Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Art Nouveau (166)

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in gilt silver depicting a pair of hounds against a background of oak leaves and acorns. The quality of the casting and chasing is very nice. The reverse is marked "800".

• Origin: Europe, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-9/32" diameter
• WeightL 13.0 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau 18K gold, platinum and diamond pendant and brooch depicting a young woman with flowing flower-bedecked hair. She represents the Spring season, “Printemps.” Each of the flowers is centered a rose cut diamond and the maiden wears a necklace of rose cut diamonds, as well. The gold surface is bloomed for a slightly matte finish. The pendant/brooch is faintly heart-shaped and is finished along the edges with 54 rose cut diamonds set in platinum. The pinstem unscrews from the back, so the jewel can be worn as a pendant from the two pendant loops at the top corners. This design was commissioned in 1886 from the medallist Emile Séraphin Vernier by the esteemed house Fonsèque et Olive which was one of Paris’ most successful Art Nouveau jewelers.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/16 x 1-1/8”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat
• Weight: 8.9 grams

An elegant pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings designed in a openwork pattern of irises. The flowers and foliage are highlighted with delicate engraving. The gold surfaces are enhanced with the soft matte texture typical of French jewels of the period. The wires appear to be replacements and are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" 3/4". Weight: 4.7 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket depicting the head of a lion in 3/4 profile on the cover. His eyes are set with round faceted rubies (natural and untreated) and he grasps a 5-pt old European cut diamond in his jaws. The flowing mane is just visible behind the head and blends into the swirling border that completes the design. The plain back cover was never engraved.

• America, ca 1890
• Very good condition; a few small pinpoints on the back cover
• 1-1/8" diameter
• 6.5 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, .05 carat

A stunning French 18K yellow gold and diamond pansy brooch in the Art Nouveau taste. The petals are beautifully decorated in translucent enamels shading from silvery white to cream to rose. The outer ruffled edge of each petal is outlined in small rose cut diamonds. The pansy is centered by a larger rose cut diamond of unusually good color and clarity. As is typical of 19th century French jewels, the diamonds are set in silver. Each petal is cast separately and then attached to the others with a screw mechanism. The back has a replaced pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, one 1/8" area of flaking enamel visible under magnification. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 18.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.385 cts.

A lovely, and rather heavy Art Nouveau 18K gold watch pin decorated with finely cast and engraved fuchsia blossoms and leaves. Even the overall inverted teardrop shape of the pin is reminiscent of the drooping profile of a fuschia. In Victorian flower language, the fuschia represented "good taste." Pin retains the original clasp and watch hook. It could also be worn as a pendant with the addition of a couple of hidden loops to the back that could be attached to a split chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-1/16"
• Weight: 5.7 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet worked in 18K gold, each link is the form of a pansy enclosed in a scrolling border. The Victorian floriography (the “language of flowers”), the pansy represented the sentiment “think of me.” Jewels with pansies were often given as a romantic gesture or by the parents of a young woman upon her marriage. The bracelet is stamped with 18K fineness marks and an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-7/8” long; 1/2" wide
• Weight: 16.4 grams

A stunning Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Athena, goddess of wisdom and war, and patron of the arts, in 18K gold. The goddess is depicted with several of her attributes, including a dragon-topped war helmet, a wreath of olive leaves, an owl, and a drama mask representing the arts. Her helmet is studded with a star-set ruby and a band of rose-cut diamonds and she wears a necklace of rose-cut diamonds. This design was created by Louis Armand Rault, a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75. This is once of his most iconic designs, though it is unusual in having quite so many gemstones added. Rault apparently licensed many of his designs to various makers, though the gold examples are French more often than not. This example is fully stamped with French marks for 18K and has an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; diamond, .05 carat.

An important 18K yellow gold and natural semi-baroque pearl necklace in the "Lierre" ("Ivy") design by Edouard Aimé Arnould. The necklace features five foliate plaques set with pearls flanked on either side with a long- and short-link chain. The sculptural quality of the leaves is enhanced with areas of bright polish contrasting with areas in a slightly matte finish, a technique repeated on the back sides, as well. The natural pearls have excellent luster with faintly lavender/rose overtones. In Victorian symbolism, ivy represented the bonds of love in marriage. One can imagine a bride, even today, wearing such a necklace with her gown! Each section of the necklace is stamped with French 18K marks, and the central plaque is signed "Arnould".

