Catalog (2407)

A magnificent and generously-sized Essex crystal set in a 14K yellow gold brooch and pendant mounting. The reverse carved crystal depicts a marshland scene with a group of ducks taking flight from a fox that has invaded their nesting ground. The scene is painted in the most delicate shades that aptly fit the fineness of the carving. The brooch is backed with mother-of-pearl that provides a distinctive luminosity to the scene. The back has a brooch clasp as well as a folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-11/16” diameter.

An outstanding 18K gold pendant set with an amazing enameled alpine scene by Carlo Poluzzi (1899-1978), the greatest Swiss enamellist of the the 20th century. Poluzzi sometimes used the very difficult technique of applying translucent enamel over an engraved gold plate to produce brilliant sunrise or set effects as seen in the left side of the sky in this example. This required multiple coats of different colored enamels which increased the likelihood of unwanted cracks during the multiple firings. Poluzzi was perhaps the only enamellist capable of this technique in the 20th century, and indeed, the scene is signed at the lower left. Of course, this example is also signed at the lower left. In the 1920s, Poluzzi (still in his low 20s) became the master of Emaux de Genève, the provider of the highest quality enameled dials and cases for luxury horlogers such as Vacheron & Constantin, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Gubelin. This plaque is set as a pendant by the Gubelin. The Holbein-style setting features square cut rubies and emeralds amid swirling gold foliage. The gemstones are of very fine quality with intense, saturated coloring and excellent clarity. The reverse is stamped with Gubelin’s hallmark and the Swiss gold mark for 18K.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-7/16”
• Weight: 26.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .8 carat; emerald, .47 carat

A lovely French garland-style pendant/brooch in platinum and set with diamonds. The garland style, popularized by Cartier, heavily borrowed Louis XVI motifs such as bows, ribbons and laurel wreaths—all seen in this example. When worked in platinum, the designs take on a delicate appearance and allow the diamonds to shine. The center old European cut diamond, graded as J/SI1, weighs .48 carat. The diamond hanging from an articulated millegrained knife-edge mounting has the same grading and weighs .35 carat. The smaller diamonds are a mix of antique cushion, rose and Swiss cuts. This piece has two small loops at the top of the back so it can be worn from a fine platinum chain. When worn as a pendant, the 18K gold brooch fitting can be unscrewed and removed entirely. Convertible fittings such as this were difficult to make and always signaled a piece of high quality. The hallmarks allow the pendant/brooch to be definitively dated prior to 1912.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-9/16”. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.15 carats.

An elegant pair of past-colored multi-gem earrings set in 18K white gold by Asprey. From the "Daisy" collection, these dangling earrings feature a flower blossom of blue topaz, pink tourmaline, peridot and amethyst petals surrounding a center diamond. A cascading ribbon of matching gemstones descends from the flower. The stones are set so minimal metal shows from the front to add to the delicate appearance. The earrings are signed Asprey and are marked for 18K gold. They are presented in their original suede-lined leather box from Asprey. The original retail price in 2007 was $6500.

Dimensions: 1-5/8" long. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: blue topaz, 2.64 cts; pink tourmaline, 1.26 cts; amethyst, 1.08 cts; peridot, .88 ct; diamond, .10 ct. Weight: 8.4 grams.

A lovely vintage 18K yellow gold and diamond ring by Boucheron. The top of the band has a quilted ("matelassé) pattern accented with crossed bands set with brilliant round-cut diamonds (E/VVS2). The setting is heavy and quite comfortable to wear. The interior of the shank is signed “Boucheron” and is marked “Or 750 / 885513912”. The outside of the shank is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” mark and with Boucheron’s maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1990

Condition: excellent

Finger Size: 6-1/4

Dimensions: 13/32” wide

Weight: 7.5 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .8 carat

An exquisite Art Nouveau pendant/brooch in 18K gold with diamonds, pearls, and enamel. A lily pad, enameled in translucent shades of green, yellow, and rose centers the brooch, and is surrounded by whiplash curves of 95 round diamonds. A large diamond-set lily blossom appears at the top of the frame. All the diamond areas are set in silver-topped gold, as was the custom in French jewels of the period. The design is accented with pearls, including a pearl drop at the bottom. The piece has a brooch attachment, but also has a pair of small bails so it can be worn as a pendant. The brooch fitting, where the original French hallmarks would have been, has been replaced. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: France, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, brooch fitting replaced, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 2-3/16” (36 x 55 mm)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.9 carats

A wonderfully heavy vintage silver bracelet by Hermès. The bracelet has a triangular profile that stands well out from the surface of the wrist and a masterfully constructed so that it is flexible, but appears rigid when being worn. The inside edges of each link are parcel gilt, so the bracelet sometimes shows the slightest gold hue. This is probably the heaviest Hermès bracelet we have seen. The bracelet is presented in its original vintage fitted Hermès gray box. The bracelet is fully hallmarked with French first standard (950/1000 pure) silver marks and Hermès maker’s mark indicating it was made in the company’s own ateliers instead of being farmed out to other makers as was sometimes the case. The clasp is also signed “Hermès.”

