Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold: Period (172)

A striking Modernist take on a traditional 18K gold floral brooch. The stark thorn-like arrangement, enhanced with Akoya pearls, has an almost brutalist style. The gold surfaces are stippled to create a matte texture that contrasts with the polished gold of the small ribbon at the base. The pearls are nice quality with ivory body color. The brooch looks equally stylish worn as a pendant. The back is stamped "18K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1960
• DIMENSIONS 2 3/16" x 1 1/2"
• WEIGHT 10.2 grams
• CONDITION excellent

An attractive vintage Venetian Etruscan Revival fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold. The charm is set along the edges with alternating round amethysts and citrines. The center of one face is set with an amethyst and the other with a citrine. Exposed gold surfaces are intricately enhanced with rosettes and twisted wire decoration. The combination of violet and golen-yellow gemstones is quite attractive. Teted and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 9.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.9 cts; citrine 2.9 cts.

An 18K gold and amethyst Venetian Etruscan charm or pendant enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. The larger portions of the gold surface are worked in an engraved crosshatch pattern that is very unusual for Italian charms of the period. The decoration creates a soft sheen rather than a glittery surface. The amethysts are set with fleur-de-lis and claw prongs. The amethysts have deep purple coloring and are of very nice quality. The bail is marked "18K Italy."

• Origin: Italy, circa 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-1/2" (excluding jump ring) (23 x 23 x 40 mm)
• Weight: 15.9 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: 9.6 carats

A nice vintage 18K yellow gold spherical charm studded with red cabochons (possibly stained red chalcedony). The gold surfaces are nicely decorated with bright-cut engraving that simulates the beading of classic Etruscan pieces. Large charms of this sort were very popular during the 1950s and 60s. Marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four oval cabochons of amazonite. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 12.75 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. His designs changed over time and this piece is a classic example from the 1960s. The heart-shaped medallion is surrounded by a border of smaller hearts alternating with prong-set synthetic rubies. The front is signed A.A. and the pendant is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1965
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 4.7 grams

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).

An impressively large 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm or pendant in a crown shape set with large oval amethysts enhanced with smaller round amethysts. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very rich, deep violet coloring. Marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 25.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.29 cts.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, almandite garnet, aquamarine, amethyst and citrine. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and even how they are arranged in relation to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Soviet satellite. The earrings originally had posts which have been removed, leaving only the clips. Posts could be added again quite easily. The backs are signed by Stern and are marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.37 carats (tourmaline, 4.25 cts; almandite garnet 2.87 cts; citrine, 2.75 cts; aquamarine, 1.40 cts; amethyst, 1.10 cts).

A stunning pair of vintage 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips set with diamonds by Cartier. The clips are worked in heavily textured gold that resembles a flame motif that ascends the earlobe when being worn. The recessed parts of the texture are unpolished, creating a strong contrast with the remaining highly-polished surfaces. Each clip features a irregularly shaped cluster of nine platinum-set round brilliant diamonds, graded as E-VVS2. These earrings are a lovely example of Cartier's prevailing style in the early 1960s. The gold shortages that followed World War II were in the past, so jewelry could take on a heavier look; and there was a pronounced fondness for chunkier, daytime jewelry that reflected the modern woman. It was important, however, that the jewelry could be worn in the evening as well. The backs are signed "Cartier France" and bear all the appropriate marks for 18K gold. The clips are original and never had posts, but posts could be added without disturbing any of the signatures or markings.

Origin: France, ca. 1962. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.

A colorful Venetian Etruscan fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold and set with six emerald cut amethysts. The gold surfaces are covered with ornate ropetwists, rosettes and beading. The shape—sort of an elongated barrel—is unusual and shows off the richly-colored amethysts to good advantage. The jump ring is marked 750 for "18K".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1" x 3/4". Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.1 cts.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The spheres are collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around central aquamarines set at the tops of the domes. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. These earrings have a bright appearance with strong aquamarines and light pink tourmalines. The earrings retain their original clips which could easily be replaced with posts, if desired. The earrings are unsigned, but most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.50 carats.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with round amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice medium-light violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounded gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide x 1” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 3.04 carats
• Weight: 6.2 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst-textured background paired with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The smaller size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 21/32” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .06 carat.

A fine 18K yellow gold Sputnik charm or pendant by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with 21 round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, aquamarines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This example is a little darker than most examples, with lots of deeply saturated greens and golds. The sputnik design was made in rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets, brooches and charms. Charms are among the less common forms, and this example is large enough to be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: very good, a 1/8” ding on one side between the gemstones. Dimensions: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.34 cts.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips, each featuring a cluster of round green tourmalines surrounded by a looping double border of gold. The tourmalines are have fine, saturated color, excellent cut and excellent clarity. The earrings are marked “18K”. The clips could easily be changed to posts.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 10.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.9 cts.

An unusual 18K gold Etruscan-style Italian charm/pendant featuring four citrines on the sides, a large sugarloaf cabochon carnelian at the bottom, and an fluted chalcedony bead at the top. The gold surfaces have a brushed finish accented with twisted wirework appliques. The color combinations of the gemstones is particularly appealing. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” high; 3/4” wide
• Weight: 15.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 1.5 carats; carnelian, 7.4 carats

A fine 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob bracelet charm or pendant set with five oval amethysts and four pearls in a crown shape. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very attractive medium violet coloring with excellent clarity. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1" x 1-1/4" (excluding bail).
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.55 carats.