Catalog (2407)

A classic 18K gold “Open Heart” in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design became one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable pieces. This pendant is the second largest of the four sizes available. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti “ and is fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece currently retails for $1925.

NOTE: The pendant is shown on a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 2000.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 1-1/8".
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets from the "Cometes" line by Chanel Haute Joaillerie. The bracelets are designed as simple band of channel-set brilliant round diamonds punctuated at regular intervals with 5-armed stars, each bead-set with a brilliant round diamond. Though the bracelets appear to be solid, each of the sections is hinged at the star, so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable to wear. The clasps are hidden beneath one of the stars. Each bracelet comprises 72 diamonds of exceptional quality, with F/G color and VVS clarity. The total carat weight of each bracelet is approximately 3.5 carats. Each bracelet is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Chanel." Each is also marked with its unique serial number.

Chanel's fine jewelry is sold in only a few of the company's major boutiques (Paris, New York, etc.) and is never sold at any other retailer. These bracelets are accompanied by a letter on Chanel's letterhead dated May 6, 2009 indicating a replacement value of $19,700 each. The letter includes the information that the bracelets were originally purchased from the New York boutique in 2007 and the serial numbers noted in the letter match those on the bracelets.

Stars were one of Coco Chanel's favorite motifs and she used them in the very first piece of fine jewelry she designed for herself in 1932. Chanel launched its fine jewelry collection in 2003 with the "Cometes" line which uses five-armed stars in endless varieties.

Origin: France, 2007. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: interior opening, 2-3/16" x 1-3/4"; width, 5/16", interior circumference, 6-3/16". Weight: pair, 48.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.00 carats (pair).

NOTE: Though they look wonderful worn together, we will consider selling the bracelets separately.

Phenomenal Art Deco cocktail shaker and six matching cocktail glasses by Gorham. The gently curving surface has a quilted appearance created by deeply incised vertical and horizontal lines. The spout and handle are attached to the body with a cobweb-like decorative device. The cocktail glasses are raised on tall stems with knops decorated to match the bowls. The same decorative element is repeated where the stems meet the flaring bases. The interiors of the bowls retain the original gilding. The bottom of each piece is fully hallmarked for Gorham with the year mark for 1928. The shaker is marked with the pattern number GA 13825 and the glasses with GA 13826.

This set was featured in Gorham's 1929 catalogue under the heading, "Sterling Splendor: Eminently Indispensible Silver Necessities of the Luxurious Modern Home." The set was the most expensive shaker offered by Gorham and cost the equivalent of a car or a small farm. Partly as a result of its sellling price, this set is one of the rarest cocktail shakers ever made. Gorham produced silver in the Art Deco and modernist style for only a short period (1926-29) under the guidance of famed silversmith Erik Magnussen worked there. Though it has been attributed to Magnussen (Visakay), it was probably not one of his designs since none of the very few examples are signed by the designer.

Origin: America, 1928. Condition: excellent; shaker has no dings, deep scratches or monograms; two of the glasses have a small flat ding on the edge of the weighted base. Size: shaker, 12" tall; glasses, 5-1/8" tall. Weight: 2,064 grams.

An exquisite and very fine 18K yellow gold jewel by Henry Dunay, one of the greatest American jewelers of the latter 20th century. The piece comprises a 32" necklace of domed, oval gold links joined by polished arched connectors. The outer surfaces of the links are stippled in a roughly textured finish that contrast nicely with the arched connectors. Two of the links have hidden hinged clasps so that the necklace can be separated into a shorter necklace and a bracelet. Two of the arched connectors are joined together at the midpoint to suspend a detachable pendant inspired by ancient Mayan motifs. The pendant is quite large, but the openwork and geometric approach to the design maintain a sense of lightness. The pendant can also be worn as a brooch. All pieces are signed by Dunay and are marked 18K.

The piece is accompanied by a written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) indicating a total replacement value of $34,000. Mr. Dunay, himself, indicated that he recalled making the piece in 1968 or 1969. At that time he did not systematically document his creations, so the jewel has not appeared in published works. He suggested he would charge $34,000 to recreate the piece today.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: full necklace length, 32" bracelet length, 8-1/2"; shortened necklace length, 23-1/2"; pendant/brooch, 2-11/16" diameter. Weight: 249.09 grams/8.009troy ounces.

