Catalog (2428)

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly tourmalines in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The tourmalines have greenish blueish overtones. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings. Posts could be easily added to compliment the omega clips.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 3/4”
• Weight: 16.8 grams,

An elegant and exceptionally high quality pair of earclips in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and sapphires by A Péry et Cie. The earrings feature fields of pave-set round brilliant diamonds bisected by bands of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The diamonds are E color and VS2 clarity; the sapphires are medium-dark strong blue (B6/5) color and eye-clean clarity. Each earring is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and is signed by A. Péry et Cie. The clips have holes, so posts could be added without disrupting the integrity of the earrings.

Péry worked as manufacturer for Van Cleef & Arpels, but also worked for Boivin, Mellerio and other important French jewelers. Péry was responsible for some of VCA most iconic 20th century designs including the Ludo bracelet and the zipper necklace. The Péry ateliers are now owned by VCA.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 24 mm (9/16 x 15/16 in). Weight: 17.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 ct; sapphire, 3.25 ct.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The chain comprises alternating large and small oval links, each inset with an ornate scrolling pattern with millgrained accents. The design is reminiscent of the stone tracery separating the panels in a Gothic stained glass window. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular throughout the Second Empire and into the Belle Epoque. The necklace is stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 29-1/4" long. Weight: 27.1 gr.

A classic, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by David Webb. The front faces are rectangular with canted corners highlighted with opaque blue and white enamel. The smaller back faces are hinged and have solid blue enamel. The connectors are marked "Webb 18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, no enamel loss; extremely minor abrasions to the gold edge of one cufflink from normal wear. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" x 19/32"; smaller faces, 1/2" x 3/8". Weight: 20.1 gr.

A handsome 18K yellow gold ring by Cartier in the "Lanières" design, set with diamonds and rubies. The wide gold band is decorated in an engraved checkerboard pattern, with certain squares filled in with either a brilliant round cut diamond or a round cut ruby. The ring is set with stones on only one side, so it can be turned around and worn as an handsomely geometric wide gold band. The ring can be worn by either a man or woman. The diamonds are graded as F color, SI1 clarity; the rubies are of equally fine quality with good color saturation and minimal inclusions. The inside of the ring is signed “Cartier”, marked “750” for 18K, marked “54” for the European size (the ring actually measures a 55), and has the serial number “949696”.

Origin: France, ca. 1970s. Finger Size: 54/55 (European), 7-1/8 (American). Band Width: 1/2”. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 carat; ruby, .32 carat. Weight: 15.7 grams.

An 18K yellow gold and diamond necklace for the French luxury jeweler Fred of Paris. The design features a series of bar-shaped chain links interrupted by stations collet-set with round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The necklace is 16" long and is designed to curve gently around the lower neck. This length is very versatile for either evening or day wear. The necklace is signed "Fred" and is fully hallmarked with French 18K marks.

Fred Samuelson established his Paris boutique in 1936, and quickly became a favored jeweler to Marlene Dietrich and many other luminaries of the time. Today, there are a few boutiques worldwide, but Fred is still considered an understated luxury of quintessentially Parisian style.

• France, circa 1980
• 16" long; 3/16" wide
• 27.3 grams
• 1.1 carats approximate total diamond weight

A beautiful 18K white gold start pendant set with diamonds and sapphires from Chanel’s haute joaillerie “Comete” collection. Coco Chanel’s first jewelry designs were based on celestial themes and when the house re-entered the luxury jewelry business they reinvented many of her early designs. This star pendant features four round brilliant diamonds and three blue sapphires in different fancy cuts—square, marquise and pear. The diamonds are G color with VS1 clarity. The sapphires are B5/5 color and eye-clean clarity. The different shapes and apparently random arrangement of the gemstones was intended to mimic the placement of stars in the galaxies. The back of the pendant is signed “Chanel”, has the serial number “7E1232” and has appropriate 18K gold hallmarks. The chain clasp is also signed and marked. The original retail price of this pendant was $5,100.

Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: pendant, 5/8” x 3/4"; chain, 16” long. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

An exceptional pair of Victorian carved ivory and 9K yellow gold earrings. The earrings are fashioned as exquisitely detailed cherubs, each suspending three elongated drops. The drops are arranged in the typical girandole style with the central piece hanging lower than the outer elements. The cherubs are fully three-dimensional and the feathered carving on the backs is as fine as that on the front. The ivory has a very nice patina. The style and exceptional quality of carving indicates the ivories were likely carved in Italy, whereas the use of 9K gold suggests they were mounted as jewelry in England. Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter can be seen wearing an ivory cherub brooch quite similar to these in one of her portraits. The girandole style emerged in French jewelry in the early 1700s and remained popular throughout the century. The ornate style returned to popularity during the Rococo Revival around 1870. The wires are stamped with French import marks for 9K. Victorian ivory earrings of this quality are quite uncommon, and we were fortunate to acquire two exceptional pairs from the same source.

Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

An elegant modernist long chain necklace worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring black onyx and green nephrite jade beads. The onyx beads are carved in a melon motif, while the jade beads are left smooth. The jade has even, lightly-mottled color and good translucency. At 33”, the necklace is long enough to be worn at full length or doubled. The combination of strong colors with the yellow gold is very chic. The clasp is marked by an unidentified maker “Ste F”.

Origin: France, ca. 1965-70. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: onyx beads, 11.7mm diameter; nephrite beads, 8.1mm; overall length 33-1/4”. Weight: 43.6 gr.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold knot-style cufflinks set with blue sapphires by Boucheron. The four-lobed faces are formed by a rope-motif tied in an ornate knot. Each lobe features a bright blue round sapphire. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and medium blue color. The faces are joined by solid connectors to toggle backs decorated in a complementary twisted rope design. Each cufflink is signed "Boucheron Paris" and has appropriate serial numbers, 18K marks and the master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.17 cts. Weight: 14.1 gr.

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

A classic coin pendant in a simple 18K gold frame, but featuring a spectacularly rare and beautiful “Franc a cheval” coin from the reign of Jean II “le Bon” (“the Good.”) The coin was minted in Paris for just a little more than three years, December 1360-April 64. The front of the coin depicts the king charging on horseback, wearing full armor and a fleur-de-lis crown and with his broadsword raised. The horse, too, is decked out in armor decorated with fleurs-de-lis. The image is surrounded by a Latin inscription translated as “Jean, by grace of God, King of the Franks.” The obverse features a cross surrounded by fleurs-de-lis, in turn surrounded by the Latin motto, “Christ vanquishes, Christ reigns, Christ commands.” The coin is 24K gold and is mounted in a non-invasive 18K frame. The frame probably dates to the mid-20th century and bears French 18K gold hallmarks. The pendant came from the family that owned the Medieval and Renaissance French coin bracelet in our collection.

Jean ascended to the throne in 1350 at a time when France was suffering from the Black Death and was thirteen years into the Hundred Years’ War with England. He was captured by the Black Prince at the Battle of Poitiers in 1356 and taken to the Tower of London. A treaty with King Edward III promised Jean his freedom if he could pay a ransom equal to three times France’s entire annual revenue. He was granted freedom in exchange for offering his son as a captive while he returned to France to raise the ransom. On December 5, 1360, he issued an order to create an entirely new gold coin to be used for the ransom. The word “franc” meant “freedom,” and thereafter French currency has always been known as the franc. Jean’s son escaped captivity in England in 1363, but in chivalric gesture, the King volunteered to take his place, saying “If good faith were banned from the Earth, it ought to find asylum in the hearts of kings.” He returned to England, where he died the following year.

• Origin: France, 1350-54
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 8.2 grams

A lovely 18K gold bracelet in the Louis XVI style, the links fashioned as floral and foliate wreaths alternately centered with old European cut diamonds and round cut rubies. The pierced design lends a light appearance despite the bracelet’s substantial weight. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide; 7-1/2” long
• Weight: 29.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; ruby, .44 carat

A 14K white gold pendant featuring a prong-set 1.04 carat diamond (H/I1). The diamond has very good cut and brilliance. The pendant is accompanied by an 18-3/4" white gold chain.

