Catalog (2449)

A classic 19th century French 2nd standard (900/1000 pure silver) tastevin, inset at the base with a 1702 coin bearing the likeness of King Louis XIV surrounded by the legend translated as "Louis XIV by grace of god King of France and Navarre." The bowl of the tastevin is finished with the typical arrangement of "perles" and elongated "godrons" designed to create reflections in the wine to better judge its color and clarity. The handle is formed from a pair of intertwined snakes grasping an apple in their mouths, an allusion to the Garden of Eden. The handle is stamped with appropriate French hallmarks and with an unidentified master's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, a few extremely minor nicks at the rim. Dimensions: 2-13/16" diameter (excluding handle). Weight: 58.1 grams.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The chain comprises alternating large and small oval links, each inset with an ornate scrolling pattern with millgrained accents. The design is reminiscent of the stone tracery separating the panels in a Gothic stained glass window. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular throughout the Second Empire and into the Belle Epoque. The necklace is stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 29-1/4" long. Weight: 27.1 gr.

A lovely double-sided 18K gold and crystal locket, the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVA style. The round faceted crystal covers are suspended in a diamond-shaped open frame. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the locket's contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or some other memento on the back. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more private image on the other. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. Fully stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-5/16" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail).

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the baton faces very finely and ornately engraved in a foliate pattern. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 11/16” long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A cute, diminutive Victorian fob seal in the form of a silver toga-clad monkey sitting atop a gold base. His eyes are set with tiny cabochon garnets. The base is formed from a faceted carnelian and has never been engraved. Tested and guaranteed silver and 18K.

Origin: Probably France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original, no engraving on seal. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/16” x 1” tall. Weight: 4.2 gr.

A superb 19th century Imperial Russian wooden Easter egg with polychrome decoration of Christ arising from the tomb flanked by a pair of angels. The scene is beautifully colored and shows dynamic movement. The reverse of the egg bears the gilt letters “XB” for “Christ is Risen.” The egg is completed with its original blue silk ribbon, appropriately worn with age. Careful examination of the drill holes in the egg show even oxidation of the wood’s unpainted surfaces and the paint has typical aligatoring, supporting a 19th century age.

Origin: Russia, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; negligible paint loss. Dimensions: 3-5/8” long.

A magnificent French Art Nouveau 18K gold and diamond slide locket, the front cover featuring a a fierce griffin clutching an old European cut diamond in its mouth. The beast is beautifully chased and engraved with a lot of detail in the feathers and fur. The griffin is presented against an ornately pierced Renaissance style background that would allow small peaks to show through of any portrait or photo enclosed in the locket. In Greek mythology, griffins were the guardians of the most treasured and priceless possessions, and its role on the front of a locket mimics that idea. The diamond is of equally high quality, graded as G color, VVS1 clarity. The bail has partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; a few small pinpoint dings on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diam (excluding bail). Weight: 14.6 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .24 ct.

A lovely, heavy 18K yellow gold fancy cable chain necklace, with alternating double and beaded links. The chain is ornate enough to be worn simply as a necklace, but is sturdy enough so support a heavy pendant or multiple charms. The spring clasp is stamped with partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21-3/4" long. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A lovely Victorian tortoise shell pique pendant in a heart shape. The puffed surface is worked with gold and silver inlay in an ornate floral pattern within a scalloped inlaid border. The pattern of two flowers joined together by a ribbon, and of course, the overall heart shape suggest that the pendant would have been given as a love token. The tortoise has very nice markings and translucency when held to the light.

Origin: America or England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, no inlay loss, no chipping or cracking, (the line visible in the last image is a surface scratch only--not a crack). Size: 1-1/16” x 1-3/16”.

A lovely early 20th century Imperial Russian wooden Easter egg with polychrome decoration of a young peasant couple engaged in a kiss. The image is very sweet and nicely detailed. The back side of the egg bears the gilt letters “XB” for “Christ is Risen.” Careful examination of the drill holes in the egg show even oxidation of unpainted surfaces and the paint has typical aligatoring, supporting a very late 19th or early 20th century age. The image is a bit more romantic than is typical of earlier 19th century eggs.

Origin: Russia, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent; bright colors; no paint loss. Dimensions: 2-3/16” long.

