Catalog (2449)

A beautiful set of six sterling pastry or cake forks designed by Bernard Cuzner for Liberty & Co. in 1923. The handles are elegantly enhanced with blue and green champleve enamel in a sort of peacock feather design. Cuzner was Liberty’s most influential silver designer in the 1920s. This set is fully hallmarked by Liberty and has the date mark for 1928. They are presented in their original silk-lined fitted case.

• Origin: England, 1928
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, very minor wear to the case
• Dimensions: 5-1/8” long
• Weight: 86.3 grams

A very fine pair of double-sided cufflinks by Seaman Schepps. Each of the faces is made from a single blue sapphire that has been tumbled rather than faceted, and then set in a framework of curling gold wirework. The setting is substantial, yet its delicacy allows the rich violet-blue color and internal characteristics of the sapphires to take center stage. Schepps was among the earliest of American jewelry designers to use cabochon and tumbled stones as primary gemstones. Even after 50 years, his colorful designs still seem completely contemporary. Each cufflinks is marked for 18K gold, is signed with Schepps’ hallmark and has the design serial number. These links originally retailed for $5,500.

Origin: America, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces approximately, 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 34.0 carats.

An attractive pair of Scandinavian .835 silver cufflinks, the oval faces set with amber cabochons with silver ropework borders. The amber is a light orangey-honey color with excellent clarity. The solid connectors are marked only “835” for the silver content and “3” for a pattern number.

Origin: Scandinavian or Baltic region, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 19/32”. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco double-sided cufflinks featuring high-domed cabochons of carnelian and aventurine quartz set simply in silver collets. The faces are joined with removable connectors. The color contrast of the gems is rather striking. The faces are marked “830”.

Scandinavia (excluding Denmark), ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2” diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 9.72 cts; aventurine, 12.18 cts.

Edwardian 14K gold crescent moon pendant necklace set with round sapphires and pearls. The sapphires have a lovely medium blue color with just a hint of violet. The pearls are slightly button-shaped and have very pretty luster. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8" wide; overall necklace length, 18"
• Condition: excellent; converted from a brooch
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .62 carat.

A beautifully romantic French Art Nouveau heart-shaped coin purse, bordered in square cut blue sapphires and centered with a heart-shaped sapphire. The sapphires have very slightly violetish-blue sapphires color and eye clean clarity. The frame is engraved in a geometric pattern and the closure is set with cabochon sapphires. The frame's interior is engraved with a pair of serial numbers, indicating the purse was made by one of the more important French joailliers at the turn of the century. The frame retains the original bail that would originally have allowed the purse to be suspended from a bracelet or finger ring at a formal ball or similar society event. The back of the frame is stamped with French hallmarks. We've never before seen a heart-shaped gold mesh purse!

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to mesh.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-11/16".
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 5.03 carats.
• Weight: 18.9 grams.

A stunning pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the double faces set with bright red garnet cabochons. Unlike many garnet cufflinks, the stones have bright coloring without the brownish overtones that are typical of garnets. The backs are stamped 14K and are signed by Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.2 cts.

A beautiful hyacinth bulb vase by the Boston & Sandwich Glass Company, decorated in opaque overlay cut to clear in in a panel and trailing vine design. The top is enhanced with a cobalt blue lip and the bottom is slightly footed and star-cut. The overall form is very elegant. The shape was blown in the company's #123 mold and the cutting is identical to known labeled pieces. Vases of this shape were used to hold a single flowering bulb, usually a hyacinth, but sometimes a daffodil or tulip.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: very good; a 1/4" flake to the white overlay at the edge of one panel. Dimensions: 5-1/4" tall.

Extremely rare relief-molded jug by the Sandford Pottery in Wareham, Dorset. This jug was designed to honor the contributions of volunteers during the Crimean War (1853-56). The sides of the jug are decorated with a procession of a soldier, a sailor, a marine and a Scots Highlander. Under the lip is a representation of a young Queen Victoria. Above the foot is impressed "Our Army & Navy & Brave Volunteers". The coloring is very rich and the majolica glaze very deep and glossy. The design was registered on September 28, 1860. Sandford Pottery was a small firm and only produced three relief-molded jugs. The jug is listed in "Relief-Moulded Jugs: 1820-1900" by R.K. Henrywood.

Origin: England, circa 1860. Condition: excellent, no chips, or cracks. Size: 10-5/8" tall.

