Catalog (2409)

A wonderful French first empire tole ware monteith, the sides hand painted with bouquets of colorful flowers against ivory-colored reserves flanked by gilt grapevine designs. The sides rise to handles cast in the form of swans’ heads--a feature very rarely seen. Verrieres are typically oval in shape, but this example is round. The bowl is unusually raised on four lion’s paw brass feet. As a whole, this is one of the more elegant and interesting early tole verrieres or monteiths we’ve seen.

Elegant glassware was a luxury and even the wealthy didn’t have enough to provide a fresh glass with each different wine course during a formal dinner. The monteith or verriere contained water, and the guests’ glasses could be hung from the notched rim to be rinsed in the communal bath. Sometimes, the vessel was filled with cold water and the glasses were simply hung there to be chilled before the service.

Origin: France, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent original paint with slight loss to one bouquet, the interior shows surface rust as expected; three of the notches seem to have been bent and then straightened out again, but this appears to have happened long ago and without any re-painting. Size: 9-1/4" x 12-5/8" at handles; 4-1/2" high (6-1/4" at handles).

Edwardian 18K gold and platinum cufflinks set with diamonds. The front faces are fashioned as spheres, the top half worked in platinum and the lower half in gold. The top of sphere features a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The back faces are designed as a crossbar set with diamonds, the ends terminating in smaller spheres, each set with a diamond. The appearance is very attractive, with a little sparkle but an overall masculine appeal. The backs are marked with unidentified Continental hallmarks.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: spheres, 3/8" diameter; bars, 3/4" long. Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed as a pair of discs joined by a diamond-shaped reserve. Each of the discs is engraved in a starburst motif, while the reserves feature oval star sapphire cabochons. The sapphires have good translucency and even, grayish-blue coloring. The stars are very distinct, bright and well-centered. The backs are marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4" x 11/16". Weight: 15.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.75 cts.

A stunning cranberry-cut-clear cut glass claret jug with a hammered sterling silver collar and hinged lid with a palmate finial. The Aesthetic-style hammered silver makes are particularly nice counterpoint to the Gothic-inspired design of the cutting which combines tall arches of small diamond cutting divided at the top with elongated triangles of larger diamond cutting. The bottom of the jug is cut with a 36-point star. The applied handle is worked in clear crystal. The silver mounting is fully hallmarked by Martin Hall & Co., with a Birmingham city mark and the date letter for 1904.

Origin: England, 1904. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to glass; no dings or monograms to silver. Size: 10-3/4” tall.

A handsome, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold and onyx cufflinks, each fashioned as two spheres joined by chain-like connectors. The design is a play on positive/negative space. The larger spheres are constructed in gold decorated with concentric rings and inset at the equator with a recessed band of black onyx. The smaller spheres are the opposite—onyx spheres inset with a slightly protruding band of gold at the equator. The gold mountings on the onyx spheres and the middle of each connector are decorated with concentric rings to echo the larger spheres. Altogether, this is an understated, but very sophisticated design. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French hallmarks for 18K gold and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Size: large spheres, 1/2" diameter; small spheres, 11/32” diameter. Weight: 13.7 grams.

A very fine pair of Victorian figural cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold. The front faces are in the shape of ceremonial Scottish halberds. The shafts are set with round and antique cushion cut rubies and the heads are set with rose-cut diamonds. The rubies have nicely saturated color that contrasts well with the glitter of the diamonds. The rubies show no indications of heat treatment and their internal characteristics suggest they are of Burmese origin. The figural faces are joined with chains to baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

The Scottish halberd was a distinctive type of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century. It eventually became a ceremonial object used by the Scottish nobility. Queen Victoria’s fondness for Scotland ensured that all things Scottish became very popular, and traditional emblems such as the halberd sometimes appeared in fashionable jewelry.

Circa 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 1” x 9/16”. Weight: 5.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .38 ct; ruby, .74 ct.

An elegant 5-piece dress set worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum by Carrington. The set, comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, features round mother-of-pearl faces enclosed within engraved platinum borders and centered with small natural pearls. Both the mother-of-pearl and the pearls have very nice luster and color overtones. Each piece is hallmarked by Carrington, one of the leading American manufacturing jewelers at the turn of the 20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Size: cufflink faces, 9/16” diameter; studs, 11/32” diameter.

A fine mid-19th century Mexican tin retablo depicting San Miguel (Michael) the Archangel. He is shown in his usual pose, standing atop a vanquished demon as described in the Biblical Book of Revelation. As weigher of men's souls, he holds the scales of justice in one hand and a flaming sword in the other. He wears armor of blue decorated with golden stars. As a symbol of young soldiers, Miguel is always depicted as a beautiful young man, and the facial features of this Michael are particularly exquisite. The colors in the retablo are very strong. Depictions of Michael are thought to constitute less than 1% of all retablos.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1850. Condition: very good; scattered surface losses, predominantly in the area of the torso, but the face is nearly untouched. Dimensions: 10 x 14 in.

