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14K Gold, Montana Sapphire & Pearl “V” Victory Brooch

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All Items: Estate Jewelry:Gold:Deco: Pre 1950: item # 557867

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Kensington House Antiques
Kensington
Maryland
(301)942-0955

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$1750

14K Gold, Montana Sapphire & Pearl “V” Victory Brooch
Extraordinary patriotic “V for Victory” brooch in 14K yellow gold set with Montana sapphires and pearls. The quality of workmanship is superb, and the stones are magnificent. During World War II, it was very difficult to get genuine gemstones because of blockades, so most jewelers re-set stones from older pieces or used synthetic stones. This brooch makes use of one of America’s few truly gem-quality minerals—Montana sapphires, probably from the Yogo Gulch area. The square-cut sapphires are invisibly set, copying the style created by Van Cleef & Arpels in the Art Deco period. Groups of three sapphires alternate with prong-set pearls of very nice quality. The bottom of the “V” is set with an old European cut sapphire. The gold setting is very finely millegrained.

The most amazing part of this brooch, however, is that it is a mechanical piece. It can be straightened to be worn as a bar pin when one is feeling less patriotic. Even opened as a bar pin, however, the brooch suggests airplane propellers which was another popular patriotic motif. Victory pins were popular, but those in gold and set with genuine stones are quite rare. This is the ONLY mechanical example we’ve ever seen. The side is marked “Pat. Apl’d For” and also bears an indistinct maker’s mark.

Origin: America, 1940-45. Condition: mint. Size: 1-13/16” x 1-13/16” in the “V” formation; 3-1/2” x 1/4" in bar formation. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.81 carats.



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