Exquisitely rare Art Nouvean plaque pendant by master jeweler and enamelist Eugene Feuillatre. The overall bell-shaped outline mimics the shape of the flowers surrounded the golden maiden at the center of the pendant. The flowers are worked with en plein enamels in subtle shades of pale green and gold translucent enamels, and are surrounded by openwork filled with plique-a-jour enamels in milky opalescent shades of pale rose and blue. Every detail is perfectly worked. The best of the French Art Nouveau jewelers believed that a jewel should look as good from the back as from the front. The back of this piece features fine hand-engraved details showing the maiden's flowing hair and the delicate veining of the flowers' leaves and petals. the back is signed with Feutillatre's cartouche and is marked with a bigorne (a 19th century French guard against forgeries) and the "tete d'aigle" guarantee for 18K gold.

Eugene Feuillatre was born in Dukerque in 1870 and began exploring enameling techniques at the age of 18. He was hired by Lalique to execute his enamel designs and continued that association until around 1898 when he exhibited to great acclaim at the Paris Salon of the Societe des Artistes Francaises, where the Musee des Art Decoratifs (the decorative arts wing of the Louvre) acquired one of his works for its permanent collection. By the following year, he was exhibiting regularly at the New Gallery (London) and the Libre Esthetique (Brussels) alongside jewelry luminaries such as Lalique and Fouquet. Feuillatre exhibited successfully at the international expositions in Paris (1900) and Milan (1902). Today, he is considered among the greatest French fathers of Art Nouveau jewels.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, absolutely no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 2-9/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 13.7 gr.

A stunning Art Deco platinum ring featuring an antique cushion cut 9.03-carat Ceylon sapphire flanked on either side by three baguette diamonds arranged in a stepped pattern. The sapphire is graded on the GIA scale as vB5/4 (medium tone, moderate-strong saturation, violetish blue color), with eye-clean clarity and excellent cut. The stone's internal characteristics suggest Ceylon as the most likely origin. The overall look is a lovely cornflower blue with a tinge of violet mixed in. The stone is brilliant and easily stands up to the side diamonds, graded as F/VS1. The shank is stamped with French hallmarks for platinum and for 18K (the prongs holding the sapphire are 18K white gold). The interior of the shank is stamped with a serial number and a maker's signature that is now obscured. A stone of this size and quality, complete with a serial number, would suggest a major Parisian house as the maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent; the shank is in very good condition; minute scattered facet junction wear on the sapphire. Dimensions: crown, 11/16" x 1/2". Finger Size: 6-1/4. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 9.03 cts; diamond, .60 ct.

A phenomenal Edwardian platinum, diamond and amethyst bow brooch by Cartier. Four tromp l'oeil amethyst loops, each surrounded in old European cut diamonds, flank a center 1.08 carat, J/K, VS2 old European cut diamond.

Each of the double loops of the bow appears to be set with two amethysts, but there is in fact only one amethyst on each side. The gemstones are precision-cut to fit perfectly into the platinum setting and give the appearance of being four stones. The amethysts are graded as medium, moderately strong Purple (P5/4) in color, with eye-clean clarity. This is the color and intensity sometimes termed "Siberian".

The 104 old mine cut and rose cut diamonds along the platinum borders total approximately 2.94 carats range from VS2 to SI2 clarity and H-J color.

The platinum setting is beautifully crafted, with a pierced gallery and engraved details around the collet setting of the center stone.

The brooch is hallmarked with the extremely rare master goldsmith's mark used by Cartier for only a three-year period, 1919-1922.

Origin: Paris, France, 1919-1922. Condition: very good, there is a small chip on the inside edge of each amethyst near the junction with the center diamond, visible upon very close inspection in strong raking light (one visible only from the reverse). Size: 3" x 27/32". Weight: 18.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 22.68 carats; diamond, 4.02 carats.

A stunning early Art Deco platinum bracelet set with diamonds and emeralds. The bracelet comprises seven rectangular plaques, each centered with an old European cut diamond. The plaques are hand-pierced in an ornate foliate pattern accented with a total of 84 smaller old European and single cut diamonds and 70 calibre-cut natural emeralds. The primary diamonds (two .44ct; two .46ct; two .55ct; and one .61ct) are very well matched and are graded G/SI1. Each plaque is slightly arched to accommodate the curve of the wrist. The clasp has a hidden safety catch and is stamped with French platinum hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1925.