• Origin: France, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide; 3/8” high; 8-1/4” long
• Weight: 148.0 grams.

A very fine 14K rose gold brooch mounted with a Scottish Terrier carved from banded agate. The dog's head is beautifully rendered, using the stone's natural banded coloring to represent the dark colored muzzle and ears that contrast with the brighter carnelian of the fur. The eyes are represented by small round cut demantoid garnets set in a manner that nearly completely hides the gold collets holding the stones. The workmanship of the carving is first-rate. The setting is rather simple an does not detract from the beauty of the hardstone carving.

Faberge was a leading creator of hardstone carvings, and used carvings created in his own workshops as the shops of others. In Paris, Cartier was determined to compete with Faberge and also produced hardstone carvings. The Cartier versions, however, tended to be a little less realistic and rarely relied on the natural color variations of the stone material. The coloring technique strongly suggests that this carving is the product of a Russian workshop contemporary with Faberge, and possibly that of the master himself.

There appears to be a rubbed-out hallmark on the back side. This is occasionally seen in Russian pieces that had their marks obliterated shortly after the Revolution as their owners tried to smuggle jewels out of the country. Tested and guaranteed to be 56 zlotniks (slightly purer than 14K).

Origin: Russia, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-1/16". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Demantoid Weight: .1 ct.

An impressive Edwardian pendant featuring a large cabochon amethyst and diamonds set in platinum. The amethyst is pierced and set with a .25ct H/SI1 diamond and surrounded by a halo of small old European cut and rose cut diamonds. The bail is similarly set with rose cut diamonds. The pendant has a very dramatic appeal, yet the openness of the setting keeps it from being overpowering. Tested and guaranteed platinum (chain is silver).

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 32.75 cts; diamond, 1.25 cts.

An elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond 5-piece dress set from the “Vannerie” collection by Tiffany & Co. The double-faced cufflinks and studs are worked in an open basketweave pattern into a slightly domed shape. The larger cufflinks faces and the studs are centered with bezel-set brilliant round diamonds (F/VVS2). Each piece in the set if fully marked by Tiffany. The cufflinks are marked “1995” and the studs “1996.” This design is no longer in production. The set is presented in its original dark blue fitted Tiffany box and with the original light blue paperboard outer box.

• Origin: America, 1995/96
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: large cufflink faces, 11/16” x 11/16”; studs, 3/8” x 3/8”
• Weight: 26.75 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .60 carat

An extraordinary 18K gold and gemstone ring by H Stern in the brutalist style of the 1950s and 60s. The design ethic is evident in the jagged outlines, arching construction and jarring color juxtapositions. As with all H Stern jewelry of the period, the amethysts, peridots and hessonite garnets are of excellent quality. The gold surfaces are stippled for additional interest. This ring surpasses being mere jewelry, becoming architecture for the hand. The interior of the shank is stamped with Stern's hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: crown, 1-7/16" wide
• Finger Size: 9
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: hessonite garnet, 2.16 carats; peridot, 1.83 carats; amethyst, 1.8 carats
• Weight: 17.8 grams

A stunning pair of late Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral earrings, the petals enhanced with iridescent enamel and the centers set with clusters of blue sapphires. The quality of the enamel, shading from a medium blue to a pale greenish-yellow is superb. The gold surfaces underneath the enamel are delicately engraved to represent the veining and surface textures of real flower petals. The use of iridescent enamels and the quality of workmanship suggests one of the better Newark workshops as the likely maker. The round sapphires have vivid blue coloring and are set nicely above the surrounding petals to create a very three-dimensional appearance. The earrings probably originally had wire, but now have omega-clips. The could easily be returned to wire, or have posts added. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; omega clips replacing original wires. Size: 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 13.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .84 carat.

