The setting is of the finest quality. Each element is fully articulated and moves independently of the others. The edges of each element, as well as the edges of collets are millegrained for a fine finish. The back of the central plaque and pendant settings feature a caged construction. This technique provides strength for the heavier elements of the necklace, while maintaing a light appearance. It also serves to push the pendant away from the skin a bit so it can move more freely.

The stones are superb. The featured amethyst is the rich, clear, intense purple found primarily in stones originating in Siberia. It has flawless clarity and the cutting has superior symmetry and polish. The demantoids, likewise stones originating in Russia, show a range of color from light to very intense. The smaller diamonds, ranging in size from one to five points, are of fine quality, mostly in the VVS-VS clarity range and F-I color range. The design employs a total of 153 diamonds, 66 demantoid garnets, and one amethyst. The stones include old mine, old cushion, square cushion, and rose cuts.

The necklace bears the French "tete d'aigle" guarantee mark for 18K gold and belonged to a Russian family. The amethyst and demantoids are certainly Russian in origin, and the diamonds may be Russian, as well. This particular color combination was a favored theme in late Imperial Russian jewelry, sparked in part by its popularity among the younger crown princesses of Europe including Alexandra in England and Alexandra in Russia. There was a tremendous cross-fertilization of Russian and French decorative arts during the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the Russian nobility and upper class purchased their jewels from Parisian jewelers. It is most likely that this necklace was made on special order in Paris (hence the presence of the guarantee mark, but the absence of the maker's mark), and then transported back to Russia. Given the use of predominantly Russian gems and the assortment of older cuts used, it's likely that the stones were taken from an older piece of jewelry already in the possession of the necklace's owner and were re-set in Paris into this piece.

Origin: France/Russia, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, the clasp is replaced. Size: overall length, 20"; plaque width, 4-13/16"; pendant, 1-1/4" x 13/16". Weight: 41.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 4.6 carats; demantoid garnet, 1.98 carats; amethyst, 16.48 carats.