A lovely first standard (950/1000) silver tastevin, the bottom inset with a 1658 silver coin depicting the youthful image of Louis XIV surrounded by text translated as "Louis XIV, by grace of God, King of France and Navarre." The sides of the tastevin a decorated with clusters of grapes and elegantly curved godrons in the style typical of Orfevre Parrod. Coin inserts, however, are unusual in Parrod tastevins. The handle is worked in a simplified snake motif typical of Dijon. The handle is stamped with Parrod's hallmark.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Dimensions: 2-9/16" diameter (excluding handle). Weight: 59.3 gr.

A large 15K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an applied floral motif. The flower’s petals are set with Persian turquoise cabochons while the leaves are set with seed pearls. The pearls and turquoise are of good quality, with bright coloring that enhances the dramatic appeal of this large locket. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, interior frame intact. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 18.0 gr.

A very nice Victorian 15K yellow gold ring featuring three beautifully colored spessartite garnets separated by rows of seed pearls. These garnets are not the typical murky reddish stones, but brighter orangey-red with nice fire. The gold surfaces are elegantly engraved in a floral motif that goes all the way around the shank. The ring was expertly sized at some point, keeping the hallmarks intact, and with matching engraving. Fully hallmarked for Birmingham, 1868.

Origin: England, 1868. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown 5/16” wide, tapering to 3/32” at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Weight: 2.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.6 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold bracelet designed as floral plaques separated by bezel set blue sapphire cabochons. Each elegantly pierced gold plaque depicts a rose encircled by scrolls and flanked by additional flowers. The backs of the plaques are engraved in a matching motif. The high-domed cabochons have fine deep blue coloring and show no indications of heat treatment. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 7-3/8” long
• Weight: 22.8 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.12 carats

A very fine 19th century Imperial Russian wooden Easter egg with polychrome decoration of Christ Pantocrator in the traditional double gesture of blessing and teaching. The figure, especially the face, is beautifully detailed. The back side of the egg bears the gilt letters "XB" for "Christ is Risen." The egg is completed with its original ribbon, appropriately brittle with age. Careful examination of the drill holes in the egg show even oxidation of the wood's unpainted surfaces and the paint has typical aligatoring, consistent with a 19th century date.

Origin: Russia, ca. 1880. Condition: very good; some losses to paint at the upper and middle left of the background around the Christ figure. Dimensions: 2-5/8" long (excluding ribbon).

An elegant first standard (950/1000 pure silver) French silver tastevin in typical 18th century Burgundian style. Rather than with the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometimes seen in tastevins made by Parrod, but the particular decoration is different than any other we've seen. Similarly, the handle, in the form of two duck heads grasping an apple is a very exaggerated variation of the usual form seen on tastevins from Lyon. The base is fully hallmarked and has an unidentified silversmith's mark "M tête grec D".

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3-3/16" diameter (excluding handle). Weight: 72.3 grams.

A classic 19th century French silver tastevin of traditional form and the bottom inset with a silver coin from the reign of Louis XV. The sides of the tastevin are decorated with the traditional raised "perles" and recessed "cupules" for viewing the depth of color in a wine. The coin, dating to 1726, depicts the profile of the king surrounded by the legend "Louis XV, by grace of God, king of France and Navarre." The reverse of the coin can be seen from the bottom of the tastevin. The taster is completed with a handle in the form of a single coiled snake. Stamped with an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the tastevin, typical wear to the coin. Dimensions: 3-5/16" x 4-5/16" x 1". Weight: 95.4 grams.

A very nice Victorian 9K gold buckle ring, fully engraved with an ornate floral and foliate pattern against a stippled background. The gold has faint rose tint. The ring shows almost no wear. The width of the band and larger finger size make this ring ideal for man. The interior of the shank is fully stamped with Chester hallmarks for 1896.

Origin: England, 1896. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/16" at the buckle, tapering to 5/32" at the back. Finger Size: 9-3/4. Weight: 4.5 gr.

A wonderful, heavy 14K yellow gold fob seal of oval form surmounted by a pair of snarling chimera heads with curling tongues. These creatures from Greek mythology were part lion, part goat and part dragon and could breathe fire. The most famous chimera was killed by the hero Bellerophon with the help of the winged horse Pegasus. The engraved details on the heads are very well done are accented with further foliate engraving along the bottom edge of the seal. The base was never engraved. Tested and guaraneed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16" x 1-5/8" tall. Weight: 15.6 gr.