A stunning Georgian floral pendant worked in silver-topped 18K gold. The radiating petals are studded with diamonds in the newly fashionable “a jour” or open settings that came into vogue around 1800. The selection of diamonds is a virtual history of early diamond cutting and includes rose cuts, Mazarin cuts, table cuts, and Peruzzi cuts. The flower is centered with an unheated cornflower blue sapphire, likely of Ceylon origin. The back of the setting is ornately engraved in a sort of starburst pattern. There’s a small hole in the back of the setting that would have held a long pin attachment so the piece could be worn as a hair ornament. The flower has been converted for wear as pendant with the discreet additional of a hidden bail. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: France or England, ca. 1795
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 5.6 carats; sapphire, 1.65 carats
• Weight: 18.3 grams
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Possibly the finest Georgian fob seal we’ve seen, this example is worked in multicolored 18K gold. The large swivel features a carnelian plaque on one side that reverses to an amazing crystal-enclosed compartment. Inside the compartment is a three-dimensional fruit basket worked in yellow, white, rose, green and blue gold. The rock crystal cover is slightly domed to magnify the fruit basket decoration. The edges of the swivel are engraved “S Kip” on one edge and “S Kip Poe” on the other, suggesting it was perhaps a gift from a grandfather to a grandson of maternal descent. Women began wearing pocket watches in the 1780s, so it's also possible this fob was a gift from mother to married daughter. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1790
• Condition: very good, evidence of 19th century repairs that do not detract from the beauty
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 2-1/16” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 29.6 grams

An elegant large-scale 18K gold hinged bangle bracelet with repousse floral decoration by Charles Armsheimer & Son. The design is so expertly worked that the hinge is nearly invisible when the bracelet is being worn. Armsheimer’s workshop was located on Maiden Lane, the heart of New York’s jewelry industry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “18K” and also has the maker’s mark for Charles Armsheimer & Son.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no dings or dents
• Dimensions: width, 3/8”; inner circumference 6-7/8”
• Weight: 24.1 grams

A fine 10x19mm navettte-shaped opal set in an Art Deco 14K yellow gold setting enhanced with bright champleve enamels in shades of dark and light green, red, and black. The opal has a very nice "pinfire" pattern with an unusually generous amount of red/orange play of color. The pattern is evenly dispersed, with color throughout the stone. Unlike some of the other opal patterns, pinfire has the distinction of showing pattern when viewed from any direction. Even the bottom of the stone visible through the mounting has nice color and pattern. The colors of the stone are nicely accented with the enamels on the mounting. The shank is engraved in a floral pattern and is accented at the shoulders with floral appliques worked in white gold. The interior of the shank is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
Dimensions: crown, 7/8" x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 6.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; no crazing, scratching or pitting to opal.

19th century aneroid desk barometer in a stunning ivory case raised on a turned pedestal and surmounted with a carved ivory bust depicting a young farm maiden. The carving is superbly done, with great attention to the girl's hair and 18th century-style lace-trimmed bonnet. Her face is charming. The ivory has a beautiful yellowed patina that has not been cleaned. The enameled dial is in French, but there is no maker's mark visible. This is the finest desk barometer we've ever seen.

Origin: France, ca. 1830. Condition: excellent, expected splitting to ivory on the back, original patina. Size: 7-1/4" tall; 3-1/2" dial diameter.

A very fine 19th century 18K gold watch chain enhanced comprising a quadruple foxtail chain enhanced with two slides, a fob, and a watch key. The slides and the fob are finished with repousse decoration and cushion cut rubies. The fob also has an unengraved bloodstone plaque on the bottom. When the two slides are drawn close together they cause the chain to plait itself. The watch hook has a secure locking mechanism. This chain is particularly ornate and would have been intended for wear as a “gilletière” high on the vest so it could be readily visible to others. The rubies have vivid color are show no indications of heat treatment. The watch chain would look particularly nice styled with other heavy neck chains or perhaps even worn as a bracelet. The chain is stamped with early 19th century hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1840
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13-3/4”
• Weight: 40.4 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 2.0 carats

A fine and very lovely Art Nouveau pendant or brooch worked in platinum and 18K yellow gold, every visible surface is set with old mine cut and old European cut diamonds of various sizes. The design depicts are central flower surrounded by foliage twisted into whiplash curves and sprinkled with flower buds. The construction is very solid and quite heavy, but the openwork maintains a feeling of lightness. The back retains the original pinstem and safety clasp as well as a folding bale so the jewel can be worn as either a brooch or pendant. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/32” x 1-3/32” (excluding bale). Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.4 carats.

