Catalog (2449)

A French Retro 18K gold dragonfly brooch, the wings star-set with rubies and sapphires. The dragonfly’s body is worked in a stylized geometric design. The brooch currently has a double fur clip fastener, but would look stunning as a pendant necklace on a split chain (adding a small bail at the tip of each wing is very easy.)

• France, ca. 1935
• Excellent condition
• 1 9/16” wide & 1 3/32” long
• Weight: 6.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .20 carat; ruby, .20 carat

A rare cocktail pick set in the form of a bakelite champagne stopper holding a set of chrome picks. Of the many French Art Deco barware items we’ve handled, this is the first example of this pick set we’ve seen.

• France, circa 1930
• Bakelite is inxcellent condition; light wear to plating on picks
• 4” tall

Gorgeous pendant comprised of a 14 karat yellow gold sunburst, with white gold accents, centered by a .89 carat round brilliant-cut blue sapphire of dark, vividly saturated, very slightly greenish-blue color. The stone exhibits notable green and blue pleochroism is likely Australian in origin. The chain in the photo is not included. The clasp is marked "14K".

• America, circa 1930
• Excellent condition, all original
• 1-5/16" diameter
• 9.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .89 carat

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks set with calibre-cut blue sapphires designed by the Russian émigré jeweler Olga Tritt for sale at her Park Avenue boutique in New York. The arches of the cufflinks are set with rows calibre-cut intensely-colored blue sapphires.

Tritt specialized in antique jewelry, but supplemented her selection with an array of her own luxury designs, mostly made in France to her specifications. Her client roster included many luminaries, including the Duchess of Windsor. These cufflinks are unsigned, but the particular elongated figure-8 style of the hinged connectors was unique to Tritt. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, circa 1935
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16" (20 x 24 mm)
• Weight: 14.9 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.03 carats

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.

A wonderfully detailed 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a spaniel. The shape of the dog’s head and the amount of fur suggests that the pin represents a Springer or English Cocker spaniel. The pin has substantial weight. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, circa 1935.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” x 3/4”.
• Weight: 6.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.

An attractive pair of Retro 14K yellow gold dangle earrings fashioned as circles of gold balls centering round brilliant cut amethysts. The amethysts have rich deep coloring and excellent clarity. The earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted to wires. The new look is much more wearable and provides tons of sparkly movement!

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1 3/8" long from top of wires.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.76 carats.
• Condition: Very good; a couple of small dings on the back sides.

A noble poodle stands encircled in a ring of gold in this Art Deco period French 18K gold charm or pendant. The dog’s stylized design echoes the ribbed and twisted rope motifs along the edges. The pendant retains the original matching jump ring. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” wide; 1 1/8” height (including jump ring).
• Weight: 4.8 grams.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

This lovely enameled pansy, originally a screwback earring, has been converted to a colorful ring with the addition of sterling silver shank. The pansy is enameled in bright shades of purple and yellow. The enamel has a slight iridescent effect and is translucent so the engraved silver shines through for added texture. In the Victorian language of flowers, the pansy generally conveyed the meaning, “Think of me.” Purple and yellow pansies more specifically meant, “Forget me not.” The back is marked “Sterling.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1930.
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 3/4 x 3/4".
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 3.8 grams.

A lovely pair of 10K yellow gold drop earrings decorated with a golden bows centered with round brilliant cut blue zircons. The gems have deep coloring and show nicely in a small size. These Retro earrings were originally screwbacks and have been converted for pierced ears. The earrings have nice movement and could be worn with either casual or cocktail attire. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, circa 1935.
• Excellent condition.
• 9/16" wide; 1-1/4" long from top of wire.
Weight: 3.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Zircon Weight: 1.28 carats.

A striking 14K yellow gold ring, the medallion depicting a yachting scene in engine-turned engraving of extraordinary quality. The scene depicts a yacht in the foreground with a more distant boat in the background. The design is completed with waves, seagulls and a lighthouse atop a rocky cliff. Originally an Edwardian blazer button, our jeweler added a 14K gold shank to make a wonderful seafaring ring. The back is stamped "14K" and has an unidetified American maker's mark.

• America, ca. 1910.
• Excellent condition, sharp detail.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" diameter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/4.
• Weight: 4.3 grams.

