Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Period (171)

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. The remainder of the text is highlighted in black enamel. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1975.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.6 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A stunning bombe-form ring, worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The center of the ring is set with 63 square cut blue sapphires invisibly-set into platinum, flanked on either side by a total of 62 round brilliant cut diamonds pave-set in gold. Mystery-setting, accomplished by cutting a thin groove into the girdle of each stone and then sliding it along a complex network of fine platinum wires, was invented jointly by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier in the 1930s. Today, it remains one of the most technically difficult stone-setting techniques and is tackled by very few houses. The platinum and gold components were fashioned separately and then assembled with a screw mechanism after the sapphires and diamonds were set. The design of the mounting itself locks the stones in place. The sapphires are well-matched and are color-graded as dark, strong blue (B7/5) and overall clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are of similarly high quality, with H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The interior of the shank has a worn maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7. Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown. Weight: 17.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.

An elegant and playful 18K gold “Lentil” pendant studded with an array of colored diamonds—pale blue, green, canary yellow and pink—each in a round brilliant-cut. The gold surface has a matte Russian finish that contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the diamonds. Perret is one of the most acclaimed jewelry designers in America. He has won DeBeers’ diamond award twice, has been a consultant to Tiffany & Co. and has designed and manufactured a line of jewels for Mikimoto. He is most noted for his work with rare colored diamonds. The pendant looks best worn on a gold snake or wire chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Etienne Perret”, has the maker’s mark, and “18K”. Similar pendants are currently available from Perret, priced at approximately $1,200.

Origin: America, contemporary. Size: 17mm. Condition: excellent, a tiny scratch to the front surface visible upon very close inspection. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

A classic late 1960s 14K gold and diamond cocktail ring in a "snowflake" design. The seventeen diamonds are set in white gold to highlight their color. The diamonds are graded as J/I1. The openness of the setting gives the ring a delicate appearance. The yellow gold shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8" diameter. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm in a crown form, set with five oval brilliant cut amethysts and four pearls. The amethysts have nice intense coloring and good clarity. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with ropetwists and rosettes. Marked 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.

A very attractive vintage 14K yellow gold link bracelet, each link set with round brilliant cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are textured to resemble the tree bark. The diamonds are graded as I/SI1. The clasp is stamped with a French mark for imported 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-5/8”.
• Weight: 57.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.14 carats.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with oval amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice intense violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" wide x 1-1/8” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.99 carats
• Weight: 8.4 grams

An outstanding 14K yellow gold and pearl ring in a sophisticated modernist the design. The split shank creates a flat crown enclosing a row of three pearls, graduating from 5.3 to 6.6 mm. The quality of the pearls are easily on a par with Mikimoto. The luster is superb, the color is cream with rosé overtones, and the surfaces are smooth. Overall, the quality is estimated at AA. The quality of the mounting itself, is likewise superb. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 3/4" x 7/16". Finger Size: 4-3/4 (could easily be enlarged). Weight: 9.5 grams.

A fabulous pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik DANGLE earrings by H Stern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are the only examples of dangle Sputniks we have ever seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: spheres, 19/32" (16mm) diameter; length, 1-5/8" (44mm)
• Weight: 6.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.2 carats

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, almandite garnet, aquamarine, amethyst and citrine. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and even how they are arranged in relation to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Soviet satellite. The earrings originally had posts which have been removed, leaving only the clips. Posts could be added again quite easily. The backs are signed by Stern and are marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.37 carats (tourmaline, 4.25 cts; almandite garnet 2.87 cts; citrine, 2.75 cts; aquamarine, 1.40 cts; amethyst, 1.10 cts).

An 18K gold and amethyst Venetian Etruscan charm or pendant enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. The larger portions of the gold surface are worked in an engraved crosshatch pattern that is very unusual for Italian charms of the period. The decoration creates a soft sheen rather than a glittery surface. The amethysts are set with fleur-de-lis and claw prongs. The amethysts have deep purple coloring and are of very nice quality. The bail is marked "18K Italy."

• Origin: Italy, circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring) (23 x 23 x 40 mm)
• Weight: 15.9 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 9.6 carats

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is a little less haphazard than some and has a more symmetrical appearance (notice the alternating light and dark colored stones in the first ring out from the center stone and the placement of the citrines and orangy spessartite garnets always at an angle from each other in the outer rows). The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with a Stern mark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-1/4. Size: 7/8” diameter; 1/2" high. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.18 cts (amethyst, .59; aquamarine, 1.2; citrine, .78; green tourmaline, .68; spessartite garnet, .93).

A nice pair of vintage “Sputnik” earrings set with citrines. This style was popularized by H. Stern in the 1950s as a way to show of the company’s unparalleled access to the world’s finest colored gemstones. The design eventually became known as “Sputnik” because of the perceived resemblance to the Soviet satellite active during the early years of the space race. Generally, Sputnik pieces were set with multi-colored stones, but occasionally a piece turns up set only with one stone, as in this case. The citrines have medium-dark, strongly saturated yellowish-orange color that contrasts beautifully with the more yellowish color of the gold mountings. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.92 carats. 15/16" in diameter.

A large 18K gold, ruby & diamond love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“more than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand author of “Cyrano,” in 1889. The word plus is represented by a plus sign set with a small rose cut diamond, while “moins” is represented by a minus sign set with small synthetic rubies. The medal is surrounded by a lacy Gothic-style gold border. Alphonse Augis began designing these love medallions in 1907, and the styles have changed over the years.

• Origin: France, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter.
• Weight: 5.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .04 carat.

A nice Italian Etruscan style 18K gold lantern-shamed fob charm enhanced with coral cabochons. The midsection of the charm is left open to give it a feeling of lightness and to bring more life to the coral. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire and rosette decoration. The charm is stamped “750” for 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” wide, 1-1/4” long (excluding jump ring)

A lovely pair of 14K yellow gold earrings in a swirling foliate pattern set with pearls. The pearls, ranging 4.5-6mm, have cream body color with rose overtones. The surfaces are smooth and have fine luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1” x 7/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

An impressively large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant in a crown shape set with large oval amethysts enhanced with smaller round amethysts. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very rich, deep violet coloring. Marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 25.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.29 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This particular example has a warm appearance, with an abundance of medium-tone gold and deep crimson colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 11/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.14 cts.