A very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold chain necklace made of fancy open-work links with diamond plaque appliques alternating with reeded circular links. The reeded surfaces gift the gold a soft, shimmering appearance rather highly reflective. The large spring ring can be used simply as a clasp or to suspend and locket or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 20-1/2” long. Weight: 29.5 gr.

A nice 18K gold figural stick pin in the form of a bear, nicely detailed with engraved fur. The stem is spiraled, indicating an earlier date. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 5/8” x 5/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 3.5 gr.

An impressive and beautifully-crafted large Victorian locket, each face carved from a single piece of onyx. The front cover is adorned with a gold floral spray studded with small natural seed pearls of the best quality. Seed pearls often have a chalky appearance but these have lovely luster and iridescence. The interior of the locket retains its original frame glass, as well as woven hair. The hair, of course, could easily be replaced with a portrait. The locket is suspended from an elegant bail, enameled in black and set with pearls. The bail has a shepherd’s hook closure so it will fit onto even the thickest of chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; all original; no cracks or enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 1-7/8” (2-1/2” including bail). Weight: 34.2 gr.

A lovely Bohemian zwischengoldglass liqueur beaker, the bottom featuring an inset gilt and enameled design of bouquet of violets. The panel cutting along the beaker’s sides causes the design to be visually repeated when looking into the interior. These glasses have become increasingly difficult to find.

Origin: Bohemia, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, gilding intact, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 2-7/16” tall.

A fine handmade Victorian 18K yellow gold necklace with an extraordinary length of 46 inches. Alternating links are decorated with a twisted rope motif. The necklace is has a spring ring clasp at one end and a tension pendant clasp at the other, so it can be worn full-length or doubled, with or without an pendant. Wound six times, it can be worn as a bracelet, as well. Marked “18” for 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original. Length: 46”. Weight: 47.4 gr.

A stunning pair of Victorian 14K gold, onyx and pearl earrings fashioned as onyx leaves or teardrops with gold and pearl lily-of-the-valley appliques. The scrolled surmounts are also accented with seed pearls. The pearls have nice luster and iridescence. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn The wires are likely a later replacement and are marked “14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 19/32” wide x 1-3/4” long (to top of wire). Weight: 7.5 gr.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks made from Georgian cut steel and garnet buttons joined with 15K yellow gold chains. The garnets have very attractive medium-bright purplish-red coloring that contrasts nicely with bright sparkle of the cut steel “gems.” The garnet cabochons are held in place with fleur-de-lis shaped prongs. The faceting style of the steel indicates they were made in an earlier period, likely no later than 1790. The connecting chains have spring rings, so one face of each link can be removed for ease in placing the cuff hole. One of the spring rings is 9K and the other is gold-filled. They can easily be replaced with 14K by any jeweler. The back of one face has a worn engraving and the date 1871—probably they year the chains were added to the then 100 year-old buttons.

Origin: England, ca. 1770/1871. Condition: very good. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 30.7 cts.

A pair of handsome 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed in an Art Nouveau interpretation of Gothic Revival. The heavy pierced front faces are reminiscent of the ornate carved stone bosses at the interesections of the ceiling ribs in a Gothic vaulted ceiling, while the back faces are pure Art Nouveau with whiplash curves. The pairing makes for a very attractive combination. The backs of the faces and the chains are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 5/8" x 5/8"; back faces, 1/4" x 7/8". Weight: 9.3 gr.

A beautiful enameled silver patch or pill box by Nicholai Alexeyev. The hinged box is fully covered with enamels worked in shades of opaque white, aqua, periwinkle and royal blue, accented with translucent red and green. The cover and bottom are worked in a stylized starburst pattern, while the sides feature floral banding flanked by traditional triangular and dotted patterns. Exposed areas of silver are stippled and lightly gilt. The interior is also gilt. The interior of the body and lid are marked with the Moscow city mark, the 88 standard, and the maker’s mark for Nicholai Alexeyev. The lid closes securely and can be used as a functional pill box, if desired.

Origin: Moscow, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 2-1/8” diameter; 1” high. Weight: 53.0 grams.

A pretty ring converted from a French 18K rose and yellow gold and ruby stick pin. The design shows a detailed rose gold snake curled around a yellow gold flower. The serpent's head is set with an antique cushion cut ruby of rich red color. The 18K gold snake is mounted on a 14K gold band.

