Catalog (2076)

A handsome 14K gold and amethyst dress set presented in its original fitted leather, velvet and silk case embossed "Tiffany & Co. New York Paris London." The amethyst cabochons are simply mounted in collet settings. The gold has a slightly rosy tint that beautifully accents the rich color of the amethysts. Tiffany relied on Newark makers such as Krementz, Larter and Carrington to supply many of their cufflinks. Sometimes, the pieces were re-hallmarked by Tiffany, and sometimes not. These cufflinks are not marked, but are etched with individual inventory numbers as Tiffany fequently did. They set is original to the fitted case. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Condition: cufflinks and studs, excellent; case, negligible wear.
• Dimensions: cufflinks faces, 11/16" x 3/8"; studs, 5/16" diameter.
• Weight: 12.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 27.49 carats.

A lovely Victorian pendant/pin in a snowflake pattern. The 14K yellow mounting is set with seed pearls and sapphires around the central old mine cut diamond. The design is very elegant and delicate. The back retains the original pinstem/clasp and pendant loop. Marked 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: one pearl deficient; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 3.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .18 carat; diamond, .03 carat.

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with an old mine cut diamond. The pearls have very attractive lustre and the diamond has nice color and clarity (J/VS2). The back retains the original pendant hook and pinstem/clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 4.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A boxed set of six pewter decanter labels or bottle tags for Scotch, bourbon, gin, vodka, brandy and sherry by Stieff for Historic Newport. Newport, RI was one of the most important pewter-making cities of Colonial America, and these tags are made according the 18th century models.

• Origin: America, ca. 1976.
• Condition: tags are excellent; box shows significant wear.
• Dimensions: tags, 2-5/8 x 1-1/4" (excluding chains).

A very nice vintage French 18K gold curb link chain. The weight is sufficient to support a rather heavy locket or pendant. Stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France.
• Length: 22 3/4"; width 2.5mm.
• Weight: 10.6 grams.

An extraordinary late Georgian 18K gold ring set with a carnelian carved into the leering face of a satyr classically portrayed with a goatee, a snub nose and pointed ears. The carved gemstone was likely already several centuries old when it was set into this ring. The expert carving is only eclipsed by the extraordinary artistry of the goldsmith. The bold shank is entirely covered in flower and foliage appliques expertly worked in rose, green and yellow gold. The carved stone is set in a bezel with matching decoration. The shank is stamped with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Satyrs were companions of the god Dionysus/Bacchus. They had the ears, tails and other very specific parts of horses along with grotesquely comical human faces. They were noted for a great enjoyment of wine, women and general carousing.

The ring was purchased from the family descendants of the French artist Carle Vernet (1758-1836). Vernet was something of a dandy right up to his death at the age of 78, and according to family tradition, the ring belonged to him. Vernet was a leading equestrian painter at Napoleon’s court as was awarded the Legion of Honor by the Emperor for his depictions of great French victories. He was likewise favored by Louis XVIII during the Bourbon Restoration. During the Directory period, he was famed for his humorous watercolor caricatures depictions of the ridiculous fashions worn by Paris’ high society.

• Origin: France, ca. 1810 (carnelian considerably older).
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Dimensions: carnelian crown, 13/16” x 11/16”; shank tapers from 1/2" at the edge of the crown to 3/8” at the back.
• Weight: 10.8 grams.

A fine 10x19mm navettte-shaped opal set in an Art Deco 14K yellow gold setting enhanced with bright champleve enamels in shades of dark and light green, red, and black. The opal has a very nice "pinfire" pattern with an unusually generous amount of red/orange play of color. The pattern is evenly dispersed, with color throughout the stone. Unlike some of the other opal patterns, pinfire has the distinction of showing pattern when viewed from any direction. Even the bottom of the stone visible through the mounting has nice color and pattern. The colors of the stone are nicely accented with the enamels on the mounting. The shank is engraved in a floral pattern and is accented at the shoulders with floral appliques worked in white gold. The interior of the shank is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
Dimensions: crown, 7/8" x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 6.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; no crazing, scratching or pitting to opal.

A colorful pair of 18K gold and gemstone earrings from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes amethyst, several shades of citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. Each earring is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s "S" and star hallmarks.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32” wide; 11/16" long.
• Weight: 3.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.7 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark. One side of the shank is engraved with a star centering a small diamond, also a Stern branding.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide at front, tapering to 5/32” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 4.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight:2.14 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A heavy vintage 18K yellow gold chain in the elegant "Russian Braid" style. The chain is quite substantial and can be worn alone or with a heavy pendant. Stamped with French 18K guarantee marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 24-3/4" long.
• Weight: 18.7 grams.

An unusual vintage 14K gold equestrian keychain by Tiffany & Co. The chain has a fob on either end, one in the form of a horseshoe and the other in the form of a fully three-dimensions horse head. The head is nicely detailed and sparkles with a pair of bright ruby eyes. The rubies, though small, have very fine bright color. The back of the horseshoe is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Keys are added by holding the chain against one side of the horseshoe and slipping on the key. When the chain is no longer being held next to the horseshoe, the key stays securely between the two fobs.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; a small pinpoint ding underneat the bottom of the horse's neck.
• Dimensions: overall length, 4-5/8"; horse head, 3/4" x 15/16".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.

