Catalog (2449)

A stunning Georgian 18K gold textured chain necklace suspending a graduated series of nineteen carved hardstone hearts. The colorful stones include lapis lazuli, moonstone, opal, carnelian, moss agate, porphyry, chrysoprase, banded agate, jasper and more. Stones such as these would have been mined in many different parts of the globe, and wearing a necklace of such "specimens" would have indicated wealth as well as a certain curiosity and intelligence about the world. The heart theme expressed the sentimental side of Georgian jewelry. The chain is entirely handmade and is fastened with the original barrel clasp decorated with beading in the Etruscan manner. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France or England, ca. 1800. Condition: very good, several of the hearts have minor roughnesses to the edges consistent with two centuries of wear. Length: 16-3/4". Weight: 19.0 gr.

Very nice dark blue Staffordshire transferware plate in the “Bear” pattern from the “Quadruped” series by Hall. The plate depicts a river otter catching a salmon in the central reserve, surrounded by shield-shaped reserves depicting (from top going clockwise) a hedgehog and a mole, a pair of rabbits, a seal, and a civet and genet. All of the animals are based on illustrations by Caesar Ibbetson that appeared in John Church’s 1805 “A Cabinet of Quadrupeds.” The back is stamped “I Hall Quadrupeds”.

Origin: England, 1814-32. Condition: very good, a shallow 3/8” glaze nick to the rim at the 2 o’clock position. Dimensions: 8-3/7” diameter.

A lovely Georgian mourning pin worked in 9K yellow gold, the center crystal-covered compartment bordered in faceted jet. Lighter-colored hair is somewhat less common that dark hair, and it contrasts particularly nicely with the black border. The reverse is engraved "Wm Dumelow/ob. 16 Mar/1811 At 42." Tested and guaranteed 9K.

Origin: England, 1811. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 9/16". Weight: 3.3 grams.

A rare gilt bronze watch fob with a carnelian seal with an allegorical figure depicting "Temptation" in the form a hooded monk with hands piously folded across his own chest while standing next to a nude woman. The woman is pressing against him and appears to be whispering into his ear. Virtuous themes presented gentlemen of the era with an opportunity to indulge in a little erotic naughtiness. The figure is enhanced with detailed engraving.

• England or France, circa 1830
• Very good condition; light wear to gilding; no engraving on carnelian; better in person than the photos
• 1-1/2" x 7/8" x 11/16"

A very nice late Georgian carnelian spinner fob mounted in an 18K gold frame in the form of two intertwined snakes. The snakes are hand-chased with detailed scales and interesting, their heads are finished with duck-bill mouths (complete with teeth) grasping apples. This form is often seen in French silver wine tasters and was intended as a reminder of temptation and the snake in the Garden of Eden. The spiral mechanism in the center of the snakes’ entwined bodies is a spring mechanism that allows the carnelian plaque to be locked into place. The fob is generously sized and would make a stunning pendant. Marked with an indistinct Continental hallmark (likely French) and tested 18K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1830.
Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 1-3/4”.
• Weight: 11.3 grams.
• Condition: excellent; carnelian was never engraved; all original.

An extraordinarily fine pair of Georgian hardstone cameo earrings set in 15K yellow gold. The cameos, certainly of Italian origin, and possibly several hundred years older than the earrings themselves, are carved from a grayish-green stone with white and rust banding. The images depict a satyr with exaggerated pointy ears and a leering grin, and a female companion with a floral wreath in her hair. In both, the grayish-green stone forms the background, while the facial features are picked out in white, and the floral headdresses have a faint rust tint. The gold settings have cut-down collets and a gentle ogee-shaped outer frame. The cameos are relatively thin and appear to be backed with black wax or pitch to hold them securely in place. The closures are front-to-back hinges. Georgian-era cameo jewelry is quite difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, ca. 1800.
• Condition: very good; no damage or wear except for a small fracture at the uppermost edge of the background in the female cameo visible under magnification.
• Dimensions: 1/2” x 5/8” long (excluding wires). Weight: 7.1 grams.