An extremely rare pair of 18K yellow gold and citrine cufflinks by the mid-century Brazilian jewelry designers Roberto and Haroldo Burle Marx. The Burle Marx brothers were particularly know for their use of colored gemstones fashioned in the "forma livre" (free-form) style. Haroldo invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style of the swivel mechanism suggests that the cufflinks are relatively early—probably around 1955. The gold sunburst setting of these cufflinks shows the design hand of Haroldo's older brother, Roberto. The citrines have a deep honey color accented beautiful by the shades created from the carving. The backs are fully marked with Burle Marx's hallmark and marks for 18K.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 12.8 gr. Estimated Gemstone Weight: 5.8 cts.

A stunning Georgian 18K gold textured chain necklace suspending a graduated series of nineteen carved hardstone hearts. The colorful stones include lapis lazuli, moonstone, opal, carnelian, moss agate, porphyry, chrysoprase, banded agate, jasper and more. Stones such as these would have been mined in many different parts of the globe, and wearing a necklace of such "specimens" would have indicated wealth as well as a certain curiosity and intelligence about the world. The heart theme expressed the sentimental side of Georgian jewelry. The chain is entirely handmade and is fastened with the original barrel clasp decorated with beading in the Etruscan manner. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France or England, ca. 1800. Condition: very good, several of the hearts have minor roughnesses to the edges consistent with two centuries of wear. Length: 16-3/4". Weight: 19.0 gr.

A classic sporting bracelet featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting a fox and a pair of horses. The gold mountings are formed from snaffle bits, horseshoes, riding crops, saddle belts and stirrups. The Essex crystals are expertly carved and painted with fine depth. The reverse is stamped with 14K marks and the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
• Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
• Weight: 26.9 grams.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold fancy watch chain featuring large links that we’d now call “Gucci links” in rose gold, alternating with smaller connector links in a slightly more yellow shade. Each of the large links is pierced with a star motif and the edges are enhanced with a fluted and ribbed pattern. The smaller links are chased in a floral pattern. The chain is finished with a ring and t-bar closure. The chain has a very substantial, “chunky” appearance, but is of moderate weight and comfortable for regular wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: large link width, 13/32”; overall length, 18”.
• Weight: 38.4 grams.

An elegant 18K yellow gold ring set with a faceted amethyst by famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. The sculptural quality of the design is highlighted by the contrast of wire-brushed and polished surfaces surrounding the deep violet amethyst. The interior of the shank is fully signed "Burle Marx 18K" and has Brazilian hallmarks.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Haroldo Burle Marx is well-known for jewels set with stones in "forma livre" (free-form) designs, but occasional pieces turn up with traditionally-cut stones. Some believe these designs were created in partnership with his brother, the noted landscape architect Roberto.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" wide at crown tapering 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 9
• Weight: 15.8 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 6.72 carats

A very fine French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold festoon necklace comprising three gold plaques exquisitely engraved in a pattern of roses and their foliage. The plaques are curved to create a "festoon" look, and are suspended from a gold chain set with natural seed pearls. The backs of the plaques are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the roses—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. Each plaque also includes stems with pronounced thorns, perhaps as a reminder of the selflessness of love. Victorian floriography adoped red roses to represent love from the myth of Aphrodite and Adonis. As she raced to the side of her fallen mortal lover, Aphrodite pricked her toe on the thorn of a white rose and her blood forever stained the flower red. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: necklace length, 16-3/4"; central plaque, 1-7/8" wide, 1-1/4" high
• Weight: 21.9 grams

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with lapis lazuli inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was a lead designer at Tiffany & Co. She began working at Tiffany in 1967, but was not allowed to sign her own designs until 1974. These earrings are definitely her design, but are unsigned, indicating that they date from the period 1967-74. The earrings are marked “T&Co 18K”.

Origin: America, 1967-74. Size: 7/8” x 3/4". Weight: 15.6 grams.

A very attractive Retro bracelet worked in 18K yellow, rose and white gold. The design has the industrial look typical of French Retro pieces. The gold is strongly colored, so there is very good contrast in the design. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.

A wonderful 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) green tourmaline by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The tourmaline has a deep green color with just a tiny hint of blue undertones, and is set in a florentined finished typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed with Burle Marx's marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba or Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi or India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jewelry of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4" long x 11/16" wide x 1/2" deep; shank tapering to 1/8". Finger Size: 5 (the signature is placed in a way that the ring can be sized up). Weight: 16.5 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 26.0 cts.