Condition: excellent, all original, normal wear to emerald surfaces consistent with age.

Size: 11/32” wide; 6-3/4” long.

Weight: 27.5 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 6.22 cts; emerald, 1.47 cts.

An exceptional Boucheron cocktail ring set with nine round brilliant diamonds and thirteen round emeralds. The diamonds are graded as E/VVS1 and the emeralds have intensely saturated medium-dark green color and very good clarity. The emeralds are characteristic of stones from Colombia. The glamorous marquise shape is generously sized, covering the entire first portion of the finger. The stones are clustered tightly together so almost no gold shows from the top, and layered so the crown rises more than a half-inch from the surface of the finger. The interior of the shank is signed "Boucheron Paris", "Or 750", "51469". The exterior is stamped with the French guarantee mark and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1-3/16" x 3/4". Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.75 cts; emerald, 3.75 cts. Boucheron's exceptional diamond and emerald cocktail ring set in 18K yellow gold packs a punch of color and glitter. The glamorous marquise shape covers the entire first joint of the finger with shimmering gemstones. The stones are layered tightly together so almost no gold shows through and layered so that the crown of the ring stands more than a half-inch off the finger. The nine round brilliant cut diamonds have E color and VVS1 clarity, and the twelve emeralds have intensely saturated color xcellent cut and clarity. The ring

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold earrings in a waterfall or cascade motif by Chaumet. Each earring is composed of five strands of bezel-set gemstones of varying lengths. They are designed so three of the strands appear to descend from the front of the earlobe and two strands from the back. Each of the gemstones is fully articulated so the strands swing freely when being worn. The cascade design is a more modern interpretation of a classic Art Deco style. As would be expected of an haute joaillerie piece by Chaumet, the gemstones are of superb quality. The diamonds are graded as G-H color and VVS2 clarity. The emeralds are graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6); the rubies as medium-dark strong slightly purplish-red (slpR 6/5); and the sapphires as medium-dark strong violetish-Blue (vB 6/6). All the colored stones have eye-clean clarity. In other words, the colored stones are of very fine quality, with intensely bright colors and excellent clarity. The clip backs have a spring-loaded tension mechanism that holds the earrings securely but comfortably. The earrings are fully marked with French 18K hallmarks and are signed “Chaumet Paris.” More importantly, they also bear the master goldsmith’s mark for Chaumet, indicating the earrings were made by Chaumet’s in-house workshops.

Origin: France, ca. 1990. Condition: 1-9/16 in. long; 13/16 in. wide. Weight: 30.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 3.2 cts; sapphire, 2.32 cts; ruby, 1.80 cts; emerald, 1.58 cts.

A magnificent bracelet comprising seven gold coins spanning the reigns of six Medieval and Renaissance French kings from 1429 to 1610. L to R: (1) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Henri III, dated 1587; (2) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Charles IX, dated 1566; (3) écu d’or au soleil du dauphiné from the reign of François I, issued 1515-1528; (4) royal d’or from the reign of Charles VII le Victorieux, issued 1429-1431; (5) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of François I, issued 1515-1519; (6) écu d’or au soleil from the reign of Henri IV, issued 1590-1610; and (7) henri d’or from the reign of Henri II, dated 1559. The larger center coin is 24K gold and the other six are 23K. The coins are mounted, probably around 1900, in simple 18K gold collet settings that do not detract from the beauty of the coins. All of the coins are very near the top rarity ratings for coin collectors, and had they not been set into the bracelet, their current numismatic value would be around $22,000. The pendant came from the family that owned the Medieval French coin pendant in our collection.

Henri III (r 1575-1589) was the last king from the House of Valois. He was bullied by his mother, Catherine de Médicis, tried to marry Queen Elizabeth I despite being openly gay, and was eventually assassinated by a Catholic zealot.

Charles IX (r 1562-1589) was Henri III’s older brother and was also bullied by their mother Catherine with whom he orchestrated the Saint Bartholomew’s Day Massacre that killed 70,000 French Protestants.

François I (r 1515-1547) was France’s Renaissance king, known for building projects such as the Châteaux at Fontainebleau, Amboise, and Chambord, and for bringing Leonardo da Vinci (and the Mona Lisa) to France in the artist’s later years.