An intricately designed 14K yellow gold chain comprised of a double row of reeded oval links enhanced at regular intervals with engraved acanthus leaf plaques. The chain is from the late Georgian or early Victorian period, and is completely handmade. The clasp is a large bolt, reeded to match the links. The individual links are open enough that the chain could be used to hang charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1845
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 20-1/2" long; 7/16" wide
• Weight: 28.1 grams

A very fine Victorian festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold and set with variously cut amethysts and tiny seed pearls. The central element features two oval and one antique cushion cut amethysts suspending a large antique cushion cut amethyst flanked by a pair of pear-shaped drops and further suspending a more triangular pear-shaped drop. Each of the stones is set in an ornate ropetwist, beaded and scrolled setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The chain itself is handmade in an equally ornate style of s-scrolls and beading. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 16.5” long; central element, 2.5” long. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 31.05 cts.

An 18K white gold ring in classic Van Cleef & Arpels style, set with round brilliant diamonds and round sapphires. The sapphires are intensely colored and have eye-clean clarity. The diamonds are E/F color and VVS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is signed and bears complete serial numbers, maker’s mark and French 18K guarantee stamps.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.00 ct; diamond, .24 ct.

An exceptionally fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet by Pierre Baltensperger. Each of the plaques represents a different flower, depicted in semi-abstract ways. Among the flowers are daisies, cyclamens, fuschias, morning glories and honeysuckle. Baltensperger was founded in 1878 by Walter Baltensperger, who quickly established the firm’s luxury reputation. His grandson Pierre Baltensperger assumed the lead in 1950. Pierre, born in 1927, became one of Switzerland’s most important sculptors and visual artists, in addition to his work with jewelry. This design, though similar in some respects to Georg Jensen’s work from the 1920s, likely dates to the late 1940s. The clasp is signed “Baltensperger” and has 18K marks and inventory numbers.

Origin: Zurich, Switzerland, ca. 1947. Dimensions: 5/8” x 7-5/8”. Weight: 40.0 gr.

A very fine pair of 14K gold cufflinks set with rubies by Carrington for Tiffany & Co. The square faces feature rounded gold ridges typical of “tank” jewelry from around 1935, flanked by rows of square cut rubies. The rubies are unheated and have inclusions typical of stones from the Mogok region of Burma. The rubies are beautifully matched and have strong red coloring with slight purplish overtones. The faces are joined by bar connectors. Each face is stamped with Carrington’s 14K gold mark, and each of the connectors is stamped Tiffany & Co. Much of Tiffany’s better-quality jewelry was manufactured by the great Newark jewelers such as Carrington. Sometimes, pieces are marked only by Tiffany, and other times they are marked by Tiffany and the manufacturer.

• Origin: America, ca 1935
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2” x 1/2"
• Weight: 17.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.32 carats

A very good Retro tank ring worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and natural sapphires (natural sapphires in a Retro ring are rather unusual). The larger diamonds (.40 ct, .25 ct, and .25 ct) are all old European cuts. The smaller stones are single cuts. The ring is broad across the finger and is laid out in a very geometric style typical of tank jewelry. The diamonds I color and VS2 clarity. The sapphires show no indication of heat treatment. It is very uncommon to have natural colored stones in a piece or Retro jewelry. The back of the shank is stamped with French import marks for 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: crown, 7/8” x 5/8”; shank tapers to 7/32” at the back
• Weight: 11.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 carats; sapphire, .44 carat.

An extraordinarily fine and rare Art Nouveau sporting brooch featuring an enameled fox head superimposed over a horseshoe, a riding crop and a whip. The horseshoe is set with old mine cut diamonds simulating the nails. The fox's eyes are set with rubies. The pin is beautifully enameled in lifelike colors. The fox's mouth is open to show fierce jagged gold teeth. An identical brooch was featured in the "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" exhibition held in 2005 at the Museum of American Folk Art in New York. It is also published in the exhibition book by the same name. The pin in unmarked, but is a known Alling Bros. design.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-15/16"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .05 carat; diamond, .10 carat

Early 20th century Dutch harbor scene by Gerard Wiegman (1875-1964). The painting depicts a large cargo ship moored at harbor and surrounded by a variety of smaller ships, fishing boats and tugs. The sky is painted in moody shades of grays that echo the colors of the dark smoke rising from the other large ships in the background. This choice of coloring suggests the obvious industrial nature of this unidentified harbor. The paint was primarily applied with broad brushstrokes, but a thicker impasto suggests the business and confusion on the deck of the ship. The perspective is quite deep and suggests a great deal of forward movement. Signed lower right “G. Wiegman”. The painting is framed in a mid-century carved giltwood frame.

Though not Jewish, Gerard Wiegman was forced to escape Holland at the beginning of the Nazi invasion. He smuggled a small number of paintings out with him. Both this painting and the other harbor scene we are offering were among the paintings he smuggled out and kept for his own collection. Eventually, he settled in upstate New York, where he lived until his death. This painting was acquired from the family of the artist.