A nice Georgian locket in the form of a Maltese cross with a central rock crystal locket compartment. The arms of the cross are made from faceted carnelian plaques mounted in gold around the central compartment. The compartment was intended to hold the woven hair or perhaps a miniature portrait of a loved one. The Cross of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John was created in 1126 based on designs from the Crusades. The eight points of the arms represented truth, faith, repentance, humility, justice, mercy, sincerity and endurance. During the latter Georgian era, romantic notions of history caused the Maltese cross to become a very popular fashion accessory. Tested and guaranteed 12K.

• Origin: England, ca. 1800.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to gold mountings or carnelian; the cross retains its original fluted gold bail; a small (1/32”) flake to one corner of a rock crystal cover.
• Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 1-7/16” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 9.0 grams.

An extraordinary late Georgian 18K gold ring set with a carnelian carved into the leering face of a satyr classically portrayed with a goatee, a snub nose and pointed ears. The carved gemstone was likely already several centuries old when it was set into this ring. The expert carving is only eclipsed by the extraordinary artistry of the goldsmith. The bold shank is entirely covered in flower and foliage appliques expertly worked in rose, green and yellow gold. The carved stone is set in a bezel with matching decoration. The shank is stamped with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Satyrs were companions of the god Dionysus/Bacchus. They had the ears, tails and other very specific parts of horses along with grotesquely comical human faces. They were noted for a great enjoyment of wine, women and general carousing.

The ring was purchased from the family descendants of the French artist Carle Vernet (1758-1836). Vernet was something of a dandy right up to his death at the age of 78, and according to family tradition, the ring belonged to him. Vernet was a leading equestrian painter at Napoleon’s court as was awarded the Legion of Honor by the Emperor for his depictions of great French victories. He was likewise favored by Louis XVIII during the Bourbon Restoration. During the Directory period, he was famed for his humorous watercolor caricatures depictions of the ridiculous fashions worn by Paris’ high society.

• Origin: France, ca. 1810 (carnelian considerably older).
• Finger Size: 6 1/2.
• Dimensions: carnelian crown, 13/16” x 11/16”; shank tapers from 1/2" at the edge of the crown to 3/8” at the back.
• Weight: 10.8 grams.

A delightful Georgian harlequin ring featuring a marquise cut citrine surrounded by a border of alternating green and red stones—emeralds, rubies and paste. The mixing of natural and paste stones was not uncommon for the period. The citrine is foiled to impart a reddish-orange body color from certain angles. The stones are set in a closed-back setting. The shank is simply enhanced with a fleur-de-lis on each side where it joins the crown. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold, and bearing a later French import mark for 18K.

• Origin: probably England, ca. 1810.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 8 1/4.
• Condition: very good; the central stone has a 1-1.5mm flake on one point only visible upon close examination with magnification.
• Weight: 3.8 grams.

A Georgian 15K gold gentleman's ring set with a hematite intaglio with a rare image from Greek/Roman mythology. We see the buff god Apollo in his horse-drawn chariot being led by Eros ("Cupid"), the god of love. This scene depicts the beginning of the tale of the water nymph Daphne.

Best know as god of the sun, Apollo was also the patron god of archers. One day, he mocked Cupid for the small size of the latter's bow and arrows. In revenge, Cupid shot Apollo with a golden-tipped arrow that would make Apollo fall in first with the first female he saw. Cupid shot Daphne with a lead-tipped arrow that would fill her with disdain for the first male she saw. Knowing she was nearby, Cupid taunted Apollo then flew toward Daphne's location with Apollo giving chase. The sun god immediately fell in love with Daphne and gave chase until the water nymph begged her father to save her, which he did by transforming her into a laurel tree. Apollo made the laurel tree his symbol, and as a last act of love for Daphne, used his powers of youth to transform the tree into an evergreen with eternally green leaves.

• Origin: England, ca. 1800
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: intaglio, 1" x 3/4"
• Finger Size: 7-3/4
• Weight:15.6 grams

An elegant pair of long 18K gold earrings enhanced with floral shaded enamel plaques. The gold surfaces are intricately engraved to add a bit of sparkle. The earrings have nice movement when being worn. Each is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1840
• Dimensions: 2-9/16" long from top of earwire
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced earwires
• Weight: 8.3 grams

French Silver Louis XVIII Burgundian Style Wine Taster Tastevin An unusually heavy first standard (950/1000 pure silver) French tastevin decorated in the classic Burgundian style with punchwork grape clusters and a coiled snake handle. The grapevines are also accented with engraved flowers. The bottom has the center pinpoint found in tastevins from this period and is finished simply with a ring or shallow godrons around the edge to help reflect light through the wine. The snake is engraved with scales and has an unusual arrow-shaped tail. The rim is engraved “A. Chantal” for the original owner. The tastevin has the “tête medecin” mark for silver and the silversmith’s mark for Charles-Marie Guidée (Paris).