Charles VII “le Victorieux” or "le Bien Servi (“the Victorious” or “the Well-Served”) (r 1422-1461) was put on the throne through the efforts of Jeanne d’Arc who helped him win the Hundred Years’ War. The coin was minted right around the same year Jeanne was burned at the stake for witchcraft.

Henri IV “le Grand,” “le Bon Roi,” or “le Vert Galant” (“the Great,” “the Good King,” or “the Green Gallant”) (r 1590-1610) was the first king from the House of Bourbon. Though he was originally a Protestant, he converted to Catholicism to claim the throne, famously remarking “Paris is worth a Mass.” He pardoned all Protestants with the Edict of Nantes and was promptly assassinated by yet another Catholic zealot. He was called “le Vert Galant” because of his prowess with numerous simultaneous mistresses even at what was considered the very advanced age of 56.

Henri II (r 1547-1559) was responsible for bringing the previously mentioned notorious Catherine de Médicis to France as his bride. He created the world’s first patent system for new inventions but spent much of the rest of his time cutting out the tongues of Protestant ministers or burning them at the stake. All three of his sons became Kings of France, including one that Henri married off to Mary, Queen of Scots. He was struck in the eye with a lance during a jousting tournament and died of sepsis and brain damage.

• Origin: France, 1429-1610
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on coins
• Dimensions: 8” long, 1-3/16” maximum width
• Weight: 37.8 grams.

A stunning pair of vintage 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips set with diamonds by Cartier. The clips are worked in heavily textured gold that resembles a flame motif that ascends the earlobe when being worn. The recessed parts of the texture are unpolished, creating a strong contrast with the remaining highly-polished surfaces. Each clip features a irregularly shaped cluster of nine platinum-set round brilliant diamonds, graded as E-VVS2. These earrings are a lovely example of Cartier's prevailing style in the early 1960s. The gold shortages that followed World War II were in the past, so jewelry could take on a heavier look; and there was a pronounced fondness for chunkier, daytime jewelry that reflected the modern woman. It was important, however, that the jewelry could be worn in the evening as well. The backs are signed "Cartier France" and bear all the appropriate marks for 18K gold. The clips are original and never had posts, but posts could be added without disturbing any of the signatures or markings.

Origin: France, ca. 1962. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.

A stunning late Art Deco pair of diamond and palladium dress clips by Tiffany & Co. The clips are fully convertible with a duette mechanism into a single round brooch of substantial presence. Each clip features a pair of stylized flowers with curving foliage and are faintly in the cornucopia shape popular in Deco and Retro jewels. The clips are extremely versatile--they can be worn singly, as a pair or joined as the larger brooch. The diamonds are G color and VVS2-VS1 clarity. The back of each clip is marked "950 Palladium Tiffany & Co." and each as a scratched inventory number. The duette mechanism is worked in gold. The clips are presented in their original Tiffany box.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 3/4" each; 1-3/8" x 1-1/2" joined. Weight: 16.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.88 cts.

Fabulous 1960's David Webb seven-strand emerald bead torsade necklace finished with an 18K yellow gold clasp featuring a cushion-shaped rock crystal plaque centering a oval cabochon emerald flanked at the top and bottom with round brilliant-cut diamonds. This design is so evocative of the classic chunky Webb style, and the workmanship is of the finest quality. The diamonds are F color, VVS2 clarity. The 305 carats of fully-faceted emerald beads are fully faceted and are beautifully matched to the 27.28-carat cabochon emerald in the clasp. The emeralds, graded as "medium, moderately-strong, slightly yellowish green" (slyG 4/4), have a very pleasing and lively appearance. The clasp is signed "Webb" and is marked "18K".

When worn with the clasp, the necklace can be worn with the clasp at the front, back or to the side (our favorite). The torsade may also be worn without the clasp. For an even simpler, more modern look, the clasp may be threaded on a black silk cord as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: overall length, 17-5/8"; clasp, 1-3/8" x 1-3/16". Weight: clasp, 26.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.16 carats; emerald, 332.28 carats.

