Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Retro (56)

An attractive pair of Retro 14K yellow gold dangle earrings fashioned as circles of gold balls centering round brilliant cut amethysts. The amethysts have rich deep coloring and excellent clarity. The earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted to wires. The new look is much more wearable and provides tons of sparkly movement!

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1 3/8" long from top of wires.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.76 carats.
• Condition: Very good; a couple of small dings on the back sides.

A lovely antique 14K yellow gold floral wide band depicting twining branches of roses, each set with a ruby at the center of the petals. The flowers are separated by round brilliant cut diamonds. The band is finished with scalloped edges. The diamonds range from SI1 to I1 with G color. As is typical of the wartime period, the gold has generous weight and the rubies are synthetic. The interior is stamped with “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1945
• Condition: very good, typical surface wear to rubies
• Finger Size: 6
• Dimensions: 3/8” wide
• Weight: 6.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; diamond, .18 carat

A lovely pair of 10K yellow gold drop earrings decorated with a golden bows centered with round brilliant cut blue zircons. The gems have deep coloring and show nicely in a small size. These Retro earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted for pierced ears. The earrings have nice movement and could be worn with either casual or cocktail attire. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, circa 1935.
• Excellent condition.
• 9/16" wide; 1-1/4" long from top of wire.
Weight: 3.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Zircon Weight: 1.28 carats.

A chunky French tank bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold. The 1937 World’s Fair gave rise to a fashion for “tank jewelry,” so called for its perceived resemblance to the treads of armored tanks. This bracelet features angular ridges alternating with rounded elements that creates a woven visual effect. The angular segments are reeded, and the center reed of each is stippled for textural interest and is worked in bright yellow gold to contrast with the rose tint of the rest of the bracelet. The tongue of the clasp is marked with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1940
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-1/2”
• Weight: 56.0 grams
• Condition: excellent, no dings

A noble poodle stands encircled in a ring of gold in this Art Deco period French 18K gold charm or pendant. The dog’s stylized design echoes the ribbed and twisted rope motifs along the edges. The pendant retains the original matching jump ring. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” wide; 1 1/8” height (including jump ring).
• Weight: 4.8 grams.

A whimsical Retro 18K yellow gold, amazonite and ruby brooch in the form of a stork. The turquoise coloring of the amazonite against the red of the ruby eye is very attractive. The use of amazonite is unusual, but the color and texture are evocative of a bird's plumage. This piece could easily be updated to become a pendant instead of a pin. The reverse is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 4.93 cts; ruby, .05 ct.

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

An impressive Retro period ring worked in 18K yellow gold with platinum accents, and featuring a .48-ct old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of bright .47-ct round brilliant synthetic rubies (customary for the period). The ring was designed by Albert Rolland, a custom jeweler who set up shop in Paris in 1904, and is finely detailed with ropetwists and beading, as well as an ornate gallery along the sides. The gallery is fairly deep, so the ring sits nicely above the finger. The diamond is graded as J/SI1. The rubies have bright, clear coloring. The shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold and platinum marks and with Rolland's master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 9.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .48 ct; ruby, .94 ct.

A very attractive Retro bracelet worked in 18K yellow, rose and white gold. The design has the industrial look typical of French Retro pieces. The gold is strongly colored, so there is very good contrast in the design. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.

A marvelous pair of Retro Moderne 18K yellow gold dress clips formed as a bouquet of diamond-studded platinum flowers, the stems tied with a ribbon set with calibre-cut rubies, all against a scrolled gold background. Buds represented by diamonds set in platinum and rubies set in gold are scattered around the flowers. The design is quite sophisticated and the stones are of very nice quality. The clips are perfectly sized—one worn alone isn’t so small that it gets lost, but the two worn together aren’t overwhelming, either. The pair can be worn on jacket lapels or on either side of a dress neckline. The backs retain the original hinged double-prong coat clip and anchor pin often seen on better French jewelry of the period. A good jeweler could convert the clips to be worn as either pierced or clip-back earrings. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1940.

Condition: excellent, all original.

Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4".

