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Haroldo Burle Marx 18K Gold & Amethyst Forma Livre Ring


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Directory: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1970: Item # 1379844
Kensington House Antiques
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Maryland
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A fascinating 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The amethyst chosen for this ring has distinct color zoning that creates an interesting interplay of deep and light purple coloring. The setting is finished in the florentine style typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior is stamped "750" for 18K. The ring is unsigned, but is definitely by Burle Marx.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of Indian. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

  • Brazil, ca 1965
  • Very good condition; very light wear consistent with age to the stone visible under 10x magnification
  • Crown Dimensions: 1-3/16 long; 7/8" wide; 3/4" high.
  • Shank tapers to 1/4" at the back
  • Finger Size: 5-1/4
  • Weight: 23.4 grams.