In Victorian times, the snake was used to represent never-ending love. Prince Albert gave a snake ring to Queen Victoria on the occasion of their marriage.

Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: snake, 11/16" x 3/8". Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 ct.

A delightful ring converted from a French 18K rose and green gold and ruby stick pin. The design shows a pair of ruby cherries hanging from a pair of green gold leaves (the photos are upside down). The rubies have a nice red color the perfect shade of juicy, ripe cherries. The 18K gold design is mounted on a 14K gold band.

Cherries are rife with symbolism ranging from the eternal soul to female sexuality. This ring would also be great for someone from Michigan!

Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: crown, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 1.7 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .06 ct.

An elegant ring converted from an antique French 18K gold and diamond stick pin. The design shows a coiled snake with a diamond-set head. The 18K gold snake is mounted on a 14K gold band.

In Victorian times, the snake was a symbol of everlasting love, without beginning or end. Prince Albert gave a snake ring to Queen Victoria on the occasion of their marriage.

Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 2.4 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .01 ct.

A fabulous ring converted from an antique French 18K gold stick. The fleur-de-lis is beautifully embossed with lots of detail. A delicate row of three natural seed pearls accents the design. The 18K gold crown is mounted on a 14K gold band.

The fleur-de-lis ("lily") was the traditional symbol of French royalty.

Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 11/16". Weight: 1.9 gr.

A wonderful figural fob seal depicting England’s patron St. George defeating the dragon. The design is worked primarily in silver, but the horse’s bridle, the dragon’s dorsal ridge and the saint’s spear and shield are worked in yellow gold. The gold base encloses a flat malachite that was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed sterling silver and 18K gold.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1860. Condition: very good, some light dings on the mounting around the stone consistent with age. Dimensions: 1’ x 5/8” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 15.9 gr.

An exceptionally fine French 18K yellow gold ring in the form of a lion's head flanked by a pair of winged griffins that coil around the finger. The lion grasps a round blue sapphire it its jaws. The sapphire has rich coloring and is deeply saturated. The design is entirely hand-chased and pierced. The ring is signed, but is only partly legible "CU**R." It is also marked with the master goldsmith's stamp "AP" and with the French 18K mark. Mythological subjects such a griffins were very popular in French jewelry just before the onset of the Art Nouveau era, and this is very fine example.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Finger Size: 9-1/2. Dimensions: 9/16" wide at front, tapering to 1/4" at back. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .36 ct. Weight 11.4 gr.

An elegant yellow gold ring featuring a rare blue-to-violet color-change sapphire surrounded by seed pearls, converted from an antique stick pin. The sapphire has extremely fine clarity and excellent cut, but the best part is the marked change of color depending on lighting conditions. The stone appears a vibrant violet shade in incandescent light and royal blue in daylight. The sapphire and pearls are elegantly backed with a hand-pierced gallery. The setting is 15K (marked), and the ring shank is 18K.

Origin: the original stick pin was English, ca. 1870. Dimensions: crown, 3/8" diameter. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Approximate Sapphire Weight: .47 ct. Weight: 2.3 gr.

A stunning cut double-overlay white/cranberry/clear cologne bottle, mostly likely by the New England Glass Company. The broad base is slightly footed and decorated with opaque white casing cut in a classic foral vine pattern to a transparent rose-cranberry base. The panel-cut tapered neck is enhanced with a faceted applied ring. The open-top tulip-form stopper has a long knopped neck and white/cranberry panel cutting on the petals. The concave base is polished.

Origin: America, 1850-70. Condition: a 1/16" flake on an upper edge of the stopper visible on careful examination in raking light. Dimensions: 3-3/4" wide; 6-1/2" high.

A delightful and very rare Victorian pin depicting a woman's "safety bicycle". With a chain drive connected to the back wheels and structural supports that left room for petticoats, these bicycles gave women unexpected freedom. Susan B. Anthony claimed that bicycling "had done more to emancipate women than anything else in the world." This pin is worked in silver gilt and set with rose cut Bohemian garnets. The detailing is very nice. The back of the pin retains its original clasp and extended pinstem.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 13/16". Weight: 2.9 gr.

