Catalog (2407)

An attractive 800 silver and Baltic amber ring, the oval cabochon amber in a silver setting reminiscent of Jensen’s designs from the 1930s. The amber is natural has not been quench-crackled. The back of the shank is signed with an unidentified maker’s mark and has Polish hallmarks for 800 silver.

• ORIGIN Poland, ca. 1970
• CONDITION excellent; silver has been lightly cleaned to retain patina
• FINGER SIZE 7-1/4
• DIMENSIONS crown, 1” x 3/4"
• WEIGHT 7.0 grams

A pin featuring three horses, each sporting a red enamel bridle by the New York maker Sloan & Company. The horses are finely detailed. The clasp is stamped with Sloan's 14K mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1920.
• DIMENSIONS 1 3/4" x 9/16".
• WEIGHT 5.4 grams.
• CONDITION excellent; no enamel damage; sharp detail.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold comet pin worked in the Etruscan Revival style. The pin is decorated with ornate granulated rosettes and ropetwist motifs surrounding a single square Persian turquoise cabochon set at the comet's nucleus. The gold surfaces are bloomed for a soft sheen. Tested and guaranteed 14K.The pin was likely produced to commemorate the appearance of Halley's Comet in 1835.

• Origin: America, ca. 1835.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" long.
• Weight: 4.4 grams.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no dings or missing decorative elements.

A glamorous pair of drop earrings in a formal Georgian style set with rose cut diamonds and richly colored pear-shaped rhodolite garnets. The gems are set in silver-topped 12K gold to heighten the color of the diamonds, in the manner of period Georgian jewels. The main body of the earring is hinged and swings freeely from the surmounts. The earrings are completed with a diamond-set fringe at the bottom edge. The rose cut diamonds have nice sparkle that nicely complements the rich purple color of the garnets. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

• Dimensions: 2 3/8" long from top of earwire.
• Weight: 8.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .62 carat; rhodolite garnet, 1.4 carats.

A fine Victorian 14K gold mesh and onyx cameo bracelet. The center cameo depicts a classical youth flanked by four maidens, all in Greek or Roman attire. The cameos are nicely carved with good detail. The clasp is concealed by the male cameo. A heavy gold mesh makes up the remainder of the bracelet. The gold has a slight rose tint that contrasts nicely with the black and white of the cameos. The tongue of the clasp is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 7 5/8" long; 13/16" wide.
• Weight: 34.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to cameos; all original except the safety chain added at a later date (easily removed).

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A very nice small-size silver plate wine taster in the classical style. The bottom features the typical convex bottom surrounded by concave "godrons" adn "cupules." intended to create high and low spots to better appreciate the color of the wine as light is reflected through it. The open shape also allows the bouquet to develop quickly so the wine can be tested easily. The snake handle is generally seen on tastevins from the region of Bourgogne. The tastevin bears an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 2 1/4" diameter excluding handle.
• Condition: excellent, no dings, sharp detail.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks featuring oval carnelian cabochons simply set in 14K yellow gold mountings. The carnelians have exceptionally rich color and translucency, creating a particularly striking look. Each cufflink is stamped "585" for 14K and also with an unidentified European maker's mark "FA".

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 11/16".
• Weight: 9.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A set of six sterling silver coffee spoons by Asprey & Co. Each spoon has a brownish-black bakelite “coffee bean”—a decorative device popular in England during the Art Deco period. Each spoon is fully hallmarked for Asprey, 1931. The spoons are presented in their original silk- and velvet-lined fitted box, the lid of which is imprinted “Asprey/166 Bond St/London”.

• Origin: England, 1931.
• Dimensions: spoons, 3 7/8" long.
• Weight: 43.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms; case is like new.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a brushed finish with prong-set sapphires. The design of a cut-out triangle superimposed over a solid triangle creates a layered effect that lends a nice feeling of depth to the cufflinks. The toggle backs are marked "14K".

li>Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Weight: 13.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.
• Condition: excellent, one toggle has a minute ding on the edge.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A boxed set of sterling silver demitasse spoons by Paye & Baker. The set comprises two each of three different floral themes, all worked in the same intaglio style with glossy flowers and foliage against a stippled background. Two of the spoons are decorated with a pattern of wild roses, two with morning glories and two with pansies. The edges of the stems and handles are shaped to match the patterns. The bowls are finished with matte gilding. The backs are hallmarked by Paye & Baker and are marked "Sterling". The company made only a small range of products, but their Art Nouveau motifs were expertly designed.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 4" long.
• Weight: 38.8 grams.
• Condition: spoons, excellent condition, typical light fading of gilding on bowls; box has typical discoloration and wear.

An elegant classic-style French silver tastevin of traditional form. The bowl is decorated with raised "perles", concave "cupules" and elongated "godrons" for assessing the depth of color in both red and white wines. The curved sides help concentrate the aroma, so only a very small amount of wine has to be poured to judge quality. The looped handle allows the tastevin to be worn suspended from a chain. Tastevins with round thumbpieces are generally from the Paris region. The handle is marked for first standard silver (950/1000 pure silver) and also has partially obscured master silversmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 2 11/16" diameter (excluding handle).
• Weight: 37.0 grams.
• Excellent condition; two small dings on bottom, mostly hidden by the design and two very small (1/16") dings on the upper rim.

A fine pair of mid-century modern 14K yellow gold and diamond cufflinks by Larter. The heavy gold faces are decorated with parallel lines and the canted edges are bead-set with brilliant round-cut diamonds. The diamonds are of very good quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The stones are set in white gold enhanced with milgrain borders. The backs are completed with the older type of toggle mounting. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950.

Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 1/2".

Weight: 13.5 grams.

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

Condition: excellent; all original.

A classic pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque black champleve enamel borders. The borders are further accented with a gold strapwork motif. The connectors are marked with unidentified American hallmarks, “HB” and “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 19/32” diameter.
• Weight: 9.2 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A classic silverplated single-serving cocktail shaker by Napier in 1934 specifically to be sold at Saks Fifth Avenue. The shakers were made in two variations, one with a dial on the top indicating the type of cocktail within and this version, with the profile of a rooster on the lid. The shaker has a built-in strainer and pouring spout. When removed, the lid becomes a footed cocktail glass. The bottom of the shaker is stamped "Napier Pat. Pend."

• Origin: America, ca. 1934.
• Dimensions: 6 1/2" tall.
• Condition: very good; light wear to plating as is typical of all Napier silverplated items; a pinpoint and a 1/4" ding to the side of the cap/cup.

An uncommon silver tastevin, the bottom inset with a Mexican silver coin featuring the likeness of King Ferdinand VII of Spain, the last Spanish emperor to rule over Mexico. The coin is dated 1821, the year Mexico became independent of Spain. The tastevin is constructed in classic French style, with a coiled snake handle, but it lacks the embellishments usually seen on French examples. The bowl is simply decorated with a hammered surface. The tastevin probably dates to the reign of the Emperor Maximilian, who ruled Mexico’s Second Empire (1864-67). Maximilian was established as emperor by the French Emperor Napoleon III, and French decorative arts became very popular among the wealthy of Mexican society.

• Origin: Mexico, ca. 1864.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 9 x 11.5 cm (3-9/16 x 4-9/16 in).
• Weight: 112.0 grams.