A very nice pair of Victorian double-faced 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with trios of diamonds, rubies and sapphires. The diamonds are old mine cut, while the sapphires and rubies are cabochons. The colored stones are of very good color and show now indications of heat treatment. The gold surfaces are worked with the slightly matte Russian finish popular for higher quality jewelry of the period. Jewelry set with red, white and blue gemstones tended to gain popularity around key anniversaries or important events in American history. It is likely that these cufflinks date to the centennial year of 1876. The back of each face is marked 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 21/32" x 13/32". Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .16 ct; sapphire, .23 ct; ruby, .23 ct.

A beautiful enameled silver patch or pill box by Nicholai Alexeyev. The hinged box is fully covered with enamels worked in shades of opaque white, aqua, periwinkle and royal blue, accented with translucent red and green. The cover and bottom are worked in a stylized starburst pattern, while the sides feature floral banding flanked by traditional triangular and dotted patterns. Exposed areas of silver are stippled and lightly gilt. The interior is also gilt. The interior of the body and lid are marked with the Moscow city mark, the 88 standard, and the maker’s mark for Nicholai Alexeyev. The lid closes securely and can be used as a functional pill box, if desired.

Origin: Moscow, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 2-1/8” diameter; 1” high. Weight: 53.0 grams.

A fine pair of lapis lazuli cufflinks mounted in 18K yellow gold. The front faces are panel-cut lapis spheres and the backs are round lapis tablets set in twisted rope borders. The lapis is fine quality with just a tiny smattering of glittery pyrite. The faces are joined by chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca 1970

Condition: excellent.

Dimensions: front faces, 7/16" diameter

Weight: 8.4 grams

A very unusual pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, one end the traditional ball shape and the other in a geometric “rooftop” shape. Louis Tamis & Sons opened in 1909 and quickly became the leading American maker of gold boxes and other luxury objects. In the 1930s, the company manufactured for Paul Flato. By mid-century, it had become on of New York’s most exclusive manufacturing jewelers, creating commissioned pieces for Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Each cufflink is stamped “14K” and bears Tamis’ hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: “rooftop” faces, 1/2” x 1/2”; ball faces, 3/8” diam.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

The assymetrical setting of colored Tahitian pearls against the strictly geometric triangular shape of the the 18K gold setting gives this modernist pendant a striking look. The pearls include a 8.18 mm aubergine with rose overtones at the upper left, a 9.20 mm silver-gray with rose overtones at left, and a 9.18 mm silver-blue with aqua overtones at the bottom right. All have very good lustre and smooth surfaces. The pendant is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (Ste. P with a pi symbol). We have shown the pendant on chain for display purposes--it would benefit from a heavier chain, perhaps a box link.

• Excellent condition.
• 3/4" x 1 3/8".
• 10.8 grams.

A pair of fine shakudo ornaments originally mounted in Victorian times as a pair of cuff buttons, and then re-imagined by our jeweler as an elegant split-chain pendant necklace. The two plaques feature a court lady and gentleman in Meiji-period costume. After the collapse of the feudal Samurai system in Imperial Japan, Europeans collected old sword and armor fittings such as these to set as jewelry. The mountings and chain are 14K.

• Japan, ca 1890.
• Excellent condition, sharp detail and finish.
• Dimensions: each plaque, 15/16" x 13/32"; total pendant length, 2"; total necklace length, 18-1/2".
• 13.8 grams.

A very fine Edwardian sterling silver powder box with guilloche enamel in translucent ivory. The lid is decorated with a elegantly colorful painted enamel bouquet of wildflowers tied with a blue ribbon and the sides with complementary floral sprigs. The gilt interior is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks and the master silversmith's for Georg Adam Scheid. Scheid was a silversmith to the Imperial Family and was particularly known for beautiful enameled items such as boxes, compacts, parasol handles and miniature clocks. This box would make an elegant spot for jewelry or other small items.

• Origin: Austria, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 4 1/16" diameter; 1 5/8" high.
• Condition: excellent, very minor surface wear visible upon close inspection in strong raking light.

A classic pair of French 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a variation of the “mors de filet” or “snaffle” design. Each of the flip-up ends is pierced in a woven design. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked and has the master goldsmith's mark for Gaetan de Percin.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955

• Condition: excellent, all original

• Dimensions: 9 x 16 mm (5/8 x 3/8 in)

• Weight: 9.9 grams

An extremely attractive pair of cufflinks worked in 18K white gold, the faces featuring plaques of black mother of pearl set with diamonds. Black mother of pearl is much less common than the usual light color and displays a beautiful pearly luster with overtones of green and rose that can be clearly seen in the photos. The diamonds have bright color, estimated at F, and VVS clarity. Solid connectors join the faces to hinged toggles. The connectors are marked “750” for 18K gold, and have an unidentified maker’s mark “LG”.

• Origin: probably Continental Europe, ca. 1980
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter
• Weight: 7.6 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats.

An elegant Victorian snowflake pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with old mine cut diamonds. The overall effect is very delicate with a lot of sparkle. The center diamond is approximate .33 carat and is graded as I/J, I1; the other diamonds, each .10 carat are I/J color and SI1/2 clarity. The pendant has a folding bail and retains the original pinstem which disappears nicely when being worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.53 carats
• Weight: 7.5 grams