A large Edwardian puffed heart pendant/brooch worked in finely pierced platinum and set with nearly six carats of old European cut diamonds. Most Edwardian hearts are somewhat smaller than this generously-sized example. The design depicts a central blossom surrounded by scrolls around the edge of the heart. The center diamond is .60 carat, L color and SI2 clarity. The remaining 36 diamonds, totaling approximately 5.27 carats, are I/J color and SI1-I1 clarity. The back of the heart has a removable 14K yellow gold brooch fitting, as well as a platinum folding bail, so the piece can be worth as either a pendant or brooch. This fitting is very distinctive, and we have see puffed heart brooches of this sort signed Tiffany & Co. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 35 x 35 mm (1-3/8 x 1-3/8 in). Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 5.87 cts.

An extremely rare and very fine Imperial Russian gold and diamond anchor brooch by Viktor (Victor) Aarne. The anchor is surmounted with the Imperial Russian crown and the cypher of Czar Nicholas II is superimposed over the stem of the anchor. The brooch is set throughout with old mine and rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in silver over gold, as was typical of Russian jewels of the period. The quality of piercing and millgraining indicate hand fabrication. Certain portions of the design, notably the crossbar of the anchor, the horizontal element of the cyrillic letter "N" and the numerals representing "II" are worked only in yellow gold as a contrast to the surrounding surfaces. THe principal diamonds average J color and SI1 clarity. A jewel of this quality, bearing the Imperial cypher, would certainly have been given as a gift by the Imperial family. The pinstem is marked for 56 zlotniks (14K) and bears the workmaster's mark used by Johann Viktor ( Johan Victor) Aarne during his St. Petersburg period, 1891-1904.

Origin: Russia, 1891-1904. Dimensions: 52 x 27 mm (2-1/16" x 1-1/16"). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.84 cts.

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat

An exquisite Art Deco platinum filigree ring set with a 1.14 carat old European cut diamond surrounded by caliber-cut onyx and coral in a sort of Moorish design. The diamond is graded as H color and SI1 clarity. All the stones are set in millgrained bezel settings. The surrounded coral has very saturated, even coloring that contrasts beautifully with the onyx and the sparkle of the diamond. Strong color contrast is especially associated with Art Deco jewels. The shank is set with three small diamonds to each side of the crown. The ring is completed with an ornately pierced gallery.

Origin: Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.

Exceedingly rare custom-made sterling silver golf trophy by Shreve & Company, California's premier 19th century silversmiths. The trophy, in the form of wine ewer or pitcher and displaying the sinuous curves of the Art Nouveau style, is fainly reminiscent of some of Gorham's Martélé pieces. The body is decorated with a superb applied design cast in the form of a laurel wreath woven with golf clubs. The quality is breathtaking. Notice that one club is a putter, and the other is an wood. The body is raised on an assymetrically lobed foot decorated with applied thistle blossoms and foliage--reminding the viewer of golf's Scottish heritage. The ewer is finished with an exagerated curving handle. The trophy was never engraved. The bottom is marked "Shreve & Co./San Francisco/Sterling". This is a simply phenomenal piece of earlier California silver and a phenomenal piece of silver trophy art.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, a 1/2" flat ding on one side (could be professionally removed). Size: 12-3/4" tall. Weight: 941.0 grams.

An exquisite platinum and diamond brooch in the form of a turtle by Tiffany & Co. In the 1990’s, Tiffany created a small line of nature-themed jewels loosely based on antique pieces in its design archives. The turtle pin was one of the most luxurious pieces in the series. The domed back is pave-set with 90 2.5-point round brilliant cut diamonds and the legs and head are set with additional 28 1.5-point diamonds. The eyes are collet-set blue sapphires. The back has a pendant hook, so it can be worn suspended from a chain. The reverse is marked “1996 Tiffany & Co. PT950”. The original selling price was $15,750.

Origin: America, ca. 1996. Condition: mint. Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.67 carats.

An exquisite Art Deco platinum pendant in the form of a rose set with old mine cut, old European cut, single cut and pear cut diamonds. The design is delicately worked in a sort of stencil effect, the negative spaces between diamond-set areas appearing as the veins of leaves or the deeper recesses of the rose blossom. The center of the rose is set with a .96-ct pear shaped diamond, H/VVS2. The smaller diamonds are well-matched in the H range SI clarity. A diamond-set leaf-shaped bail completes the design. The mounting is stamped with European platinum marks.

Origin: Europe, possibly Poland, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/4" x 1-3/16". Weight: 9.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.6 cts (.96 ct pear).