An imposing, yet very wearable Retro ring featuring a large, deeply colored honey-gold rectangular step-cut citrine flanked by lines of calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) between lines of bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. The color contrast of the stones is quite striking and the size is imposing without being overdone. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 7/8".
• Finger Size: 7-1/2.
• Weight: 9.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 13.12 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

A classic figural sterling silver thimble jigger by Thomae & Co. The rim is engraved "Only A Thimble Full." The interior retains some of its original gilding. Several companies made variations of this jigger, but those by Thomae are among the best due to their superior weight and workmanship.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms. Size: 2" tall. Weight: 36.3 grams.

A classic figural sterling silver thimble jigger by Thomae & Co. The rim is engraved "Only A Thimble Full." The interior retains a small amount of its original gilding. Several companies made variations of this jigger, but those by Thomae are among the best due to their superior weight and workmanship. Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms. Size: 2" tall. Weight: 41.4 grams.

A vintage sterling silver figural jigger in the shape of a thimble. The rim is engraved "Only A Thimble Full." The interior is gilt. The bottom is hallmarked by the Webster Silver Co. Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, some gilding intact, no dings. Size: 1-5/8" tall. Weight: 18.1 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed A.A., is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is perfect for either a delicate chain or to wear as a charm on a bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The small size is particularly nice for wear as a pendant from a delicate chain. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 9/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .03 carat.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form a wishing well. A water bucket hangs from the winch and six red bakelite-topped cocktail picks are stored in the well itself. The The whole is set on a Macassar ebony base. Sets such as this were used on bar and café counters to serve cocktail garnishes, canapés or even escargot.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Condition: good; typical wear to bakelite spheres; no rust; one metal stem seems to have been cut off just above the bakelite "cherr".
• Dimensions: 5-3/4” tall.

A fine 19K yellow gold folding ball locket with a capacity for four images. The exterior is decorated with a stippled checkerboard pattern with a belt on either side that holds the sphere closed. When the belts are unlatched, the locket opens accordian-style to reveal the inner frames. These lockets have become increasingly difficult to find. The locket is stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for .800 (19.2K) gold.

• Origin: Porto, Portugal, ca. 1938.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" diameter.
• Weight: 16.5 grams.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the unusual form of a large snail accompanied by a pair of baby snails. The snail is usually alone or perhaps with just one smaller one. They are worked in chrome and are set on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who had a side gig designing entertaining barware. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials. Sets such as this were used on bar and café counters to serve cocktail garnishes, canapés, or even escargot.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 6-7/8” x 3-1/8” x 4-1/4”.

An unusual vintage 14K gold equestrian keychain by Tiffany & Co. The chain has a fob on either end, one in the form of a horseshoe and the other in the form of a fully three-dimensions horse head. The head is nicely detailed and sparkles with a pair of bright ruby eyes. The rubies, though small, have very fine bright color. The back of the horseshoe is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Keys are added by holding the chain against one side of the horseshoe and slipping on the key. When the chain is no longer being held next to the horseshoe, the key stays securely between the two fobs.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent; a small pinpoint ding underneat the bottom of the horse's neck.
• Dimensions: overall length, 4-5/8"; horse head, 3/4" x 15/16".
• Weight: 5.1 grams.

A delightful French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of a carved rosewood cat arching his back to hiss at a little chrome snail. A wooden rack holds six chrome cocktail picks, each topped with a snail. All are presented on a macassar ebony base. Sets such as these were used in French homes as well as on the bar counters at cafes.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent, all original, one pick has very minor plating wear visible on close inspection.
• Dimensions: 5-7/8" x 3-1/4" x 4" high.

An unusual French Art Deco cocktail pick set featuring a stylized snail carved from beautifully-grained macassar ebony. The snail has a very unusual streamline aerodynamic appearance and colorful phenolic ornaments on the antennae. The set is completed with an ebony and bakelite "basket" holding chrome cocktail picks with multicolored phenolic heads.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Dimensions: 6" x 2-1/4" x 3-3/4" high.