Origin: Holland, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent surface, one puncture repair near both upper corners. Size: canvas, 22" x 31"; frame, 27-3/4" x 36-1/4".

A colorful butterfly, it’s old mine cut diamond and sapphire body sporting wings studded with rubies, rose cut diamonds and emeralds, stands atop a diamond-encrusted twig in this gorgeous late Victorian jewel. Victorian butterfly jewels usually portray the insect with its wings spread in a rather rigid fashion. This pose is far more naturalistically attractive. The stones together weigh close to 3 carats, and all have excellent color. The piece appears to have been converted from a brooch into a pendant with the addition of a hidden bail at the back. Tested and guaranteed 18K. The contemporary chain is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: probably France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/4”; chain length, 18”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.20 cts; sapphire, .38 ct; ruby, .67 ct; emerald, .63 ct
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

Astounding set of 12 Art Deco sterling silver swizzle sticks with star-shaped ivory finials by Jean Puiforcat, one of France’s most important silversmiths. The silver is beautifully gilt to accent the natural color of the ivory. The swizzle sticks are presented in their original red felt-lined fitted box marked “Puiforcat Orfèvre Paris”. Puiforcat is extremely high-end and articles that bear the Puiforcat mark are always of the absolute finest quality and rarity.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4-5/16” long; ivory stars, 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 130.5 grams.

PLEASE NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States.

A vintage 18K yellow gold turtle brooch set with rubies by Cartier. The turtle’s shell is formed as interwoven wide ribbons of textured gold, the intersections prong-set with round brilliant-cut rubies. The eyes are also set with small rubies. Parts of the gold have a Florentine finish while others are smooth, creating very pleasing contrast. The rubies are of very fine quality, with strongly saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The reverse side of the pin is worked in a trellis pattern. The back is marked with “Cartier 18K” and has a serial number. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant by adding a bail under the head.

• France, circa 1965
• Excellent condition
• 1-7/16 x 1"
• 15.2 grams
• Ruby, .44 carat

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement.These earrings have particularly intense jewel tones, particularly greens and purples. The earrings are marked with Stern's hallmark and also "750" for 18K gold. The clips are original, but posts could be added without affecting the original clips.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• 15/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.02 carats
• Weight: 9.3 grams.

A superb Retro 14K gold ring in the form of a buckle set with round brilliant cut diamonds and calibre cut natural rubies. The design is enhanced with a prong-set .65 carat diamond solitaire. The diamond is G/H color and VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds are of similar quality. All the diamonds are set in platinum. The rubies have fine color and excellent color. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 17/16” and sits 1/4” high above the finger
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 9.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: diamond, 1.05 carats; ruby, .66 carat

A wonderful and very rare pair of signed Eva Segoura ladybug earrings worked in 18K yellow gold, and set with hematite and rubies. Segoura was a very exclusive Parisian jewelry designer at 20 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré for a short time. Many of her jewels were rather whimsical and featured animals such as ladybugs, caterpillars, mice and blowfish. Segoura made ladybug earrings in several variations using different precious and semi-precious stones. These ladybug earrings have bodies of carved hematite set in gold frames. The sides of each ladybug are adorned with collet-set cabochon rubies, as are the eyes. The little creatures are completed with alert antennae and ball feet. The clips are marked with the maker’s mark, the French 18K guarantee mark, and a partially obscured serial number. The backs of the frames are signed “Eva Segoura” in script.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 15/16”. Weight: 28.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.15 carats.

An elegant heavy gold bracelet comprised of linked chains decorated with three-leaf clovers. In Victorian flower symbology, clover leaves, regardless of their number signified good luck, but they also held the meaning “think of me.” Kauffer was the primary jeweler of the Ecole de Nancy, France’s most important group of Art Nouveau artisans. He exhibited at the Louvre during his lifetime. Unlike the more florid Art Nouveau designs by Parisian jewelers, Kauffer’s designs tended to be more linear and graphic. The bracelet’s clasp is stamped with the 18K gold marks used outside Paris until 1919, with Kauffer’s maker’s mark, and also with Kauffer’s signature.