An extremely rare pair of 22K yellow gold cufflinks designed by the famous surrealist painter Salvador Dali. Inspired by his hero, Louis XIV, Dali minted a limited number of his own gold coins in 1966. The artist called his gold coin the "Dali d'or" after the "Louis d'or" coins created for the French king. The coins were minted in four sizes and values, and Dali occasionally used them to pay debts he owed to friends.

In 1967, a year after creating the money, Dali collaborated with the luxury jeweler Piaget to create a line of jewelry incorporating the remaining coins. Dali d'or jewels are quite rare, but can be found as watches, pendants, earrings, brooches and cufflinks.

Like the royal coins, Dali's personal coins featured his likeness along with that of his wife, Gala, on the front. Their faces are surrounded by laurel leaves, fleurs-de-lys and eggs, the last element a recurring symbol of rebirth in Dali's works. The same motifs are repeated on the back, but without the faces and in an even more surrealistic design. Each coin is signed and dated by Dali and is incised with its edition number. The coins used for this pair of cufflinks are #1495 and #1499.

The toggle findings are worked in 18K gold and are signed "Piaget".

Origin: Spain and France, 1967. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 35.8 grams.

A pair of Napoleon III green-cased cut crystal perfume or cologne bottles by Cristalleries de Saint Louis. The bottle sides are cut in a panel design that is repeated in the tulip-stoppers with knopped stems. The undersides are finished in a diamond-cut pattern. The green is a brilliant dark emerald shade. The bottles are priced as a pair, but are available individually, if desired.

• France, 1850-70.
• Excellent condition; original stoppers; no chips or cracks.
• 6 1/2" tall.

A lovely Art Nouveau etched and enameled cameo glass perfume bottle by Cristalleries Saint-Louis. The design features a design of enameled thistles against a frosted-ice background. The enameling is done in multiple shades of yellowish-green, mauve and violet. The rim is highlighted with a simple band of gilding echoed by the gilt star at the top of the lapidary stopper. The bottom has a large polished pontil. This style is typical of the naturalistic motifs used by Saint-Louis around 1900.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks. Dimensions: 8-1/2" tall.

Anne Odom's 1996 "Russian Enamels: Kievan Rus to Faberge" is a landmark publication filled with extraordinary examples of traditional Russian enameled silver and gold objects. All the objects, drawn from the Walters Art Gallery, the Hillwood Museum and a private collection, are beautifully illustrated and described in great detail. This is the 1st edition paperback version published in conjunction with the 1996 exhibit at the Walters. Excellent, unread condition. 208 pages.

A very fine 14K rose gold brooch mounted with a Scottish Terrier carved from banded agate. The dog's head is beautifully rendered, using the stone's natural banded coloring to represent the dark colored muzzle and ears that contrast with the brighter carnelian of the fur. The eyes are represented by small round cut demantoid garnets set in a manner that nearly completely hides the gold collets holding the stones. The workmanship of the carving is first-rate. The setting is rather simple an does not detract from the beauty of the hardstone carving.

Faberge was a leading creator of hardstone carvings, and used carvings created in his own workshops as the shops of others. In Paris, Cartier was determined to compete with Faberge and also produced hardstone carvings. The Cartier versions, however, tended to be a little less realistic and rarely relied on the natural color variations of the stone material. The coloring technique strongly suggests that this carving is the product of a Russian workshop contemporary with Faberge, and possibly that of the master himself.

There appears to be a rubbed-out hallmark on the back side. This is occasionally seen in Russian pieces that had their marks obliterated shortly after the Revolution as their owners tried to smuggle jewels out of the country. Tested and guaranteed to be 56 zlotniks (slightly purer than 14K).

Origin: Russia, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-1/16". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Demantoid Weight: .1 ct.

A fabulous 14K yellow gold and platinum brooch by William Ruser commissioned to celebrate the astounding victory of the Pittsburgh Pirates over the New York Yankees in the 1960 World Series. The brooch is designed as one of Ruser's classic waif-like children, this time dressed in a pirate's costume. One eye is set with a blue sapphire and the other is covered with a platinum eyepatch highlighted with matte black enamel. A platinum earring dangles from one ear. In one hand he holds a baseball bat and in the other a World Series crown set with sapphires and a ruby. The pirate appears to be walking across a bouquet of flowers made of natural freshwater pearls. Each flower is centered with a prong-set brilliant round-cut diamond. Small gold flowers centered blue sapphires complete the bouquet. The back is engraved "Pittsburgh Pirates World Champions 1960". It is also signed by Ruser and marked appropriately for 14K gold and platinum.

Ruser was famed for his jewels featuring dogs, cherubs and children. He was favored by major Hollywood stars such as Joan Crawford and Loretta Young. He also accepted unusual commission opportunities that allowed for creative use of his favorite design elements. This is one of the wittiest examples of Ruser's work we've seen. He used only the finest raw materials and the design is masterful. Along with a tie bar he designed for one of the stars of the Indy 500, this brooch is probably the finest example of Ruser's sports-related commissions.

Origin: America, 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" x 2". Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; sapphire, .43 carat; diamond, .15 carat.

An elegant love knot pendant in 18K gold and platinum set with rose cut diamonds and a ruby at the center. The gold surface has a matte finish typical of French jewelry at the end of the 19th century. The pendant was originally a scarf clip and still retains the clip mechanism. A double bail allows it to be worn as a pendant. The bail's surface finish matches the rest of the knot, and the maker's marks are applied to the bail rather than to the body of the clip, suggesting that the double bail is original to the piece. NOTE: The chain is shown only for display purposes.

• France, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; original finish; no dings.
• 11/16" diameter (excluding bail).
• 2.8 grams.

Art Nouveau 14K gold crescent pendant necklace set with round brilliant cut diamonds and rubies. The quality of the gemstones is superb, with VVS2/G diamonds and vivid very slightly purplish-red rubies that show no indications of heat treatment. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoons. This cresent was originally a brooch and has been converted into a split-chain pendant necklace. The symbology and striking color is perfect for today's strong woman! Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/16" wide; overall necklace length, 19".
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 3.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .35 carat; diamond, .22 carat.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and amber earrings, the square cabochon amber simply set in the gold frame. The prongs holding the amber become an important part of the overall design. The amber has fine, even coloring with a tinge of red, and superb clarity. The backs are stamped for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Laboratorio Ruber, Milan.

Origin: Italy, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1-5/32” long to top of wire. Weight: 15.4 gr.

Pretty porcelain vase handpainted in soft shades of blue and green over a gently shaded blue background. The porcelain is of the finest quality and the glaze is impeccable. The bottom is marked with the green stamp with the date mark for 1961. The bottom also has the artist’s lowercase initials “SY” and the pattern number “2679/295”.

Origin: Denmark, 1961. Condition: mint. Size: 7-1/2” tall.

Terrific figural porcelain creamer in the form of a lobster. This example has very nice painted details--note how the paint fades from red to pink to white at the edges of the claws. The bottom is stamped with the blue mark.

Origin: Germany, circa 1919. Condition: excellent, only a few tiny paint scrapes; no chips or cracks. Size: 4" high, 5" across.

Lovely necklace and bracelet comprised of 10mm rose quartz and aventurine beads. The strands are hand knotted between each bead. The clasps are gilt sterling silver. The necklace is 26" long; the bracelet is 8" long. Excellent condition.

Oil on masonite painting "Autumn in the Rockies" by Arthur J. Hammond (sgnd l.r.). This work uses bright autumnal colors muted with browns and greys. The broad, heavy strokes give the work a post-Impressionist look. The painting was acquired along with two others, both dated 1924, hence the dating of this work.

The back is marked in pencil in the artist's hand, "Autumn in the Rockies/Arthur J. Hammond/Rockport, Massachusetts." A later label in another hand reads, "Arthur J. Hammond/Am. b. Vernon Conn. 1875/1934 Rockport, Mass./Mallett's Index/Am. Art Annual 1933."

Listed in

AskART.com's "The Artists Bluebook: 23,000 North American Artists", 2000

P.H. Falk's "Who Was Who In American Art: 1564-1975", 1999, p. 7433

the National Academy of Design's "Annual Exhibition Record: 1901-1950", 1990, p. 622

Falk's "Dictionary of Signatures & Mongrams", 1988, p. 556

G.B. Opitz' "Mantle Fielding's Dictionary of American Painters, Sculptors, et. al.", 1986, p. 1081

Falk's "Who Was Who in American Art: Artists Active 1898-1947", 1985, p. 707

Opitz' "Dictionary of American Artists", 1982, p. 372

P. & H. Samuels' "Encyclopedia Artists American West", 1976, p. 549

D.T. Mallett's "Index of Artists", 1948, p. 811.

Board size 12"x16". Condition: blacklight examination reveals no inpainting or other repairs; the frame is contemporary to the painting and shows appropriate wear.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

A fine 14K yellow gold griffin stickpin by Riker. The eye is set with a bright faceted ruby and the claw grasps an old European cut diamond. As with all Riker pieces, the gemstones are of excellent quality. This stick pin could be worn as is, or converted to a ring or necklace charm. The reverse is stamped with Riker's hallmark.

• America, circa 1880
• Head, 5/8" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2"
• 1.8 grams
• Approximate diamond weight: .05 carat

A beautiful pair of handmade cufflinks by one of Italy’s most luxurious men’s jewelry, Riccardo Zannetti. Oval cabochons of pink tourmaline, green tourmaline and aquamarine are simply fitted into bezel settings. The faces are hinged for ease of wear. Zannetti makes everything by hand and in very small quantities. Each cufflink bears appropriate Italian hallmarks and has the engraved “Zannetti” signature. This particular design is no longer available, but similar designs from his “Gems” collection currently retail for $2400.

Origin: Italy, ca. 2010. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 7/16”. Weight: 12.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 5.28 cts; aquamarine, 1.54 cts.

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight: 53.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 24.3 cts.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. set with square cut sapphires. The cufflinks are fashioned in a sort of modified belt buckle motif. The sapphires have very good uniform color and show no indication of heat treatment. The backs are stamped Tiffany & Co. and also have the manufacturing jeweler’s mark for Larter.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 13.2 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.0 carat

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

Very nice 14 karat yellow and rose gold brooch in the Retro Modern style, set with a single deeply lustrous 4.5mm pearl. The circle is rose gold, and the leaves are a slightly green-tinted yellow gold. The interplay of gold colors is a signature of period Retro Modern jewelry. The back is marked by the jeweller, A. J. Hedges & Co.

Origin: Newark, NJ, circa 1935. Condition: virutally mint, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8".

An 18K yellow gold and platinum brickwork strap and buckle ring by J. E. Caldwell. The buckle and the tongue of the strap are worked in platinum and set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and VS clarity. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 2 to 8. This style of ring was popular in the Retro period, but only Caldwell, Tiffany and few other luxury makers crafted them with adjustable mechanisms such as this. Stamped with Caldwell’s mark and appropriate serial numbers.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 11/32” wide. Finger Size: 2 to 8. Weight: 8.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .38 cts.

A French Retro 18K gold dragonfly brooch, the wings star-set with rubies and sapphires. The dragonfly’s body is worked in a stylized geometric design. The brooch currently has a double fur clip fastener, but would look stunning as a pendant necklace on a split chain (adding a small bail at the tip of each wing is very easy.)

• France, ca. 1935
• Excellent condition
• 1 9/16” wide & 1 3/32” long
• Weight: 6.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .20 carat; ruby, .20 carat

Elegant Retro 18K yellow and white gold brooch in the form of a phoenix--the mythological bird that arises from the ashes. The wings are beautifully formed from ribbons of gold that give the effect of trailing plumage. The body and crested head are fashioned from white gold and are pavé-set with 55 rose-cut diamonds. The white gold not only highlights the diamonds, but also provides a nice contrast with the yellow gold feathers. The eye represented by a brilliant-cut ruby. The brooch has nice depth and flow to the design. The back is stamped with French "tête d'aigle" 18K gold hallmarks, and with an unidentified maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-7/8" x 1-7/8". Weight: 21.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.1 carats; ruby, .05 carat.

An imposing, yet very wearable Retro ring featuring a large, deeply colored honey-gold rectangular step-cut citrine flanked by lines of calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) between lines of bead-set old European and single-cut diamonds. The color contrast of the stones is quite striking and the size is imposing without being overdone. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1935.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: crown, 5/8" x 7/8".
• Finger Size: 7-1/2.
• Weight: 9.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 13.12 carats; diamond, .25 carat.

A very nice pair of Retro 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) popularized by Cartier. During the war years, even the most exclusive European jewelers frequently used synthetic rubies and sapphires because natural material simply wasn’t available. The square cut stones are channel set along the sides of the cufflinks, and a single stone is collet-set at either end of the closing mechanism. When being worn, the band of rubies goes fully around the outsides of the shirt cuff. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.52 cts.

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

A vintage 18K yellow gold heart-shaped pendant/charm, the border set with alternating cushion cut Burmese rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Like most Retro pieces, the large size has great presence. The rubies have fine, bright red color and VS clarity, and display all the characteristics of Burmese rubies. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality, graded as I color, SI clarity. The bail is marked “750” for 18K gold. The pendant is ideal for monogramming, but there is no evidence of any previous engraving.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Ca. 1940.
• Condition: excellent, all original.
• Dimensions: 1” x 1-1/8” (excluding bail).
• Weight: 6.1 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .6 carat; diamond, .4 carat.

A superb pair of 18K gold earrings from the Retro period. Each earring is shaped as a pair of golden flowers, the centers collet-set with old European-cut diamonds. They are also designed so that they could be worn as dress clips on either side of the neckline. The flower stems are gathered with double ribbons set with square-cut rubies. The diamonds have very nice color, probably in the G-H range, and good clarity estimated at SI2. The rubies have intense color that contrasts beautifully with the gold. The backs retain the original earclips with small hollowed out areas that can accommodate a small piece of cork, rubber or wax to cushion the clip. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .4 carat; ruby, .22 carat.

Superb Retro 18K yellow gold and platinum duette brooch set wtih diamonds and rubies. The design is an exciting overlap of scrolled gold ribbons, the ends accented with platinum and pave-set with round-cut diamonds. The center of the brooch is set with a cluster of prong-set round-cut rubies. The back of the brooch features a mechanism that allows the piece two be disassembled into two separate smaller pins. This "duette" mechanism was used only on the finest pieces during the Retro period. Often, the pair of smaller pins would be worn on either lapel, or sometimes just one pin would be used when a more delicate look was needed. The quality of workmanship is excellent. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 37.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.2 carats; ruby, 1.5 carats.

A classic Retro buckle ring worked in 18K yellow gold buckle ring with a platinum loop set with single-cut diamonds and the end tip set with caliber-cut rubies. Unlike in many Retro pieces, the rubies are natural. The ring has four holes that allow it to be adjusted from size 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.

Circa 1935.
• Dimensions: belt, 3/8” wide; platinum loop, 19/32” wide.
• Finger Size: adjustable from 5 1/2 to 9 1/2.
• Weight: 8.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .25 carat; diamond, .12 carat.
• Condition: excellent; fully functional; closes securely.

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

A stunning Retro 18K yellow gold strap bracelet of flat hexagonal links in the Van Cleef & Arpels style. The bracelet is engraved at regular intervals with highly-detailed honeybees, their bodies represented by elongated cabochons of hessonite garnet. The use of hessonite garnet instead of the more common similarly-colored gemstones such as citrine is an inspired choice. The interior of hessonite has a wavy, “heatwave” appearance that gives the stone visible texture. It is this texture that so successfully mimics the striations on the body of a honeyee. The engraved legs and wings are beautifully executed. Van Cleef & Arpels created the strap bracelet of interlocking hexagonal plates (the “Ludo Hexagone”) in 1935 and it quickly became a favorite motif of luxury jewelers worldwide. They are occasionally set with gemstones, but this exampled with engraved bees is a first! The clasp is marked with illegible hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 23/32 in. wide; 7-1/2 in. length. Weight: 61.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.3 cts.

A substantial Retro 18K rose gold bow pin set with diamonds and natural rubies. The center knot features an old mine cut diamond flanked by small rose-cut diamonds set in white gold that extend out across the loops of the bow. Two rows of natural rubies accent the design. The rubies have fine red coloring without the hint of purple often seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940.
• Dimensions: 2 3/8" x 1 1/2".
• Weight: 17.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .30 carat; ruby, 1.09 carats.
• Condition: excellent, all original.

A lovely stylized flower basket pendant featuring flowers set with diamond, emerald and sapphire centers. The surrounding foliage is worked in a mix of glossy and stippled finishes to add depth and detail. The gemstones are of very good quality, with vivid color saturation and good clarity. The back of the pendant has a fixed bail and a pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. It is stamped with French marks for 18K gold.

Ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-7/16". Weight: 8.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .02 ct; emerald, .07 ct; sapphire, .10 ct.

NOTE: The listed price includes the 16" 14K gold chain shown in the photos, but we offer the option to purchase the piece without the chain.

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

An elegant pair of Retro 18K yellow gold earrings shaped as bows. Each of the dangling ribbons suspends an old European cut diamond. The diamonds are graded J color and I1 clarity. These earrings would look just as good with jeans as they would a cocktail dress. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" x 9/16"
• Weight: 7.0 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat

A striking Retro floral pendant worked in 18K yellow and rose gold and platinum, set with diamonds, amethysts and synthetic rubies. The pendant is designed as a large flower blossom with diamond encrusted petals surrounded ruby stamens. A spike of purple flowers is suggested by the oval brilliant cut amethysts to one side. The gemstones are of good quality with strongly saturated coloring and good clarity. The rubies are synthetic as is expected of pieces from the Retro period. The use of platinum suggests that the pendant falls toward the beginning of the Retro period, in the late 1930s. The pendant was originally a brooch. The pin has been removed and a 14K gold bail added. The clasp is hinged, so that the pendant can be worn from a thick gold chain or a strand of pearls. Marked 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1938
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions (excluding bail): 1-5/8 x 1-15/16 in (41 x 50 mm)
• Weight: 14.0 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .83 carat ruby, .60 carat; amethyst, 2.40 carats

A superb 6.42 carat natural star ruby set into a late Retro 18K yellow and white gold mounting. The ruby is color-graded as medium-dark, moderately strong purple-red (R/P 6/4). The ruby has fine clarity, without eye-visible inclusions. The cut has excellent symmetry and a high dome, resulting in a well-centered bright star with straight, evenly spaced, long rays. The ruby is set in a very attractive 18K yellow gold setting with geometric white gold accents. The interior of the shank is stamped "18K 750".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 11. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at crown, tapering to 3/8" at back of shank. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.42 carats (by measurement).

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring in the Retro Moderne style set with an emerald cut synthetic pink sapphire enclosed at either end with a pair of square cut synthetic rubies and a natural round brilliant cut diamond. The stones are set in an ornate scrolling mount. The colorful design, with its strong contrasts, makes for a very attractive, fun ring. Synthetic rubies and sapphires were frequently used during the Retro period, even by the most exclusive jewelers, because many stones were unavailable to World War II. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent; the ring has been sized up. Dimensions: crown, 20mm x 10mm; back of shank, 5mm. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.2 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 ct; synthetic ruby, .66 ct; synthetic pink sapphire, 6.18 cts.

A very pretty pierced wedding band depicting rose gold Tudor roses alternating with yellow gold clusters of cherries. Each rose is centered with a synthetic ruby. Rubies from the Retro period are almost always synthetics because the mining of natural rubies was not possible during World War II. The design is very crisp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/32" wide
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .28 carat

A nice, heavy pair of 14K gold cufflinks, the faces constructed as ornately interlocking square knots worked in both yellow and rose gold. The baton backs repeat the color theme. The cufflinks are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.6 gr.

A terrific pair of Retro 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces set with large round cabochons of amethyst. The stones have very good, deep purple coloring. The faces are joined by hinged connectors to rectangular backs enhanced with stippling and rose gold banding. The connectors are marked “585” for 14K. The style of connector suggests that the cufflinks are Scandinavian in origin.

Ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 3/4” diameter. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.7 carats.

A 14K gold and natural ruby Retro figural brooch worked in fashioned as a stem of cherries. The fruit are fully three-dimensional and set with round unheated natural rubies. The design is finished with a gnarly branch and a pair of gold leaves. The rubies have fine clarity and intense color, without the pinkish cast frequently seen in rubies in Retro pieces. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-3/16” x 1-7/8”
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 4.2 carats
• Weight: 28.0 grams

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a classic barbell design. The larger front faces are star-set with small natural rubies. The stones have intense color that shows nicely against the gold. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/16" long; larger faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 9.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .25 ct.

A Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising hinged links set with amethysts alternating with diamond-set links. The oval mixed-cut amethysts have medium-dark, vivid reddish-purple color and are well-matched. The small old European and brilliant cut round diamonds add a restrained bit of sparkle. The amethysts are set in a way that makes them appear the float in the larger gold links, creating a sense of lightness in the bracelet. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long, 3/8” wide. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; amethyst, 14.0 cts.

An elegant 14K rose and yellow gold bow brooch featuring a “knot” invisibly-set calibre-cut green tourmalines. The brooch is also accented with a pair of pearls set in white gold. The tourmalines have very fine bright coloring. The golden bow is worked in both a polished surface and a micro-beaded finish. The latter is a technically difficult texture to achieve and shows the hand of a master jeweler. The back of the pin is marked “RMU” and “585” for 14K gold. The back retains the original trombone clasp.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.