Arnould was among the most important of the French Art Nouveau jewelers and is well listed in most of the scholarly references of the period. He opened his studio at 7, rue Racine, Paris in 1890. In 1911, a French design journal credited him with "jewels of the best taste." Around 1900, Maison Arnould published a catalog. The final photograph in this listing shows the necklace as it was listed in the catalog. It's interesting to note that the necklace was available with or without the natural pearls, and that the price nearly doubled for the pearl version. Other pages of the catalog show the "Lierre" design used for pendants, bracelet charms, hair barrettes, brooches, rings, bracelets and cufflinks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: overall length, 16-1/2"; length of floral plaques together, 6-1/2"; center plaque, 2" x 1-3/4". Weight: 31.2 grams.

A fine Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Demeter (Ceres), goddess of the harvest, in 18K gold by Louis Rault. She is shown in profile with several of her attributes a tiara of wheat and poppies and a scythe. The wears a rose-cut diamond earring, a diamond toga clasp, and a third in her tiara. Louis Armand Rault was a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75 and this is one of his signature designs. The brooch is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold medallion pin depicting Hamlet’s beloved Ophelia (the brooch uses the French spelling “Ophelie”) surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, all symbols of her watery grave after she was spurned by Hamlet. Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. The back has a hook that would have been used to suspend a watch. The back retains the original c-clasp (marked 14K) and extended pinstem. Unlike most Art Nouveau medallion pins, this example is not hollow and is heavy. This design was created by the French jeweler Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) and was introduced at the 1908 Exposition de la Parure de la Femme in Paris.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

An interesting 10K Victorian pin in the form of a mythological creature coiled around a flame-like pillar. The creature appears to be an Ophis, a winged serpent from Greek mythology said to guard the myrrh fields of ancient Arabia. The monster grasps a seed pearl in it's jaws. The surfaces have a semi-matte bloomed finish. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 2.6 grams

A very good French Art Nouveau 18K gold watch pin in the form of a mythological creature that appears to be a dragon with outspread feathered wings. The details are beautifully worked. The reverse is engraved to match the front. The creature grasps an antique cushion cut diamond in its jaws. The pin retains its original watch hook on the back. This piece could easily and inexpensively be transformed into a pendant with the additional of two pendant hooks at the wingtips. The back is marked with French 18K gold hallmarks, an illegible master goldsmith’s mark, and a design number indicating that the piece was made by a renowned maker of the period.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/8”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 12.7 grams

An outstanding Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated in with an ornate pond scene incorporating rippling water, waterlilies and cattails under the watchful eye of the “man in the moon” and seed pearl stars. The scene is very original and is beautifully worked. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “GEG”. The interior retains both original frames and one of the glass covers. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 7.9 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Art Nouveau pendant depicting Erato, the goddess muse of lyric poetry, by the noted French medallist Lucien Joseph René Janvier (b 1878). The goddess is depicted with a crown of laurel leaves on her flowing hair and with a cithara (ancient lyre-like instrument), her traditional emblem in the background. Janvier was particularly known for his medallist jewels and his shortened signature appears in the design just behind the goddess’ head. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4 x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 13.8 gr.

A fine early French Art Nouveau orchid brooch, the flower petals carved from banded agate around old mine cut diamond stamens, all set atop an elegant gold stem set with rose cut diamonds. The flower is a single piece of agate, finished with a matte surface to suggest the texture of a real flower petals. The carver left streaks of a darker colored agate on the back to create the delicately-colored veining that shows through the petals. The petal at lower left is turned back on itself to enhance the realistic effect. The reverse is stamped with a "tete de Mercure" hallmark indicating 18K gold that was intended to be sold abroad. There is also an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent; all original; a few tiny fleabites on one petal visible only with 10X magnification
• Dimensions: 2-5/8" x 1-1/4"Weight: 10.25 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .85 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold floral pendant. The flowers are represented by small rose cut diamonds and a round brilliant ruby. The gold foliage is finely engraved in a naturalistic pattern. The brooch suspends a drop-shaped natural pearl with fine luster. The ruby, though small, has fine red color and excellent clarity. The pendant is suspended from its bale with a double chain. Fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/32” wide; 1-3/8” long (not including chain); 2-1/4” long (including chain). Weight: 4.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .16 ct; diamond, .10 ct.

A magnificent French Art Nouveau 18K gold and diamond slide locket, the front cover featuring a a fierce griffin clutching an old European cut diamond in its mouth. The beast is beautifully chased and engraved with a lot of detail in the feathers and fur. The griffin is presented against an ornately pierced Renaissance style background that would allow small peaks to show through of any portrait or photo enclosed in the locket. In Greek mythology, griffins were the guardians of the most treasured and priceless possessions, and its role on the front of a locket mimics that idea. The diamond is of equally high quality, graded as G color, VVS1 clarity. The bail has partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; a few small pinpoint dings on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diam (excluding bail). Weight: 14.6 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .24 ct.