Each of the double loops of the bow appears to be set with two amethysts, but there is in fact only one amethyst on each side. The gemstones are precision-cut to fit perfectly into the platinum setting and give the appearance of being four stones. The amethysts are graded as medium, moderately strong Purple (P5/4) in color, with eye-clean clarity. This is the color and intensity sometimes termed "Siberian".
The 104 old mine cut and rose cut diamonds along the platinum borders total approximately 2.94 carats range from VS2 to SI2 clarity and H-J color.
The platinum setting is beautifully crafted, with a pierced gallery and engraved details around the collet setting of the center stone.
The brooch is hallmarked with the extremely rare master goldsmith's mark used by Cartier for only a three-year period, 1919-1922.
Origin: Paris, France, 1919-1922. Condition: very good, there is a small chip on the inside edge of each amethyst near the junction with the center diamond, visible upon very close inspection in strong raking light (one visible only from the reverse). Size: 3" x 27/32". Weight: 18.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 22.68 carats; diamond, 4.02 carats.
The back of the piece has a pinstem that can be unscrewed and removed for wear as a pendant with the folding bail. The shape of the bail suggests that there was probably an optional comb fitting so that the piece could be worn as a hair ornament. The very finest quality and most expensive jewels of the era sometimes had various fittings so the owner could get as much use from a piece as possible.
The caduceus is the herald's wand carried by the Greek messenger god Hermes (and his Roman counterpart Mercury). It is sometimes topped with spread wings echoing the god's winged sandals. In contemporary usage it is the symbol of the medical profession. This linkage likely stems from the myth of the god Apollo sending Hermes to deliver his half-mortal son Aesculapius from the body of his dead mortal mother as her body was consumed by the fire of her funeral pyre. Aesculapius went on to become a healer and founded the cult of which Hippocrates, the founder of western medicine, was a follower.
Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8" x 2-3/8". Weight: 12.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.90 cts.
Origin: probably France, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 cts; rubellite, 5.08 cts.
Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 27/32” x 1/2. Weight: 15.5 grams.
Origin: France, ca. 1840. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3-1/2" diameter, excluding handle. Weight: 113.4 grams.
Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, a 1/32" nick to the enamel on one cufflink. Size: 1" x 1-18". Weight: 21.6 grams.
Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 6.7 grams.
The rectangular gold case has elegant flaring lugs at each corner. The face is in a matte ivory finish and studded with round diamonds at the 12, 3 and 9 positions. The face is completed with a sweep-second dial in the lower portion and is signed "Tiffany & Co." at the top. The 17-jewel movement is nicely decorated with guilloche engraving and is signed "Hy Moser & Co.". The inside back of the case is signed "Lapwell 14K". The leather strap and clasp are replacements.
Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: very good, working condition. Size: case, 1-7/16" x 1-1/8"; lug space, 23/32".
Origin: England, ca. 1780. Condition: excellent, no damage to glass panel. Size: 1-5/16" x 13/16". Finger Size: 9-3/4.
Origin: Spain, ca. 1890. Size: 6-9/16" x 3-11/16" x 2-5/8". Condition: excellent.
Origin: America, 1873-91. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, original gilding intact. Size: 4-1/8" long. Weight: 86.6 grams.
Origin: Denmark, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 17.4 grams.
Origin: Italy, ca. 1960s. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 11.8 grams.
Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.
Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 33.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 25.84 carats; diamond, .54 carat.
Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/2". Weight: 6.5 grams.
Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1/4". Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.
Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32” x 5/16”. Weight: 3.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .98 ct; ruby, .88 ct.