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long.
• Weight: 32.7 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet, the fancy links comprising ornately twisted knots and set alternately with old mine cut diamonds and round cut sapphires. The diamonds are set in platinum collets while the sapphires are in yellow gold. The diamonds are H color, I1 and I2 clarity; the sapphires are vivid blue. The clasp is stamped with a maker’s serial number indicating a quality house, and the clasp tongue is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, normal wear to tops surfaces of gemstones (not visible without 10x magnification)
• Dimensions: length, 6-1/2”; width, 1/2"
• Weight: 23.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .68 carat; sapphire, .84 carat

Exceptionally fine Edwardian tortoishell letter box decorated with gold pique. The serpentine front is inlaid in a pattern of floral swags flanking a center wreath. The curved top has a matching wreath and swags as well as songbirds. The gold has a beautiful rose tint that contrasts nicely with the rich golden-brown of the tortoise, and the surfaces are intricately engraved to enhance the appearance. The use of gold for pique work was reserved for only the most expensive and impressive items. The back and sides of the box are covered in burgundy Morocco leather and the interior is covered in red silk moire. The workmanship and overall style of this piece suggests the workshop of William Comyns, though he more frequently worked in silver. Signed boxes by Comyns feature exactly the same lining and side upholstery and similar swag and wreath designs.

Origin: England, ca. 1905. Condition: very good, the front has a few hairlines (no hairlines on top), six of the tiny pins along the edge of the top are lacking, no loss to pique. Size: 10-1/8" x 5-3/4" x 7-1/4" tall.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States.

An exceptionally fine Pampillonia 18K gold brooch in the form of a running thoroughbred horse mounted by a jockey. The workmanship is simply outstanding. Every detail of the horse's flying tail and the musculature underlying the coat are beautifully worked. The folds and wrinkles of the jockey's silks are equally detailed. The horse's eye is set with a small round ruby and the hoof of a hind leg touches on a .18-carat round brilliant cut diamond, graded as J color, SI2 clarity. The use of a yellow-green gold is an inspired choice that somehow keeps the rather heavy brooch from appearing overwhelming. The pin is unsigned, but is definitely by Pampillonia. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 2010
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-3/8"
• Weight: 30.8 grams

A pair of 18K yellow gold clip-on earrings in Keiselstein-Cord’s timeless “Rope Twist” design. These earrings were produced in at least two sizes, these being the. The surface is bloomed to create the semi-matte finish characteristic of the designer’s work. The earrings are fully marked and dated for 1982, making this among his earliest designs.

• Germany, 1982
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (22 x 22 mm)
• Weight: 35.5 grams

A very fine 19th century French 18K gold locket, the cover in a very three-dimensional design of overlapping geometric shaped enhanced with calibre-cut Persian turquoise, seed pearls and rose cut diamonds. The turquoise are all original, and a few are have taken on the darker greenish cast often found in Victorian-era turquoise. Additional scrollwork, beading and engraving completes the design. The original bail is set with pearls. The back cover opens to reveal a glass-enclosed compartment. The locket is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850
• Condition: excellent, a few small dings to the back cover
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-15/16” (2-5/16” including bail)
• Weight: 20.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat

An iconic "Lentils" necklace crafted in hematite by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. Cummings began designing with lentil-shaped beads in late 1980 and it became one of her hallmarks. This hematite necklace is punctuated with a single platinum lentil pave-set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1). The brilliance of the diamonds is particularly nice against the dark color of the hematite. The clasp is signed "Cummings", "T&Co." and "IridPlat".

Origin: America, ca. 1985. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 15-3/4" long; beads, 7/16" diameter. Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

A very fine Imperial Austro-Hungarian bangle bracelet simply designed as an oval of twisted gold, but then set at the top with a trefoil of three cornflower blue sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires, .72, .58, and .52 carat, have microscopic stringer, sharp-edge milky bands, and snowflake inclusions typical of sapphires mined in Kashmir in the 1880s. The sapphires have excellent saturation, medium-dark tone, pure blue color without violet overtones, and a characteristic velvety appearance. The sapphires are surrounded and centered with eleven small rose cut diamonds. The bracelet is stamped with the Vienna hallmark used 1872-1922. The removable safety chain makes the bangle easy to take on and off.

• Origin: Vienna, Austria-Hungary, ca 1885
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/8” wide at back; 5/8” wide at front; interior circumference, 6-1/2
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.83 carats; diamond, .10 carat
• Weight: 14.9 grams

An elegant bracelet composed of open links ornately decorated in a pattern of acanthus leaves alternating with blue sapphire oval cabochons. The sapphires do not show indication of heat treatment. Each link is slightly curved, so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is masterfully constructed to be invisible once closed. Like most Portuguese gold jewelry of the era, it’s quite heavy for its size. The bracelet is stamped with 19.2K gold marks used in the city of Oporto, 1887-1937.

