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Burle Marx 18K Gold & Forma Livre Aquamarine Ring


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Directory: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Designer Signed: Pre 1960: Item # 1381052
Kensington House Antiques
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Maryland
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A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of Brazilian gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The aquamarine’s deep, dusky blue color contrasts beautifully with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Burle Marx’s pieces. The shape of the stone also creates a wonderful linearity that looks beautiful on the finger. The interior of the shank is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jewelry of Hollywood stars Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon.
  • Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965.
  • Dimensions: crown, 1-1/8” x 1/2".
  • Finger Size: 4 (can be enlarged).
  • Condition: excellent; no abrasions; no dings.