A stunning French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold necklace comprising three large and four small gold plaques ornately engraved in a pattern of daisies and foliage. The links are set off at either end with a fancy baton-link chain. The plaques are exquisitely detailed and even the backs are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the daisies—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. In Victorian flower symbolism, the daisy was used to communicate innocence, purity and loyal love. The necklace is delicate, yet has surprising weight because the floral plaques are solid. The necklace is stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 17"; large plaques, 1" x 1/2". Weight: 17.2 gr.

A very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold chain necklace made of fancy open-work links with diamond plaque appliques alternating with reeded circular links. The reeded surfaces gift the gold a soft, shimmering appearance rather highly reflective. The large spring ring can be used simply as a clasp or to suspend and locket or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 20-1/2” long. Weight: 29.5 gr.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising individual links fashioned as abstract bellflowers, each set with an oval cabochon rhodolite garnet. Each link is further enhanced with appliques to suggest leaves, tendrils and seed pods. The overall design is very much in the Jensen expression of Skonvirke. The rhodolite garnets have lovely purple coloring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: possibly Denmark, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4†wide; 8†long. Weight: 29.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.95 cts.

A wonderful Victorian 18K yellow gold curb link chain interrupted at regular intervals with bi-color ("watermelon") tourmaline beads. The chain is finished with a fantastic clasp in the form of a lady's hand grasping floral-engraved loop. At 39" in length, the necklace can be worn doubled or perhaps even tripled. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 39" long. Weight: 67.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 215.0 carats.

An uncommon pair of large "X" earrings by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. One arm of each earring is worked in platinum and set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1). This design is uncommon in the large size and very difficult to find with diamonds. The earrings retain the original posts and omega clips. The earrings are marked by Tiffany, signed by Picasso and dated 1988.

Origin: America, ca 1988

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 15/16"

Weight: 13.0 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold bracelet designed as floral plaques separated by bezel set blue sapphire cabochons. Each elegantly pierced gold plaque depicts a rose encircled by scrolls and flanked by additional flowers. The backs of the plaques are engraved in a matching motif. The high-domed cabochons have fine deep blue coloring and show no indications of heat treatment. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 7-3/8” long
• Weight: 22.8 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.12 carats

A stunning Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring an enameled and engraved portrait of Pallas Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, horses and olives. Her beautifully engraved helmet is adorned with a small rose cut diamond. Her armor and the embroidery along the edges of her gown are also engraved. The quality of the painted enamel facial details and the background champleve enamel in royal blue is gorgeous. The edges of the medallion are enhanced with natural pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, both stamped with French 18K marks. A folding bail could easily be added to the piece can be worn as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter.
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

A very rare pair of 14K yellow gold, diamond and lapis lazuli cufflinks designed by Erté in the "La Dentelle-State I" pattern. The faces of the cufflinks are shaped as stylized birds, with lapis cabochons for eyes. The exposed gold surfaces are engraved and cast in an intricate pattern of geometric bars and swirls to suggest feathers. Short bands of bead-set single-cut diamonds finish the design.

Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".

• Origin: America, ca. 1980.
• Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
• Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of Brazilian gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The aquamarine’s deep, dusky blue color contrasts beautifully with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Burle Marx’s pieces. The shape of the stone also creates a wonderful linearity that looks beautiful on the finger. The interior of the shank is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jewelry of Hollywood stars Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965.
• Dimensions: crown, 1-1/8” x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 4 (can be enlarged).
• Condition: excellent; no abrasions; no dings.

An elegant Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold negligee pendant necklace, the old mine cut diamond drops formed as pansies. Pendant necklaces of this type, called negligees (from the French word for "careless"), were so called because of their assymetry. The subtle pansy design is achieved by combining three larger diamonds at the top of each cluster to represent larger petals, and two smaller petals at the bottoms. The knife edge bars suspending the clusters keeps the focus on the stones and create wonderful movement. The old mine cut diamonds (J/K color; SI1 clarity) have excellent fire for antique stones. The clasp and the pendant are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: pendant length, 1-5/8"; chain length, 17-3/8"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats.

A very heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet worked in the form of interlaced knots, the center of each set with an old mine cut diamond. The diamonds are set in silver in the traditional manner of the 19th century. The stones have good J/K color and SI1 clarity. At 8-1/4" long the bracelet is very generously sized. The box clasp is marked "Waler 18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Weight: 41.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.