A spectacular demi-parure comprising a pair of earrings and a pendant/brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with Persian turquoise. The earrings have round surmounts decorated with applied bead and ropetwist decoration in the Etruscan Revival taste suspending ornately geometrical elements set with square turquoise cabochons. The pendant is made to match and has a bail that remains hidden when worn as a brooch. The turquoise is very well-matched. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, one stone at the bottom of the pendant has darkened to green (typical of Victorian turquoise). Dimensions: earrings, 2-7/8" long from top of earwire; pendant/brooch, 3" x 1-1/4". Weight: 39.6 gr.

A spectacularly fine, museum-quality Victorian figural watch fob worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum depicting Aesop's fable "The Fox and the Grapes." The seal shows the fox's head, jaws agape, straining to reach a juicy cluster of grapes that are just barely out of reach. Every tiny detail of the fox's fur, teeth, tongue is beautifully worked, as are the leaves and distinct individual berries making up each cluster of grapes. The leather strap is enhanced with three additional grape elements.

The seal surface is worked in platinum engraved through to the underlying gold. The crest is that of the Scottish clan Irwin (variously spelled Irvine, Irving, etc.) with the first two words of the family motto, "Sub Sole Sub Umbra Virens."

The Albert swivel clasp is stamped with a French goldsmith's mark, but it's likely that fob is English and the swivel clasp is an addition from the 1920s. The metals are tested and guaranteed as 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original with the likely exception of the swivel clasp. Dimensions: fob length, 1-5/8"; overall length (including Albert clasp), 5-3/4". Weight: 48.9 gr.

An extremely fine Victorian tiger claw bracelet mounted in 20K gold filigree. Tiger claws were popular souvenirs of visits to India, especially after Queen Victoria took the title “Empress of India” in 1876. They were sometimes set into jewelry in England or America, but also in India. This bracelet is mounted in the traditional Indian style of ornate filigree work. The claws are finely matched in terms of color and size and are in excellent condition. Tiger claw bracelets are difficult to find, especially at this quality level. The clasp is stamped with an unidentified maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 20K.

Origin: India, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 29.6 gr.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to the state of California.

An imposing Victorian butterfly brooch of exceptional quality and grand dimensions, the fore- and hindwings studded with rose cut diamonds set in silver-topped 18K gold and bordered with oval cabochon rubies set in gold. The thorax is formed of a round opal and the abdomen is a large squarish cabochon pink tourmaline. The design is completed with diamond antennae and emerald eyes. The opal has excellent fire with a good deal of orange and green in the flashes of light. The rubies outlining the wings have medium-light color and are well-matched to the large tourmaline forming the butterfly’s abdomen. The back of the brooch shows masterful à jour work with well-finished piercing to allow light through the stones. The back also retains the original gold pinstem and c-clasp that can be removed with a gold screw assembly. The brooch most likely originally had a comb attachment so the butterfly could be worn in the hair. The brooch is stamped with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2” x 2-7/8”. Weight: 27.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight (by estimation and formula): diamond, 2.39 cts; ruby, 14.26 cts; tourmaline, 6.87 cts; opal, .97 cts.

A lovely pair of classic Victorian earrings in the Etruscal Revival style featuring free-hanging drops of rich violetish-blue drops of lapis lazuli. The 15K yellow gold mountings are enhanced with twisted wire and bead decoration. The lapis is of the finest Afghan quality, with even color and only one tiny fleck of pyrite. The wires are marked "15 Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: length from top of wire, 1-3/4".

A chic Victorian egg pendant of black onyx accented with 14K yellow gold Gothic-style strapwork set with natural seed pearls. The pearls, though small, have particularly nice luster. The simple decoration and strong color contrast makes this a very elegant piece to be worn as a single pendant or as a group of necklace charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 15/16".

A 14K yellow gold gypsy ring with a hand-engraved scrolling motif to the shank on either side of a high-domed cabochon emerald. The emerald is graded as dark vivid green (G7/6) with moderate clarity and color enhancement typical of emeralds. The resulting color contrast with the gold setting is especially attractive, as is the classic tapering shape of the shank. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Dimensions: 7/16" wide, tapering to 5/32" at the back of the shank. Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: 1.03 carat.

A wonderful Victorian 18K yellow gold curb link chain interrupted at regular intervals with bi-color ("watermelon") tourmaline beads. The chain is finished with a fantastic clasp in the form of a lady's hand grasping floral-engraved loop. At 39" in length, the necklace can be worn doubled or perhaps even tripled. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 39" long. Weight: 67.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 215.0 carats.