An imposing Victorian butterfly brooch of exceptional quality and grand dimensions, the fore- and hindwings studded with rose cut diamonds set in silver-topped 18K gold and bordered with oval cabochon rubies set in gold. The thorax is formed of a round opal and the abdomen is a large squarish cabochon pink tourmaline. The design is completed with diamond antennae and emerald eyes. The opal has excellent fire with a good deal of orange and green in the flashes of light. The rubies outlining the wings have medium-light color and are well-matched to the large tourmaline forming the butterfly’s abdomen. The back of the brooch shows masterful à jour work with well-finished piercing to allow light through the stones. The back also retains the original gold pinstem and c-clasp that can be removed with a gold screw assembly. The brooch most likely originally had a comb attachment so the butterfly could be worn in the hair. The brooch is stamped with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2” x 2-7/8”. Weight: 27.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight (by estimation and formula): diamond, 2.39 cts; ruby, 14.26 cts; tourmaline, 6.87 cts; opal, .97 cts.

A magnificent vintage platinum brooch formed as a floral bouquet featuring three primary blossoms tied at the bottom with a ribbon, and set with a mix of old single cut, old Swiss cut, old European cut, old mine cut, early modern brilliant round cut and French cut diamonds and round brilliant cut sapphires. The center flower features a .83-carat, old mine cut diamond of fancy cognac color and SI2 clarity; surrounded by sapphires. A flower bud is represented just above by a prong-set .34-carat old European cut diamond of fancy light cognac color and VS2 clarity. Leaves are bead-set with mixed cut white diamonds, all in the E-G color range with VS1 to SI2 clarity. Berries are represented by collet-set blue sapphires. The sapphires display P2B zone 30 color (moderate purplish blue) on the Gem Dialogue scale and have VS clarity. The hinged double pinstem is worked in 14K white gold, but the body of the brooch is tested and guaranteed platinum.

The range of different diamond cuts in this brooch clearly indicates it was specially made to order for a customer using the diamonds already in her possession. Such commissioned pieces are often not fully hallmarked, hence the lack of a mark for platinum or a maker's mark. The quality of workmanship is superb.

The brooch is accompanied by a June 2008 written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) conforming to the above description and assigning a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 1-1/4". Weight: 16.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.84 carats (1.17 carats of fancy colored diamonds); sapphire, 2.1 carats.

A stunning Mikimoto 18K yellow gold ring set with a 10.50 mm South Sea Akoya pearl surrounded by curved rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearl has white body color with slight rose overtones. The nacre has bright luster. The surface is free of blemishes. The diamonds are D/E color and VVS clarity, with good symmetry and polish. The quality of workmanship, materials and overall design are so obviously special, that the ring is immediately identifiable as Mikimoto. The interior of the shank is fully hallmarked for 18K gold and bears Mikimoto’s oyster shell mark. The ring is presented in its original box and is accompanied by its original Mikimoto grading certificate. It is also accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.

A stunning bombe-form ring, worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The center of the ring is set with 63 square cut blue sapphires invisibly-set into platinum, flanked on either side by a total of 62 round brilliant cut diamonds pave-set in gold. Mystery-setting, accomplished by cutting a thin groove into the girdle of each stone and then sliding it along a complex network of fine platinum wires, was invented jointly by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier in the 1930s. Today, it remains one of the most technically difficult stone-setting techniques and is tackled by very few houses. The platinum and gold components were fashioned separately and then assembled with a screw mechanism after the sapphires and diamonds were set. The design of the mounting itself locks the stones in place. The sapphires are well-matched and are color-graded as dark, strong blue (B7/5) and overall clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are of similarly high quality, with H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The interior of the shank has a worn maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7. Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown. Weight: 17.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.

A superb modernist bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with multi-colored gemstones by Bruno Guidi. Guidi was the lead designer and chief goldsmith the the acclaimed Brazilian jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx for more than 30 years. Each piece was created entirely by hand starting from a piece of gold, without the aid of any molds or pre-made elements. In this bracelet, each of the ten links features a colorful cabochon gemstone native to Brazil—amethyst; citrine; moonstone; and blue, pink and green tourmaline. The links are individually hinged so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable. The clasp is stamped "Brazil 18J Bruno Guidi."

After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.