• Origin: Portugal, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimeions: 1/2" wide; 7-3/4” long
• Weight: 23.2 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.36 carats

Superb Retro 18K yellow gold and platinum duette brooch set wtih diamonds and rubies. The design is an exciting overlap of scrolled gold ribbons, the ends accented with platinum and pave-set with round-cut diamonds. The center of the brooch is set with a cluster of prong-set round-cut rubies. The back of the brooch features a mechanism that allows the piece two be disassembled into two separate smaller pins. This "duette" mechanism was used only on the finest pieces during the Retro period. Often, the pair of smaller pins would be worn on either lapel, or sometimes just one pin would be used when a more delicate look was needed. The quality of workmanship is excellent. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 37.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.2 carats; ruby, 1.5 carats.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds by David Yurman. This design, part of the “Cable Buckle” collection, combines Yurman’s classic cable motif with an open buckle pave-set with round brilliant diamonds, graded as G/VS2. The earrings have posts with Omega clips. The earrings hug the ear closely, so they are appropriate for either day or evening wear. The backs are signed “D. Yurman 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but the original retail price was $3,950.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .45 ct.

A wonderful pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, each spherical end cast in a sort of alligator hide pattern studded with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have fine coloring and brilliance, as would be expected of Van Cleef. One cufflink is fully marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/12V12-4/18K" and the other is marked "18K."

• Origin: America (NY), ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" diameter; smaller faces, 3/8" diameter.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .51 carat.
• Condition: excellent.

A fine pair of vintage 18K gold flower-form earclips accented with diamonds and sapphires. The undulating petals are deeply cupped to create a realistic three-dimensional feel. Each earring is centered by a round brilliant-cut diamond surrounded by oval sapphires. The diamonds are graded as G/VVS2. The sapphires have fine pure blue coloring with excellent saturation. There are no marks, but there are inventory numbers. That, combined with the excellent workmanship and high quality stones, suggest the earrings are by a significant maker. The backs retain the original clips, but the posts have been removed. New posts can be added easily. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1980
• DIAMETER 1 1/8"
• WEIGHT 27.2 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT diamond, .30 carat; sapphire, 4.90 carats
• CONDITION excellent; posts removed

An elegant pair of 18K gold earrings featuring large cultured mabe pearls surrounded by borders of brilliant round cut diamonds (E/F color; VVS2 clarity) and square cut blue sapphires of similar fine quality. The pearls have fine creamy body color with rose overtones and a high luster. Jewels by Spark were retailed by Neiman Marcus and other luxury purveyors. The original posts were removed for wear only with the omega clips, but could easily be replaced. The backs are marked "18" and are signed "Spark."

• Origin: America, ca 1980
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 13/16"
• Weight: 21.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 carats; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A beautiful pair of Victorian 14K gold drop earrings with calibre-cut Persian turquoise, pearls and old mine and rose cut diamonds set in an expanding star pattern. The settings are pierced, lightening the overall feeling despite the earring’s generous size. The edges a finished with a pierced gallery. The choice of gemstones is very nice, the diamonds are bright for rose cuts, the pearls have nice luster, and the turquoise a beautifully matched and without discoloration. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8” diameter (excluding wires)
• Weight: 10.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 carat

A beautiful double-strand pearl and 18K yellow gold bracelet by Mikimoto. The bracelet comprises 48 pearls, graded as fine AA. The pearls are 6.5 to 7.00 mm. The color is medium cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the nacre is of medium thickness. The pearls are beautifully matched, as would be expected of Mikimoto. The strands are separated by two gold station spacers and are completed with an 18K yellow gold box clasp with repousse floral decoration and a 4.2 mm pearl. The clasp is fully hallmarked for 18K and is signed with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark. The strand is accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $4,650.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent, no pearl damage, secure stringing. Size: 7-1/4” long.

Elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Saffo" pattern from the "Greca" line by Versace. The wide gold band is solid in the back, but the front is pierced in a classic Greek key pattern. The pierced area is pavé-set with 59 round brilliant-cut diamonds (G/VVS2). Prior to his death in 1997, Gianni Versace created a limited line of fine jewelry, and this particular design appeared as rings, bracelets and earrings. The back of the band is signed "VERSACE" and the interior is marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks. The ring is accompanied with its original embossed leather presentation box and the original paperboard outer box. The original retail price of this ring was $4,050.

Origin: Italy, 1995. Condition: mint. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Size: 3/8" wide. Weight: 8.0 grams. Total Diamond Weight: .71 carat.