An important 18K yellow gold and natural semi-baroque pearl necklace in the "Lierre" ("Ivy") design by Edouard Aimé Arnould. The necklace features five foliate plaques set with pearls flanked on either side with a long- and short-link chain. The sculptural quality of the leaves is enhanced with areas of bright polish contrasting with areas in a slightly matte finish, a technique repeated on the back sides, as well. The natural pearls have excellent luster with faintly lavender/rose overtones. In Victorian symbolism, ivy represented the bonds of love in marriage. One can imagine a bride, even today, wearing such a necklace with her gown! Each section of the necklace is stamped with French 18K marks, and the central plaque is signed "Arnould".

Arnould was among the most important of the French Art Nouveau jewelers and is well listed in most of the scholarly references of the period. He opened his studio at 7, rue Racine, Paris in 1890. In 1911, a French design journal credited him with "jewels of the best taste." Around 1900, Maison Arnould published a catalog. The final photograph in this listing shows the necklace as it was listed in the catalog. It's interesting to note that the necklace was available with or without the natural pearls, and that the price nearly doubled for the pearl version. Other pages of the catalog show the "Lierre" design used for pendants, bracelet charms, hair barrettes, brooches, rings, bracelets and cufflinks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: overall length, 16-1/2"; length of floral plaques together, 6-1/2"; center plaque, 2" x 1-3/4". Weight: 31.2 grams.

A late Victorian pendant (also has a brooch fitting) in the Arts & Crafts style featuring an Australian semi-black boulder opal of fine quality. The gemstone has large strong flashes of green and blue, moderated with some violet and just a hint of orange-red. The medium-dark body color creates an excellent contrast to the spectral colors, and the play-of-color shows equally in all directions. The boulder opal is cabochon cut and incorporates areas of the sandstone matrix (the host rock) on both the front and back sides (25% on the front and 60% on the back). Australian opals were a relatively recent discovery at the time Arts & Crafts jewelry became popular and the matrix appearance of some boulder opals was especially suitable to the style. The brooch retains the original extended pinstem and a movable bale that allows the piece to be worn as either a brooch or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

NOTE: This piece could easily be converted to a very striking ring.

Origin: England, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no cracking or crazing, there is natural pitting to the surface characteristic to the type of gemstone. Size: 1” x 13/16”. Opal Size: 24 x 19 x 7 mm. Approximate Opal Weight: 18.38 carats.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a style blending elements of Aesthetic and Art Nouveau design. The round faces are decorated with a finely-pierced design of grapevines complete with clusters of fruit. The faces are joined by chains to torpedo backs. These would be a wonderful gift for the true wine lover and connoisseur. Fully marked with French hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 5.8 grams.

A nicely-detailed late Victorian pin depicting a lion’s head. The open mouth grasps a 10-point old European-cut diamond, while each eye is set with a small cabochon ruby. The head is surrounded by flowing fur that hints at Art Nouveau styling. The design is similar to a tiger’s head brooch that was made by Alling & Co., and probably was made by one of Alling’s Newark competitors. The c-clasp is an old replacement. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, replaced clasp. Size: 1-7/32” x 7/8”. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

Attractive Victorian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks. Each face is in a figure-eight shape enclosed in an outer oval border. Collet-set Persian turquoise cabochons center each face. The faces are joined by chains. Indistinctly hallmarked. Tested and guaranteed at least 14K.

Circa 1870

Condition: excellent, all original

Dimensions: 5/8” x 7/16”

Weight: 9.5 grams.

A three-color faceted overlay glass locket in a rolled gold mounting. The glass is cut to show the layers of red, white and blue opaque glass. The back cover is ruby glass dark enough to appear opaque black unless held to the light.

Origin: France, ca. 1875

Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks

Dimensions: 1" x 13/16"

A fine Victorian locket in 10K yellow gold, the front face featuring an enameled bouquet of white lilies against a striking turquoise enameled background. In Victorian flower symbology, the white lily represented sweetness or purity. The surrounding areas of gold are ornately engraved in a swirly design that is repeated on the back cover around a shield-shaped reserve. The interior retains the original frame and glass cover. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca 1880

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no monogram or removal

Dimensions: 1" x 1-3/16"

Weight: 10.5 grams.