A magnificent pair of signed Mikimoto earrings featuring 13.75 mm mabe pearls in 18K yellow gold twisted knot settings accented with diamonds. The pearls are of the finest quality, estimated at AA. They have cream body color and extraordinary cream body color with rose overtones and superb luster. The brilliant round-cut diamonds are of similarly fine quality, estimated at VVS clarity and E color. They are bead set in 18K white gold to accent the color. The backs are finished with posts and omega clips. The posts could be easily removed for wear as clips-on earrings without altering the Mikimoto signature. The backs are signed with Mikimoto's oystershell mark flanked by "NY", indicating that they were made for Mikimoto's flagship New York store on 7th Avenue, and "18".

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 23.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.5 carats.

A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.

A magnificent pair of Retro leaf-shaped earrings and a matching brooch by Cartier. The leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and are exquisitely detailed with delicate veining against a softly bloomed matte finish. The stems are worked in palladium, a metal from the platinum group that was used during World War II when platinum was banned from use in jewelry. The stems are bead-set with round single- and brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, as expected in vintage Cartier. The brooch has a hinged double pinstem and small safety hooks. The earrings retain their original clip backs with the hinged comfort tabs. The brooch is signed "Cartier" and is marked "18K". The earrings are signed "Cartier", are marked "18K" and "Pal" and have the design serial numbers.

Origin: French design (probably retailed in NY), ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Size: brooch, 1-29/32" x 1-3/4"; earrings, 1-1/16" x 25/32". Weight: brooch, 21.1 grams; earrings, 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

A spectacular demi-parure comprising a pair of earrings and a pendant/brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with Persian turquoise. The earrings have round surmounts decorated with applied bead and ropetwist decoration in the Etruscan Revival taste suspending ornately geometrical elements set with square turquoise cabochons. The pendant is made to match and has a bail that remains hidden when worn as a brooch. The turquoise is very well-matched. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, one stone at the bottom of the pendant has darkened to green (typical of Victorian turquoise). Dimensions: earrings, 2-7/8" long from top of earwire; pendant/brooch, 3" x 1-1/4". Weight: 39.6 gr.

A phenomenal and extremely rare George III sterling silver footed wine bottle or decanter coaster retaining its original ruby glass liner. Bottle or decanter coasters of the period are typically formed as simple round collars over turned wooden bases, perhaps enhanced with a bit of engraving or a border. This example is much finer than most others, with its ornately hand-sawn pierced gallery and undulating rim, the whole raised on tall volute feet with scrolled terminals and acanthus leaf capitals. Laurel wreath swags complete the design. The stand is finished with a blown ruby glass liner, precisely cut to fit the silver (it aligns with the silver only if placed exactly correctly). The pierced gallery has a small reserve that appears never to have been engraved. The silver is fully hallmarked for London, 1774-75. As was the practice, the hallmarks were applied before the decoration was complete, and when the piercing was performed, the maker's mark and duty mark were obliterated. Only the edges of those two punches are visible amongst the piercing.

Origin: England, 1774-75. Condition: excellent, all original, no repairs, a few tiny fleabites on the rim of the glass liner. Size: 5-3/8" diameter; 4-1/2" high. Silver Weight: 322.0 grams.

A very fine Victorian Albert chain fashioned from a set of nineteen sizable natural gold nuggets (approximately 20-24K). The nuggets are connected by short sections of handmade chain worked in 14K. The chain has a t-bar enhanced with small nuggets and a short length of chain to suspend a fob. Nugget jewelry became popular during the California Gold Rush in 1849 and again during the Alaska Gold Rush in 1896. Nuggets were difficult to find and a collection this large was a significant indicator of wealth. Tested and guaranteed for gold content.

• Origin: America, 1850-1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15-1/2” long (could be extended by adding additional plain links at the clasp)
• Weight: 55.3 grams

This classic late Victorian bangle bracelet is set with a row of gorgeous opal cabochons in graduated sizes enhanced with old European cut and single cut diamonds. The opals have superb play of color evenly spread across the stones’ surfaces. Primary colors are blues and greens with shots of orange and red. The interior of the bracelet has a jeweler’s inventory number, but no maker’s mark. It is presented in a fitted box that appears to be original. The interior of the box bears the name Wm Mossman, Jeweller & Goldsmith, 135 Princes St (Edinburgh, Scotland). The clasp is stamped with French import marks. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: Scotland, ca. 1900
• Condition: mint
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide at front; 6-1/8” circumference
• Weight: 17.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 7.36 carats; diamond, .37 carat