A classically elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and blue sapphire cufflinks in a highly-functional “wrap-around” style. The cufflinks comprise a doubled length of Russian braid chain that passes through the cuff hole and attaches on the other side to the solid clasp. The chains are comfortable to wear, flexing easily, but staying firmly closed from the tension of the cuff fabric. The clasps are set at either end with a rich blue sapphire cabochon. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks, the master goldsmith’s mark and a serial number, and is signed “Boucheron.”

• Origin: France, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: clasp length 15/16”; chain diameter, 3mm.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.68 carats.
• Weight: 14.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with round brilliant cut amethysts in collet settings. The necklace is completed with a dog clip clasp. The chain can be worn at is full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 16.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.6 carats

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with oval amethysts in collet settings. The chain can be worn at its full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 14.1 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 13.9 carats

An extraordinary pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold enameled cufflinks, the faces featuring flowers bearing a secret message. In Victorian symbology, the daisy represented "innocence" or "purity", whereas the red poppy meant "pleasure". Taken together, the choice of flowers in these cufflinks was certainly intended to convey an erotic sentiment. The faces are beautifully hand-pierced and highlighted with translucent enamels in delicate shades of green, rosy red and whitish-yellow. The exposed areas of gold are worked in the semi-matte Russian finish popular in better quality Art Nouveau jewels. Each face is marked with the "tete d'aigle" for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; a couple of extremely minor enamel flakes under magnification. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A substantial pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the oval faces inset with a mother-of-pearl plaque centering a bezel-set round brilliant diamond of approximately .6 carat. The outer edges of the faces is finished in a border of small round diamonds. The hinges and either end of the back closures are finished with spessartite garnet cabochons. The diamonds are G color, I1 clarity.

Ca. 1980's. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 13/16" x 5/8". Weight: 18.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 cts; garnet, .70 ct.

A pair of high quality 1960s French 18K gold earrings featuring cabochons of ruby, sapphire and emerald nestled in a spiky gold design the resembles chestnuts as they burst from their shells at the peak of ripeness. The gemstones are intensely saturated in pure tones of red, blue and green. The earrings bear French hallmarks for 18K gold and have an unidentified maker's mark "Ste EUR". The earrings have clip backs, but the levers have an opening so posts could be added, if desired.

• France, circa 1960
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1" x 1 3/8"
• 19.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.52 carats; sapphire, 1.40 carats; emerald, .82 carat

An outstanding Victorian 18K yellow gold oval slide locket, the cover with set with an amazing sardonyx cameo depicting an early steamship also rigged with sails. The single smoke funnel, the sails’ rigging and the absence of a sidewheel suggest the locket dates to the mid-19th century. The carving is expertly worked using the alternating cream and rust colors of the sardonyx to represent every small detail. The marshy foreground is littered with barrels, crates and a large anchor. The hardstone is surrounded by a Greek key pattern carved into the gold. This pattern is repeated on the back cover surrounding an oval or engine-turned engraving. The locket opens by sliding sideways from a pivot at the top. Lockets were used, of course, to hold pictures, locks of hair or other sentimental remembrances. Most likely, a locket with this kind of decoration would have been worn by a ship captain’s wife (the only sailor’s wife likely to have enough money to purchase an expensive locket of this size and quality).

Ca. 1845. Condition: excellent, no damage to carving, 2 pinpoint dings on the back cover, original frames remaining in interior, no monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Size: 1-3/16” x 1-11/16” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 15.9 grams.

An elegant vintage Tiffany & Co. diamond ring from the "Vannerie" collection. The domed band is worked in a woven motif bisected with a slash of round brilliant cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded G/VVS2. The interior of the shank is marked "Tiffany & Co. 750 1989."

• Origin: America, 1989
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at front tapering to 1/4" at back
• Finger Size: 8-1/4
• Weight: 13.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat.
• Condition: excellent; typical surface wear at the back of the shank

A stunning pair of 18K yellow and white gold earrings by Faraone in cooperation with Tiffany & Co. The yellow gold half-hoops are accented with white gold "stems" that burst open flowers set with marquise cut rubies. The rubies have fine slightly purplish-red color saturation. Intact inclusions indicate that the rubies are unheated. Faraone was one of the oldest jewelers in Italy, serving as court jeweler to the Royal household and to luminaries such as Maria Callas. The Settepasse family, Faraone's owners, joined forces with Tiffany in 1960 to manage Tiffany's European expansion. The companies jointly owned two boutiques in Milan and Florence. The earrings are signed by both Faraone and Tiffany, are marked for 18K gold, and have English import marks for 1990.

• Origin: Italy, 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 15/16"; width, 1/2"
• Weight: 19.5 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.0 carat