A wonderful boxed set of six 800 silver Jugendstil (“Art Nouveau”) demitasse or chocolate spoons, each featuring a scene from different Brothers Grimm fairy tales. The tales include “Bremen Town Musicians”, “The Frog Prince”, “Little Red Riding Hood”, “Hansel & Gretel”, “Sleeping Beauty”, and “Puss in Boots”. Bruckmann, one of the most important Imperial German silversmiths of the Jugendstil period, worked with many leading designers. In this case, the designer was Hugo Cauer who created the “Märchen” (“Fairy Tales”) line in 1903/04. Bruckmann and Cauer were responsible for the most important silver pieces entered into Germany’s display at the 1900 World Exposition in Paris. The “Fairy Tale” design occasionally appears on children’s table ware such as napkin rings or drinking cups, so it’s possible the spoons were intended to do double duty as chocolate spoons, as well. The spoons are presented in their original fitted box marked with the logo of the luxury jeweler Oscar Stodt. The back of each is stamped with Stodt’s retailer’s mark, as well as Bruckmann’s maker’s mark and appropriate hallmarks for 800 silver.

• Origin: Germany, ca. 1904.
• Condition: excellent, original gilding intact.
• Dimensions: spoons, 3-3/4” long.
• Weight: 55.6 grams.

A lovely pair of French Victorian 18K gold earrings set with sapphires and rose cut diamonds. Each earring features a prong-set blue sapphire surrounded by a cluster of ten rose cut diamonds, bead-set in an engraved background. The backs are finished with a hand-pierced gallery. The sapphires and diamonds have particularly good color and clarity for the period. This style of earrings was popular in the 1850's when popular hairstyles that covered the ears rendered large earrings irrelevant. Smaller earrings, "dormeuses" ("sleepers") were worn to keep the piercings open while awaiting the inevitable return of grander styles. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1855.
• Condition: very good, all original, a minor repair to one earwire.
• Dimensions: 3/8" x 9/16" (from top of earwire).
• Weight: 2.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .38 carat; diamond, .10 carat.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The 47” chain has ornate scrolling plaques separated by smaller simple links. The fancy links are further highlighted with rope-twist and beaded decoration. The generous length allows the chain to be worn doubled or tripled. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular from the Second Empire through the beginning of the 20th century. This example is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; original clasp replaced with a more secure lobster claw clasp.
• Length: 47”.
• Weight: 34.3 grams.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The 45” chain has ornate scrolling plaques separated by smaller simple links. The fancy links are further highlighted with beaded decoration. The generous length allows the chain to be worn doubled or tripled. In fact, the chain has an ingenious clasp that holds the necklace at just the right staggered length (21” and 25”)when doubled. The chain can be worn doubled, or at full length by releasing one of the clasps. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular from the Second Empire through the beginning of the 20th century. This example is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Length: 45”.
• Weight: 34.6 grams.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold bracelet by Tiffany & Co. featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals. The center crystal depicts a horse and rider jumping a fence and is flanked by a matching pair of crystals depicting hounds. The crystals are separated by links in the shape of horseshoes overlaid with bits. Sporting bracelets set with Essex crystals are uncommon and examples by major makers such as Tiffany are nearly impossible to find. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co./14K/Pat. Sept. 1924".

• Origin: America, 1924.
• Condition: very good overall, the crystals have minor water discoloration.
• Dimensions 7-5/8" long, 11/16" wide.
• Weight: 18.3 grams.

A delightful set of six sterling silver Art Deco cocktail picks with finials in the form of the Devil. The little naked figure grasps a flaming torch in one upraised hand and his tail is replaced by the business end of the cocktail pick. No doubt, the picks were intended to remind one, rather tongue in cheek, of the sin of drinking! Each pick is fully hallmarked for Barker Brothers Silver Ltd. The picks are presented in their original velvet- and silk-lined fitted case.

• Origin: Birmingham, England, 1929.
• Condition: picks are excellent; box is very good with minor discoloration to the velvet lining.
• Dimensions: picks, 3-17/32” long.
• Weight: 26.8 grams.

A classic 19th century French silver tastevin of traditional form and the bottom inset with a silver jeton the reign of Louis XV. The sides of the tastevin are decorated with the traditional raised “perles,” recessed “cupules,” and elongated “godrons” for assessing the depth of color and concentration of a wine. The jeton, dating to 1773, depicts the profile of the king surrounded by the Latin inscription “Louis XV, Christian King” and is signed by the engraver, Pierre-Simon-Benjamin Duvivier. The reverse bears the coat of arms of the Duchy of Bourgogne and the inscription “Comitia Burgundiae 1773.” Silver jetons were struck by various civic governments (in this case, the Three Estates of Burgundy) and by the Crown itself to honor important people or significant historic occasions. The taster is completed with traditional handle in the form of a pair of stylized snakes grasping an apple in their mouths. The handle is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; jeton in nearly mint condition.
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” x 3-1/16” x 11/16".
• Weight: 34.6 grams.