Heavy 18K gold figural watch fob seal depicting a Napoleonic grenadier (1804-1812). The soldier is depicted in the midst of tamping down his musket. The details are beautifully worked. The base appears to have had the original monogram removed. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• France, ca. 1870
• Excellent condition; monogram removed
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2" x 1-1/4"
• 10.9 grams

Lovely French Second Empire 18K yellow gold, ruby and pearl earrings. Each earring features a surmount set with a round ruby in a buttercup mounting suspending a scrolled drop terminating in a second ruby and seed pearl drop surrounded by an engraved horseshoe. The rubies are relatively pastel, with a soft reddish-pink coloring. The earrings have lots of movement and sparkle. The original wires are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1850
• Condition: Excellent
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" long (from top of ear wire); 1/2" wide.
• Weight: 3.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat

Victorian 15K gold garnet lover's knot hair locket. The locket features an unusually bright large garnet cabochon surrounded by a gold frame in a rope twist motif tied with a lover's knot to form the bail. The reverse features a small rock-crystal compartment containing woven hair. Hair lockets could either be love tokens or mourning jewelry or sentimental jewelry. The lover's knot does little to clarify which is the case for this particular piece, though the absence of an engraved date on the reverse suggests that it might have been a love token. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• England, circa 1835.
• 1" x 5/8"
• Weight: 6.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.33 carat

An 18K yellow gold medallion pendant or charm depicting Emperor Napoleon I. The design pictures Bonaparte as a young man, but the source appears to be Nicolas-Toussaint Charlet's portrait created in 1821, the year of the former Emperor's death. This image is largely credited with creating the myth of Napoleon that lasted throughout the 19th century. The medallion has superb, sharp detail shown in high relief. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, late 19th century
• 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• 12.6 grams

A wonderful Imperial Russian witch's heart brooch and pendant worked in silver-topped 14K gold and set with 78 rose cut diamonds and a heart-shaped garnet. Interestingly, the garnet is not cut in a standard heart shape, but in a slightly curved fashion that echoes the overall shape of the pin. The heart is topped with a ribbon motif. In Victorian jewelry symbolism, the witch's heart conveyed the meaning, "Bewitched by love." The brooch is Russian, but the pinstem and clasp were replaced around 1920, and at that time the brooch was then marked with a transitional Polish hallmark used 1920-21 to remark items that had been created during the time Poland was occupied by Imperial Russia. The brooch also retains the original Russian maker's mark "KK".

NOTE: The chain is shown for display purposes only.

• Russia, circa 1850
• 15/16" x 1 5/16"
• 7.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.0 carats; garnet, 2.66 carats

A Victorian 18K gold locket in the shape of an elongated heart centering an enameled plaque depicting a lovebird delivering a love letter amidst a bower of roses. The plaque is outlined with an ornate border of black champleve enamel. The gold is highlighted with lightly engraved decoration which is repeated on the back. The back cover is more ornately engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably English, ca. 1840
• Very good condition; a small ding on the left edge of the heart and minor pinpoints on the back cover
• 2" (excluding bail) x 1 1/8"
• 9.0 grams

A fine Victorian shell cameo pendant/pin depicting Diana, goddess of the hunt, the moon and nature (Artemis in Green mythology). The setting is beautifully worked in the Etruscan taste with delicately formed bead, wire and rosette decoration. The carving makes nice use of the shell's coloring to add details to the goddess' gown. She holds three of her attributes—a bow, a quiver of arrows and a crescent moon tiara. Diana/Artemis, being a virgin goddess, was regarded as the protector of women, especially during childbirth. The cameo is indistinctly signed by the artist. The back retains the original pinstem and pendant hook. The clasp is a slightly later replacement in 10K. The pinstem is stamped for 12K gold and the setting is tested and guaranteed 12K.

• England, circa 1865
• Excellent condition; clasp replaced; no cracks to shell
• 2-5/32" x 1-3/4"
• 14.25 grams

A Victorian shell cameo depicting Aurora/Eos, goddess of the dawn set in a 14K gold frame decorated in the Etruscan taste withe beads and rosettes. The goddess is shown with her chief attribute, a pair of feathered wings in her hair (not to be confused with Psyche who has butterfly wings). The back retains the original pinstem and folding bail, but the clasp is an old replacement. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1870
• Excellent condition; no cracks to shell; replaced clasp
• 1-11/16" x 1-5/16"
• 7.4 grams