced, a treatment that considerably lightens a design that would otherwise be too massive. The center of the brooch is set with a marquise-shaped plaque worked in white gold and bead-set with round brilliant- and single-cut diamonds. The plaque is surrounded by a cluster of prong-set round brilliant-cut sapphires. The diamonds are estimated at J color, SI clarity. The sapphires have a slightly violetish-blue color, with strong saturation, moderate tone, and very good brilliance. Comet jewelry has been popular for hundreds of years, and usually become fashionable whenever a particularly notable comet passes close to Earth. The back is marked "14K" and has an unknown maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/16" x 1-7/8". Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats.