Catalog (2409)

Edwardian 14K gold crescent moon pendant necklace set with round sapphires and pearls. The sapphires have a lovely medium blue color with just a hint of violet. The pearls are slightly button-shaped and have very pretty luster. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8" wide; overall necklace length, 18"
• Condition: excellent; converted from a brooch
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .62 carat.

A classic pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks featuring high-domed cabochons of carnelian and aventurine quartz set simply in silver collets. The faces are joined with removable connectors. The color contrast of the gems is rather striking. The faces are marked “830”.

Scandinavia (excluding Denmark), ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2” diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 9.72 cts; aventurine, 12.18 cts.

An attractive pair of Scandinavian .835 silver cufflinks, the oval faces set with amber cabochons with silver ropework borders. The amber is a light orangey-honey color with excellent clarity. The solid connectors are marked only “835” for the silver content and “3” for a pattern number.

Origin: Scandinavian or Baltic region, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 19/32”. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single blue sapphire that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich violet-blue color and internal characteristics of the sapphires to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold, is signed with Schepps’ hallmark and has the design serial number. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 34.0 carats.

A set of three classic 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl shirt studs by Larter. The mother of pearl has particularly nice iridescent coloring. The simple design allows them to be worn with a variety of cufflinks, as well. Each stud is marked 14K and has the Larter hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A pair of truly exceptional Shakudo cufflinks, the faces being a matched pair of mixed-metal plaques representing all the signs of the Chinese and Japanese Zodiac, including tigers, boars, dragons, rats, roosters, rabbits, snakes, oxen, dogs, monkeys, sheep and horses. The detail work is amazing and the design is one of the most complex we've seen. The plaques are mounted on custom-fitted 950 silver backs with toggle mechanisms. The shakudo plaques date to the 19th century Meiji period and the silver fittings are around 1950.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent, original patina, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 5/8". Weight: 12.2 grams.

Terrific enameled sherry bottle/decanter label. The enamel is applied over metal and has polychrome floral decoration. The chain is brass.

Origin: probably English, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2.5" x 1/5".

Sterling silver watch fob by George W. Shiebler. An outstanding example of the "Medallion" or "Curio Medallion" line, this watch fob is comprised of a horizontal log-like bar inscribed with the Greek letters "XAPIE" suspending five discs depicting Greek gods and goddesses. Pictured from left they are Zeus, unknown, Pallas Athena, unknown, and Mercury. The two unknown images are female and probably depict Aphrodite, Hera or Demeter. The surfaces are hand worked and intentionally "distressed" so that the piece appears to truly be an ancient jewel. The handmade chain is original to the fob. The back is stamped with Shiebler's hallmark, the retailer's mark for Bailey, Banks & Biddle, and the pattern number "1043". All Shiebler Medallion pieces are rare, but this is the first complete watch fob we've seen. It could be extended with a few links to be worn as a bracelet.

Origin: America, 1880-90. Condition: all original, light wear from normal use. Size: fob, 1-3/4" x 1-7/16"; overall length, 6-9/16". Weight: 18.5 grams.

A very rare sterling silver chamber stick in a repousse floral pattern by Shiebler. The overall floral decoration depicts buds and full-blown rose blossoms against a background of leaves. Areas between the leaves are finished with a stippled texture. The knop of the candle socket and the bobeche are plain and make a nice contrast to the elaborate decoration. The thumbpiece is accented with a fan-shaped element that is suggestive of Shiebler’s more Aesthetic-style pieces. The bottom of the bobeche is stamped with Shiebler’s hallmark, the pattern number 1174, and the retailer’s mark “J. E. Caldwell & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a small rim ding and a couple of pinpoints on the bobeche. Size: 6” diameter; 3-1/2” tall. Weight: 211.0 grams.

A fine pair of mid-19th century 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks set with banded agate and gold-bearing quartz. The quartz is generously spotted with gold, showing only isolated areas of creamy white quartz, and the agate is nicely patterned with even bands of cream, brown and tan. Shreve & Co. was one of the first fine jewelers in San Francisco, capitalizing on the new wealth generated by the California Gold Rush. By the mid-1880’s, the store advertised its selection of jewelry made with gold bearing quartz, and it became a specialty. Today, gold quartz pieces—especially those marked by Shreve—are difficult to find. Each cufflink is signed “Shreve & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 17/32” x 7/32”.

A beautiful sterling silver vase in the Art Nouveau taste by Shreve & Co. The sinuous trumpet form body is decorated with gorgeous applied silver iris blossoms and buds accented with engraved foliage. The body rises to a ruffled rim that mimics the curvy lines of the floral decoration. The foot is decorated at compass points with iris blossoms, their stems forming the rolled bottom edge. The bottom is hallmarked by Shreve & Co. with the post-1894 mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no dings, no monograms. Size: 12-3/16” tall. Weight: 526.0 grams.

An elegant heavy gold bracelet comprised of linked chains decorated with three-leaf clovers. In Victorian flower symbology, clover leaves, regardless of their number signified good luck, but they also held the meaning “think of me.” Kauffer was the primary jeweler of the Ecole de Nancy, France’s most important group of Art Nouveau artisans. He exhibited at the Louvre during his lifetime. Unlike the more florid Art Nouveau designs by Parisian jewelers, Kauffer’s designs tended to be more linear and graphic. The bracelet’s clasp is stamped with the 18K gold marks used outside Paris until 1919, with Kauffer’s maker’s mark, and also with Kauffer’s signature.

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long.
• Weight: 32.7 grams.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

A very good cut glass vase by Clark in the "Iris" pattern. The lower third and the flared rim are cut with elongated hobstars flanked by mitred triangles of strawberry diamond cutting enhanced with fans; and the neck is cut with panels of printies alternating with notched prisms. The base is cut with a 20-point hobstar and has Clark’s script acid signature. The pattern is either "Iris" or a variant of “American Beauty”. The cutting is very precise and the polish is excellent.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, a small nick to only one tooth at the rim. Size: 10-1/4” tall.

A lovely art glass cabinet vase with cameo decoration in the “Thistle” pattern by Daum. The glass has elegant mottled coloring with dark peach and amber. The rim and foot are enhanced with gilt edging. The bottom of the base is signed in gilt script and bears the cross of Lorraine. This example is finely carved and makes very nice use of the layers of color.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, very minor wear the gilding along the foot and rim. Size: 4-5/8” tall.

A magnificent set of cufflinks the five shirt studs worked in 18K yellow and white gold set with diamonds. The face of each cufflink and stud is formed as a white gold star surrounded by a foliate and beaded yellow gold border. The stars are set with brilliant round-cut diamonds of extremely fine quality, estimated at F color, VSI clarity. The outer gold edges have fine saw-pierced galleries. The backs of the cufflinks have a toggle closure and the studs have double-folding flanges. This set is most unusual in that it includes five shirt studs. The quality of workmanship is at a level of the most exclusive makers. The presence of five studs indicates that the set was probably a custom order, since most formal shirts have only three or four holes for studs. The advantage of the fifth stud, of course, is that if you lose one of the others you have a ready replacement! The yellow gold is intensely yellow—a shade not usually achieved below 20K. Each piece is marked “750” for 18K gold and is signed “DIF”.

Origin: probably European, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 25.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.25 carats.

A superb pair of double-sided Art Deco silver cufflinks by E. Besseire & Cie. The hexagonal faces are decorated with red, green and black blocks of opaque champlevé enamels highlighted with silver shield-shaped and squiggle accents. The faces are connected bychains. The backs of each face are marked with Besseire’s maker’s mark and with assay marks for silver.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage (the green enamel has some porosity visible under magnification that is original to the making). Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 7.9 grams.

Elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Saffo" pattern from the "Greca" line by Versace. The wide gold band is solid in the back, but the front is pierced in a classic Greek key pattern. The pierced area is pavé-set with 59 round brilliant-cut diamonds (G/VVS2). Prior to his death in 1997, Gianni Versace created a limited line of fine jewelry, and this particular design appeared as rings, bracelets and earrings. The back of the band is signed "VERSACE" and the interior is marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks. The ring is accompanied with its original embossed leather presentation box and the original paperboard outer box. The original retail price of this ring was $4,050.

Origin: Italy, 1995. Condition: mint. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Size: 3/8" wide. Weight: 8.0 grams. Total Diamond Weight: .71 carat.

A classic pair of heavy 18K yellow gold earrings by Gucci. The earrings are in a triangular shape with gently rounded corners and are worked in an open basketweave pattern. The design incorporates both matte and polished surfaces to create a greater sense of depth. The earrings retain their original Omega clips, but the posts could easily be removed for wear as earclips. Each earring is marked 18K and is signed “Gucci”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 17.9 grams.

A fine glass cocktail shaker by Hawkes. The glass blank is blown in an optic paneled style and highlighted with gilding at the neck. The body is beautifully enameled with a colorful rooster and the reverse side is engraved with the recipe for a "Bronx" cocktail. The stopper is finished with floral intaglio engraving. The The double-lip form of the shaker is very similar to the shape Hawkes used for oil & vinegar cruets. The base and stopper are signed with Hawkes' acid-etched trefoil mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks; a small moon on the lower edge of the stopper. Size: 11" tall.

A stunning footed cut glass compote in Hawkes’ “Delft Diamond” pattern. While the pattern is not especially ornate, the deep emerald green color of the blank is amazing. The knopped stem has an elongated airtrap bubble that’s difficult to see because the color of the glass is so rich. The plain round foot is acid-stamped with Hawkes’ trefoil signature, which would suggest a relatively early date.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, normal frosting to bottom of base. Size: 8-1/8” diameter; 6-3/4” high.

An exquisite and very fine 18K yellow gold jewel by Henry Dunay, one of the greatest American jewelers of the latter 20th century. The piece comprises a 32" necklace of domed, oval gold links joined by polished arched connectors. The outer surfaces of the links are stippled in a roughly textured finish that contrast nicely with the arched connectors. Two of the links have hidden hinged clasps so that the necklace can be separated into a shorter necklace and a bracelet. Two of the arched connectors are joined together at the midpoint to suspend a detachable pendant inspired by ancient Mayan motifs. The pendant is quite large, but the openwork and geometric approach to the design maintain a sense of lightness. The pendant can also be worn as a brooch. All pieces are signed by Dunay and are marked 18K.

The piece is accompanied by a written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) indicating a total replacement value of $34,000. Mr. Dunay, himself, indicated that he recalled making the piece in 1968 or 1969. At that time he did not systematically document his creations, so the jewel has not appeared in published works. He suggested he would charge $34,000 to recreate the piece today.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: full necklace length, 32" bracelet length, 8-1/2"; shortened necklace length, 23-1/2"; pendant/brooch, 2-11/16" diameter. Weight: 249.09 grams/8.009troy ounces.

A fine pair of American brilliant cut glass candlesticks signed “Libbey.” The stems and candle sockets are cut in Libbey’s “Plain Flute” pattern. The foot is decorated in an unequal radiant star pattern. The stems are spectacular! Each has not one, but four air bubbles that are twisted about each other in a spiral pattern extending the full length of the stem. Each candlestick is marked with Libbey’s acid signature (Libbey with a break in the tail of the “L” and enclosed in a circle) on the socket.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, one stem has a 3/32” fleabite on a flute edge just under the lip of the socket, normal surface wear on underside of feet. Size: 10” tall; 4-7/8” diameter at foot.

Beautiful 14K yellow gold and cultured pearl brooch by Mikimoto. The swirling gold frame is punctuated with very high quality pearls post-set pearls and can be worn either horizontally or vertically. The pearls have superb lustre and Mikimoto's classic ivory color with rose overtones. The sizes range from 5 to 7mm. The back is stamped with Mikimoto's hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 10.0 grams.

An elegant vintage 14K yellow gold and pearl brooch by Mikimoto. The stylized feather design is typical of Mikimoto’s vintage pieces and is particularly suitable for daytime wear. The pearls, ranging in size to 5.5 to 7.2 millimeters, have ivory body color with rose overtones and superb luster. The quality is estimated at A+1. The back of the pin is marked “K14” and bears the Mikimoto oyster shell hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A classic pearl and diamond ring by Mikimoto. A single 8.4 millimeter pearl is set at the center of the ring and is surrounded by small round brilliant-cut diamonds. The pearl is of very fine quality, estimated at AA. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The surface is smooth and lustrous. The diamonds are of equally fine quality. Typically, Mikimoto uses diamonds in the F-G color range with VVS clarity. The shank is stamped with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark and “K18”.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Crown Size: 1/2" X 1/2" X 7/16” high. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .2 carat.

Lovely signed Mikimoto flower-form brooch in 18K yellow gold set with pearls. The flower petals are made up of very fine quality 6-6.5mm pearls, estimated at AA. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. The body color is white with green/rose overtones. The back of the pin is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and the gold content.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: mint. Size: 2-1/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.5 grams.

Elegant 14K yellow gold and pearl brooch in a modern bouquet design. The four pearl "flowers" are set atop golden stems that are tied with a swirling gold ribbon. Each pearl is 5.5 mm and has the wonderful white body color with silvery overtones characteristic if Mikimoto pearls. The nacre is thick and the skins are very smooth. The back is marked with Mikimoto's hallmark and "K14".

Origin: Japan, circa 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-1/8". Weight: 6.0 grams.

Lovely vintage signed Mikimoto brooch in sterling silver set with eight pearls, ranging from 5 to 6mm. The pearls are of very fine quality with white body color and a silvery overtone. The lustre is excellent, as should be expected of Mikimoto. The brooch is designed in a way that permits it to be worn either horizontally or vertically. The back is marked with Mikimoto's hallmark.

Origin: Japan, latter half 20th century. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-15/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 8.0 grams.

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single emerald that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich green color and internal characteristics of the emeralds to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold and is signed with Schepps’ hallmark. The cufflinks are accompanied by their original Schepps packaging. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 37.48 carats.

A colorful pair of 14K yellow gold earrings by popular New York jewelry designer Sonia Bitton, whose collections have been sold at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. The earrings feature round cut amethysts, citrines, peridots, blue zircons, pink tourmalines and garnets, each set in a movable bezel. When being worn, the bezels move freely on their framework, allowing the gems to shimmer. The back are signed “Sonia B” and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, .8 ct; amethyst, .8 ct; zircon, .7 ct; tourmaline, .5 ct; peridot, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.

An attractive 800 silver and Baltic amber ring, the oval cabochon amber in a silver setting reminiscent of Jensen’s designs from the 1930s. The amber is natural has not been quench-crackled. The back of the shank is signed with an unidentified maker’s mark and has Polish hallmarks for 800 silver.

• ORIGIN Poland, ca. 1970
• CONDITION excellent; silver has been lightly cleaned to retain patina
• FINGER SIZE 7-1/4
• DIMENSIONS crown, 1” x 3/4"
• WEIGHT 7.0 grams

A classic 19th century French silver tastevin of traditional form and the bottom inset with a silver jeton the reign of Louis XV. The sides of the tastevin are decorated with the traditional raised “perles,” recessed “cupules,” and elongated “godrons” for assessing the depth of color and concentration of a wine. The jeton, dating to 1773, depicts the profile of the king surrounded by the Latin inscription “Louis XV, Christian King” and is signed by the engraver, Pierre-Simon-Benjamin Duvivier. The reverse bears the coat of arms of the Duchy of Bourgogne and the inscription “Comitia Burgundiae 1773.” Silver jetons were struck by various civic governments (in this case, the Three Estates of Burgundy) and by the Crown itself to honor important people or significant historic occasions. The taster is completed with traditional handle in the form of a pair of stylized snakes grasping an apple in their mouths. The handle is stamped with French silver hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; jeton in nearly mint condition.
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” x 3-1/16” x 11/16".
• Weight: 34.6 grams.

A vintage Austrian silver stopper for a wine bottle or decanter, the finial constructed from a coin known as the “Maria Theresa Thaler”. These coins were first minted during the reign of the Empress Maria Theresa, mother of Marie Antoinette. The front depicts Maria Theresa and the back features the imperial Hapsburg double eagle arms. The abbreviated Latin inscription reflects her full title, “Maria Theresa, by grace of God, Empress of the Romans, Queen of Hungary and Bohemia, Archduchess of Austria, Duchess of Burgundy, Countess of Tyrol” and includes her personal motto, “Justice and Clemency.” When the Empress died in 1780, the date on the coin was fixed in perpetuity. The coin had a very reliable silver content and became one of the most accepted coins for international trade—especially in the Middle East, Africa and parts of Asia. It ceased to be used as legal tender in the Austrian empire in 1857, but continued to be minted for international trading purposes. The coin used for this stopper has characteristics usually associated with early 20th century examples, and the hallmark on the stopper’s collar is that used in Vienna after 1922.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1930.

Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original;

Note that the cork is too wide to fit a wine bottle, but could be shaved down to fit.

Size: 2-1/4” from bottom edge of silver collar to the top of the coin; 1-5/8” wide across the coin.

Weight: 45.0 grams.

A very nice small-size silver plate wine taster in the classical style. The bottom features the typical convex bottom surrounded by concave "godrons" adn "cupules." intended to create high and low spots to better appreciate the color of the wine as light is reflected through it. The open shape also allows the bouquet to develop quickly so the wine can be tested easily. The snake handle is generally seen on tastevins from the region of Bourgogne. The tastevin bears an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 2 1/4" diameter excluding handle.
• Condition: excellent, no dings, sharp detail.

An elegant set of six gilt sterling silver mint julep spoons, the bowls decorated in the form of a pair of overlapping mint leaves. The stems are hollow, so they can be used as sippers, too. The spoons can also be used for iced tea. The gilding is a beautiful, rich shade of gold. The spoons are marked “Tiffany & Co. Sterling”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original, gilding intact. Dimensions: 8-1/2” long. Weight: 74.3 grams.