An elegant French Art Deco silverplate jigger in the form of a champagne bucket. The form is completed by a pair of spherical handles typical of champagne coolers of the era. The bottom is stamped with an illegible maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Dimensions: 1-7/8” diameter; 2” high.
• Condition: excellent; no dings; a 2mm area of plating wear to the interior near the bottom.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of a large snail worked in chrome on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who had a side job designing entertaining barware. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials. Cocktail pick holders ("porte-piques") were once a fixture of every French bar and café. Today, they can be use to spear olives of cherries in a cocktail, or to serve small hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Dimensions: 5 3/8” x 2 7/8” x 4 1/2”.
• Condition: excellent, all original; no chrome loss.

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of Gideon the duck and his snail friend worked in chrome on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who created a comic strip called "The Adventures of Gideon" in 1923. It was immensely popular and Rabier was commissioned to make a range of entertaining barware. Few of Rabier's designs were signed, but this example is signed with his full name. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials. Cocktail pick holders ("porte-piques") were once a fixture of every French bar and café. Today, they can be use to spear olives of cherries in a cocktail, or to serve small hors d'oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930.
• Dimensions: 5 7/16" x 3" x 4 1/2".
• Condition: very good; a small area of wear to chrome in the folds of the tail feathers and another smaller spot on the underside of the tail; normal age-appropriate wear to the wooden base.

A classic silverplated single-serving cocktail shaker by Napier in 1934 specifically to be sold at Saks Fifth Avenue. The shakers were made in two variations, one with a dial on the top indicating the type of cocktail within and this version, with the profile of a rooster on the lid. The shaker has a built-in strainer and pouring spout. When removed, the lid becomes a footed cocktail glass. The bottom of the shaker is stamped "Napier Pat. Pend."

• Origin: America, ca. 1934.
• Dimensions: 6 1/2" tall.
• Condition: very good; light wear to plating as is typical of all Napier silverplated items; a pinpoint and a 1/4" ding to the side of the cap/cup.

A set of six sterling silver coffee spoons by Asprey & Co. Each spoon has a brownish-black bakelite “coffee bean”—a decorative device popular in England during the Art Deco period. Each spoon is fully hallmarked for Asprey, 1931. The spoons are presented in their original silk- and velvet-lined fitted box, the lid of which is imprinted “Asprey/166 Bond St/London”.

• Origin: England, 1931.
• Dimensions: spoons, 3 7/8" long.
• Weight: 43.0 grams.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms; case is like new.

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A nice bracelet comprising twelve Victorian era 14K and 10K gold slides. The slides are in various styles, but are all original to the Victorian period. Slide bracelets enjoyed a moment of popularity in the 1930s when older Victorian pieces were dismantled and converted into a new style of charm bracelets. The first, tenth, eleventh and twelfth slides (L to R in the first photo) are 10K. The others are 14K. The diamonds, opals, turquoise and pearls are natural; the sapphires and rubies are glass. The two opals, in particular, are very nice quality. The slides are strung on a 14K gold double chain with 14K gold spacer beads and a 14K clasp. Tested and guaranteed metal content.

• ORIGIN America, ca 1860-1900
• DIMENSIONS 7 3/4" long
• WEIGHT 16.5 grams
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, .03 carat; opal, .6 carat
• CONDITION excellent, a few light pinpoint dings on the largest slide

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K gold and lapis cufflinks by Gaetan de Percin, the jeweler responsible for most of the classic Hermes jewelry designs in the 1930s and 40s. This design is from that era. The ends of the batons are set with lapis cabochons in the deep violet-blue color sometimes referred to as "Afghan". The connectors are slightly arched to draw the cuffs close together. Aside from Hermes, de Percin created jewelry for Carter, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Chanel, Dior and Boucheron. The connects are stamped with de Percin's hallmark and the guarantee marks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1935
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 13/16" long
• Weight: 13.1 grams.

A pretty pair of 14K yellow gold earrings in a stylized floral design, each centered with a round opal cabochon. The stones have white body color and a “pinfire” pattern of play-of-color. The shape of the gold setting creates an interesting reflecting pattern with the opals. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent, converted from screwbacks
• Dimensions: 1-1/16” long from top of wire; 5/8” wide
• Approximate Total Opal Weight: 1.2 carats
• Weight: 4.9 grams

A classic figural sterling silver thimble jigger, the rim engraved "Only A Thimble Full". The workmanship of this jigger is very good and the engraving is among the nicest we've seen. Marked "Sterling." It was likely made by either Watson or Thomae.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935
• Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms
• Dimensions: 1-29/32" tall
• Weight: 36.7 grams