Michael Good is considered by his goldsmith peers to have perfected the technique of “anticlastic raising”, itself recognized as one of the most technically difficult and time-consuming methods of jewelry making. His pieces are represented in major museums and private collections throughout the world. Good still makes the “Lilliane” brooch, but his studio representatives indicate that it is a particularly rare piece because it is so difficult and time-consuming, and that they are usually made to order, rather than for stock. It is made in two sizes, this size being the larger. The brooch in this size currently sells for $2,000.

The anticastic raising process involves beating a piece of gold into a sheet, cutting it into the desired shape, and then using a series of hammers and shaped spikes to create a series of elliptical bends at right angles to each other (similar to the way a horse saddle is shaped). Good’s approach draws the gold out into a sturdy wire, so that the clasp becomes part of the design itself. He uses no findings (manufactured clasps, earwires, hinges, etc.) in his work.

Signed “M. Good” and marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3-1/2” x 2”. Weight: 16.5 grams.