Catalog (2409)

A wonderful vintage 14K gold acrostic charm using the first letters of each of the gemstones ( Diamond/Emerald/Amethyst/Ruby/Emerald/Sapphire/Topaz) to spell out the secret message “Dearest”. Acrostic jewelry first appeared in the 18th century and remained popular, though somewhat uncommon, throughout the Victorian era. The gold is enhanced with bright-cut engraving a pattern like that seen on sundials. This piece was most likely intended for a charm bracelet, but it could easily be worn as a pendant. The back of the charm is engraved “3-17-59” and is marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, 959
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” corner to corner
• Weight: 7.3 grams

An elegant second standard (800/1000 pure silver) French tastevin. The bowl is engraved with repousse grape clusters and leaves in the 18th century style, but also with the more traditional raised “perles” and “coupules” seen in 19th century examples. The combination of the two is quite unusual. The handle is in the form of two snakes grasping an apple between their jaws—an element thought to stem from the Garden of Eden and intended to remind drinkers of temptation. The tastevin bears regional hallmarks for second standard silver and an unknown maker’s mark (J ancre de marine P). The pinpoint in the bottom of the bowl is a lathe-mark and suggests a date of the mid-19th century at the latest. The rim is engraved with the name of the original owner, “Ane [Antoine] Mouly-Chambon de Chas.”

• Origin: France, Burgundy region, ca 1840
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-1/8” x 4-1/4” x 1-5/32”
• Weight: 118.4 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The word “plus” is represented by a plus sign set with a diamond and the word “moins” with a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and laurel wreath border. The back is monogrammed “MG.” The front is signed A.A. and the bail is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A very good pair of doubled-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces made from carved mother-of-pearl punctuated with gold “stitches” and finely-worked laurel wreath borders. The backs of the faces are beautifully decorated in an engraved foliate pattern. The faces are connected by chains. Fully marked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.3 grams.

A handsome pair of Retro 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bordered with an interesting detail that resembles coil springs. The plain gold bar in the middle of each face could be monogrammed, but fortunately, they never were. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 7/16” 3/8”. Weight: 6.9 grams.

A handsome man’s 14 yellow gold ring set with a large bloodstone tablet. The dramatically tapered shank is engraved on either side of the stone with a stylized papyrus motif. The bloodstone has a slightly lighter than usual greenish tint that contrasts nicely with its red markings. The interior of the shank is stamped “14Kâ€.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 13/16†x 3/4"; shank tapers from 13/16†to 1/8â€. Finger Size: 10. Weight: 9.0 gr.

A fine pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks featuring plaques of lapis lazulie framed in pierced Greek key borders. The lapis has very attractive violetish-blue coloring with a nice smattering of glittery pyrite. The connectors are marked "14K" and "585".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8". Weight: 16.9 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau locket worked in 14K yellow gold depicting a poppy blossom and buds. In the Victorian language of flowers, the red poppy represented "consolation," certainly an apt choice for a locket that might hold a portrait. The interior of the locket retains both of the original frames and glass covers. The jump ring is marked "10K", but the locket is tested and guaranteed as 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; the back cover appears to have had a monogram removed. Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 6.9 gr.

A nicely-detailed late Victorian pin depicting a lion’s head. The open mouth grasps a 10-point old European-cut diamond, while each eye is set with a small cabochon ruby. The head is surrounded by flowing fur that hints at Art Nouveau styling. The design is similar to a tiger’s head brooch that was made by Alling & Co., and probably was made by one of Alling’s Newark competitors. The c-clasp is an old replacement. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, replaced clasp. Size: 1-7/32” x 7/8”. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

This delightful Victorian Art Nouveau pendant and pin features a four-leaf clover nestled inside a crescent moon, both set with seed pearls. The clover is centered with a .2-carat old European cut diamond. The combination of a flower and a crescent in Victorian jewelry was intended to convey the sentiment "honeymoon" and they were often a gift from a groom to his new bride. The four-leaf clover, of course, conveyed good luck. The reverse retains the original folding bail and a pin that's hidden from view, so the piece can be worn in multiple ways. The clasp is marked "10K."

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition; all original
• Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat
• 4.1 grams.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold rectangular cufflinks, each face engraved in a starburst pattern emanating from a bezel-set round diamond. The diamonds are I/J color, VS2 clarity. The backs are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A delightful late Victorian 14K yellow gold wishbone pin with a delicately enameled four-leaf clover in the middle. The shamrock's petals are arranged around a small pearl and are finely enhanced with shaded green enamel. The clasp is stamped with Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 13/16". Weight: 4.2 grams.

A classic 19th century French silver tastevin of traditional form and the bottom inset with a silver coin from the reign of Louis XV. The sides of the tastevin are decorated with the traditional raised "perles", recessed "cupules" and elgongated "godrons" for viewing the depth of color in a wine. The coin, dating to 1734, depicts the profile of the king surrounded by the legend "Louis XV, by grace of God, king of France and Navarre." The obverse of the coin, with sharp detail, can be seen from the bottom of the tastevin. The taster is completed with a handle in the form of a pair of snakes grasping an apple. In this example, the snakes' heads are shaped somewhat like ducks' heads, a characteristic of a certain group of tastevins from the Burgundy region. Stamped with an unknown maker's mark with the initials "EE".

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the tastevin, typical wear to the front of the coin. Dimensions: 3-1/4" x 4-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 82.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau etched and enameled cameo glass perfume bottle by Cristalleries Saint-Louis. The design features a design of enameled thistles against a frosted-ice background. The enameling is done in multiple shades of yellowish-green, mauve and violet. The rim is highlighted with a simple band of gilding echoed by the gilt star at the top of the lapidary stopper. The bottom has a large polished pontil. This style is typical of the naturalistic motifs used by Saint-Louis around 1900.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 8-1/2" tall.

A nice, heavy pair of figural 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the faces designed as a golf bag with a selection of clubs. The cufflinks are finished with nice details such as the grooves on the irons and the textured surface of the bags. The faces are connected to an older style of toggle backs. The backs are stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 15/16” long. Weight: 9.2 gr.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the baton faces very finely and ornately engraved in a foliate pattern. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 11/16” long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold ring set with an oval brilliant-cut citrine. The setting is particularly elegant. The stone is flanked on either side by a golden fuschia blossom. The citrine is of the very best quality, with extremely saturated orangey-gold color and exceptional brilliance. The interior of the shank is stamped 585 for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 2.18 cts.

An elegant first standard (950/1000 pure silver) French silver tastevin in typical 18th century Burgundian style. Rather than with the typical "perles" and fluted "godrons", the bowl of this tastevin is decorated with repousse grape leaves and berries in the 18th century style. This treatment is sometimes seen in tastevins made by Parrod, but the particular decoration is different than any other we've seen. Similarly, the handle, in the form of two duck heads grasping an apple is a very exaggerated variation of the usual form seen on tastevins from Lyon. The base is fully hallmarked and has an unidentified silversmith's mark "M tête grec D".

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3-3/16" diameter (excluding handle). Weight: 72.3 grams.