• Origin: France, 1819-1838
• Condition: very good, a few small flat areas from 200 years of use
• Dimensions: 3-5/8” x 4-3/4” x 1-5/16”
• Weight: 121.2 grams.

A particularly attractive Georgian example of a Halley’s Comet pin worked in 18K yellow gold, accented with black enamel, and featuring a comet head set with a bright green paste stone to represent the comet’s nucleus surrounded by old cut clear paste stones representing the bright coma. The pastes are set in an elegant buttercup setting with a fluted back. The gold setting also has engraved decorative elements representing the comet’s tail.
In 1705, Edmond Halley correctly predicted the comet’s return in 1758. When it returned in 1835 (and in 1910), jewelers were ready with fashionable pins to celebrate the comet’s passage. Most often, these pins are in lower karat gold, instead of 18K as in this example. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1835
• Condition: excellent, flakes on the green paste are visible only under magnification
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” long
• Weight: 4.4 grams

A pretty late Georgian example of a Halley’s Comet pin worked in 14K (perhaps 15K) yellow gold and featuring a light blue paste stone to represent the comet’s nucleus. The paste is set in an elegant buttercup-type setting accented with an engraved gallery. Blue paste is less common than other colors, and makes a very nice presentation. The comet’s tail depicted in the engraved and voluted gold setting.

In 1705, Edmond Halley correctly predicted the comet’s return in 1758. When it returned again in 1835 (and in 1910), jewelers were ready with fashionable pins to celebrate the comet’s passage.

• Origin: England, ca 1835
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” long
• Weight: 2.9 grams

A small fob seal featuring an amethyst tablet set in a fluted closed-back setting surmounted with ornate scrollwork. The amethyst tablet bears the monogram “RB” and a heart-shaped lock and a key. The lock and key are rebus images carrying the message “Key to my heart.” This fob is perfectly sized to wear alone as a pendant or on a heavy chain or bracelet as one of multiple charms. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: England, ca 1830
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/8"
Weight: 7.5 grams

An elegant Georgian 18K gold fob seal worked in a floral pattern and set at the base with an amethyst tablet engraved with an armorial crest. The floral design continues up the shoulders to the loop by which the fob would have been hung from a watch chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1815
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 11/16" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 13.2 grams

A fine example of a French-Flemish croix papillon (butterfly cross) from the northern region of France around Calais. Jewelry scholars believe these were actually made in Belgium (a French region at the time) where they were known as “croix à la Jeannette” (Jeanette crosses). They were popular across the French regions of Picardie and Pas-de-Calais and into Normandie. This example retains all three of its original parts, each worked in gold and silver and set with table cut diamonds. Croix papillon in original condition are somewhat uncommon as they were often separated into multiple components to satisfy inheritance among multiple daughters. The filigree work is very finely done. The upper portion retains its original pair of slides, as these crosses were traditionally worn high from a wide ribbon tied around the neck. At some point, likely in the later 19th century, a pin stem and c-clasp were added for wear as a brooch. Today, the cross can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from a chain using the slides. There is a partial hallmark with the guarantee stamp “D” suggesting the cross was assayed at Liège.

• Origin: France/Belgium, ca. 1790-1820
• Condition: excellent, all parts intact
• Dimensions: 1-15/16” x 3”
• Weight: 13.2 grams

A very good Georgian watch fob seal worked in 15K yellow gold with ornate floral repousse floral decoration. The section connecting the fob frame to the bail is chased in a foliate pattern that matches the floral theme. One side of the flip part is set with a banded agate while the other side features an exquisitely chased and engraved gold plaque depicting a flower basket beneath a clear rock crystal cover. The gold plaque is likely very close to pure gold which would have made it easier to work and accounts for its intense golden yellow color. Tested and guaranteed 15K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1800

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 2-1/8”

Weight: 38.1 grams