Weight: 16.5 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .9 carat; ruby, .6 carat.

A lovely Retro necklace worked in 14K rose and yellow gold and set with moonstones and amethysts. The necklace descends from a rose gold paperclip link chain toward a pair of openwork yellow gold plaques, each set with a round amethyst accented with a rose gold stylized flower, and flanking a central triangular plaque designed in the same manner. A pair of oval cabochon moonstones is set at either side. The central plaque suspends a larger oval moonstone with a nearly invisible setting. The moonstones have very nice bluish adularescence and the amethysts have rich purple color. The interplay of gemstone and gold colors and the unusual design mixing Victorian, Art Nouveau and Retro elements creates a very striking effect. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: ecellent, all original. Size: 17-5/8” long; central plaque and pendant, 1-3/8” long. Weight: 14.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.43 cts; amethyst, .32 ct.

A very nice Retro 14K yellow gold statement ring set with an imposing lemon yellow emerald cut citrine flanked by natural ruby cabochons. The split shank with a cage setting holds the citrine only at the very corners, so from the top, the entire ring appears to be one large expanse of gemstone. The rubies provided a nice pop of color. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Dimensions: citrine, 19x11mm. Weight: 13.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.16 cts; citrine 23.20 cts.

A very fine Retro Moderne brooch in the form of a three-leaf clover, each leaf fashioned from an heart-shaped aquamarine, and centered with a pearl. The aquamarines are simply framed in gold collet settings with halo wirework accented with beading. The stones, 1.33 carats on either side and 1.87 carats at the top, have stunning pure blue coloring without a hint of gray. The 5.5mm pearl has an ivory body color with rosé overtones, and a very nice, lustrous surface. The back of the brooch retains the original pinstem and safety clasp, and is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: Excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 1-7/32”. Weight: 4.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.53 carats.

A lovely pair of colorful Retro earrings worked in 14K yellow gold. Each earring is fashioned in a stylized fan pattern set at the center with a round brilliant cut blue zircon and a spray of oval cabochon moonstones. The intense electric blue of the zircons heightens the softer, billowy blue adularescence of the moonstones. The zircons are set in rose gold, while the moonstones are in yellow. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8 x 3/4 in. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: zircon, 1.76 cts; moonstone, 7.38 cts.

A beautiful and rare Retro 14K yellow and white gold floral brooch featuring carved jadeite leaves and a carved rock crystal blossom. The rock crystal has an opalescent quality that appears much like moonstone. Both the front and back surfaces are finely engraved to suggest floral textures. The jade is brightly colored and contrasts nicely with the golden stems and leaves. The back is marked “14K”. Carved gemstone floral pins are quite uncommon.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-11/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 12.0 grams.

An elegant Retro Moderne 14K yellow gold brooch in a stylized bow form, the center set with a large emerald-cut citrine of medium honey color, and the loops sprinkled with round brilliant-cut rubies. Some Retro pieces can be overly heavy, but this pin has a pleasant lightness despite its large size. The gemstones are of fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3” x 1”. Weight: 15.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; citrine, 10.4 carats.

A fine Retro brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and set with diamonds and blue sapphires. The brooch is shaped as a stylized bow when worn vertically or a comet when worn sideways. The gold surfaces are pierced to lighten the overall effect. The center is set with a cluster of round brilliant and single-cut diamonds (J/SI1) surrounded by blue sapphires of slightly violetish-blue color and excellent clarity. The back is marked 14K and also has a mark for an unidentified maker.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 2-5/16" x 1-7/8"
• Weight: 18.8 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .6 carat; sapphire, 2.0 carats

A lovely and unusual Retro 14K yellow gold floral pin, the flower set with a large round moonstone cabochon surrounded by round cut rhodolite garnet petals. The bouquet is tied together with a collet-set round cut citrine. The gemstones are of very fine quality. The moonstone has excellent blue adularescence and the rhodolites have intense raspberry red coloring. Rhodolite garnets are not often seen in Retro jewels. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-5/8” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 7.0 cts; rhodolite, 3.51 cts; citrine, .45 ct.